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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

On Dec 22, my Pacifica didn't start. Bought Oct 24, only has slightly over 1,000 miles on it. I like to get any tips on the process of getting it repaired.

Issue Detail

Driver screen power gauge stays at "off", though ignition light is in "Run", entertainment panel starts up normally, sliding doors can open/close.
Driver screen intermittently shows Acc/Ignition is still on, and the ding ding sound goes on constantly.
Check engine light icon is always on, battery icon comes up red, then goes away.
If gear selector shifted to D, the D icon is blinking until it is shifted back to P. Pressing brake pedal and pressing Start/stop doesn't do anything further. Car does not make characteristic faint "whine" like sound when the electrical system starts. Car can be shutdown. I think I hear click-click-click sounds when pressing start while holding brake pedal
(User's guide says there is a contactor that engages when the start button is pressed, i.e. the 12V battery needs enough power to get the HV sub-system started)
Checked the driver panel displays. Clearly gas engine isn't started. 12V Battery voltage is 11.7V - on the low side of the scale.
No stored message.
Plug in an OBD-II scanner. No codes, engine not running, but it does show the same battery voltage.
Plug in 110V charging cable. Two side LEDs flashing on the dash (User's guide says that is a charging system error), driver screen shows "Service High Voltage System". (Car was previously charged overnight and at 100% at time of this issue)
Using Uconnect remote app on phone, current status can be updated (still shows all vehicle systems good), but the range left is blank. (100% charge and gas fuel levels are accurate). Car cannot be remote started. Driver panel shows, "remote start has been disabled".

Best guess so far as to what is wrong

Probably some issue with the high voltage system.
Possibly 12V battery is low, but should not be too low to have started the HV system
A bit surprised the car screens did not show something more informative, like, "contact service"

What I have done so far?
Found out Chrysler Mopar has free towing to nearest dealer, or if another is chosen, but more than 10 miles away from nearest, a charge may apply.

Called three of the nearest dealers. Issue is Dec 22 is the Saturday before the Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

First dealer told me well, they are closed Sunday till Tuesday, and there is only one technician in on Saturday and they already have several Pacifica Hybrids waiting for attention.

Seconder dealer said they can't take walk-ins.

Third dealer said they are backed-up, may be two weeks till the car gets looked at, how about trying another dealer (even further away), or AAA in case it's a dead battery?

I don't have AAA but I have roadside assistance from my insurance. I call them to ask for a jump start. Figure it won't hurt.
90 minutes later, jump start guy arrives, but as I expected, jump start fails.

A person suggested disconnecting the 12V battery, waiting 5 minutes, then reconnecting. I looked at the user's guide and couldn't figure how to do so - the remote terminals are clearly shown, the fuses are shown, but the user's guide doesn't point to where the disconnection would have to be done. I decided not to go mucking around further. Plus, there was the holidays, might as well enjoy that time of the year!

Thoughts

The reason I called the three nearest dealers is I wanted to get a gauge how busy they would be if I were to bring it in, as I don't want to wait unnecessarily. At least the Pacifica didn't start while parked in the garage at home, and I have another car, so I ended up, not as pleasant but do-able, using the other car over the long holiday weekend.

The jump start guy was a lot more emphatic on Saturday, he said I should have been pushy with the dealer, like, "I need this serviced now, so what there is a holiday, I need the car for work!" I figured, it is the holidays, it's more challenging getting stuff done, and I don't want to get into a temper or all just before the holidays when I know folks are short-staffed.

Now the holidays are over, I'm setting up myself to call Mopar roadside assistance Dec 26 morning to get the car towed to a dealer (probably the first dealer, because I prefer them on all the three), and will see what their service department can do.

Questions


  1. Is there anything else I should do?
  2. Any similar threads showing an issue or experience like this? (I found some, it seems some had an inverter replaced)
  3. Should I be extra concerned about how the car is towed or would Chrysler roadside assistance do the right thing? I hope it gets on a flat-bed truck, not towed by the wheels.
  4. Is there anything I should take out of the vehicle?
  5. About how long do you think it would take to get fixed? I was hearing possibly 2-3 weeks!
  6. Is it normal for the dealer to provide a loaner vehicle, if it's going to take more than a day to fix, or it's more of a "it depends" or "it depends how much you ask?"
In 20 over years of driving, including rental cars, this is the first time I've had a car not start, that was not due to a dead 12V battery. I of course know it could happen, but practically speaking have been fortunate. Very much hoping this is just a rare event with the Pacifica. We like the car very much, but we need it to be working!
 

