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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently installed an aftermarket tow hitch, 7 pin wiring harness, and a redarc brake controller.
Here is a few pictures/notes from my install. Hopefully its not too chaotic.

Purchases:
ETBC7Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires
1$92.91
LT37534Loctite Bulb, Lamp, and Electrical Connection Dielectric Grease - 0.33-Oz Tube
1$8.64

1 of: Draw-Tite 76046 Class III Round Tube Max-Frame Receiver (with 2" Square Receiver Tube Opening)
Sold by: Amazon.com Services LLC

Condition: New
$146.73​

1 of: REDARC EBRH-ACCV2 Tow-Pro Elite Controller
Sold by: RV and Auto Parts (seller profile)

Condition: New
$208.16​

1 of: Tekonsha 118712 T-One Connector Assembly w/Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite HD Module
Sold by: Amazon.com Services LLC

Condition: New
$46.46​

Note: the Tekonsha connector assembly may be a different model for your pacifica based on trim level. This is the correct one for the Limited and some others.


The receiver hitch:
Don't really have any photos, but install was fairly simple. I had one hiccup where the instructions and install video did not mention. I had a ground wire in the way. I had to add some nuts to the protruding stud that acted as a spacer through the receiver frame. I then connected the ground wire back up after the receiver was installed.
Note: My rear hands-free kick sensor only works about 10% of the time now... I have disabled it in UConnect because it only seems to open when I am done there messing with the safety chains. I considered moving the sensor but it seemed like it was going to be a big deal to move it.





Wiring:
Wiring took a lot longer than expected. Maybe 10 hours of my time. I did spend a lot of time researching and finding the correct wire to splice in to. I raised the front of the car by driving up ramps, and lifted the rear of the car with a jack, then placed on jack stands. This gave a decent amount of room to work under. You end up running 3 conductors from the front of the vehicle's battery to the back. I think it was the brake lines I ended up zip-tying most of the wires to.

For the reverse circuit, I referred to @TomB985 post about his 7 pin install. He removed the upper pillar panel (which was somewhat nerve racking). I found this was not necessary and only needed removed the spare tire/vacuum compartment. Maybe I was lucky, but it appeared the correct white/beige wire was right there staring at me. I spliced into this wire and followed tom's instructions on getting the wire to the outside.

Note: I have not actually tested to make sure this is the reverse circuit!!! I really have no need for it.





Spliced, heat-shrinked, zip tied.


Through the grommet to get the wire outside, down to the 7pin connector.


Now for the brake signal that will be an input to the brake controller. The brake signal line is dark green/white stripe coming out of one of the body control module connectors. Connector D pin 18.
There is no slack, it was difficult to reach, had to lay upside down under the steering column and cut, splice, solder, heatshrink, all overhead. Guess I didn't take a picture after I heatshrinked.
(Later I figured out I need to put a diode in-line between this splice and my brake controller, more on this later)




I ran 4 large gauge wires through the firewall. You could get away with only 2, for power in, brake out and find a ground elsewhere inside. But I ran a 3rd for the ground straight to battery, and a 4th for future use. This was spare wire I had, you may need to buy this. I finally got to use some spare wire I have kept in the garage for 10 years.
I really botched this up, I used a drill to go through the rubber grommet which I think was a bad idea, totally ripped up the grommet seal, then I botched it up again with putting RTV all over it to try to reseal. I would recommend some other method.
Pro tip: Grease your wires as you push/pull them through, makes it a ton easier.
Sorry these photos are upside down. Remember I was working on my head.





The wiring kit includes circuit breakers. I really need a way to mount these securely somewhere. I don't want a +12V terminal dangling around in the engine compartment. I wrapped in masking tape, then later switched to electrical tape.



Pics of completed 7pin connector





I spent too much time trying to make it look super clean back there. It will now be a hassle to take off the undercarraige shield as you will have to take off the connector too.


Brake Controller:
For those not familiary with the REDARC brake controller. Its a hidden/remote mounted controller with only a small clean dial on your dash.
I spent way too much time trying to figure the best mounting spot for this. I ended up getting frustrated and ended up in this spot:






I have the EVTS option on my Pacifica. This has a little button on the dash. I have no idea why this button is needed, and have never used it. The hole drilled for it happened to be the same same needed for the dial. So i tucked the EVTS button behind the dash and replaced it with the REDARC dial.



I have found out that the REDARC controller will also output on the brake signal line when you manually trigger the trailer brakes (so it will cause the brake lights to illuminate). Well the Pacifica does not like that and displays an error message (ABS i think) when you do this. So, following the instructions of the brake controller, add a diode in-line between the brake controller and the brake signal wire. Just make sure you get the direction right and have the arrow pointed towards the brake controller.
After the diode install, no more errors from the car.

Hope this info helps someone.
 
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