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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I can't believe these LCD screens suffer from BURN IN! I'm not sure how it happened because my screens generally stay closed/off but a Shania Twain CD screen was permanently burned in on the passenger side. I tried using one of those Burn-In Repair DVDs that alternate between full black and full white for an entire day but the problem persisted.
4K miles out of warranty and the dealer wanted $560 for the part and another $240 to install - $800 bucks!

I found the MOPAR part 5MH00PD2AC on-line for $325. I would have preferred to replace just the internal LCD panel, a CHUNGHWA CLAA101WG01 XW (see thumbnail) but I could not find that exact part number on the Internet. I did find similar CHUNGWHA panels notably the CLAA101wa01a ranging in price from $28 to $48. If I could have found an exact LCD part number match I would have done so. I opted to buy the entire MOPAR Uconnect Theater screen in and by installing it myself the final price was still slightly less than half the dealer price.

Steps
1- Pry off the two decorative doors
2- Remove 4 Torx T20 long sheet metal screws. These are the only screws attaching the entire back of the seat...everything else is held on by large push clips.
3- Work your fingers behind the plastic near the clips shown and pull hard starting at the top and working down.
4- Remove two short Torx machine screws on the back of the monitor. Disconnect two electrical connectors. The monitor is free to slide up and away. Note where the lower tab slides in.
5- The new monitor is installed in reverse order. Easy.

The final two pictures are of the inside of my old monitor after the back plastic clamshell was removed (not shown). Note the LCD manufacturer and part number.
 

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Wow... Great Job! Sorry about the burn in issue in the first place, but if it happens to ours I can only hope it is Shania Twain on our screen. Great singer and overall wonderful person! When my iMac developed a screen burn in due to the screen saver app failing to engage, I just fixed the screen saver app and the burn in went away in a couple of hours. I'm sure it depends on the actual screen design. The iMac isn't a touch screen. In any case, your approach saved you quite a few dollars and your process description with photos was fantastic.
 

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That means that even if you do not have the CD and the main menu is showing up in the pack that may get burned. Did you keep the displays in Up (ready) position? I keep them always down, I believe that in that way the screen are off. May be I'm wrong.
 

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@BrettP. Your prize for this thread is a sticky. Yay! Thanks for the write up and sorry about the burn in.
 

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Do you have any more pics of the screen? I can find some same manufacturer and same size screens but the connectors may be off. There may be a replacement model.number or minor variation that still works. That would be good info to know as these vehicles age. You can buy a lot of 50 screens online for around $150 on eBay. We just need to know they are going to work.

What are you going to do with the old screen assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow... Great Job! Sorry about the burn in issue in the first place, but if it happens to ours I can only hope it is Shania Twain on our screen.
I feel the same about Shania. I jokingly asked my wife to look at the Uconnect screen and verify the burn-in just in case it was my retina that had Shania burned in, haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have any more pics of the screen?
... What are you going to do with the old screen assembly?
I can take a couple more pictures when I get back in town. I agree the difference might just be connectors or automotive temperature range, etc.. I posted the picture of the LCD make/model sticker with the hope that someone here is a CHUNGHWA LCD panel expert and can shed some light on where to source an exact replacement. It doesn’t look like it would be hard to replace the panel.

I plan to hang on to the screen. Other than burn-in it works fine and is a good source of spare parts for the other two in case I lose a backlight, power board, or scratch the case, etc..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That means that even if you do not have the CD and the main menu is showing up in the pack that may get burned. Did you keep the displays in Up (ready) position? I keep them always down, I believe that in that way the screen are off. May be I'm wrong.
I thought that too. My screens are always down. Sometimes they appear to go off as I rotate them down but other times they are down but I still see that they are lit. Weird. Now I am going to tap the Turn off Screen button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
@BrettP. Your prize for this thread is a sticky. Yay!
My first sticky...and just 4000 miles out of warranty! 36k went by faster than I predicted when I opted for no extended warranty thinking I would trade in around 2019. Time to pay the piper!
 
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... I agree the difference might just be connectors or automotive temperature range, etc..