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This mostly sound like what happens if I press the start button witout the brake depressed. Maybe the brake switch is faulty? Otherwise I would just assume it is a bad 12v battery given experiences that others have had. How did they try to jump it?

I am curious what happens when you plug in the charger? If the HV battery can't be connected I would assume you would get an error then. Maybe try to start it with the charger connected.
 

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Indigo,

I'm sorry to hear that you are also having problems with your vehicle. This sounds very similar to what I experienced a few weeks back. My vehicle is currently in the shop and I was told that I should get it back by mid January. I was also initially told that it would be a while before they had a chance to evaluate the vehicle but I had it towed to the dealer where I bought it from and that forced them to deal with it. They did give me a loaner in the mean time so that has made it much easier to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Called Roadside Assistance and tow truck arrived in 20 minutes. Very good. Tow truck provider were very professional. However they could not take me to my preferred dealer, only the nearest, claimed due to insurance coverage. Would have been nice if this could have been sorted out on the call web page prior where I did specify the preferred dealer.

That was the dealer that said they were all backed up on Dec 22. Arrived at dealer, they said they only gave 2 technicians who can look at this model and it may be 1-2 weeks before they can look at it.

No loaner. Advised me to contact Chrysler directly to request. I’m going to try look up that number now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Both the roadside assistance and the tow truck tried to jump start using a battery pack connected to the remote 12V battery terminals under the hood. There was no noticeable change in the car’s behaviour. Note, it’s a hybrid, so pressing start doesn’t have any noticeable gas engine cranking up sort of noise. Just lights up the displays and the headlights.

Been depressing the brake hard, the sensor definitely does sense if it is depressed because the electric parking brake (required to be released to be towed) does not disengage unless the foot brake pedal is depressed.


This mostly sound like what happens if I press the start button witout the brake depressed. Maybe the brake switch is faulty? Otherwise I would just assume it is a bad 12v battery given experiences that others have had. How did they try to jump it?

I am curious what happens when you plug in the charger? If the HV battery can't be connected I would assume you would get an error then. Maybe try to start it with the charger connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Didn't try start with charger connected, but I suspect it wouldn't allow the car to enter D, though it might give other kinds of warning messages. The two outer lights started blinking as soon as the charger cable was connected, which the user's guide says, "Indicates an error in the charging process." That was a pretty big clue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Called Chrysler consumer and they took a case advisory. Said a case advisor would contact within 1-2 business days. Said if the dealer did not offer a loaner vehicle, it wasn't going to happen with another dealer, had to be from the same dealer the vehicle got taken to. Said I could get a rental vehicle that Chrysler would reimburse up to $35/day for up to 5 days, whilst waiting for the case advisor to call back.

I took the shuttle to a Hertz and despite them being very low on inventory, the manager was very understanding and let me have all that they had left, a fully-loaded vehicle (though a sedan, not a minivan) for a good rate.

It seems from reading other posts, it could take several weeks for this to be diagnosed the fixed. I hope the dealer (Steves Creek in San Jose) takes good care and does it within 2-3 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Chrysler consumer (FCA) called me back. They called the dealer and was told there were only 2 technicians that could look into the car (same thing I was earlier told), but that they would start looking into it on Jan 1 (6 days after towing it in). They also said the dealer would offer me a car rental (or loaner, up to the dealer), for 5 days, and possibly longer if needed. The dealer hopes to get a resolution before those 5 days. I confirmed I had already started a car rental and FCA gave me an email/link to send in the receipt. The case advisor said she would be my one point of contact with FCA, and would be happy to extend the rental I had or return it and take the loaner from the dealer. She advised me to call the dealer to confirm. Finally she also said it was not great for the car to be out of action being so new, so they would want to make sure I would be back with it resolved soon.
I called the dealer and was told yes, and they could do even 10 days if needed.
The only downside is we were hoping to take the Pacifica on a family road-trip before the end of the holiday period. It wouldn't be as pleasant to do so with a rental car. Still, the road trip wasn't fully fleshed out/planned/booked, so I guess this made for that outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick update.

