Battery reconditioning - Page 2 - 2017+ Chrysler Pacifica Minivan Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 11:36 AM
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Use the remote start function from your keyfob and/or turn the heat on and set the temperature high (like 80 degrees).
Off topic a bit but what does an EV owner do when coming out of work to see lots of ice on the car and a fairly long commute home in the winter. They have no way to defrost other than battery energy to even get started. Seeing the weather here this week in Chicago makes an EV seem like a potentially bad idea in severe weather situations.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 09:37 PM
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And the worst is yet to come. Not being a hybrid owner, how do you come out of work wnd clear a hybrid with a half inch of ice and the temperature is well below freezing. There cannot be enough juice in the battery to do that. Can you force the engine to run to make the heat needed to clear the ice and snow?
It's too easy as our PacHy barely uses the electric motors when it's this cold. Basically, they may supplement the ICE while accelerating, but that's about it.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Off topic a bit but what does an EV owner do when coming out of work to see lots of ice on the car and a fairly long commute home in the winter. They have no way to defrost other than battery energy to even get started. Seeing the weather here this week in Chicago makes an EV seem like a potentially bad idea in severe weather situations.
I guess the same advice would hold true for EV owners: in severe weather make sure you have extra energy reserve. For gas vehicles, we make sure we have extra gas in the tank so we won’t run out defrosting the windows for maybe 20 minutes with the engine running. For an electric only vehicle, you’d want to have enough charge on the batteries to do that and still enough to get home after defrosting.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 11:50 PM
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I have tried to search out info on “battery conditioning” and FCA is vague on the subject. All I can find is p 18 in the manual (very little help). We are sitting in -9 degree temps. Windchill -30 F and when my wife is at work she has no way to plug the vehicle in to condition the battery. Depending on her schedule it may sit outside for up to 12 hours.

Her commute is only a mile and a half from home (which is why we opted for the PHEV - hoping to mostly run on electric the majority of the time) so the car doesn’t have ample time to heat up to condition the battery (she does usually remote start 5 or so minutes before she gets into the car) we haven’t had any issues starting/operating the vehicle even though we have gone days between the “conditioning the battery-plug in” message came up and actually plugging it in.

I can’t imagine FCA would design a van that would potentially leave families stranded in sub zero temps.

Has anyone had any issues with the engine not cranking over, in these extremely temps? Is there a higher likelihood of it not cranking over (in extreme temps) when the main battery is spent and we cannot get on a charger to condition the battery??

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 06:30 PM
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You can bet there's plenty of reserve power in the big battery, and you won't get stranded. Without it, the car could not operate in hybrid mode, as the small motor controls the sun gear in the planetary gear system, using the big battery. The small motor/sun gear is what starts the engine, using the big battery. The small motor/sun gear is what gives you an infinitely variable ratio transmission, using the big battery. Without plenty of power left in the battery, even when it says less than 1%, neither of these features would function and the car would not be driveable as a hybrid on long trips.

Big battery conditioning, and the message, only happens when the car is plugged in. If you leave it plugged in over night, and it's not charging, it will periodically wake up to condition the battery, depending on the ambient temperature. You can start the car if you get the message. The system will heat/cool the big battery as necessary. What you must remember is that the small motor/sun gear combination acts as a generator when the engine is running and the car is stopped. Same thing as being plugged in.

It is very cold here in Northern Michigan (-8 at night, -4 all day today. Actual temps, not windchill) I am very pleased with how my PacHy is performing, now that we've had it a month and the system has learned our local driving style. Most of our trips are 5 miles or less. I crank it up on the remote start (after opening the garage door) and the engine always starts under these conditions, as I leave the climate control on auto with all 3 zones set to 70 degrees. The 5 minute remote start period is enough to get everything warmed up and comfortable. (Love that heated steering wheel.) I have a digital tach that plugs into the OBD II port, and engine speed at startup is 1400 rpm. After it warms up a little, idle speed is 1100 rpm.

