Realistic Tow Rating +/- 2600 lbs - Page 2 - 2017+ Chrysler Pacifica Minivan Forums
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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 04:51 PM
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This would be more like within the 3000 lb. limit. It a Forest-River-Flagstaff-E-Pro-E14FK.
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 06:16 PM
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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 07:21 PM
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This would be more like within the 3000 lb. limit. It a Forest-River-Flagstaff-E-Pro-E14FK.
Both are probably within the limit, one might be predominantly steel and the other aluminum.

The one I posted is 3000lbs. Aluminum is more expensive though.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 08:37 AM
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A 3000lb pop-up camper would be a very beefy pop-up. They tend to be more like 1500-2000lb.


A 3000lb camper would be more like this, which I probably wouldn't tow with a minivan in the first place. That's a death trap. You're towing half the minivan's mass behind it.
Towing half the minivan's mass behind it does not make it a death trap. Numerous vehicles safely tow more than their weight. Towing safely is more about not exceeding the weight limits specified by the manufacturer, a properly balanced load and the proper brakes on both the tow vehicle and trailer. Of course, proper driving technique is important too.
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 10:12 AM
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I tow an 8000-lb fifth wheel with a 5000-lb F-150. Properly set up, a 3000-lb trailer would be well within the capabilities of a Pacifica.
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post #16 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 02:22 AM
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Realistic Aftermarket Rating?

I own a Touring L without the factory tow package. I added an aftermarket CURT Class 3 hitch.

As has been mentioned, this means I don't have the anti-sway software, the 220a alternator, nor larger radiator.

That being said, I strongly suspect the realistic tow capacity of my aftermarket hitch is much closer to OEM than Chrysler is saying. Let's look at the differences individually:

1) The software, while undoubtedly helpful, doesn't increase or decrease any towing capability, other than ensuring the vehicle is more stable during unstable movements.
2) Likewise, the alternator doesn't affect anything about the load. It would help keep the battery topped off during times of constant engine cooling fan use and 7pin electric braking (in addition to the standard vehicle energy use). But again, nothing affecting towing capability. As an FYI, the standard one is 180a, the heavy duty is 220a. So if you're not driving with your high-beams, maxing out the interior 110v inverter, and bouncing with the 20 speaker system on max, I don't see any risk here.
3) The larger radiator. This certainly can make a difference. But here's my argument: It's only .3 quarts larger (13.4 vs 13.1q) as far as coolant capacity goes. Further, it's not a transmission cooler. It's just to keep the engine temperature down. Therefore, if you're not towing 85mph on steep grades in 110 degree weather, I'm not seeing this as a risk either.

I'm going to be towing a load approaching 3000lb in a few weeks, but it'll be in temperatures of 30-60 Fahrenheit. Besides being without anti-sway, I'm not anticipating any issues that I wouldn't already be expecting if I had the actual tow package.

Thoughts?
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post #17 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 08:37 AM
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Cooling shouldn't be a problem at those ambient temperatures. What are you towing?

I've towed a 3000-lb utility trailer on many occasions with my 2008 DGC without factory tow package. Load the trailer properly and keep the speed down.

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post #18 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 08:57 AM
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I think breezy hit it correctly. Load the trailer correctly and take your time driving and the towing will be a non issue.
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post #19 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 08:57 AM
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I own a Touring L without the factory tow package. I added an aftermarket CURT Class 3 hitch.

Let's look at the differences individually:

1) The software, while undoubtedly helpful, doesn't increase or decrease any towing capability, other than ensuring the vehicle is more stable during unstable movements.
2) Likewise, the alternator doesn't affect anything about the load. It would help keep the battery topped off during times of constant engine cooling fan use and 7pin electric braking (in addition to the standard vehicle energy use). But again, nothing affecting towing capability. As an FYI, the standard one is 180a, the heavy duty is 220a. So if you're not driving with your high-beams, maxing out the interior 110v inverter, and bouncing with the 20 speaker system on max, I don't see any risk here.
3) The larger radiator. This certainly can make a difference. But here's my argument: It's only .3 quarts larger (13.4 vs 13.1q) as far as coolant capacity goes. Further, it's not a transmission cooler. It's just to keep the engine temperature down. Therefore, if you're not towing 85mph on steep grades in 110 degree weather, I'm not seeing this as a risk either.

I'm going to be towing a load approaching 3000lb in a few weeks, but it'll be in temperatures of 30-60 Fahrenheit. Besides being without anti-sway, I'm not anticipating any issues that I wouldn't already be expecting if I had the actual tow package.

Thoughts?
I agree that the 1500 pound tow rating without factory hitch is likely under rated for a variety of common driving conditions. But it is the manufacturer's stated limit so exceeding this limit can affect future transmission/engine related warranty claims.
These are just thoughts:
1) Consider that without the stability software update the "base" software may not react properly to the added load, both tow weight and tongue weight. This could result in unexpected things happening.
2) The increased alternator output is more likely to support charging of a battery on the trailer, if equipped, and external running lights. Agree, nothing for towing capacity.
3) Some vehicles have the transmission cooler integrated into the radiator. The small increase in coolant capacity could still mean a more significant increase in the integrated oil cooler size.

I suggest installing a transmission oil temp gauge. Then you will know if temps are getting too high. I'd be interested to hear what you get for fuel mileage towing the trailer.

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Last edited by shawnee; 10-16-2017 at 09:03 AM.
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post #20 of 43 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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The Pacifica already shows you transmission temp. It is one of the options in list of menu 2 of the center gauge cluster info screen. Since the transmission (gearing) & engine (HP & TQ) are the same in all Pacificas, Shawnee should be fine from that standpoint. However, be aware one assumes warranty, insurance & liability risks when towing over your vehicle's rating.

I've done a fair amount of towing in my Pacifica with a factory tow package, near weight limits, in mountains & flats. Because you can't manually hold a gear in the Pacifica, there is a lot more shifting under load than I want to see in my tow vehicles. This is the main reason why the Pacifica is not a great vehicle to tow with in my opinion. I try to minimize shifting by feathering the throttle to speed up going down hills & slowing down going up to prevent "excessive" shifts. Annoys drivers behind me but in my mind limits wear & tear. As a vehicle with inherent utility capabilities, the lack of software for driver selected gears is an oversight by Chrysler. I read somewhere that the Pacifica tow package take rate is <10%, so maybe I'm an outlier as far as wanting to tow camping & utility trailers with my minivan and expecting a gear selection/holding capability to help me protect my transmission & brakes.
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Last edited by Nails1; 10-16-2017 at 10:08 AM.
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