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Close to a reasonable offer? 2020 LTD hybrid

11K views 55 replies 19 participants last post by  PMinivan 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Looking to buy in Michigan. Have found LTD we like for MSRP of 50,630 (sunroof, safety tech, theater). Dealer is offering national employee pricing which drops it to 48219. Tax (6%), title and doc fees then added to get to 51394. Chrysler financial is then offering a 5500 rebate and 0% financing for 60 months with nothing down for a final price of 45894. If you take off TTL (3,175) it's 42,719 which is 7,911 below MSRP (at 0% financing nothing down).

I asked about additional rebates if we paid cash and the rebates only go up by 1k (not worth it compared to 0% financing).

There doesn't seem to be any dealership rebates or discounts in here (though the over price isn't TERRIBLE base dkn other deals I've seen).

What are my chances of landing a 2-3k deership discount on top of this?

We've always leased so are a but new at new car purchase negotiation.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
That seems like they aren't giving you a discount at all, most of us got at least 9K off MSRP. Everyone qualifies for those rebates (employee pricing, retail bonus cash and truecar are from FCA corporate so don't believe the dealer, they aren't actually discounting anything).
At the very least you should try to go through truecar website to see a variety of pricing for different dealerships with little effort for pacifica hybrid limited (use a junk email and phone number to avoid cold calls).
The website won't get the lowest possible pricing but at least they breakdown dealership discounts in your area and a starting point to come up with a realistic price you can stubbornly demand from a dealer (see which bite that want to sell).
Edmunds is a good starting point as well to understand how dealerships pricing works and how to get started. How to Negotiate Car Prices | Edmunds
Know what you want and price your willing to pay, and be willing to walk away if they try to upsell you or convince you they can't meet your price.
You'd be surprised as soon as you try to walk away how quickly their "final" offer will go down a bit further.
Happy hunting!
 
#5 ·
Looks like I should really be aiming for a 2k dealership discount in addition to the rest in order to get in that 9-10k off MSRP range. Are these 10k off MSRP deals with 0% financing. If you figure a 2% interest rate on 42k over 5 years that comes out to about 2k in interest. Just want to make sure 9-10k off MSRP WITH 0% financing is a reasonable goal.
 
#6 ·
Depends on the dealers and how interested they are in selling. Might be harder to get 10K total discount with 0% financing. Send that number out you want, see who comes back with the closest offers via email (could call if they seem serious) and go from there.
 
#7 · (Edited)
mkaz311 is right on the money (pun intended)! Almost no dealer is going to immediately dig into their profits with a discount unless it's the end of the month to hit a quota, or it's 2021 and they still have 2020's on the lot. It sucks, but to get that extra discount, you have to pretend to play their game by going in, walking out, and coming back with "this other dealer will give me the same at X price, but it's not the color I want and is further away." and so forth. Yes, lying, just like they do. Feels icky, but might be worth $2k.

Finally, watch out for the "finance office bait-n-switch" where they say "oh, we include (undercoating, nitrogen in the tires, lipstick remover) on all our vehicles" (and it's $800 added) or they sell you an extended warranty for more than Zeigler (the online kings of mopar warranties) does. I literally walked out of the finance office when buying my PacHy and had the woman running down the hall after me saying "okay, okay, nothing will be added, just can you please not walk in front of the sales manager's office!" Lesson learned - the finance office is where they make most of their money (or make it back if the price was a great deal), and Chrysler 0% or "cash" sales (or pre-financed) make them almost none, but completely losing a sale at the point of signing paperwork is even worse... for the dealer.

Edit to add: I bought my 2020 PacHy Ltd in May and did all these tricks with 0% from FCA, and still ended up paying a bit more than the $42k you're quoted. But that was May, and the 2021's are getting ready to leave the factory now. It's a great van, BTW.
 
#8 ·
Yep, I only got my deal cause I negotiated my car sale and tradein separately. I allowed them to give me a terrible 3.5% APR on my financing even though I have near perfect credit so they would give me a large dealer discount (~$2.4K). Which of course they also claimed I needed to wait 90 days to pay off without penalty (I'm sure thats around when they get their kickback from the loan). To them it seemed win, win but little did they know I can read a contract and ask the bank so I just paid it off couple days later with no penalty, only $10 of interest charges (instead of almost $500 had I waited).
Always read the fine print, do the math and check the numbers before you sign anything in that finance office. Sales might "forget" to calculate your local county tax rate correctly so the OTD price meets your expectations but you'd owe when you attempt to register the vehicle.
You just never know what they might try to pull if they need/want to claw some money back on your sale.
 