The dealer did get to work on the car "earlier" than they originally promised (+6 days after it was sent in). Their technicians clocked in 3+4 hours on it. Actually, I could see that from the Uconnect app, as it actually showed that the car was attempted to be charged (and then registered a high voltage charging fault -- sent to the app!) but then was, and then it accumulated some miles and notably, it now displays a range left.

I visited the dealer on 12/31 after returning the Hertz car, and they said they were in contact with Chrysler via STAR, though it seems to run now, they still have work to do/close on, and would get another update to me on 1/2. Finally, and it seems thanks to the FCA help, the dealer cheerfully arranged a shuttle to a local car rental company, which got me a Dodge Grand Caravan to use till 1/3, then we'll checkpoint again on the Pacifica. It's a big step down from a Pacifica, which they all acknowledged, but they are trying and working on it.

Happy New Year!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hi,

FCA sent me a message on 1/3/19 stating that the vehicle should be complete that day. I called the dealer who said yes, but they would like to do a few more checks, so wait for a call. I eventually got a text message on 1/4/19 late afternoon stating it would be ready for pick-up. Due to my schedule, I returned the loaner and picked it up on 1/5/19 morning.

So what's interesting is what they found. I tried to scan and OCR the relevant part but the background made it hard, so I'll type in my summary.

Found codes:
1) HVAC B10EB-00 Blower Power Module - Stored
2) RADIO B1561-13 Cellular Antenna 2-Circuit Open Stored
3) BPCM P1D3E-00 Internal Control Module Shut Off Test Error - Stored

Checked for TSBS, STARCASES, and Controller updates, none found.
Notice 12V battery is at 11.23 V (that's lower than 11.7-11.9V when taking it in)
Hooked it up to GR-8 machine to perform battery test. Battery needs to be charged. After charging passes GR-8 test. Perform capacitance discharge.

Hookup battery and check battery voltage. With Witech, check voltage, only reading 11.54V. Disconnect Witech and battery, inspect connections. Found connections have poor connection surfaces. Clean connections with wire brush and reassemble. Boot Witech, check voltage, now reads 12.5V.

Notice as soon as battery hooked up, radio screen showed software update in progress at 25%. Let software update complete.

Check proper radio operation - screen black and would not restart. Shut off vehicle and disconnect battery, capacitance discharge procedure for 30 min, reconnect battery.

Radio is now working but ghost images present on screeen.

Hookup Witech, perform reset with Witech, check radio, no change.

Check radio for paired devices, found several, erase all paired devices, clear personal data, manually reset the radio via engineering mode.

Shut off vehicle and cycle vehicle bus for 30 mins, check radio, now working as designed.

Check vehicle for proper operation, now working as designed.

Next, plug in vehicle and try and charge the high voltage battery. High voltage battery will not charge.

Erase all codes. Codes did erase. Road test vehicle, check engine light came on during road test. Return to shop, perform high voltage power down procedure, disconnect, and isolation test. Remove all BPCM connectors and inspect all terminals for damage and pin pushout. Nothing found. Perform pin tension test on all connectors, all pins pass. Reassemble vehicle, perform high voltage system power up procedure, boot witech, erase all codes, plug vehicle into charging station. Vehicle is now charging.

Complete charging cycle, road test vehicle 35 miles to deplete, return to shop, plug vehicle into charging station, recharges again successfully.

Do 28-point inspection. All levels full. (I noticed the oil level is now in the 90% range when it was in the 70% range when "new", not sure if it was filled up or an artifact of the reset). Otherwise all OK.

---

That's essentially the service notes.

So what do I think?

It looks like the vehicle stored 3 fault codes, but I'm not clear what could cause them.

It looks like the connection from the 12V battery to the vehicle became degraded for some reason - causing a lowered voltage. I wonder if it could cause those fault codes. (When I powered up the vehicle at the dealer, I noticed the driver panel screen was last set to the battery voltage info - and it was showing 14.5V).

It doesn't look like anything was replaced - codes were cleared, systems disconnected, examined, OK, and then reconnected, reset, but the fact that the check engine light came on during their road test, and the only remedy was to disconnect and reconnect doesn't give me any high confidence the check engine light wouldn't come on again. Thoughts?

