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Haven't even done brakes on my wife's 2013 Jeep Patriot ?... I know the Pacifica are much heavier but I think it's going to be quite some time before we are looking at brakes
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well for some early 2017’s that have been driven ( 3 yrs now ) some dealers I’m sure have tried to sell the whole brake inspection / brakes are close to being replaced blanket statement.
 

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Our Camry Hybrid had 77,000 miles on it and wasn't close to needing brakes. A lot depends on the driver. I tend to use the regeneration feature far more than my wife who tends to brake late and hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah my 2018 I just put the 20’s back on them 2 weeks ago ( 18 inch winter tires and oem rims ) and the brakes look brand new . I haven’t turned 40000 kms yet . But am impressed with regeneration braking and using tranny . Pretty impressive since all ever heard was how previous cans eat thru brakes .
 

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After sledge hammering my winter tires off (they were rusted to the hubs) I noticed on my 2018 the calipers were quite rusty. I don't remember my Sienna having such rusty calipers - especially after two winters. I wonder if they used cheaper metal or coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rusty callipers , have no idea . What do you torque the lugs too ? Do you use a impact or tighten by hand . I usually put a smidge of grease so when it sets on hub water does t sit . Oh the joys of winter / seasonal driving ..aka the rust effect . That’s why I looked at trackhawk and got acr-e viper and Pacifica for daily driver .
 

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Calipers (on most vehicles) commonly show some rust, particularly if the wheels/brakes were still wet when the vehicle is parked (such as after driving in wet conditions, or after car washing). The rust is typically a light coating which get scrubbed off the rotors in the caliper contact areas almost immediately once driving (and braking) is resumed.

Don't allow your wheels to become frozen to the hubs again. Utilize an "Anti-Seize Compound" like this: Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant ... Carefully brush it on the FULL EXTENT of the hubs, prior to remounting the wheels. It works!
 

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Any grease will work in fact . A coating on the hub and a coating on inside rim and your set . Just hand tighten the nuts accordingly and follow tightening sequence with weight of the van off the hub axis . Then after a week recheck torque ?
 

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Any grease will work in fact . A coating on the hub and a coating on inside rim and your set . Just hand tighten the nuts accordingly and follow tightening sequence with weight of the van off the hub axis . Then after a week recheck torque ?
I have read on many sites that you should NOT apply ANY lubricant to wheel lug studs. Doing so allows the lug nuts to be over-torqued since the lug nuts spin more easily. The torque specs for the lug nuts is based on the studs being free of dirt, oil, grease, rust, etc. Over tightening the lug nuts can result in warped rotors and early brake pad wear.
 

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I have read on many sites that you should NOT apply ANY lubricant to wheel lug studs. Doing so allows the lug nuts to be over-torqued since the lug nuts spin more easily. The torque specs for the lug nuts is based on the studs being free of dirt, oil, grease, rust, etc. Over tightening the lug nuts can result in warped rotors and early brake pad wear.
Anti-seize compound is not applied to the studs, only to the full contact surface of the hub. Furthermore, lug nuts should always be torqued to the manufacturer's specified torque using a reliable/calibrated torque wrench and following the specified torque sequence. Air-impact wrenches (even with torque sticks) can potentially significantly over-torque the lug nuts, which can result in warped rotors, as well as stretching the studs which weakens them.
 
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