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I am on my third battery heater and it has not reported any errors since early July. I think I got a new one in May and then another one in June. I think lemon-law says that if they fix the same problem 3 or 4 times in the first 18 months of ownership then I can give it back full price, so they wanted to make sure they did it right for the third heater.

Though I am having the "refresh mode" gas-only problem, so maybe it is not heating and just not telling me :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So...this morning I got the lovely “Service Hybrid Electrical System” message on my cluster. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it’s getting a code related to the battery coolant sensor. Needless to say, I’ve left it there again. I sure hope it doesn’t take another 17 days to fix.




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So...this morning I got the lovely “Service Hybrid Electrical System” message on my cluster. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it’s getting a code related to the battery coolant sensor. Needless to say, I’ve left it there again. I sure hope it doesn’t take another 17 days to fix.




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Hi smity84,

Sorry to hear about this! If you need further assistance during your dealership appointment please send us a PM with your VIN and let me know.

Andrea
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So...this morning I got the lovely “Service Hybrid Electrical System” message on my cluster. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it’s getting a code related to the battery coolant sensor. Needless to say, I’ve left it there again. I sure hope it doesn’t take another 17 days to fix.




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Well, I was able to pick up our car last night. They diagnosed the problem as air pockets within the battery coolant system, solved by bleeding the coolant. They think it happened when they filled up the coolant in fixing the battery heater. I drove it home 35 miles last night and didn’t have any issues. Hopefully it was a simple, albeit inconvenient, issue.


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I thought I'd add a little troubleshooting info to this thread, since I'm having my Electric Coolant Heater (ECH) replaced right now. My MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, a.k.a. Check Engine Light) came on and I had to take it in--but, the MIL had nothing to do with the dead ECH; the MIL codes were all about UConnect issues.

Unfortunately, I had noticed that I didn't have heat when in battery-only (electric-only) mode if the engine had not run at any point, so I asked them to look into that. I live in Seattle where we have the perfect weather for maximizing the use of the ECH, it's rarely cold enough to force a start of the engine for heat alone, but rarely warm enough to not need some heat (usually 4-14˚C [~40-55˚F] about 9 months out of the year). Incidentally, I wish I could set the heated seat/wheel to come on automatically in that temperature range: you still want warm buns when it's 10˚C.

One thing I noticed was that sometimes I'd be driving down the freeway freezing my butt off with no heat (auto or manual) and yet, if I opened the Hybrid Information display, it would show zero kW going to climate. Oddly, at other times when I had no heat, it would show 5-7 kW going to climate but there was still no heat. I played around with the heated seats and wheel to see if they were responsible for the energy draw, but toggling them on and off didn't change the climate power draw. Nevertheless, I would say that not having any heat and yet showing no power draw for heat is a pretty clear finding that the ECH is on the fritz. So, if you are suspecting your ECH, keep an eye out for that condition.

As well, you can monitor the coolant temperature on the dash display. I could see that if I goosed it and got the engine to kick on, the coolant temp would rocket from 12˚C to as high as ~80˚C--if it stayed on long enough (usually I'd get more like 50˚C--just below the temp where I'd get any real heat--before the engine would shut down). But when the engine shut off, regardless of the power draw shown for the climate, the coolant would cool right down to 40-ish and I'd lose all my heat.

Also, my remote start stopped working when the ECH croaked. Again, it's not cold enough most mornings to need the engine for remote start. My JuiceBox EVSE actually showed power draw when I'd remote start before the ECH died. After the ECH died however, the remote start would kick on, lights would flash, the EVSE would show a very small load, and then it would all shut down. The dash just said, "Remote Start Cancelled" with no indication of why. So, if your remote start doesn't seem to work, the ECH could be to blame (it could also be that any time there is a MIL code, remote start will auto-cancel...not sure).
 

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I thought I'd add a little troubleshooting info to this thread, since I'm having my Electric Coolant Heater (ECH) replaced right now. My MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, a.k.a. Check Engine Light) came on and I had to take it in--but, the MIL had nothing to do with the dead ECH; the MIL codes were all about UConnect issues.

Unfortunately, I had noticed that I didn't have heat when in battery-only (electric-only) mode if the engine had not run at any point, so I asked them to look into that. I live in Seattle where we have the perfect weather for maximizing the use of the ECH, it's rarely cold enough to force a start of the engine for heat alone, but rarely warm enough to not need some heat (usually 4-14˚C [~40-55˚F] about 9 months out of the year). Incidentally, I wish I could set the heated seat/wheel to come on automatically in that temperature range: you still want warm buns when it's 10˚C.

