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In May 2019 the replacement battery died suddenly without warning. It was able to be jumped, tested, and replaced by the dealer (since it was 4 months old and had probably sat on the shelf too long). Even though I didn't have to replace the battery myself, whenever I looked at the battery, I didn't see how it would easily be changed so I looked for a video today when another forum member mentioned trying find out how to replace it without going to the dealer. I have no desire to do this myself, but it was an informative video so I thought I would post it for those interested. This is for a gas Pacifica.
https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2017_Chrysler_Pacifica_Touring_3.6L_V6/battery/replace_battery
@Longtimemopar, I thought you might like more added to the thread.
 

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Here is some useful info for others to use...
the battery for our GAS 2017 just bit the dust throwing the infamous “Service Shifter” error and weakly chirping lock/unlock. I tried to trace down useful info on the battery, but it doesn’t offer much to go on... I called up my local dealers and got a price of $140, but backordered (regular dealer)... maybe two days... or other dealer (scum, won’t let near vehicle) that had one for $195, available and date coded 05/19 (2 months old). No choice, needed now.

NEW Battery says it is PART#: BB0H7730AB and GROUP SIZE: H7 (730 CCA, 80Ah, RC 140 mins (SAE)).

Perhaps that is useful for identifying a non-desperate dealer replacement? It is essentially a top post battery in a rectangular form factor. The two 10mm bolts farthest out and facing up hold the wedge mechanism that clamps the posts. I attached my trickle charger (memory preservation) to nearby spots and started removal. The battery strap also is held by a 10mm bolt which is caged, so no worries about losing it. I found I could not remove it with that battery protection cross brace in-place, so I removed the three 10mm bolts that hold it in and unclipped the hood release cable from the clip. Used the battery handle and remove/replace and reassemble. Simple process that just looks far more complicated. I didn’t mention it previously, but of course... remove the air cleaner duct by simply pulling up on the front to unclip and then pull forward to remove from assembly...place to the side. Install is just the reverse of that simple step.
Hopefully this is helpful and beneficial for others!
 

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I replaced the batter on my 2017 Pacifica gas (not ESS) this weekend. On Saturday I got in, pressed the start button, and the starter turned over very slowly for about 5 seconds before it started. I shut it off, tried again, and got nothing. So after a trip to O'Reilly (in my wife's car) and $159 I had another battery. Relatively simple process with the service manual instructions posted earlier in the thread. I did remove the quick-disconnect cables from the pre-fuse box instead of trying to rotate the pre-fuse box out of the way - just press the clip down through the black plastic slots and, while holding down, pull the cable gently towards the rear of the minivan. It doesn't take much force if you have the clips disengaged. Just a warning if you want to rotate the pre-fuse block instead of removing it - there are loose wedges under the 10mm bolt that connects the pre-fuse block to the positive terminal of the battery so if you rotate it be sure and secure or remove those wedges so they don't end up falling in (but not through, because Murphy's law is always in effect) the engine bay.
 

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We need to replace our OEM original battery on our 2017 Touring L Plus Pacifica Gas Non-ESS with over 100k miles!

Here's the info on the battery itself:
Part No. 56029635AC
CCA 730, RC 140, Ahr 80, EN 630
12V

I'd like to replace it myself and I know there's a lot of different batteries depending on the model specifics. How can I make sure I'm getting the right battery at a non-dealer? The dealer wanted to charge us >$450, yikes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
We need to replace our OEM original battery on our 2017 Touring L Plus Pacifica Gas Non-ESS with over 100k miles!

Here's the info on the battery itself:
Part No. 56029635AC
CCA 730, RC 140, Ahr 80, EN 630
12V

I'd like to replace it myself and I know there's a lot of different batteries depending on the model specifics. How can I make sure I'm getting the right battery at a non-dealer? The dealer wanted to charge us >$450, yikes!
I don't know where you are located, but maybe call another dealership. I would also do some online shopping as well as make a few phone calls. Best of luck :smile2:
Just wanted to add: a lot of the brand name auto parts stores will install a new battery for free if you can jump start it. I would definitely call first to verify. $450 is too much.
 

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We need to replace our OEM original battery on our 2017 Touring L Plus Pacifica Gas Non-ESS with over 100k miles!

