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My 2017 Chrysler Pacifica's (39k miles) check engine light turned on a week ago (Saturday) which pulled the OBDII code "P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit Low." I was able to drive the vehicle with no issues and as I had a previous scheduled appointment with the dealer to address two open recalls, I waited until the following Friday to have the error code looked at.

On Friday morning, the recalls were addressed without issue (NHTSA Recall #18V-395 & 18V-332). The dealership told me that the error code was related to the fuel rail sensor and would need to be replaced. I agreed to the replacement and they proceeded with the repair. Once the vehicle was turned over to me, I noticed a strong fuel smell in the cabin which dissipated over the following day. The vehicle was driven around town running errands on Friday and Saturday.

Sunday morning, I filled the gas tank for the first time since the repair on Friday occurred and the tank had less than a 1/4 remaining during this time. The vehicle was than driven less than 10 miles and turned off while at home. Three hours later, the wife and kids turned on the ignition and the engine cranked but was not turning over. They then smelled a strong odor of gasoline and came back inside from the car. I went outside and saw a steady stream of gasoline on the driveway, directly under the engine bay. I also attempted to start the vehicle with no luck and the same symptoms. After a few minutes, the gasoline stopped dripping and the van is sitting idle in the driveway.

At this point, the vehicle is not drivable, and not safe as far as I'm concerned, as it will not start and I suppose I will need to tow it back to the dealership on Monday morning. The repair on Friday of the fuel rail sensor and not the car not started with leaking gasoline must be related, right? Is there any other issue that may have caused this or am I crazy to think this very well might be a labor issue that caused this issue. Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Spot on. Or, a bad part.
Good to hear that my assumption sounds on track. I suppose I'll find out tomorrow and ensure that I don't pay for the dealership to repair their mistake. I'll post more when I have some answers.
 

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Kinda dangerous situation! I wouldn’t crank it anymore with fuel spilling. Definitely a dealer repair boo boo related to the fuel rail. The fuel hose is detached from the rail, or the sensor is detached from the rail or one or more injectors are detached from the rail (usually if the rail isn’t bolted down on one end). I’ve done it myself.

“Crank” and “turn over” are the same. Tell dealer it will crank but won’t start or it will turn over but won’t start. However “fuel spilling on the ground while cranking” will really get their attention, haha, as that is a very dangerous situation and likely a result of the previous repair.
 

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Kinda dangerous situation! I wouldn’t crank it anymore with fuel spilling. Definitely a dealer repair boo boo related to the fuel rail. The fuel hose is detached from the rail, or the sensor is detached from the rail or one or more injectors are detached from the rail (usually if the rail isn’t bolted down on one end). I’ve done it myself.

“Crank” and “turn over” are the same. Tell dealer it will crank but won’t start or it will turn over but won’t start. However “fuel spilling on the ground while cranking” will really get their attention, haha, as that is a very dangerous situation and entirely their fault.
This let's be feel at ease and I shouldn't expect a costly repair when I speak to them tomorrow morning. As I have 39k mileage and am out of the 3yr/36k bumper to bumper warranty, I was able to convince the dealer to repair the failed fuel rail sensor at no additional cost. The shop liaison told me that they were able to code the repair as an emissions related repair which was accepted from Mopar. When I questioned if that was due to a state emissions regulation (dealer is in PA but vehicle is registered in DE) or federal regulation, he side stepped and wouldn't answer the question. I didn't push any further and figured that since I purchased the vehicle at the same dealer and have had all maintenance completed there, they probably erred on the side of making a loyal customer happy.

After reviewing my maintenance records, the same P018C Fuel Pressure Sensor B Circuit Low code appeared in Feb. 2017 which resulted in the same sensor being replaced and clearing the code. I suppose that's why I wasn't charged for the same repair on Friday.

This issue as well as others has me convinced to purchase the Ziegler lifetime MaximumCare warranty. What are the current discount codes for this month to help offset the up front cost of this warranty?
 