One thing I noticed was that sometimes I'd be driving down the freeway freezing my butt off with no heat (auto or manual) and yet, if I opened the Hybrid Information display, it would show zero kW going to climate. Oddly, at other times when I had no heat, it would show 5-7 kW going to climate but there was still no heat. I played around with the heated seats and wheel to see if they were responsible for the energy draw, but toggling them on and off didn't change the climate power draw. Nevertheless, I would say that not having any heat and yet showing no power draw for heat is a pretty clear finding that the ECH is on the fritz. So, if you are suspecting your ECH, keep an eye out for that condition.

As well, you can monitor the coolant temperature on the dash display. I could see that if I goosed it and got the engine to kick on, the coolant temp would rocket from 12˚C to as high as ~80˚C--if it stayed on long enough (usually I'd get more like 50˚C--just below the temp where I'd get any real heat--before the engine would shut down). But when the engine shut off, regardless of the power draw shown for the climate, the coolant would cool right down to 40-ish and I'd lose all my heat.

Also, my remote start stopped working when the ECH croaked. Again, it's not cold enough most mornings to need the engine for remote start. My JuiceBox EVSE actually showed power draw when I'd remote start before the ECH died. After the ECH died however, the remote start would kick on, lights would flash, the EVSE would show a very small load, and then it would all shut down. The dash just said, "Remote Start Cancelled" with no indication of why. So, if your remote start doesn't seem to work, the ECH could be to blame (it could also be that any time there is a MIL code, remote start will auto-cancel...not sure).


Whenever there is check engine light, remote start does not work. It’s in manual. So it’s normal for remote start not to work in this situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I thought I'd add a little troubleshooting info to this thread, since I'm having my Electric Coolant Heater (ECH) replaced right now. My MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light, a.k.a. Check Engine Light) came on and I had to take it in--but, the MIL had nothing to do with the dead ECH; the MIL codes were all about UConnect issues.

Unfortunately, I had noticed that I didn't have heat when in battery-only (electric-only) mode if the engine had not run at any point, so I asked them to look into that. I live in Seattle where we have the perfect weather for maximizing the use of the ECH, it's rarely cold enough to force a start of the engine for heat alone, but rarely warm enough to not need some heat (usually 4-14˚C [~40-55˚F] about 9 months out of the year). Incidentally, I wish I could set the heated seat/wheel to come on automatically in that temperature range: you still want warm buns when it's 10˚C.

One thing I noticed was that sometimes I'd be driving down the freeway freezing my butt off with no heat (auto or manual) and yet, if I opened the Hybrid Information display, it would show zero kW going to climate. Oddly, at other times when I had no heat, it would show 5-7 kW going to climate but there was still no heat. I played around with the heated seats and wheel to see if they were responsible for the energy draw, but toggling them on and off didn't change the climate power draw. Nevertheless, I would say that not having any heat and yet showing no power draw for heat is a pretty clear finding that the ECH is on the fritz. So, if you are suspecting your ECH, keep an eye out for that condition.

As well, you can monitor the coolant temperature on the dash display. I could see that if I goosed it and got the engine to kick on, the coolant temp would rocket from 12˚C to as high as ~80˚C--if it stayed on long enough (usually I'd get more like 50˚C--just below the temp where I'd get any real heat--before the engine would shut down). But when the engine shut off, regardless of the power draw shown for the climate, the coolant would cool right down to 40-ish and I'd lose all my heat.

Also, my remote start stopped working when the ECH croaked. Again, it's not cold enough most mornings to need the engine for remote start. My JuiceBox EVSE actually showed power draw when I'd remote start before the ECH died. After the ECH died however, the remote start would kick on, lights would flash, the EVSE would show a very small load, and then it would all shut down. The dash just said, "Remote Start Cancelled" with no indication of why. So, if your remote start doesn't seem to work, the ECH could be to blame (it could also be that any time there is a MIL code, remote start will auto-cancel...not sure).


When I first took mine in they told me that they were getting trouble codes related to the radio. After about a week they figured out that it was the ECH. This was after they replaced my 12v battery thinking that was the issue. It’s strange that it’s this hard to diagnose. I guess it’s just new technology.


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So what happens if you drive without electric battery heat when cold. Does it damage anything? Or is performance/battery range reduced? Won't the battery heat itself eventually if is used to power the car?

Pete
 

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I have a 2018 PacHy that i picked up in october which is currently in the shop for the battery heater failure. Luckily the dealership had a replacement in stock... so is this going to be a reoccurring issue for the life of these vehicles?
 

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I have a 2018 PacHy that i picked up in october which is currently in the shop for the battery heater failure. Luckily the dealership had a replacement in stock... so is this going to be a reoccurring issue for the life of these vehicles?
It does appear to be a common problem. The earliest people to experience the problem may get a new replacement unit of the same part number revision (same design) but I am sure Chrysler is putting a lot of pressure on the supplier to get the root cause fixed because warranty repairs eats their profit. Your service manager may be able to tell you if they replaced with an identical part number or a unit with a later revision than the original.
 