#10 ·
All of the above is good info. What I like to do is figure out the out the door price before going in, including if I have a trade calculated in. If they can hit my OTD price, then its a deal, and I don't care what the makeup of trade allowance, vehicle price, and fees are ;)

The best tip I have though is that it can be frustrating on these forums to see the amazing deals that some people get, and then have trouble trying to get the same deal. The thing to keep in mind is that it is OK to pay a little more if you are getting EXACTLY what you want. Trim, color, options, etc - if it is EXACTLY what you want, who cares about an extra grand or 2 when you're in the $40K-$50K range.

Also consider the dealer: I honestly might have done a little better on my '19 wrangler and '20 pacifica at a dealer across the state. However, having a trade, I couldn't guarantee that, and It wasn't worth saving $500 to $1000 to drive 3 hours each way, when I had a pretty good deal at a dealer so close I could ride my bicycle there.
 
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#11 ·
Since you're in Michigan, get some quotes from Illinois and Indiana. The difference when paying cash or taking the 0% should be $2000, not $1000 because that's how much the rebate is. Also, there's a conquest rebate for leases as well. Try to get quotes from these dealerships through email. Let them know what leased vehicles you have and if that qualifies for loyalty or conquest rebates. Then you can use the quotes for the dealer near you.



 
#13 ·
Has your dealer tried getting back to you yet with more aggressive pricing? I found a pretty loaded up Limited S Red model for $52k+ that the dealer is advertising about $8500 off already. They've been a little slow about sending me a "best price" via email, but if $10k off is doable, I might bite tomorrow when we go look at it.
 
#14 ·
A reasonable offer is one you'll accept, only you know what that is. I read all about awesome deals here but they're not relevant for our location, so irrelevant for us. It all depends on what the local competition looks like. And only you can decide how much you value money vs time haggling, driving thousands of miles etc.
 
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#15 ·
Can't agree more above ^
Some data point I can share is right now there is about $3000+ dealers discount at this moment plus all the factory rebate and Family discount you qualify.
The dealer could add more on the discount by the end of the month for the last 1-2 left over but since not too many inventory 2020 still in the lot and 2021 come out in Nov, so the trade off will be you can't find the most desirable TRIM/Color at that moment with 1000-2000 more discount.
Wish everyone happy shopping.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Just purchased Hybrid Limited with Advanced SafetyTec in Michigan for 42k out the door. It was all the standard incentives/rebates they had available and the $1000 off for using Chrysler financing. Looks like there was room to push for another $500 or so but overall happy with the purchase. The dealer didn't even have the vehicle on his lot and got it from different state so I suppose was not as motivated.

44598
 
#17 ·
Just purchased Hybrid Limited with Advanced SafetyTec in Michigan for 42k out the door. It was all the standard incentives/rebates they had available and the $1000 off for using Chrysler financing. Looks like there was room to push for another $500 or so but overall happy with the purchase. The dealer didn't even have the dar on his lot and got it from different state so I suppose was not as motivated.

View attachment 44598
Hmm you could even do better if you find out what dealer he's getting it from and negotiating directly ;)
Your probably right he doesn't have as much room to negotiate with you since he has to pay to transfer/transport it from a different dealer out of state
 
#24 ·
Definitely digging the color
That's what it's all about. You got what you wanted, and you're happy with the car. (I also love the mocha/cocoa interior!)

IMHO, "paying too much" is a buyer's remorse that really only comes up if you aren't 100% happy with what you bought. I paid too much for condo once, but only after I found out all the work I had to do to make it habitable. Beforehand, when I didn't know the "inspector" was a friend of the seller, I thought it was a deal. In hindsight, it became a deal because I learned a ton about wiring, insulation and plumbing which has improved every house thereafter, for free. ;)
 
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#19 ·
Super useful info in this thread and throughout the forum - thanks all! With the milieu of constantly changing offers, rebates, and incentives, it can be a bit challenging to keep track. Anyone in the group have thoughts on this (cash) offer from a dealer in Colorado?