The engine will usually run most of the way to our destination, then turn off. The warmer it is outside, the shorter the run time. Engine rpm will get up to about 2400 if I hit the big grade at 75mph on the freeway south of where we live. In warmer temps, the engine doesn't come on until the battery is supplying precisely 60kW. It's fun to watch this happen as the battery power drops to 5kW or less, and engine zips up to 60.

If we've been in at our destination for around 45 minutes or more, the engine will start up again as we depart, but usually only runs a short time, then it's EV all the way home, 75mph freeway and all. I've been monitoring the engine coolant and oil temps, and the engine going off line corresponds with oil temps of 150-160 degrees, and coolant temps somewhat higher. The radiator shutters and the electric heating elements in the various cooling circuits do a marvelous job of keeping the engine temps where they belong. (I retired from the company that first applied radiator shutters to vehicles in the 1930s, so I'm kind of proud about that. Where they were first applied is tonite's quiz question.)

Many owners have gotten their knickers in a twist over the "fuel/oil refresh mode", where the vehicle enters hybrid only mode. They feel they have to run right out and put gas in the tank to reset it. Nonsense. I've had fuel/oil refresh come on four times in the last month, and it only lasted long enough to get the oil temp up to around 180 degrees, then it went away. This is an engine service feature. It does this so the moisture can be cooked out of the engine oil, thus extending its life. Without this, on a car where the engine does not operate 100% of the time, oil life would be very short. This kind of service used to destroy conventional engines in a very short time if the oil was not changed every 90 days. Ask any Ford "Y" block owner.

I have noticed only two software bugs, and I'm not really concerned. 1.) Every now and then, if I turn the vehicle off, engine running or not, the tachometer, the instrument panel and the center stack displays stay on, then cycle on and off while the car is parked. This could quickly kill the small 12V battery, so cannot be tolerated. Cure is simple: without touching the brake, turn it on then turn it off. (The Direct TV cure for anything.) This might be related to my tach, but I doubt it. 2.) I originally scheduled charges to take place from 11pm until full. That worked for awhile then it began turning off the charge in the middle of the night. I just reset it for 11pm to 10am, and it does fine now.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 08:23 AM
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I have L2 wall unit in the garage (unheated) and leave the pachy plugging in, ive never seen any indication the car is warming the pack.

Anyone know what they threshold is for battery condition warming (automatic not any type of remote start or anything)

Anyone witness or have pics or video of any display , or messages like “plug in to condition”or battery cold or hot plug in please.

Anything ?
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 09:43 AM
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I have L2 wall unit in the garage (unheated) and leave the pachy plugging in, ive never seen any indication the car is warming the pack.

Anyone know what they threshold is for battery condition warming (automatic not any type of remote start or anything)

Anyone witness or have pics or video of any display , or messages like “plug in to condition”or battery cold or hot plug in please.

Anything ?
I've only seen the message once, when I drove the car to the dealership this week to get the intermittently-malfunctioning left-side camera repaired. It was plugged into an L1 charger and garaged all night so the ambient temperature sensor saw a lot warmer than actual outdoor temperature, but after driving for 15 minutes in -13 °F, when I got there and stopped the engine it showed "Plug in for battery conditioning".
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 10:24 AM
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Woo -13 F 😨 would be neat to see if you could have plugged in at that point if in fact th vehicle would heat th pack
Sometimes heating is silent if they are embedded elements , on other vehicles you hear the heat pump running
Since pachy has no heat pump I bet it has heating elements
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 12:01 PM
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Woo -13 F would be neat to see if you could have plugged in at that point if in fact th vehicle would heat th pack

Sometimes heating is silent if they are embedded elements , on other vehicles you hear the heat pump running

Since pachy has no heat pump I bet it has heating elements
My understanding is it has electric heating elements and an electric coolant pump to circulate coolant through the battery for heating or cooling.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 01:32 PM
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Ok since it’s liquid heating and cooling you would hear the sound of a coolant pump running during the heating process of the pack.

Would be audible in a garage .
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