No ESS. Date of manufacture was September 2016. New battery is working great BTW. No more door unavailable messages.Thanks for giving me an idea of a battery that might work. I'm expecting that mine will need replaced sometime. Date of van manufacture? (on driver's door edge) ESS?
I didn't do that step and was able to do the change no problem. I assume you would want to do that to make it easier to get the old battery out since the prefuse assembly is cumbersome with not much slack.In step 5 (has the #2 in the diagram), it says to remove the cables from the prefuse assembly. How do you do that? In the photo with the green arrow, something needs to be pressed to release the cables?
I saw a caution (not sure if in this forum) about storing these jumpers in hot cars. I don't remember if it is a hazard or it just drains the battery quickly.If you are in the no start situation and unable to get a jump start, a good piece of equipment to have on hand is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HY7SFJ/?coliid=I1RLTRLXRSQAVV&colid=319025MVD9EZD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
A portable jump start.
I believe @m0ebius604 recommended it in the hybrid section.
Another reason to have this immediately available is, if your battery is dead and the emergency brake is on (it is electric) you won't even be able to push the van without supplying power to turn off the emergency brake.
This thread is supposed to provide information. If the information is incorrect or needs additional input, please add to it to help others out. :smile2:
With a gas Pacifica battery failure, a replacement battery (or with ESS possibly an additional battery) may get someone back on the road and can be a relatively easy and quick fix if the standard type of battery is available somewhere. If I were told that a battery under warranty was on back order and another battery was available, I would probably buy an available battery that would work and not worry about the prorated part of the battery warranty. It wouldn't take long to spend more than that amount on a rental if a loaner wasn't provided through the dealer or the extended warranty.
Thanks @Longtimemopar for trying to find out the information to replace a battery yourself.
@II Kings 9:20 used a Mopar replacement 730 CCA battery for the main battery in a 2017 gas Pacifica under warranty.
A hybrid Pacifica battery is a different story and there are many other threads for hybrid battery issues.
Thanks for reminding owners to check their manuals.
I saw a caution (not sure if in this forum) about storing these jumpers in hot cars. I don't remember if it is a hazard or it just drains the battery quickly.
This thread from a few years ago has some interesting comments, but they seem to be mostly for small (flashlight) batteries, but one post where someone tested temperatures on a car in the sun for 3 hours was very interesting -- cloth seats - 138 degrees! Anybody leave li ions in car during summer?
This is a chatty article about leaving items in hot cars -- https://www.businessinsider.com/never-keep-these-your-car-on-a-hot-day-2018-8 --- they note that Apple says after 95 degrees, their batteries can permanently degrade. (those of you who keep water bottles in the car, see #3.......)
Anyone have more specific information about safely storing these chargers? I would guess under floor if the Stow & Go seat is up is the best.
Thats something I cant offer.
You said it. There are untold millions or even billions of lithium based devices in the world.I was more concerned about hazard than failure. There are untold millions, if not billions of the things around, so to expect zero failures is unrealistic, but we don't want to deliberately go into a danger zone.
Agreed that driving is one of the most risky routine things we do. But the fact that we are engaging in one risky behavior from whatever motivation does not imply that we should gratuitously add another risk on top of it --- I was thinking more along the lines of added hazards that we do have some more control over than other drivers.[EDITED]
.....So choosing to ride in a 16kW lithium powered vehicle and being worried about a lithium booster pack seems a little counter intuitive IMO....
Everyone has to decide for themselves the risk.Agreed that driving is one of the most risky routine things we do. But the fact that we are engaging in one risky behavior from whatever motivation does not imply that we should gratuitously add another risk on top of it --- I was thinking more along the lines of added hazards that we do have some more control over than other drivers.
I have a healthy respect for battery power. Early in my career, I worked with locomotives (up to 3600 HP V16's) and the batteries that could cold crank those diesel power plants. And in engineering school, in a new lab with DC circuits powered by a battery bank, a mislabeled receptacle led us to create a dead short -- the wires melted before the circuit breaker could react. I know how fast and powerfully batteries can discharge in a dangerous manner.