Also looks like on Thursday they may have tried turning it on, discharging to 60%, then recharge, again, just to see it does so.

True, the radio was reset, so things like icon placement, BT re-pairing, all have to be redone. Plus some light (hopefully cleanable) hand-print/foot marks on the driver side door.

Overall - issue found on 12/22, took it in 12/26, done 1/4/19.
 

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Thank you for the update. It isn't often we get clear feedback like that. I find the dirty connections plausible. He didn't say what codes were present when he "erased all codes". I wonder if there were any new ones besides the initial three. But if the "BPCM P1D3E-00 Internal Control Module Shut Off Test Error - Stored" code was still present that could very well prevent the charging from starting. According to the high voltage battery description the BPCM does do some internal checking when it wakes up and if there is a stored code from a problem detected in the past then it might be programmed to abort and not close the contactors that connect the high voltage battery to the charging system.

High voltage battery system description
 

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Any new update? Mine seems to be doing same thing...twice, but dealer can't duplicate......after a week each time at dealership. Battery goes dead, they charge it and runs normal again.
 

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Hi,

FCA sent me a message on 1/3/19 stating that the vehicle should be complete that day. I called the dealer who said yes, but they would like to do a few more checks, so wait for a call. I eventually got a text message on 1/4/19 late afternoon stating it would be ready for pick-up. Due to my schedule, I returned the loaner and picked it up on 1/5/19 morning.

So what's interesting is what they found. I tried to scan and OCR the relevant part but the background made it hard, so I'll type in my summary.

Found codes:
1) HVAC B10EB-00 Blower Power Module - Stored
2) RADIO B1561-13 Cellular Antenna 2-Circuit Open Stored
3) BPCM P1D3E-00 Internal Control Module Shut Off Test Error - Stored

Checked for TSBS, STARCASES, and Controller updates, none found.
Notice 12V battery is at 11.23 V (that's lower than 11.7-11.9V when taking it in)
Hooked it up to GR-8 machine to perform battery test. Battery needs to be charged. After charging passes GR-8 test. Perform capacitance discharge.

Hookup battery and check battery voltage. With Witech, check voltage, only reading 11.54V. Disconnect Witech and battery, inspect connections. Found connections have poor connection surfaces. Clean connections with wire brush and reassemble. Boot Witech, check voltage, now reads 12.5V.

Notice as soon as battery hooked up, radio screen showed software update in progress at 25%. Let software update complete.

Check proper radio operation - screen black and would not restart. Shut off vehicle and disconnect battery, capacitance discharge procedure for 30 min, reconnect battery.

Radio is now working but ghost images present on screeen.

Hookup Witech, perform reset with Witech, check radio, no change.

Check radio for paired devices, found several, erase all paired devices, clear personal data, manually reset the radio via engineering mode.

Shut off vehicle and cycle vehicle bus for 30 mins, check radio, now working as designed.

Check vehicle for proper operation, now working as designed.

Next, plug in vehicle and try and charge the high voltage battery. High voltage battery will not charge.

Erase all codes. Codes did erase. Road test vehicle, check engine light came on during road test. Return to shop, perform high voltage power down procedure, disconnect, and isolation test. Remove all BPCM connectors and inspect all terminals for damage and pin pushout. Nothing found. Perform pin tension test on all connectors, all pins pass. Reassemble vehicle, perform high voltage system power up procedure, boot witech, erase all codes, plug vehicle into charging station. Vehicle is now charging.

Complete charging cycle, road test vehicle 35 miles to deplete, return to shop, plug vehicle into charging station, recharges again successfully.

Do 28-point inspection. All levels full. (I noticed the oil level is now in the 90% range when it was in the 70% range when "new", not sure if it was filled up or an artifact of the reset). Otherwise all OK.

---

That's essentially the service notes.

So what do I think?

It looks like the vehicle stored 3 fault codes, but I'm not clear what could cause them.

It looks like the connection from the 12V battery to the vehicle became degraded for some reason - causing a lowered voltage. I wonder if it could cause those fault codes. (When I powered up the vehicle at the dealer, I noticed the driver panel screen was last set to the battery voltage info - and it was showing 14.5V).

