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2020 Granite Limited Hybrid with AST
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Super useful info in this thread and throughout the forum - thanks all! With the milieu of constantly changing offers, rebates, and incentives, it can be a bit challenging to keep track. Anyone in the group have thoughts on this (cash) offer from a dealer in Colorado?

2020 Limited + advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection/mats + roadside kit
MSRP 51575 - 2468 employee discount = 49107 sale price + 399 "delivery & handling" fee - 7000 incentives = 42506 ($9069 or ~18% off MSRP) + taxes

breakdown of $7000 incentives:
$2000 national retail consumer cash 20cl1,
$500 trucar 44cl4,
$500 2020 retail bonus cash decla1,
$3000 national 2020 retail bonus cash 20cla1,
$1000 pacifica conquest retail bonus cash 44clb2

How's this offer? Any other incentives I should be going for (I read in old posts about Sam's?)? Any way to move any incentives to the sale price side of the ledger as it looks like I pay tax on the rebated amount...

Thanks!
Its not great unless all dealers in your area are the same price.
You should just put the set "employee price" into the incentives column (that's a chrysler program and the dealer isn't giving that discount).
You want to negotiate the deal based on the fact that every dealer is going to give you the same incentives/rebates you qualify for.

FYI You can use the FCA online purchase portal, pick the vehicle you want and "review purchase options" to see the list of all relevant rebates based on lease/finance/cash (they are all under rebates and "conditional offers" list). You obviously shouldn't put any of your real information or submit anything to the dealer to see the rebate information.

The only difference between dealers is the actual "dealer discount" off MSRP before incentives/rebates is willing to give.
That's the angle you want to be clear about and that's what you want to see broken out (sometimes they combine the employee pricing plan and their raw discount so subtract out the constant EPP per trim from drivefca website) on the dealer's BOS (bill of sale quotes) so you know what you could potentially use to compare between dealerships.

Start with the truecar website here:

Type in zip of the where you want to search and the vehicle options you want to search for (you can always change it to other zip codes to compare pricing from other dealers in/out of your area)
It'll give you baseline/starting point with price and the closet vehicle options, usually you can get a dealership to go to a lower price from there with a little legwork.
 

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So helpful, thanks! Yes, the local dealer (there is just 1) is offering 0 dealer discount, as you noticed, so I am exploring the Denver market since there are many dealership options and I travel there frequently for work.
 

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Also one thing to note is discount is different than rebate.

(MPRP - discount ) * (1+tax) - Rebate + fee = OTD

So discount is before tax and Rebate is after tax.

i.e. dealer, family pricing are discounts.
retails bonus, conquest cash are rebates.
Hope this helps when you get quote from dealers with complex numbers , added on etc =)
 

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2020 Pacifica Hybrid Limited, Ocean Blue w/ Mocha interior, AST, Tri-panoroof, UTheater
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Definitely digging the color
That's what it's all about. You got what you wanted, and you're happy with the car. (I also love the mocha/cocoa interior!)

IMHO, "paying too much" is a buyer's remorse that really only comes up if you aren't 100% happy with what you bought. I paid too much for condo once, but only after I found out all the work I had to do to make it habitable. Beforehand, when I didn't know the "inspector" was a friend of the seller, I thought it was a deal. In hindsight, it became a deal because I learned a ton about wiring, insulation and plumbing which has improved every house thereafter, for free. ;)
 
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2020 PacHy Limited | Maximum Steel | Tri-Pane Sunroof and Advanced Safety Tech
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That's what it's all about. You got what you wanted, and you're happy with the car. (I also love the mocha/cocoa interior!)

IMHO, "paying too much" is a buyer's remorse that really only comes up if you aren't 100% happy with what you bought. I paid too much for condo once, but only after I found out all the work I had to do to make it habitable. Beforehand, when I didn't know the "inspector" was a friend of the seller, I thought it was a deal. In hindsight, it became a deal because I learned a ton about wiring, insulation and plumbing which has improved every house thereafter, for free. ;)
I think you can reflect on the price paid without having buyer’s remorse. Reflecting allows you to learn from this experience and perhaps be able to negotiate better in your next purchase.
 

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As a new Pacifica Hybrid owner what are the incentives I should be looking into? As I am in MI the only tax rebate would be $7500 federal one. Are there incentives for getting a Level 2 charger installed? The quotes to just do the wiring from certified electrician is $1,000 and add another $500 for the charger, is it worth it?
 