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That is a good idea. Here I was hoping they would have fixed that for 2018 model but maybe they are still trying to figure it out.
 

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Our 2018 is in the shop for a check engine light. Not clear what the issue is, but it came on while it was sitting in the driveway, ICE off, trying to heat the cabin from the battery. Drove fine with the light on.

There is apparently a “rapid response” service action for the coolant heater, as the computer at the service writer’s desk flagged that for work immediately. Sounds like they might have gotten a bad batch of these parts and they are all going to have to come out.
 

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Our 2018 is in the shop for a check engine light. Not clear what the issue is, but it came on while it was sitting in the driveway, ICE off, trying to heat the cabin from the battery. Drove fine with the light on.

There is apparently a “rapid response” service action for the coolant heater, as the computer at the service writer’s desk flagged that for work immediately. Sounds like they might have gotten a bad batch of these parts and they are all going to have to come out.
Hi orangeandwhite,

We are sorry to hear that your 2018 Pacifica is in service at this time. Please send us your VIN, mileage, and dealer so that we can provide additional assistance while at the dealer.

Darlene
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Took my new van in for the first time for the cruise control recall. In the detailed print out it says 2017-2018 RU battery coolant heater con... 18-026 customer declined"does this mean the previous owner refused the replacement of the battery coolant heat?
 

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Took my new van in for the first time for the cruise control recall. In the detailed print out it says 2017-2018 RU battery coolant heater con... 18-026 customer declined"does this mean the previous owner refused the replacement of the battery coolant heat?
Sounds like they dont have parts or didnt plan appropriately for your service appointment ie: loaners, staff scheduling, or promised times, etc.

If they write "customer declined" on a current Repair Order and you have no knowledge of declining the job its generally that it is worded this way for the warranty department. If you dont have time this visit you are allowed to say next time for Service Bulletins. Recalls are forced on you on any visit and can detain your vehicle until they are complete even if your in a rush.

Heres the offical information regarding the coolant heater bulletin - Its for phev built on or before Oct 30, 2017.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yk4vrd8uo2k8gfb/08-034-18 electric coolant heater recall.pdf?dl=0
 

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We took our van in for the recall repair today, and the dealership wants to keep the van over the weekend until they have parts to do the battery heater fix. We're planning to decline and take it back next week sometime—they're not even sure they can give us a loaner that would fit our kids.
 

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We took our van in for the recall repair today, and the dealership wants to keep the van over the weekend until they have parts to do the battery heater fix. We're planning to decline and take it back next week sometime—they're not even sure they can give us a loaner that would fit our kids.
How did this work out?
 

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Hi,
I own a 2017 Pacifica Hybrid Platinum. Except for the original recall related to the power inverter, it had been pretty much flawless. That is, until I brought it to the dealer and allowed them to do the battery coolant heater connector recall. Not too long after they did that recall, I started to have problems with guess what? Yes, the battery heater. I heard some strange noises under the hood, pulled over and opened the hood and saw the coolant in the batter heater coolant jug boiling violently. Li-ion batteries should never operate at the temperature of boiling coolant (100+C).

I was on vacation with my family at the time, and the check engine light was not on, so we continued our trip. A couple weeks later, the check engine light came on indicating a problem with the batter coolant heater. I brought it to the dealer (Chriswell Chrysler in Gaithersburg, MD) for repair twice. I explained how the coolant was boiling in the system and showed them my video of this happening. The first time it was diagnosed as having an air bubble in the coolant and of course, the light came back on shortly after we got the vehicle back.

The second time, after perplexing the dealer for some time, they said the battery coolant heater had to be replaced because it was on when it should not be. It took a long time to get this feedback because they only call you when they want to, and treat customers as though the car belongs to them. But of course that was the problem - the heater was causing the coolant to boil and run the battery at 100+C when it should normally be under 60C.

I work in this industry and know that Li-Ion batteries are not able to operate at these high temperatures without serious degradation. Since my vehicle battery has been operating at these high temperatures for so long, the battery will have degraded and I'm asking Chrysler to replace the battery under warranty. Otherwise, a couple years from now, after normal wear and tear, the compromised battery will hold a much lower charge and Chrysler will not replace it then because they will say it is normal wear and tear. Chrysler needs to live up to this problem and replace the battery now and under warranty.

I will post the video of the boiling coolant in the jug if I can figure out to post a video. For now, here's a frame of the video showing the low coolant because much of the coolant had already boiled off due to the high temperatures.

42508
 
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