Here's the info on the battery itself:
Part No. 56029635AC
CCA 730, RC 140, Ahr 80, EN 630
12V

I'd like to replace it myself and I know there's a lot of different batteries depending on the model specifics. How can I make sure I'm getting the right battery at a non-dealer? The dealer wanted to charge us >$450, yikes!
There are many auto parts stores (NAPA, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, O'Reilly Auto Parts.....) that will determine the size you need from your vehicle info. Some of the local ones to me will even change the battery in their parking lot for you and they use a "memory saver" so you don't loose any of your configured electronic settings.
 

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We need to replace our OEM original battery on our 2017 Touring L Plus Pacifica Gas Non-ESS with over 100k miles!

Here's the info on the battery itself:
Part No. 56029635AC
CCA 730, RC 140, Ahr 80, EN 630
12V

I'd like to replace it myself and I know there's a lot of different batteries depending on the model specifics. How can I make sure I'm getting the right battery at a non-dealer? The dealer wanted to charge us >$450, yikes!
If it's of any help to anyone, we went with a Deka brand battery part number 694RMF. $160 installed at a local battery place. If it's a problem i'll circle back, if you don't hear from me assume it's working great :) We chose that over a Solite brand battery $30 cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
If it's of any help to anyone, we went with a Deka brand battery part number 694RMF. $160 installed at a local battery place. If it's a problem i'll circle back, if you don't hear from me assume it's working great :) We chose that over a Solite brand battery $30 cheaper.
Sounds like you got a decent battery at a decent price. What is the "local battery place" ?
 

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Sounds like you got a decent battery at a decent price. What is the "local battery place" ?
Steven's Battery Warehouse in Severna Park outside of Baltimore, Maryland (actually closer to Annapolis).

Technically it's the wife's DD and she said they were very awesome to her, though that's not difficult after the experience at the dealer.

One followup note I noticed, the battery voltage indicator on my dash information is reading 13.6-13.7 volts (jumps back and forth), but the OEM battery was more like 14.4? Should I be concerned about this difference? Entertainment sytsem, remote start, chargers, 120v plug or anything impacted on that end? Or possible indication of alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Steven's Battery Warehouse in Severna Park outside of Baltimore, Maryland (actually closer to Annapolis).

Technically it's the wife's DD and she said they were very awesome to her, though that's not difficult after the experience at the dealer.

One followup note I noticed, the battery voltage indicator on my dash information is reading 13.6-13.7 volts (jumps back and forth), but the OEM battery was more like 14.4? Should I be concerned about this difference? Entertainment sytsem, remote start, chargers, 120v plug or anything impacted on that end? Or possible indication of alternator?
sounds like a good question for an electrical/battery expert like @stop-eject :smile2:
 

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We need to replace our OEM original battery on our 2017 Touring L Plus Pacifica Gas Non-ESS with over 100k miles!

Here's the info on the battery itself:
Part No. 56029635AC
CCA 730, RC 140, Ahr 80, EN 630
12V

I'd like to replace it myself and I know there's a lot of different batteries depending on the model specifics. How can I make sure I'm getting the right battery at a non-dealer? The dealer wanted to charge us >$450, yikes!
That is the same as my original battery, so replacement is going to be group size H7.
That price is nuts, considering OE from dealer was quoted at $140. That must be the gold glove installed price - includes a prostate massage while paying the bill.
 

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Steven's Battery Warehouse in Severna Park outside of Baltimore, Maryland (actually closer to Annapolis).

Technically it's the wife's DD and she said they were very awesome to her, though that's not difficult after the experience at the dealer.

One followup note I noticed, the battery voltage indicator on my dash information is reading 13.6-13.7 volts (jumps back and forth), but the OEM battery was more like 14.4? Should I be concerned about this difference? Entertainment sytsem, remote start, chargers, 120v plug or anything impacted on that end? Or possible indication of alternator?
I'm not a battery expert. My observations of the 12V batteries that I've had (that aren't AGM in non ESS vans) in my 2017 Pacifica were that the number of volts when new started at about 14.4V and went down as it aged. I also noticed the voltage was lower with the headlights on and then went back to normal when the headlights were off. So it wouldn't surprise me if an additional load (entertainment system, etc.) put an additional load on the battery. Check the battery volts without the extra load and see what it reads. It has been suggested in the past that if the volts were over 12V the battery should be ok. I got a reading of 8.6V (even though it was able to be jump started) when I had a dead battery in May, so I'm not surprised it was replaced.

