[sho1068]

For the past couple of weeks we have been having trouble with the voltage in our van. 2017 Limited, 105k miles.

I hooked up my multimeter and watched the voltage when parked. It drops to 12.4 or so, so battery seems to be taking a charge okay and holding. But as soon as we unlock the doors or raise the hatch, the voltage drops off to 9.x volts before coming back up to 10.x volts. After that the sliding doors won't work and it has a hard time starting. Typically after it has run for a while and the battery voltage is back up the doors/accessories start to work again, but then the ACC/CC systems and crash avoidance throw errors and won't work. Which is very annoying on long drives.

Has anyone else had this problem? I had the battery tested and it checked out okay. The alternator seems to be okay as it shows 14.2-14.4 volts when driving. I'm guessing it is a bad ground someplace in a system that comes on when the vehicle is powered on.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Jeremy M.]

For the past couple of weeks we have been having trouble with the voltage in our van. 2017 Limited, 105k miles.

I hooked up my multimeter and watched the voltage when parked. It drops to 12.4 or so, so battery seems to be taking a charge okay and holding. But as soon as we unlock the doors or raise the hatch, the voltage drops off to 9.x volts before coming back up to 10.x volts. After that the sliding doors won't work and it has a hard time starting. Typically after it has run for a while and the battery voltage is back up the doors/accessories start to work again, but then the ACC/CC systems and crash avoidance throw errors and won't work. Which is very annoying on long drives.

Has anyone else had this problem? I had the battery tested and it checked out okay. The alternator seems to be okay as it shows 14.2-14.4 volts when driving. I'm guessing it is a bad ground someplace in a system that comes on when the vehicle is powered on.

Thanks everyone.

Take it to an auto parts store and have the battery (or batteries if you have ESS) load tested. A voltmeter is not good enough to test for this.
If you do have ESS make sure they remove the negative terminal from the AUX battery before testing.
Pacifica's are power hungry beasts and weird things happen with weak batteries.

If they need to be replaced get AGM batteries.

 

[peterweb]

If you are on your original batteries, you have done well to last this long. Many reports here of batteries only lasing about 3 years.

 

[SciTchr]

For the past couple of weeks we have been having trouble with the voltage in our van. 2017 Limited, 105k miles.

I hooked up my multimeter and watched the voltage when parked. It drops to 12.4 or so, so battery seems to be taking a charge okay and holding. But as soon as we unlock the doors or raise the hatch, the voltage drops off to 9.x volts before coming back up to 10.x volts. After that the sliding doors won't work and it has a hard time starting. Typically after it has run for a while and the battery voltage is back up the doors/accessories start to work again, but then the ACC/CC systems and crash avoidance throw errors and won't work. Which is very annoying on long drives.

Has anyone else had this problem? I had the battery tested and it checked out okay. The alternator seems to be okay as it shows 14.2-14.4 volts when driving. I'm guessing it is a bad ground someplace in a system that comes on when the vehicle is powered on.

Thanks everyone.

I suspect that you need a new battery or batteries. You may also want to see if this recall needs to be done on your van. (Some 2017-2019 Pacifica vans with ESS.)

Recall V53

May 09,2019 NHTSA Recall Number 19V-348 Summary The battery ground may have been built with a sealer that is used during the wire harness manufacturing process may accumulate on the wire harness tab which may cause a loss of clamp load in the battery ground joint over time. A loose battery...

www.pacificaforums.com

If you put your van info in the signature line of account settings it will show up at the bottom of your posts and will help us answer your questions easier in the future. Build date is on the edge of the driver's door.

 

[sho1068]

Take it to an auto parts store and have the battery (or batteries if you have ESS) load tested. A voltmeter is not good enough to test for this.
If you do have ESS make sure they remove the negative terminal from the AUX battery before testing.
Pacifica's are power hungry beasts and weird things happen with weak batteries.

If they need to be replaced get AGM batteries.

I did take it in and have it tested, they are the ones that told me it was good.
No ESS on my van so I lucked out there.
I definitely plan on replacing it with AGM. My kids love to push buttons and play in the van, which I suspect may be one of the root causes of the issue.

If you are on your original batteries, you have done well to last this long. Many reports here of batteries only lasing about 3 years.

I don't see a manufacture date on the battery so I cannot say for sure, but based on the condition I would guess it is the original.

I suspect that you need a new battery or batteries. You may also want to see if this recall needs to be done on your van. (Some 2017-2019 Pacifica vans with ESS.)