It doesn't look like anything was replaced - codes were cleared, systems disconnected, examined, OK, and then reconnected, reset, but the fact that the check engine light came on during their road test, and the only remedy was to disconnect and reconnect doesn't give me any high confidence the check engine light wouldn't come on again. Thoughts?

Also looks like on Thursday they may have tried turning it on, discharging to 60%, then recharge, again, just to see it does so.

True, the radio was reset, so things like icon placement, BT re-pairing, all have to be redone. Plus some light (hopefully cleanable) hand-print/foot marks on the driver side door.

Overall - issue found on 12/22, took it in 12/26, done 1/4/19.
Hello Indigo,

We're sorry this is happening - if you are still in need of assistance having this addressed by your dealer, please PM us.


Any new update? Mine seems to be doing same thing...twice, but dealer can't duplicate......after a week each time at dealership. Battery goes dead, they charge it and runs normal again.
Hi Firesnoopy,

Is this still happening with your vehicle, please PM us so we can work with your dealership to have this looked into further.

Jennifer
Chrysler Social Care Specialsit
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi @ChryslerCares,

It's been about two weeks since it was back from the dealer and coming up to a month since the incident. So far, so good, the car's working - drives well, just like before. Managed to clean off all the hand-print marks with a little water and magic eraser. Hope that was all the fix was - improving the connection on the 12V battery.

Want to acknowledge the good support from FCA over the phone - following up on email and calls - and also covering the my initial rental cost and helping the dealer cover the loaner. And the tow-truck personnel that came over were fantastic. A bit of a hassle running around, debugging it initially, and of course there's a nagging worry it may happen again (and seeing it happen to others on this forum too). But it's a great car so I hope this fix does it.
 

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Hi @ChryslerCares,

It's been about two weeks since it was back from the dealer and coming up to a month since the incident. So far, so good, the car's working - drives well, just like before. Managed to clean off all the hand-print marks with a little water and magic eraser. Hope that was all the fix was - improving the connection on the 12V battery.

Want to acknowledge the good support from FCA over the phone - following up on email and calls - and also covering the my initial rental cost and helping the dealer cover the loaner. And the tow-truck personnel that came over were fantastic. A bit of a hassle running around, debugging it initially, and of course there's a nagging worry it may happen again (and seeing it happen to others on this forum too). But it's a great car so I hope this fix does it.
Hi Indigo,

I'm so glad this was able to be resolved for you despite the initial frustration! If there's anything else you need in the future, please PM us any time.

Jennifer
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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The same problem seems to have happened to me. I have a 2018 Hybrid with about 5,200 miles on it.

Car won't start. Battery reads 11.8V sometimes and 12V other times. Tried to jump it without success. Basically everything you described is happened (though I'm not able to scan for codes to check those).

This happened on the street fairly close to my house. It was towed to the dealer this morning using Chrysler roadside assistance. Everyone at Chrysler tried to be helpful, but the towing experience was not ideal. Chrysler had to make three towing company requests over the course of three hours before the first company finally showed up. But the job was done in the end.

The dealer has the car now and is scheduled to look at it Friday morning. I've engaged @ChryslerCares to help in any way they can.

I'll try to update here as things happen.
 

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Any new update? Mine seems to be doing same thing...twice, but dealer can't duplicate......after a week each time at dealership. Battery goes dead, they charge it and runs normal again.
@Firesnoopy Did you ever come to any resolution on your issue? The dealer charged mine and is now saying it's fine. They test drove. No codes. I'm very worried about getting stuck somewhere again with the same issue.
 

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@Firesnoopy Did you ever come to any resolution on your issue? The dealer charged mine and is now saying it's fine. They test drove. No codes. I'm very worried about getting stuck somewhere again with the same issue.
This just happened to mine. Anyone have any luck on getting this resolved or figuring out the cause? I have to get it towed to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
 

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This just happened to mine. Anyone have any luck on getting this resolved or figuring out the cause? I have to get it towed to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
I don't have a hybrid, but if you can jump start your van and drive it to the dealer, it might be easier than getting a hybrid towed from what I've read on the forum.
If you put your van info (year, trim, gas/hybrid, etc.) in the signature line it is helpful for those answering your questions.
 
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