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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to get my 2nd drivers side lower control arm replaced. I don't know why the lower control arm keeps failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
2017 Limited
May 2019 was the first replacement at 32k miles
Now at 57k miles the 2nd one is being installed.
 

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There was a bad production run on some of those. I had to have mine replaced some time ago. It is possible your replacement part was part of that production run.
 

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2018 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L
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I am about to get my 2nd drivers side lower control arm replaced. I don't know why the lower control arm keeps failing.
What's actually going bad, the control arm bushings or the ball joint? The control arm itself is made of cast aluminum and can't really fail unless it sustains physical damage. The entire control arm assembly must be replaced if either of the bushings or the ball joint wears out because none of those parts are sold separately.

There was a bad production run on some of those. I had to have mine replaced some time ago. It is possible your replacement part was part of that production run.
None of the control arms ever had a bad production run. Some ball joints weren't properly fastened to the steering knuckle which required the control arms (and in some cases the steering knuckle too) to be replaced, but none of the control arms themselves were defective.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What's actually going bad, the control arm bushings or the ball joint? The control arm itself is made of cast aluminum and can't really fail unless it sustains physical damage. The entire control arm assembly must be replaced if either of the bushings or the ball joint wears out because none of those parts are sold separately. None of the control arms ever had a bad production run. Some ball joints weren't properly fastened to the steering knuckle which required the control arms (and in some cases the steering knuckle too) to be replaced, but none of the control arms themselves were defective.
suspension creeking when in reverse turning the wheel. Same issue the first time. I don’t know what exactly failed. It is covered under warranty. Same service department.
Thanks.
 

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Just curious do you have 18 or 20 inch tires ? . If it’s the same side then I’d say it’s a possible that it’s just a coincidence . Tie rods usually go bad because of poor lubrication , poor roads or over tightening it in the replacement . Putting oversize tires / rims on a vehicle adds to suspension weight and also has potential to wear out these parts .
 

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Is this related to recall V15, ball joint, which resulted in replacement of lower control arm pinch bolt (front knuckle)?
 

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2018 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L
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Discussion Starter #10
3 days until lower control arm arrives. As of right now it is being replaced under the extended unlimited/unlimited warranty. I pay my $100 deductible for the repair.

Under warranty in 2019 I had the lower control arm, strut bearing and strut replaced and recall 08-V5-31-82 done.

Maybe the extended warranty will pay for itself?
 

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3 days until lower control arm arrives. As of right now it is being replaced under the extended unlimited/unlimited warranty. I pay my $100 deductible for the repair.

Under warranty in 2019 I had the lower control arm, strut bearing and strut replaced and recall 08-V5-31-82 done.

Maybe the extended warranty will pay for itself?
I don't think the control arm/bushings/ball joint is the source of the problem. This TSB seems applicable here.
 

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I think this is what @ThisSuckersElectrical was referring to, but the OP's issue is unrelated to recall V15.
MIne had nothing to do with the recall and my VIN was not part of that. The rear control arm bushing failed on mine. Bad rubber production. V15 if I remember right was for the passenger side only.
 

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MIne had nothing to do with the recall and my VIN was not part of that. The rear control arm bushing failed on mine. Bad rubber production. V15 if I remember right was for the passenger side only.
If there was a known bad production run, there would certainly be a TSB or a STAR case and I couldn't find either.

To be clear, I'm not saying your entirely wrong. I'm just saying the data doesn't seem to exist to substantiate your claim.
 

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MIne had nothing to do with the recall and my VIN was not part of that. The rear control arm bushing failed on mine. Bad rubber production.
If there was a known bad production run, there would certainly be a TSB or a STAR case and I couldn't find either.

To be clear, I'm not saying your entirely wrong. I'm just saying the data doesn't seem to exist to substantiate your claim.
My dealer knew the problem immediately and told me they had been replacing a lot of them on the drive side only due to bushing failures when I took mine in for the repair.

You always seem to have a problem with anything I post. Now I remember why I ignored you the first time around. Won't turn it off a second time.
 

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My dealer knew the problem immediately and told me they had been replacing a lot of them on the drive side only due to bushing failures when I took mine in for the repair.

You always seem to have a problem with anything I post. Now I remember why I ignored you the first time around. Won't turn it off a second time.
The facts are what they are. Whether you like it or not, what your dealer told you doesn't affect the validity of my previous statement.

Your Pacifica is a very late 2018 model that was assembled on 8/2/2018 according to your signature. The OP stated they had their last control arm installed in May 2019. Even if there was a "bad production run" like you say, it's highly unlikely that any of the parts in question would've still been in circulation/active inventory nine months later for a vehicle that at that time had only been in production for just over three years. Even right now, there are still very few aftermarket options available for front control arms, so any surplus of OEM/Mopar control arms is going to be fairly small, especially considering what's happened with regard to the pandemic in the last year or so.

I think you should go back and re-read the thread that caused you to ignore me the first time with an open mind. This is not me trying to be a Richard. I sincerely feel that if you read the thread start to finish you wouldn't feel like I'm targeting you, and you would understand why I responded the way that I did back then. If you felt it was necessary to ignore me over something so trivial, that's on you. I encourage anyone else who's curious to know what this is all about to go read the thread for themselves, draw your own conclusion, and feel free to send me a PM to let me know what you think.

I admit that I can be a bit blunt at times, but I always post with good intentions. I never go out of my way to start a dispute or attack anyone on here or any other forum, unless they rattle my cage first (which is pretty rare in the first place). Even then, I at least try to stay civil & respond in a respectful manner and expect others to do the same toward me. As I've said before, we're all on the same team here.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I post here to share my experience with the community. I appreciate all input.
 
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