There is another thread about an alternator issue if you are interested in reading it.
https://www.pacificaforums.com/foru...ternator-failure.html?nojs=1#goto_threadtools
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I just did a dash voltage reading: foot OFF the brake(so the engine does not start) - pressed the START button twice and scrolled to the Voltage screen. It was 12v. It seems like it has been a little over 12 in the past. I am having no issues with the van but I am wondering if the start battery is beginning to show its age. I think I might get a voltage test done at the dealership to see what they find. I really don't want my wife to have any problems when she is by herself. My son's Edge has sat for a month and was dead when I tried to start it yesterday. I used the GOOLOO GP37-Plus Jump Starter that I have been keeping in the Pacifica in case of an emergency to start the Ford. Very easy.
 

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This is not a reliable method to test the battery. Any auto parts store can ran a test for you, however Chrysler will approve a warranty replacement only when a certified dealer's tester will indicate a failure.
 

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I just did a dash voltage reading: foot OFF the brake(so the engine does not start) - pressed the START button twice and scrolled to the Voltage screen. It was 12v. It seems like it has been a little over 12 in the past. I am having no issues with the van but I am wondering if the start battery is beginning to show its age. I think I might get a voltage test done at the dealership to see what they find. I really don't want my wife to have any problems when she is by herself. My son's Edge has sat for a month and was dead when I tried to start it yesterday. I used the GOOLOO GP37-Plus Jump Starter that I have been keeping in the Pacifica in case of an emergency to start the Ford. Very easy.
It makes sense to get the battery tested if your van is over two years old and you are concerned about possible failure.
My 1st 12V battery tested under 12V (but over 11.8 or so) for awhile before it ended up being replaced after testing by the dealer (at 28 months). That battery didn't fail to start, but when tested, it failed, so I guess it was getting close. It did manage to throw some voltage codes when the van was in for something else. The 2nd battery seemed fine but failed to start one rare humid afternoon (battery only 4 months old). It was able to be jumped but was also replaced when it failed dealer tests. 3rd battery registers around 14V without headlights on at 2 months.

@Longtimemopar You might want to show your wife how the Jump Starter works and where it gets connected on the Pacifica battery / ground. Even if she doesn't want to do it, she might be able to assist someone else who is willing to help. When I had to jump start my van, I had to get out the manual to figure it out. (It would be an hour before AAA would be able to get there and my son was available with another car so it was a learning experience.) The battery in the Ford Fusion that I was jumping the Pacifica with was pretty much standard and easy to access. The Pacifica battery took a little more thought. This was the confusing part for me:

"Connect the opposite end of the negative (-) jumper
cable to the negative post near the windshield cowl
(exposed metal part of the discharged vehicle’s engine).

Do not connect the jumper cable to the negative (-) post
of the discharged battery. The resulting electrical spark
could cause the battery to explode and could result in
personal injury. Only use the specific ground point, do
not use any other exposed metal parts."

If anyone can post a photo of the "negative post near the windshield cowl" it might help others. I couldn't figure out where it was and found another place to attach the negative jumper cable and fortunately it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
It makes sense to get the battery tested if your van is over two years old and you are concerned about possible failure.
My 1st 12V battery tested under 12V (but over 11.8 or so) for awhile before it ended up being replaced after testing by the dealer (at 28 months). That battery didn't fail to start, but when tested, it failed, so I guess it was getting close. It did manage to throw some voltage codes when the van was in for something else. The 2nd battery seemed fine but failed to start one rare humid afternoon (battery only 4 months old). It was able to be jumped but was also replaced when it failed dealer tests. 3rd battery registers around 14V without headlights on at 2 months.

@Longtimemopar You might want to show your wife how the Jump Starter works and where it gets connected on the Pacifica battery / ground. Even if she doesn't want to do it, she might be able to assist someone else who is willing to help. When I had to jump start my van, I had to get out the manual to figure it out. (It would be an hour before AAA would be able to get there and my son was available with another car so it was a learning experience.) The battery in the Ford Fusion that I was jumping the Pacifica with was pretty much standard and easy to access. The Pacifica battery took a little more thought. This was the confusing part for me:

"Connect the opposite end of the negative (-) jumper
cable to the negative post near the windshield cowl
(exposed metal part of the discharged vehicle’s engine).