While not an expert on this brand of display, a bit of online searching has led me to believe the following about the part number breakdown:


CLAA: just an identifying prefix for all CHUNGWHA panels
101: the screen size (10.1" in this case)
W: widescreen ratio (resolution is probably 1280 x 720)


The rest of the part number (G01 XW) is unknown, but seeing several of their other part numbers has led me to believe that these MAY represent (in no certain order) an automotive temperature range, long life/high reliability, and the fact that (I believe) the digitizer is built-in. It could also be a custom number for Delphi just to differentiate their units (as it does have their p/n on it after all).


All of these that I'm seeing datasheets for (which aren't the exact one we're looking for), as well as the Chrysler wiring pinout seem to show the interface as LVDS..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
A few questions...

Do you know how many pins are on the ribbon cable connecting the LCD to the board? 40?

Is the digitizer (touch screen) removable from the LCD itself?
@danimal1228

Yes, a 40 pin connector to the LCD panel's controller card (mounted on the back of the LCD...see picture 4) with 30 wires actually connected 10 black 16 grey 4 more black. The similar CHUNGHWA CLAA101WA01 uses an I-PEX 20455-040E-12 40 pin connector and it looks just like the connector I have on mine.

Touchscreen is attached to the front of the LCD by adhesive around the perimeter and it might be possible to carefully liberate it with an X-Acto Knife then (re)glue to another LCD. Main IC on the brown touchscreen PCB is an ATMEL MXT768E maxTouch mutual capacitance touchscreen controller

@daniel9478
Good data (as always). Thanks. LVDS sounds reasonable via the 16 grey conductors to the 40 pin plug. The 16 grey conductors appear to be arranged as 5 differential pairs with a grey ground guard wire between pairs. It seems consistent the similarly numbered CHUNGHWA CLAA101WA01A data sheet which can be found on-line (see 40 pin connector pinout below).


The interface/power card has two connectors to Pacifica wiring. A 4 pin black connector (power likely) and a brown automotive connector that a standard USB MINI A connector can directly plug into
 

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I can't believe these LCD screens suffer from BURN IN! I'm not sure how it happened because my screens generally stay closed/off but a Shania Twain CD screen was permanently burned in on the passenger side. I tried using one of those Burn-In Repair DVDs that alternate between full black and full white for an entire day but the problem persisted.
4K miles out of warranty and the dealer wanted $560 for the part and another $240 to install - $800 bucks!

I found the MOPAR part 5MH00PD2AC on-line for $325. I would have preferred to replace just the internal LCD panel, a CHUNGHWA CLAA101WG01 XW (see thumbnail) but I could not find that exact part number on the Internet. I did find similar CHUNGWHA panels notably the CLAA101wa01a ranging in price from $28 to $48. If I could have found an exact LCD part number match I would have done so. I opted to buy the entire MOPAR Uconnect Theater screen in and by installing it myself the final price was still slightly less than half the dealer price.

Steps
1- Pry off the two decorative doors
2- Remove 4 Torx T20 long sheet metal screws. These are the only screws attaching the entire back of the seat...everything else is held on by large push clips.
3- Work your fingers behind the plastic near the clips shown and pull hard starting at the top and working down.
4- Remove two short Torx machine screws on the back of the monitor. Disconnect two electrical connectors. The monitor is free to slide up and away. Note where the lower tab slides in.
5- The new monitor is installed in reverse order. Easy.

The final two pictures are of the inside of my old monitor after the back plastic clamshell was removed (not shown). Note the LCD manufacturer and part number.
This was good info and helped me. LCD broke on me. Pretty much same as you. Stripped everything down to the LCD, had the CLAA101WG01 in mine as well (2017)... but from that point on it looked like the repair got more tricky, if you could even track down the replacement LCD. I had spent enough time on it, so I ordered the 5MH00PD2AC (which is now 5MH00PD2AD) online to the tune of $370. The unit is pretty easy to remove, your info was spot on and helped! The toughest part was pulling the back off of the chair, you have to pull hard but it came out.

Thanks for posting
 
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