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2020 Granite Limited Hybrid with AST
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As a new Pacifica Hybrid owner what are the incentives I should be looking into? As I am in MI the only tax rebate would be $7500 federal one. Are there incentives for getting a Level 2 charger installed? The quotes to just do the wiring from certified electrician is $1,000 and add another $500 for the charger, is it worth it?
Yes just as IL, we only have the federal $7,500 tax credit.
There is a federal tax rebate on EV level 2 installs until end of 2020 (who knows if it will be extended) which will pay 30% of install costs (or up to $1,000, whichever is less)
 

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As a new Pacifica Hybrid owner what are the incentives I should be looking into? As I am in MI the only tax rebate would be $7500 federal one. Are there incentives for getting a Level 2 charger installed? The quotes to just do the wiring from certified electrician is $1,000 and add another $500 for the charger, is it worth it?
There are federal credits for both the vehicle and charger/installation still. However, each state is different in what is available. For me in Maryland, they did NOT renew the credit on the vehicle this year :)() but they do still have credit for the charger and installation. Plus my electric company is offering some rebates of their own on Level 2 chargers. You'll need to search specifically for your state and utilities. With the state and federal credits and electric company rebate on the charger and the fact that my hubby is able to do the electrical work of getting a 240v outlet installed himself, I may actually MAKE money on it! Hah!
 

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Hi all,

Looking to buy in Michigan. Have found LTD we like for MSRP of 50,630 (sunroof, safety tech, theater). Dealer is offering national employee pricing which drops it to 48219. Tax (6%), title and doc fees then added to get to 51394. Chrysler financial is then offering a 5500 rebate and 0% financing for 60 months with nothing down for a final price of 45894. If you take off TTL (3,175) it's 42,719 which is 7,911 below MSRP (at 0% financing nothing down).

I asked about additional rebates if we paid cash and the rebates only go up by 1k (not worth it compared to 0% financing).

There doesn't seem to be any dealership rebates or discounts in here (though the over price isn't TERRIBLE base dkn other deals I've seen).

What are my chances of landing a 2-3k deership discount on top of this?

We've always leased so are a but new at new car purchase negotiation.

Thanks!
All I can in my area (Orange County, CA) I am seeing $7,500 to a whopping $10,000 of MSRP (on the Limited, I don’t see and Hybrids in the area). These are also 2020 models. And this is the online advertised price - I would think once someone went in they could get a bit more off. Keep in mind your area may be very different (there are lots of dealerships in Southern Californi) and the Hybrids may not have as deep as discount. Here is the links just for comparison for you:


 

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Some really good buying info already presented in this buying thread. Stuff like the finance department hard-sell and getting a better price with financing, then immediately paying it off (I did that one).

And a word on distance buying (i.e., out-of-state). The dealers know this game of traveling a long way to get a better deal. So, when you show up on what you 'thought' was an already agreed upon deal, you'll find that the 'real' bottom-line price has a bunch of tacked-on stuff and/or you don't qualify for all of the hard-to-get rebates. They know you've just made a long journey and are quite unlikely to go home empty-handed, so they figure they can get away with dirty tricks. That's why it's a better idea to try and buy locally if you can; it's a whole lot easier to play hardball if you live relatively nearby, than it is to walk if you've just traveled hundreds of miles.
 

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Great point on out of state dealers! Didn’t want to drive 5-6 hrs each way and then have dealer pull a bait n switch by saying I don’t qualify for all the rebates/promotions. Found the vehicles that met my criteria which were mostly out of state and worked with my local dealer to look at purchase options. Also I will be taking the car to them for regular servicing and in my experience I got better service as I purchased the car from them. YMMV
 

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Great point on out of state dealers! Didn’t want to drive 5-6 hrs each way and then have dealer pull a bait n switch by saying I don’t qualify for all the rebates/promotions. Found the vehicles that met my criteria which were mostly out of state and worked with my local dealer to look at purchase options. Also I will be taking the car to them for regular servicing and in my experience I got better service as I purchased the car from them. YMMV
How close to the out-of-state prices did you get by buying locally, i.e. did you feel like your dealer gave you the price you were looking for? My dealer is saying he could get a car but would only do their invoice for the car minus national incentives, which is not as good as the deals I've seen posted.

We purchased out of state (6 hour drive) 20 years ago, totally via email and phone, and it was a great experience. Picked up the car and signed everything and were in and out in 30 minutes. Guess it depends on the dealer, but we probably wouldn't have risked it if we hadn't had family in the area to visit and been prepared to walk if any shenanigans surfaced. If we buy out of state again, I'll make sure to have backup offers in the area or other objectives to accomplish (like a long-posrponed trip to Ikea!).
 

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How close to the out-of-state prices did you get by buying locally, i.e. did you feel like your dealer gave you the price you were looking for? My dealer is saying he could get a car but would only do their invoice for the car minus national incentives, which is not as good as the deals I've seen posted.

