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2020 Chrysler Pacifica, Touring S, Black
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I took a pic of my air filter for your other thread, and I noticed my coolant is also right below the min line
Funny, almost identical level as mine.
I have found that coolant at the min line when it is cold is fine. If I add coolant when cold above the min line and drive for a while, next time I check cold it's back to min line. Checking while engine is hot, coolant should be near the max line.
Important consider engine temperature when checking, for sure. I check mine when it’s cold for consistency. It’s fine right now, but I had just filled it up to max only a week ago before it hit the minimum line again. That’s where the concern comes from, if that makes sense.
 

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I wouldn't fill it to the max when its cold. Remember when the system is pressurized and hot the coolant takes up more space.
 
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If there's a moderator out there please close this thread I can't take much more of this guy's negativity and bad advice. God forbid someone listens to him
I am "Following" this thread (per button on top right corner of screen), so I hope the administrator does not close it. I would recommend instead that perhaps you and SWPacLim "Ignore" each other for the sake of everyone else trying to focus on this important issue. Many thanks, and all the best.
 
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Well, if any thread ran over its course and devolved into a complete mess it is this one.
I'm not a fan of bans or warnings, this forum is hopefully populated by adults, but I want to remind everyone that the ground rules here are stricter than on Twitter.
This is not a fanboy forum, it is OK to be critical of Chrysler. It is also OK to disagree and argue in a good faith. It is not OK to be rude or dismissive to another member while doing it.
 

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Thread is open again. There's a lot of good info on here that people are relying on to get a resolution. Both members are on time out until 12/14. Hopefully they'll play nice when they come back. If not they'll go bye bye permanently. Please keep the posts specific to the issues in this thread. Any off topic bickering will result in deleted posts. Any deleted posts will result in a temporary time out. Thank you for your understanding. We now return you to your previously scheduled pertinent broadcast. Beep boop.
 

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The min/max levels are for when the engine is off and cold.
Agree. I think they ought to have been marked "Hot" and "Cold" vs "Max" and "Min".
 

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Just curious if all of these engine issues involve bank 1 (closest to the firewall on the Pacificas)? I have read in several different places about various issues with the new Pentastar engines and it seems to me to always involve bank 1 which includes cylinders 1,3,5. Does anyone have experience with a failure in bank 2?
 

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Yes I did, because his vehicle needs this expensive repair. So it was $500 now its $800? You have no idea what you're talking about. No quality shop will charge you $800 to put in a modern engine. Do some research, call some shops.



You need to buy better cars lol.



Independent shops rate labor by the hour too. All quality shops use a book rate for jobs, thats the only way they can make money. Why would they charge $500 to replace an engine when they can charge $500 for a brake job? I'm not taking my vehicle to some guy who works in their driveway or an alley, this is not some $1,500 beater car.

Right now his car isn't exhibiting symptoms that will hurt him on a trade in. He can not make the repair, trade it in for a good price and move on with a new, better car that won't have this issue and won't have potentially more issues down the line. He's not going to get a salvage trade in. Its not only what the cheapest action is, its what will deliver the least headaches.



Thats not being positive, its being delusional. If his van needs a new engine and he wants it done properly by a shop that will stand by and guarantee their work, thats a $4-$5k job minimum. Thats a fact. He can put that $4-5k into this car and roll the dice on a vehicle that we know doesnt have a great reputation for reliability and its already higher mileage. IMO 100k miles on a Chrysler Pacifica is like 250k miles on a Toyota. If I were faced with that sort of repair on any car, and I could dump it before I had to make the repair...I would.
My 2017 Pacifica limited in the span of 48 hours had multiple misfire codes, CEL and no other symptoms. Took it to the dealer, and I was told a new engine is needed. Dealer wanted 10k, my mechanic put in a motor for $5780 with a one year parts and labor warranty. Definitely better, but as the original owner and someone that made sure the vehicle had all the maintenance, this sucks to say the least. I was told I could get at least 200k on this engine.
 

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My 2017 Pacifica limited in the span of 48 hours had multiple misfire codes, CEL and no other symptoms. Took it to the dealer, and I was told a new engine is needed. Dealer wanted 10k, my mechanic put in a motor for $5780 with a one year parts and labor warranty. Definitely better, but as the original owner and someone that made sure the vehicle had all the maintenance, this sucks to say the least. I was told I could get at least 200k on this engine.
What a nightmare. I’m so glad you found aa MUCH more affordable means of repair! I guess I’m fortunate that I have a 100k mike warranty, but I don’t expect I’ll keep this van past that lol.
 