Do not connect the jumper cable to the negative (-) post
of the discharged battery. The resulting electrical spark
could cause the battery to explode and could result in
personal injury. Only use the specific ground point, do
not use any other exposed metal parts."

If anyone can post a photo of the "negative post near the windshield cowl" it might help others. I couldn't figure out where it was and found another place to attach the negative jumper cable and fortunately it worked.
"You might want to show your wife how the Jump Starter works and where it gets connected on the Pacifica battery / ground." Yes, we talked about that yesterday. And I'm going to take @stop-eject 's recommendation of getting a free battery check at a local auto parts store. If there is any doubt about the battery at that point, I will take it to the dealership to see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
It makes sense to get the battery tested if your van is over two years old and you are concerned about possible failure.
My 1st 12V battery tested under 12V (but over 11.8 or so) for awhile before it ended up being replaced after testing by the dealer (at 28 months). That battery didn't fail to start, but when tested, it failed, so I guess it was getting close. It did manage to throw some voltage codes when the van was in for something else. The 2nd battery seemed fine but failed to start one rare humid afternoon (battery only 4 months old). It was able to be jumped but was also replaced when it failed dealer tests. 3rd battery registers around 14V without headlights on at 2 months.

@Longtimemopar You might want to show your wife how the Jump Starter works and where it gets connected on the Pacifica battery / ground. Even if she doesn't want to do it, she might be able to assist someone else who is willing to help. When I had to jump start my van, I had to get out the manual to figure it out. (It would be an hour before AAA would be able to get there and my son was available with another car so it was a learning experience.) The battery in the Ford Fusion that I was jumping the Pacifica with was pretty much standard and easy to access. The Pacifica battery took a little more thought. This was the confusing part for me:

"Connect the opposite end of the negative (-) jumper
cable to the negative post near the windshield cowl
(exposed metal part of the discharged vehicle’s engine).

Do not connect the jumper cable to the negative (-) post
of the discharged battery. The resulting electrical spark
could cause the battery to explode and could result in
personal injury. Only use the specific ground point, do
not use any other exposed metal parts."

If anyone can post a photo of the "negative post near the windshield cowl" it might help others. I couldn't figure out where it was and found another place to attach the negative jumper cable and fortunately it worked.
On top of the fuse cover there are symbols molded into the cover pointing to the ground post near the cowl.
 

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On top of the fuse cover there are symbols molded into the cover pointing to the ground post near the cowl.
Thanks so much for the photo! I had no idea where the cowl was and it's dusty here so the symbols on the fuse cover weren't obvious at the time. I'm sure the frustration factor didn't help either.
Thanks to all who help forum members learn more about the Pacifica.:smile2:
@ChryslerCares could you pass on a suggestion to those who update the owner's manuals to give a better description or drawing of where the ground post is? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Well, this post is not exactly about 'procedure'. Running some errands Saturday and when I lifted my foot off the brake the normal ESS seemed odd. Kind of like it did a double start in a micro second and sure enough............"Service ESS system" appeared on the dash. We finished our errands and by the time we got back to the house the message and symbol were gone. Sunday I used the remote start and the van seemed fine except the message was back. I had an early meeting Monday morning. Remote start. I noticed the LED parking lights were on as normal. When I started to drive down the street, the headlights didn't seem to be on. Got home from my meeting and called the dealership. I told them about the ESS service message and asked if they had the battery (I can't for sure recall if I asked about 'battery' or 'batteries'). The service writer said sure the battery is in stock, bring it on in. Within 20 minutes of getting it to the dealership, they told me that both batteries needed to be replaced and the ESS battery wouldn't be there for several hours. They got me a loaner Pacifica that I kept overnight.
The work order says that: "Auto start/stop function is not working. Low battery voltage codes in several modules. Both the main and aux battery failed when tested with the GR8 tester. Both batteries must be replaced and the stop start system relearned. Replaced both the aux and main battery. Relearned stop start feature. Repair complete 1390".
So both batteries were replaced under warranty - 25,710 miles and under 3 years old. The van seems to working normally again. The work was done at Atlantic Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep in St. Augustine, FL.
 
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