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Scary Similar Situation

Wow SnoozyD! I thought I was the only one that had this problem. Our situations are crazy scary similar! You had a bad fuel pressure sensor, very common, as Chrysler is having lots of issues with this sensor. They replace it with the Tube Fuel Supply assembly, which has the the sensor built into the tube assembly, part number: 52030445AA. Where things went wrong was an incompetent technician who installed the fuel clip improperly causing the fuel line to pop off or leak, spilling fuel all over and causing your engine to turn over but not start (no fuel delivered to the rail). This could have resulted in an engine fire (if your engine was hot) as 50 psi of fuel dumped onto the ground through the engine compartment.

I had the exact same thing happen to me. When I popped the hood, there was the Tube Fuel Supply line disconnected from the tube stub and fuel all over the place. Upon inspection, I found a broken fuel line clip that was not installed correctly when they switched out my tube fuel supply line. I have temporarily placed a wedge to hold the line in place so I can drive to the dealership tomorrow. I should probably tow it in, but they are only 5 miles down the road, and I will stop and check on the way to make sure my temporary wedge stays in place, probably bring a fire extinguisher with me too. Car is parked outside tonight so all the fuel can vaporize (terrible smell in the garage!)

I'll let everyone know how it goes tomorrow when I give the dealer a mouth full. Pictures attached.


2017 Chrysler Pacifica Touring Plus 22K miles
 

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Any tricks to be aware of when installing this piece? Just bought a new part and it will be here in a week. Will there be pressure if the car is not on when I remove the old piece? People seem to have problems with the clips, what do I look out for? Thanks!
 

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Just had the check engine light come on for my 2017 Pacifica 40k miles. Brought it to the dealer and their diag tool says

fuel pressure sensor b circuit low

They are replacing it now. Hoping they do a good job.

Update: repair went well. Don't see any problems under the hood. Cabin smells like gas a bit, maybe just from the repair person.

Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk
 

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Anyone do this replacement themselves. I would like to do it or find out how much to have it replaced. Any advice would be great
 

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My wife's Pacifica just got a check engine light over the weekend. Stopped into a local dealer to have the code scanned. They stated it was a fuel rail sensor and it is not covered under warranty. Quoted $360 for the repair. I see it is a $50 part so I told her to get out of there. They charged her $90 for scanning it. This is absolutely rediculous. Calling the service manager today for a piece of mind. The dealership where we purchased the van new quoted $225 out the door for the repair. I'm thinking of buying the part and putting it on myself. Looks quick and easy.
 

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My parts are supposed to arrive today. I'll do some documentation when I get started. The repair should be very easy I just don't know how hard it will be to get to yet..
 

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It took me all of about 10 minutes to replace. You need to remove QTY 2 10MM bolts from the top breather cover and then pull the cover straight off the intake. This will get you access to where the engine side of the fuel tube attaches.
1. I removed the firewall side of the fuel tube first. This is under pressure so I had a rag handy so fuel doesn't spray back at you. Simply use your fingers to carefully pull the red retainer tab up. Once you release the red safety tab the fuel tube pulls right off the steel line that goes up toward the firewall.
2. Next I removed the wiring from the sensor. You carefully slide the gray retainer tab backwards away from the connection. Once you have the gray retainder slid out you can then push down on the tab to remove the wire harness from the sensor.
3. Finally the intake side of the rail can be removed. You have to go at this one kind of blind since it's under the intake plennum a bit. Just side a small flat blade screwdriver under the blue safety retainer and it will lift up easily. Once the blue clip is in the up position you can then reach your hand under the bottom of this connection and push the white button on the bottom. This will open up the connector and it will pull off the intake.

It is easiest to look at your new part to kind of figure out what you need to do and plan. I have included pics of what I was describing. Hope this helps someone.

My Check Engine light is still on today. I tried to pull the negative off the battery for an hour and that did not reset it. I've heard maybe driving it will bring it off after the ECM scans that sensor again or I will have to take it to AutoZone to have them reset it?
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Huntsaver, thanks so much for posting the description and pictures. Sounds like the 10 minute DIY job saved you $335, nice!
 
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