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Followed Stop-Eject's instructions (OP) to install my dash camera - Worked great, although my mirror connector had several more wires than shown in his photo - Presumably for the 911, assist and auto-dim functions, I suppose?

I used a Lukas LK-7900 ARA - 1080P Full HD at 30fps. I have had the same camera in my other vehicle for several years, so it is a bit of an older model, but is really heavy duty metal construction, good lens, excellent temperature range survives baking in sunlight, and allows screw-on filters to reduce windshield glare. It does not have an LCD screen, but I really don't care about that - Once you aim it, it really does no good anyway. It talks to tell you when it starts recording, and if it has any problems, so I can have confidence that it is working. I like the LED display of date & time and changes to MPH when moving. I also like the built in GPS and 3 axis accel sensors, which get logged with video data to provide pretty good blackbox data. I also like being able to quickly pop the SD out (up to 256GB!) if I need to keep the info safe quickly. Also, it runs directly from the 12V wiring - No 5V step down required!

Main dissapointment is having to mount it below the plastic mirror electronics housing where it obscures the driver view a bit - mounting it higher to the side of the plastic cover allows the view to be partially blocked by the cover. - One of those newer flush-to-the-window cameras would avoid this, but my great experience over the years with this camera outweighed that factor.
 

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Main dissapointment is having to mount it below the plastic mirror electronics housing where it obscures the driver view a bit - mounting it higher to the side of the plastic cover allows the view to be partially blocked by the cover. - One of those newer flush-to-the-window cameras would avoid this, but my great experience over the years with this camera outweighed that factor.
Sounds like a quality camera, but yeah, just your mount is about the same size as my entire camera (B1W). It's completely invisible (hidden behind the rear-view mirror) to the driver. Admittedly mine doesn't have GPS, but it was also only $44.
 

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I have dash cams on every vehicle I own. A few years ago it saved me $1,000 deductible showing the accident was not my fault. Worth every penny.


I had the dash cam you show but switch it out for the Blackvue no display but it fits the window pretty tightly.
Hello.
By chance did you hard wire your Blackvue or just put in the cigarette lighter?
 

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You can avoid soldering with Posi-Tap connectors Amazon.com: Posi-tap Connector, 20-22 Gauge Wire, Pack of 5: Automotive , but they will pierce tiny holes in the wires.
Thanks for an excellent post (new Pacifica owner & forum member here).

A couple of notes on Posi-Taps - the hole they leave when removed is very small and mostly self sealing. I have been using them on motorcycles for years and tens of thousands of miles without any issues whatsoever - and I'm NOT a fair-weather rider. I doubt that you'd ever have a problem with them in the cabin of a car. Unless you submerged the car in a river. But then, you'd have bigger problems. 😁
 

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BTW, that box behind the rear mirror, what is that holding inside? Anything relative to FCW or ACC?
 

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Will the fishing of rear camera wire be easier if the car doesn't have sunroof? (like skipping taking off D pillar trim and going through the center)
Isn't the headliner glued on to the roof? I can't imagine fishing through the middle being any easier than popping off panels to get to the back. Just my guess though.
 

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Remove the mirror connector, pushing on the retaining clip on the bottom. It has 3 wires in the positions 1,4 and 5. Insert the black wire from the DC-DC converter in the rear of the connector next to the pin 4 (black wire). Insert the red wire next to the pin 5 (pinkish wire). Tie the converter cable to the mirror harness with a small tie wrap. Reconnect the mirror connector. Route the miniUSB cable up and tuck it into the headliner.



Reinstall the covers, mount and connect the dashcam.
Thanks for sharing!
Is this wire hot all the time, or only when the car is on?

I'm looking into buying this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SZNL2WT
And it has a parking mode, which records on movement, but needs to be connected to an always-hot wire.

Also, any tips on passing the wire for the rear camera a long the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Thanks for sharing!
Is this wire hot all the time, or only when the car is on?

I'm looking into buying this one: Amazon.com: Vantrue S1 4k Hidden Dash Cam Built in GPS Speed, Dual 1080P Front and Rear Car Camera with 24/7 Parking Mode, Sony Night Vision, Single Front 60fps, Capacitor, G-Sensor, Support 256GB Max for Trucks
And it has a parking mode, which records on movement, but needs to be connected to an always-hot wire.

Also, any tips on passing the wire for the rear camera a long the car?
This wire is controlled by ignition, can't be used for the parking mode.
I think it is easier to install a separate rear dashcam than run the rear camera cable. You can find my post on the rear dashcam install- it is parking mode compatible.
 

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Hello guys!!!
I know that this topic may not be a "fresh meal" anymore, but maybe there still are folks that think about installing the dashcam (front and rear).
Here is my DIY video footage.
It has Polish comments but I will add English subs soon too! But I hope the video is self explanatory :)

Be safe!

[Ep.12] DIY - Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid - Dashcam Instalation
 

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Hey I have a question if anyone wants a so kind to have an answer I’m trying to just keep my stock Navi system and run a low pass drop kit and hook up a after market amp and sub I’ve got everything ready and good to go just can’t seem to find the +12v trigger wire that only sends power when the car is on does anyone know what one that is? My tester only finds a constant hot wire that makes my amp hum even when the radio is off it’ll hum but not in park kinda weird doesn’t hum at all in park radio on or off but does once ingaged.. plz and thnx for any and all help.
 

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Yes I have that and no it’s tucked nicely in the front under the seat of my passenger side wires are tucked an ran to the back tho I’m going to try the USB port to see how my amp takes to that low voltage power
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I didn't mean to hook up to the 5V USB port output, but to the 12V power on the back. The 12V->5V converter is in the port. But if your amp is in the front, you could connect to the 12V "Lighter" outlet.
 

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Yea I got my wire connected there but I’m still getting a drone noise like the throttle is coming thru my sub or something any ideas why?? I think my drop kit might be bad I’m going to replace it and see how that does but if anyone’s got any info I’d love to hear it and try it thnx again
 
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