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Note that inexpensive, but very capable, OBD2 readers can be had for under $50. They work with every car sold in the US (although vehicle specific tools can be much more capable) and are a handy tool to have in your toolbox.
 

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Had a somewhat repeat performance last weekend while driving 250 miles from home in the rain! All kinds of alerts came on and off, then lost speed control with message "FCW inoperative". Continued driving about an hour until rain quit and stopped for a break, restarted vehicle and all is fine. Goes in shop again next week. Hopeful this is a clue as to the cause of my problems as with previous episode we had driven in rain that day and in snow/freezing rain situation for many miles the week before.
Intermittent electric problems....very hard to diagnose. If not a bad battery, I wonder if this could be one of those rare ground problems.
 

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I appreciate all that have made suggestions trying to help with my vehicle problems! As a retired 55 plus year electrician, I know the frustration when troubleshooting intermittent electrical problems and having built several batteries for submarine service, I understand batteries. We all demand all these modern technical advances to make life easier when, in fact, it means all the more than can go wrong. Perhaps I should still be driving my 54 Hudson Hornet Hollywood that I could repair myself [if could find parts]
 

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Had a somewhat repeat performance last weekend while driving 250 miles from home in the rain! All kinds of alerts came on and off, then lost speed control with message "FCW inoperative". Continued driving about an hour until rain quit and stopped for a break, restarted vehicle and all is fine. Goes in shop again next week. Hopeful this is a clue as to the cause of my problems as with previous episode we had driven in rain that day and in snow/freezing rain situation for many miles the week before.
Update on this problem: Van in shop eleven working days, replaced ABS module of computer which service department called "TIPM" module and checked all wiring circuits, cleared DTCS, all systems working properly, test drove, no more issues.
Verbal explanation of ABS/TIPM module is that it gets info from the sensors and interprets what to do with that info.
Keeping my fingers crossed and phone handy!
 

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I got the new Pacifica hybrid 2018. The car is not starting ..steering wheels are locked..even after moving the gear to drive mode, the car does not move.. the blue light at drive mode keeps blinking..
 

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Update on this problem: Van in shop eleven working days, replaced ABS module of computer which service department called "TIPM" module and checked all wiring circuits, cleared DTCS, all systems working properly, test drove, no more issues.
Verbal explanation of ABS/TIPM module is that it gets info from the sensors and interprets what to do with that info.
Keeping my fingers crossed and phone handy!
all well now?
 

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Have not had any repeat similar experiences yet, but have not driven much distance at highway speeds in the rain since the module change. Trying to regain faith in this vehicle as it is very nice vehicle for our use!
Have had some other intermittent electronic/mechanical episodes which I am sure the dealer would be unable to duplicate if I took it in to the shop.
 

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Drove about 700 miles in rain last week with no problems! Hopeful that is a good sign the module change solved my problems!
 

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Drove about 700 miles in rain last week with no problems! Hopeful that is a good sign the module change solved my problems!
Four more days in shop with shifting problem! No codes and can't duplicate! I give up!
 

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Four more days in shop with shifting problem! No codes and can't duplicate! I give up!
Have you check the transmission threads? It might help to be more specific with what is happening and to post in a related thread instead this one. I don't know where else you posted, so sorry if you've already tried.

My van has a similar build date. I had a transmission TSB update and the "learning" cleared twice. Seemed to help. Here are a couple links you can read.

https://www.pacificaforums.com/forum/525966-post48.html
https://www.pacificaforums.com/forum/356586-post2.html
 

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Hi, I have a good update. I had a very frustrating time with our Pacifica. The dealership had no answers for how to get it towed out of our garage. My wife stopped driving it after it refused to move at a light, then slipped into gear and lurched forward. I got back after 3 months, so the battery was dead. So, if anyone is in the same situation: Number one was to get the parking brake off. I choked the wheels and ran long jumper cables to the battery and got enough charge to release the brake (it is electronic). AAA tried this with a jumper box, it did not work. It probably needed steady amps. Then, there is a small door that you have to pry open on the dashboard. It is only about an inch wide and two inches long. It has a red cord that you pull to get the transmission into neutral. Then they can pull the car out of the garage. My mechanic checked the basics. We had a bad battery, already!! He said that the transmission relies on a steady voltage, and once the battery starts to dip below that voltage, the transmission is affected. Much better than an actual transmission problem. The car is fine now with a good battery. It would have been nice if the dealership could have told me this. They only have two Chrysler models, it's not like they have too many new car types to take care of. Maybe Chrysler should upgrade their battery supplier to something that is in line with the rest of the car. I don't want something like the airbags or collision prevention systems to fail because the battery is weak. I am going to check ours on a regular basis now!
 

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Hi, I have a good update. I had a very frustrating time with our Pacifica. The dealership had no answers for how to get it towed out of our garage. My wife stopped driving it after it refused to move at a light, then slipped into gear and lurched forward. I got back after 3 months, so the battery was dead. So, if anyone is in the same situation: Number one was to get the parking brake off. I choked the wheels and ran long jumper cables to the battery and got enough charge to release the brake (it is electronic). AAA tried this with a jumper box, it did not work. It probably needed steady amps. Then, there is a small door that you have to pry open on the dashboard. It is only about an inch wide and two inches long. It has a red cord that you pull to get the transmission into neutral. Then they can pull the car out of the garage. My mechanic checked the basics. We had a bad battery, already!! He said that the transmission relies on a steady voltage, and once the battery starts to dip below that voltage, the transmission is affected. Much better than an actual transmission problem. The car is fine now with a good battery. It would have been nice if the dealership could have told me this. They only have two Chrysler models, it's not like they have too many new car types to take care of. Maybe Chrysler should upgrade their battery supplier to something that is in line with the rest of the car. I don't want something like the airbags or collision prevention systems to fail because the battery is weak. I am going to check ours on a regular basis now!
The Chrysler dealership replaced the battery? Still under warranty no charge?
 
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