So, despite the decades that elapsed since those experiences, I remain respectful of the high energy content of these portable power packs. RT[F]M is a constant refrain, and overlooking storage cautions is an easy mistake.* But I am somewhat reassured that the lack of headlines and consumer alerts are an empirical marker that these booster units are relatively safe in a normal consumer environment.
* What is the most frequent lie in real life? "I have read and agree to the terms / conditions / license" Sidebar: An old but still relevant primer in what you may have agreed to is at
... just this week, the NYPD had to pull thousands of bodycams because one started smoking (no injuries.) But those batteries don't really concern me.Everyone has to decide for themselves the risk.
The materials are manufactured with North American safety standards and comply to our laws requirements.. and as you point out "the lack of headlines" should have a some merrit considering the rampant abuse of the millions of lithium devices out there.
It seems our esteemed judicial system IS letting those restrictions on class action suits and forced arbitration stand in many cases............. Agreed about the terms and conditions. If you want to participate, you must accept. Although I am skeptical how some of the most unreasonable terms and conditions would hold up in court - I am no lawyer. :|
hmmm, I wonder if that battery is an AGM battery. His van doesn't have ESS. Judging by the price, I think it might not be. The AGM batteries seem to be more expensive than a regular lead/acid battery. But the big starting AGM battery does seem to be available at many locations. Finding the smaller ESS battery seems to be more difficult. Tried doing different kinds of searches for it and I think the only result is from Forum member @sjambok. I went to the Batteries Plus site and it doesn't seem to mention an ESS battery.I just replaced the battery today on my 17 Touring L which was a rental in its prior duty (I bought it with 46k miles earlier this month). I went with an Interstate at Costco at $143.99. The procedure was pretty cut and dry- I was worried about the intake thingy but it came off without a problem. 10mm on all the nuts.
The van had died a week after I bought it. Since I knew the van was on the dealer lot since May I put it on a tender until fully charged but that did not seem to help as it was very inconsistent with doors opening when the ignition was off and the horn was muffled when setting the alarm from the keyfob. It also had a hard time turning over at start.
Non-ESS vans don't have an AGM battery.hmmm, I wonder if that battery is an AGM battery. His van doesn't have ESS. Judging by the price, I think it might not be. The AGM batteries seem to be more expensive than a regular lead/acid battery. But the big starting AGM battery does seem to be available at many locations. Finding the smaller ESS battery seems to be more difficult. Tried doing different kinds of searches for it and I think the only result is from Forum member @sjambok. I went to the Batteries Plus site and it doesn't seem to mention an ESS battery.
As I didn't see ESS AUX replacement battery specifics here I wanted to share what I found. This thread helped a lot when my recently purchased 2017 Pacifica (gas) displayed the "Start/Stop Not Ready - Service..." alert during the first month. I don't have a manufacturer warranty so I removed the AUX battery (see pics in thread above - thanks!) and local Autozone confirmed it was bad. The van runs with the bad ESS battery - the Start/Stop just won't work. It just didn't look right to try it without any ESS battery so I put it back in the van for now and ordered a new battery. If you really hate ESS and don't mind the alert on your dash could you just leave the dead one in? It's AGM so it shouldn't leak but that didn't seem wise.I would still like someone that has the service manual to tell the exact steps for replacing the battery/batteries. It looks like there is one nut that holds the 'power distribution center' to the battery. Do you remove the ESS battery before the start battery? Or the other way around? Will the Pacifica run without the ESS battery? What is a replacement for the ESS battery?
Mopar battery part number BB0H7730AB $173. ( CONVENTIONAL, Main, 730 Amp, 750 CCA, 730 Amp) was put in my 2017 non ESS van as a replacement for OEM battery that recently failed under warranty.anyone know the cost of the original equipment battery?