Recall V53

May 09,2019 NHTSA Recall Number 19V-348 Summary The battery ground may have been built with a sealer that is used during the wire harness manufacturing process may accumulate on the wire harness tab which may cause a loss of clamp load in the battery ground joint over time. A loose battery...

www.pacificaforums.com

If you put your van info in the signature line of account settings it will show up at the bottom of your posts and will help us answer your questions easier in the future. Build date is on the edge of the driver's door.

No ESS system here, fortunately. I'll be adding the information, thanks for the tip!

 

[Diogennes]

I'm having a similar issue where the A/C at idle increases and decreases speeds, and I get a parking brake not available currently warning and a service Stability Control Systems warning (they flash and go away). See the video here.

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1410266546279223299

 

[SciTchr]

I'm having a similar issue where the A/C at idle increases and decreases speeds, and I get a parking brake not available currently warning and a service Stability Control Systems warning (they flash and go away). See the video here.

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1410266546279223299

Rule out dying battery issue since a low battery can cause odd messages in the display.

 

[Diogennes]

Rule out dying battery issue since a low battery can cause odd messages in the display.

Does this indicate a dying battery? The voltage fluctuates with the A/C. I'm just sitting in a parking lot after starting up. I'd just driven 15 miles or so and it was off for about 30 minutes.

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1410292587462901769

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

You either have a bad battery or a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. A bad battery can destroy an alternator if you let it go too long.

I would go with the battery first.

 

[Diogennes]

You either have a bad battery or a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. A bad battery can destroy an alternator if you let it go too long.

I would go with the battery first.

Is there a specific battery I OUGHT to get or just go with Autozone's suggestions?

 

[Jeremy M.]

Is there a specific battery I OUGHT to get or just go with Autozone's suggestions?

Get an AGM battery and AutoZone is probably better then the factory one.
Just have them load test the battery first before replacing it.

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

Is there a specific battery I OUGHT to get or just go with Autozone's suggestions?

You can get an AGM battery to the proper specifications cheaper at Sam's Club if you are a member.

 

[SciTchr]

Is there a specific battery I OUGHT to get or just go with Autozone's suggestions?

Make sure you get a battery for a non-ESS Pacifica if that is what you have. Since there is only one battery (instead of two) you might want to see if the size or type is different than those with ESS. Chrysler has put a regular battery (not AGM) as a replacement in my van (non-ESS) as needed.

Battery Replacement: Procedure

Well, this post is not exactly about 'procedure'. Running some errands Saturday and when I lifted my foot off the brake the normal ESS seemed odd. Kind of like it did a double start in a micro second and sure enough............"Service ESS system" appeared on the dash. We finished our errands...

www.pacificaforums.com

 

[sho1068]

Rule out dying battery issue since a low battery can cause odd messages in the display.

I do get errors in the ACC and Cruise systems often. When the vehicle has been sitting the sliding doors will not operate on their own and I get a hard start. But after the vehicle is running and the voltage on the dash is showing 14.3 - 14.4 the doors miraculously start working again.

I love all the features of the van, but I should have known since they are electronic they would all be temperamental.

 

[peterweb]

I do get errors in the ACC and Cruise systems often. When the vehicle has been sitting the sliding doors will not operate on their own and I get a hard start. But after the vehicle is running and the voltage on the dash is showing 14.3 - 14.4 the doors miraculously start working again.

I love all the features of the van, but I should have known since they are electronic they would all be temperamental.

The voltage with the engine running is from the charging system. Not the battery. You only get a battery reading with the engine off. Best checked just before you go to start the vehicle at the beginning of the day.

 

[sho1068]

The voltage with the engine running is from the charging system. Not the battery. You only get a battery reading with the engine off. Best checked just before you go to start the vehicle at the beginning of the day.

I'm aware. See my original post about the voltage with vehicle off.

 

[Diogennes]

So I went to a friends house last night and threw a volt meter on the batter with car off. It read 10.1 volts. Started it, and put the meter on and it was a pretty consistent 14 volts. So I concluded the battery was likely bad since the voltage from the alternator wasn't fluctuating much. Replaced the battery (Advance has a Die Hard H7 AGM for $220 but got a veterans 10% discount - walked out for $211 and change AND they installed it for me in the 100 degree heat (I watched/assisted so I'd know what they were doing.). I just drove 50 miles or so and had zero dashboard freakouts. I think this fixed my issue! Thank you all!

 

[sho1068]

Despite Advance Auto saying my battery was good, I replaced it anyway with an Energizer Platinum AGM from Sam's Club.

Vehicle has been working fine for a week with much stronger starting and no dash lights/ACC issues.

Thanks everybody. Moral of the story, go with your gut.