2020 Limited + advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection/mats + roadside kit
MSRP 51575 - 2468 employee discount = 49107 sale price + 399 "delivery & handling" fee - 7000 incentives = 42506 ($9069 or ~18% off MSRP) + taxes

breakdown of $7000 incentives:
$2000 national retail consumer cash 20cl1,
$500 trucar 44cl4,
$500 2020 retail bonus cash decla1,
$3000 national 2020 retail bonus cash 20cla1,
$1000 pacifica conquest retail bonus cash 44clb2

How's this offer? Any other incentives I should be going for (I read in old posts about Sam's?)? Any way to move any incentives to the sale price side of the ledger as it looks like I pay tax on the rebated amount...

Thanks!
 
#21 ·
Super useful info in this thread and throughout the forum - thanks all! With the milieu of constantly changing offers, rebates, and incentives, it can be a bit challenging to keep track. Anyone in the group have thoughts on this (cash) offer from a dealer in Colorado?

2020 Limited + advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection/mats + roadside kit
MSRP 51575 - 2468 employee discount = 49107 sale price + 399 "delivery & handling" fee - 7000 incentives = 42506 ($9069 or ~18% off MSRP) + taxes

breakdown of $7000 incentives:
$2000 national retail consumer cash 20cl1,
$500 trucar 44cl4,
$500 2020 retail bonus cash decla1,
$3000 national 2020 retail bonus cash 20cla1,
$1000 pacifica conquest retail bonus cash 44clb2

How's this offer? Any other incentives I should be going for (I read in old posts about Sam's?)? Any way to move any incentives to the sale price side of the ledger as it looks like I pay tax on the rebated amount...

Thanks!
Its not great unless all dealers in your area are the same price.
You should just put the set "employee price" into the incentives column (that's a chrysler program and the dealer isn't giving that discount).
You want to negotiate the deal based on the fact that every dealer is going to give you the same incentives/rebates you qualify for.

FYI You can use the FCA online purchase portal, pick the vehicle you want and "review purchase options" to see the list of all relevant rebates based on lease/finance/cash (they are all under rebates and "conditional offers" list). You obviously shouldn't put any of your real information or submit anything to the dealer to see the rebate information.

The only difference between dealers is the actual "dealer discount" off MSRP before incentives/rebates is willing to give.
That's the angle you want to be clear about and that's what you want to see broken out (sometimes they combine the employee pricing plan and their raw discount so subtract out the constant EPP per trim from drivefca website) on the dealer's BOS (bill of sale quotes) so you know what you could potentially use to compare between dealerships.

Start with the truecar website here:

Type in zip of the where you want to search and the vehicle options you want to search for (you can always change it to other zip codes to compare pricing from other dealers in/out of your area)
It'll give you baseline/starting point with price and the closet vehicle options, usually you can get a dealership to go to a lower price from there with a little legwork.
 
#20 ·
Sam's is same as Truecar in my understanding since it is also quoted through truecar.
The rebates and family discount both look right here.
The only difference is someone could get better dealer discount ( some dealer offer those ) on top of all the family discount and rebates./
 
#23 ·
Also one thing to note is discount is different than rebate.

(MPRP - discount ) * (1+tax) - Rebate + fee = OTD

So discount is before tax and Rebate is after tax.

i.e. dealer, family pricing are discounts.
retails bonus, conquest cash are rebates.
Hope this helps when you get quote from dealers with complex numbers , added on etc =)
 
#37 ·
Also one thing to note is discount is different than rebate.

(MPRP - discount ) * (1+tax) - Rebate + fee = OTD

So discount is before tax and Rebate is after tax.

i.e. dealer, family pricing are discounts.
retails bonus, conquest cash are rebates.
Hope this helps when you get quote from dealers with complex numbers , added on etc =)
In my state (TN), the rebates and fees are included in the taxable amount.
 
#26 ·
As a new Pacifica Hybrid owner what are the incentives I should be looking into? As I am in MI the only tax rebate would be $7500 federal one. Are there incentives for getting a Level 2 charger installed? The quotes to just do the wiring from certified electrician is $1,000 and add another $500 for the charger, is it worth it?
 