We purchased out of state (6 hour drive) 20 years ago, totally via email and phone, and it was a great experience. Picked up the car and signed everything and were in and out in 30 minutes. Guess it depends on the dealer, but we probably wouldn't have risked it if we hadn't had family in the area to visit and been prepared to walk if any shenanigans surfaced. If we buy out of state again, I'll make sure to have backup offers in the area or other objectives to accomplish (like a long-posrponed trip to Ikea!).
You should get quotes from other dealers and if you get a reasonable one let your dealer know whether they can match or beat that quote.
 

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Thanks all for the amazing advice on this and other threads which DEFINITELY saved me a significant sum. Ultimately we purchased a bright white/alloy 2020 Limited + Advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection + roadside kit, MSRP 51575. Family discount + 7000 Chrysler rebates + 1400 dealer discount brought it to $40707 ($10868, or 21%, off MSRP) + tax/fees. A couple of lessons I learned in this process and wanted to share with the community:

1) I live in a location in western Colorado where there is ONE local dealer although dozens across the state in Denver. My initial discussions with the local dealer revealed zero willingness to move on price, though once it was clear that I was not bluffing in saying I would purchase in Denver, things went much better: Much more fruitful negotiations, and I was pleasantly surprised to find the local dealer very welling to look across the state at other dealers' inventories to acquire and make a deal on the exact car I wanted.
2) I understand the value of comparing OTD pricing, but in my case, using "OTD" alone almost cost me about $2500: I came very close to purchasing a vehicle in Denver because the "OTD" price was so good, but then when reviewing the price breakdown I realized that the Denver dealer only included state tax (2% and change) whereas the local dealer included all state/county/city tax (totaling 8% and change). I would have to pay the county/city taxes in order to register the vehicle, totaling about $2500 additional. This might vary by state, but I learned the importance of carefully reviewing the price breakdown even on an OTD offer.

Hope this is helpful to somebody. Thanks again to the forum members who provided me such useful info.
 

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Thanks all for the amazing advice on this and other threads which DEFINITELY saved me a significant sum. Ultimately we purchased a bright white/alloy 2020 Limited + Advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection + roadside kit, MSRP 51575. Family discount + 7000 Chrysler rebates + 1400 dealer discount brought it to $40707 ($10868, or 21%, off MSRP) + tax/fees. A couple of lessons I learned in this process and wanted to share with the community:

1) I live in a location in western Colorado where there is ONE local dealer although dozens across the state in Denver. My initial discussions with the local dealer revealed zero willingness to move on price, though once it was clear that I was not bluffing in saying I would purchase in Denver, things went much better: Much more fruitful negotiations, and I was pleasantly surprised to find the local dealer very welling to look across the state at other dealers' inventories to acquire and make a deal on the exact car I wanted.
2) I understand the value of comparing OTD pricing, but in my case, using "OTD" alone almost cost me about $2500: I came very close to purchasing a vehicle in Denver because the "OTD" price was so good, but then when reviewing the price breakdown I realized that the Denver dealer only included state tax (2% and change) whereas the local dealer included all state/county/city tax (totaling 8% and change). I would have to pay the county/city taxes in order to register the vehicle, totaling about $2500 additional. This might vary by state, but I learned the importance of carefully reviewing the price breakdown even on an OTD offer.

Hope this is helpful to somebody. Thanks again to the forum members who provided me such useful info.
Congratulations on the purchase and that’s a great price! I am one week into the purchase and so far very happy.
 

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Ultimately we purchased a bright white/alloy 2020 Limited + Advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection + roadside kit, MSRP 51575. Family discount + 7000 Chrysler rebates + 1400 dealer discount brought it to $40707 ($10868, or 21%, off MSRP) + tax/fees.
...
I was pleasantly surprised to find the local dealer very welling to look across the state at other dealers' inventories to acquire and make a deal on the exact car I wanted.
Just to be clear, your local dealer did a dealer trade, transporting the car to your location, AND gave you that price with dealer discount?

I ask because my local dealer was willing to look for a car within 500 miles (he only has one on the lot), but said the trading dealer would get to keep the holdback, so I wouldn't grt a dealer discount, just the national rebates.

He also said if I contacted the more distant dealers to negotiate directly with them, they wouldn't do a dealer trade with him, since they'd want to work the numbers with me (which makes sense). So did your dealer get the car from a dealer you had not yet contacted?

Just trying to figure out how this negotiating would work with my local dealer, and yours is the first post I've seen describing that, so thanks for posting!
 

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Also one thing to note is discount is different than rebate.

(MPRP - discount ) * (1+tax) - Rebate + fee = OTD

So discount is before tax and Rebate is after tax.

i.e. dealer, family pricing are discounts.
retails bonus, conquest cash are rebates.
Hope this helps when you get quote from dealers with complex numbers , added on etc =)
In my state (TN), the rebates and fees are included in the taxable amount.
 
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