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Just curious if all of these engine issues involve bank 1 (closest to the firewall on the Pacificas)? I have read in several different places about various issues with the new Pentastar engines and it seems to me to always involve bank 1 which includes cylinders 1,3,5. Does anyone have experience with a failure in bank 2?
Mine is cylinder 1. Chysler knows about this issue. Does anyone here know a good class action attorney?

@ChryslerCares @ChryslerDoesntCare
 

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I'm hopping into this thread as an owner of a 2018 Pacifica with 74K miles....looking at a new engine. Here's my timeline -
Sep 2021
1st visit Rough idle, rough start. Cylinder 4 misfire, replaced coil packs and spark plugs. Several plugs had corrosion on them.
2nd visit - Engine light back on, replaced aux battery
3rd visit - Engine light back on, mechanic did some kind of clean out in the exhaust? No idea what it was, not car smart. Didn't resolve issue. Car began to overheat, coolant gone.

Oct 2021 -
Dealer diagnoses a warped cylinder head on cylinder 4. In the shop 2 weeks. Leaves the shop, light stays off for 3 weeks.

Nov 2021 -
Light back on, dealer claims this time it's an EGR cooler mixing with exhaust and getting coolant in the cylinder creating a "goo." They replace EGR cooler, does not resolve the problem. Dealer is now saying that I might have a crack in the block and could need a new engine. They claim they are all unrelated issues, but its all on the same cylinder and presenting the same way. I'm furious a car with 74K miles could need a new engine. Reading so many posts online with the SAME issue, adding mine to the list
 

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All right, with so many complaints of the same failure, now it's time to be really concerned that there is a systemic problem with Chrysler's Pentastar engine. I hope everyone with the issue files a report with NHTSA and writes a letter to Chrysler. Contact info s/b near the back of the owner's manual. This sounds like it could be class-action lawsuit material.
We’re experiencing this same issue as well. 2017 with 69k miles 😞
 

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We’re experiencing this same issue as well. 2017 with 69k miles 😞
Hi Anne. Just curious, are you aware if the coolant in your Pacifica has ever been topped off or replaced?
 

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Lynn:

Coincidence and unrelated... Did they want to sell you a bridge too? I think it's time to have your lawyer call the owner and ask for a fact finding discussion in the hopes of avoiding litigation. Then you need a competent mechanic, peferable somebody well certified, to attend and debunk. It might cost a grand, but I'll bet you get your money back and a new engine.

And is this a chrysler dealer? Perhaps the letter should request the regional dealer rep attend too.
 

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I am in a similar sounding sinking ship! Any update on your vehicle? Im right before authorizing the engine tear down and trying to figure out what to do.
After going round and round for MONTHS, @ChryslerCares got involved... Within a week dealership got me a loaner car, ad had me authorize an engine teardown... I told them I would authorize a long a they new I had no intention of paying for it...

2 weeks later they got to the teardown, And determined that the engine had a crack in the cylinder wall in the number 3 cylinder. They told me the entire engine would need to be replaced.... and that it "should" be covered by powertrain.

It took them 2 weeks to get the engine abs another week to install it.

I paid $100 deductable, ad drive away with it that day... and have had zero problems since.

while I'm grateful to have a brand new engine in my van, it's almost inexcusable to have a total engine replacement under 75k miles...

But this chapter of the story is FINALLY over, after 4 months of not having my vehicle... sigh...
 

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Had to be a flaw in the original cast...
 

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interesting thread...i read the first few pages, and then came to the end.

anyways 2017 with 60+ miles on it fully serviced

Wife would complain that it would randomly flash CEL and stay off, and drove ok.....sometimes she said it made weird surging feelings.
WHenever i drove it, it seemed fine.
The i would start to remote start it and listen to the motor and there would be a slight tick but almost like a pulley sound from front of motor but would go away.
ANyways recently we had FULL CEL staying on and dealer found P0303

They did coils, plugs and injectors to test and still had code.

they did compression test and leak down test coming to the conclusion that the valves dont hold the pressure and are planning on replacing my head on cylinder 3. They said it was measured and not in spec. Is this by bad design or casting I dunno. After reading this thread i am concerned about do i have a cracked block also. I have MAX care and a very good SA so i havent had any ignorance or flack from the dealer....yet. I really want to stay on top of this
 
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