#27 ·
Yes just as IL, we only have the federal $7,500 tax credit.
There is a federal tax rebate on EV level 2 installs until end of 2020 (who knows if it will be extended) which will pay 30% of install costs (or up to $1,000, whichever is less)
 
#29 ·
All I can in my area (Orange County, CA) I am seeing $7,500 to a whopping $10,000 of MSRP (on the Limited, I don’t see and Hybrids in the area). These are also 2020 models. And this is the online advertised price - I would think once someone went in they could get a bit more off. Keep in mind your area may be very different (there are lots of dealerships in Southern Californi) and the Hybrids may not have as deep as discount. Here is the links just for comparison for you:


 
#30 ·
Some really good buying info already presented in this buying thread. Stuff like the finance department hard-sell and getting a better price with financing, then immediately paying it off (I did that one).

And a word on distance buying (i.e., out-of-state). The dealers know this game of traveling a long way to get a better deal. So, when you show up on what you 'thought' was an already agreed upon deal, you'll find that the 'real' bottom-line price has a bunch of tacked-on stuff and/or you don't qualify for all of the hard-to-get rebates. They know you've just made a long journey and are quite unlikely to go home empty-handed, so they figure they can get away with dirty tricks. That's why it's a better idea to try and buy locally if you can; it's a whole lot easier to play hardball if you live relatively nearby, than it is to walk if you've just traveled hundreds of miles.
 
#31 ·
Great point on out of state dealers! Didn’t want to drive 5-6 hrs each way and then have dealer pull a bait n switch by saying I don’t qualify for all the rebates/promotions. Found the vehicles that met my criteria which were mostly out of state and worked with my local dealer to look at purchase options. Also I will be taking the car to them for regular servicing and in my experience I got better service as I purchased the car from them. YMMV
 
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#32 ·
How close to the out-of-state prices did you get by buying locally, i.e. did you feel like your dealer gave you the price you were looking for? My dealer is saying he could get a car but would only do their invoice for the car minus national incentives, which is not as good as the deals I've seen posted.

We purchased out of state (6 hour drive) 20 years ago, totally via email and phone, and it was a great experience. Picked up the car and signed everything and were in and out in 30 minutes. Guess it depends on the dealer, but we probably wouldn't have risked it if we hadn't had family in the area to visit and been prepared to walk if any shenanigans surfaced. If we buy out of state again, I'll make sure to have backup offers in the area or other objectives to accomplish (like a long-posrponed trip to Ikea!).
 
#34 ·
Thanks all for the amazing advice on this and other threads which DEFINITELY saved me a significant sum. Ultimately we purchased a bright white/alloy 2020 Limited + Advanced safety + sunroof + interior protection + roadside kit, MSRP 51575. Family discount + 7000 Chrysler rebates + 1400 dealer discount brought it to $40707 ($10868, or 21%, off MSRP) + tax/fees. A couple of lessons I learned in this process and wanted to share with the community:

1) I live in a location in western Colorado where there is ONE local dealer although dozens across the state in Denver. My initial discussions with the local dealer revealed zero willingness to move on price, though once it was clear that I was not bluffing in saying I would purchase in Denver, things went much better: Much more fruitful negotiations, and I was pleasantly surprised to find the local dealer very welling to look across the state at other dealers' inventories to acquire and make a deal on the exact car I wanted.
2) I understand the value of comparing OTD pricing, but in my case, using "OTD" alone almost cost me about $2500: I came very close to purchasing a vehicle in Denver because the "OTD" price was so good, but then when reviewing the price breakdown I realized that the Denver dealer only included state tax (2% and change) whereas the local dealer included all state/county/city tax (totaling 8% and change). I would have to pay the county/city taxes in order to register the vehicle, totaling about $2500 additional. This might vary by state, but I learned the importance of carefully reviewing the price breakdown even on an OTD offer.

Hope this is helpful to somebody. Thanks again to the forum members who provided me such useful info.
 
#52 ·
Congrats! That's a brilliant strategy. Simply amazing deal you got. Unfortunately for me here in NYC, the inventory on the Hybrid Pacificas was so low and I could only find one minivan within a 150 mile radius that had the color, options and package I was looking for. I took the deal with the family pricing, $4000 in rebates and 0% APR for 60 months. In the end, we both are driving a car that we love!
 
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