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I have provided info, what one does with the info is up to them, and the decision of
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hello,
Thank you so much for the insightful replies; I do appreciate the cautions. An update, I had my neighbor/electrician check the receptacle and there is no voltage across any of the pins. Makes sense I suppose since little ones can stick their fingers in there and touch the pins. While the five wires to the port appear to be connectorized, he suggested that it might just be easier to replace the entire cable/port which is "plug and play" on the charge module end; less chance of mis-wiring it. Same price for the whole thing. I will put it on the lift to get a better look underneath and if it doesn't end up up looking totally straight forward I will take it to the mechanic. I will update this thread after install. Thanks everyone!
Slope Font Automotive lighting Cable Fashion accessory
 

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That’s awesome because you best tell the fca mechanics this . because the mopar repair states to power down the vehicle .
Of course it does. They require power down for just about any procedure. But can you describe any plausible scenario which will electrify the J1772 on a working van?
 

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Hello,
Thank you so much for the insightful replies; I do appreciate the cautions. An update, I had my neighbor/electrician check the receptacle and there is no voltage across any of the pins. Makes sense I suppose since little ones can stick their fingers in there and touch the pins. While the five wires to the port appear to be connectorized, he suggested that it might just be easier to replace the entire cable/port which is "plug and play" on the charge module end; less chance of mis-wiring it. Same price for the whole thing. I will put it on the lift to get a better look underneath and if it doesn't end up up looking totally straight forward I will take it to the mechanic. I will update this thread after install. Thanks everyone!
This looks like the best idea, replacing the entire connector/cable assembly - but now you're going deeper into the battery/charging system, at least physically deeper.
It may indeed be simple and safe enough to just pull the connectors off and replace with the new cable but, I'd like to see someone else do that first before I get anywhere near it. ;)
(at the very least I might want to have a pair of those high-voltage repair gloves on...)
 

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This looks like the best idea, replacing the entire connector/cable assembly - but now you're going deeper into the battery/charging system, at least physically deeper.
It may indeed be simple and safe enough to just pull the connectors off and replace with the new cable but, I'd like to see someone else do that first before I get anywhere near it. ;)
(at the very least I might want to have a pair of those high-voltage repair gloves on...)
Yeah, snaking that harnass down to where it needs to be plugged-in could be a challenge. Looking forward to learning the difficulty of a DIY removal and install of a new cable assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Update:
I replaced the cable and updated my original post with the steps I took and photos. It was fiddly but there was really nothing scary about it. The cable actually plugs into another extension cable, so it wasn't necessary to touch any modules/batteries/etc. Of course do this at your own risk, but we established there is no current in the charge cord when unplugged so I think this can be a DIY project. I sincerely appreciate everybody's warnings and input.
 

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Update:
I replaced the cable and updated my original post with the steps I took and photos. It was fiddly but there was really nothing scary about it. The cable actually plugs into another extension cable, so it wasn't necessary to touch any modules/batteries/etc. Of course do this at your own risk, but we established there is no current in the charge cord when unplugged so I think this can be a DIY project. I sincerely appreciate everybody's warnings and input.
I found a price of $404 for the part. Is that accurate? If so, that's an expensive DIY repair and I'm sure it would be 'really' salty if a dealership service dept did the work.
 

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I used to work on some different radars in the past and it's not the voltage.. its the current that kills you with DC. Since it doesn't alternate, your muscles contract and stay until they pry your toasted fingers off whatever you shorted out. I used to have to stick my arm int the 5 volt bay which had hundreds of amps flowing.. hated every min of that adjustment sequence ( TPQ-37). 30 Amps is not that big of deal.. not really. ( again, past history ) If you take your time, make sure contacts are clean and snug.. its all good :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I found a price of $404 for the part. Is that accurate? If so, that's an expensive DIY repair and I'm sure it would be 'really' salty if a dealership service dept did the work.
I paid $268 from an on line parts service in Bartow, Florida. I didn't get a quote from the dealership but since they apparently need a spotter for electrical work on hybrids, I could easily see them charging double for labor.
 

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I paid $268 from an on line parts service in Bartow, Florida. I didn't get a quote from the dealership but since they apparently need a spotter for electrical work on hybrids, I could easily see them charging double for labor.
Thanks for the info and DIY instructions. There's a good chance someone else will be able to make good use of it in the future.
 

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I used to work on some different radars in the past and it's not the voltage.. its the current that kills you with DC. Since it doesn't alternate, your muscles contract and stay until they pry your toasted fingers off whatever you shorted out. I used to have to stick my arm int the 5 volt bay which had hundreds of amps flowing.. hated every min of that adjustment sequence ( TPQ-37). 30 Amps is not that big of deal.. not really. ( again, past history ) If you take your time, make sure contacts are clean and snug.. its all good :).
Yes, the current will kill, but you can't make high current to flow through a human body without some voltage. The real life dangerous voltage will vary wildly based on the voltage path across the body, moisture on the points of contact, etc... 12V and under is considered safe under any circumstances. You can grip both terminals of a car battery and nothing will happen. The battery is capable of producing 1000 Amps, but not through a human body.
 

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Yes, the current will kill, but you can't make high current to flow through a human body without some voltage. The real life dangerous voltage will vary wildly based on the voltage path across the body, moisture on the points of contact, etc... 12V and under is considered safe under any circumstances. You can grip both terminals of a car battery and nothing will happen. The battery is capable of producing 1000 Amps, but not through a human body.
This is why Thomas Edison was pushing for a DC power company. He famously killed an elephant with AC to prove his point.
 
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