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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

We have owned a 2018 Limited Pachy for about 5 months, and I wanted to share a recent issue for your thoughts/comments.

Briefly: earlier this week, after stopping and turning off the car for about 45 minutes in a parking lot, I returned and attempted to turn our van on, only to see extensive faults and messages on the dash. All the PNRDL shifter lights were on, I couldn't move the shifter, couldn't turn the car off, couldn't do anything, etc. I called Uconnect service and they first sent a flat bed truck, but since the wheels on our van were locked, they couldn't get the vehicle on the truck, so they had to call another truck with "Dollies", which was finally able to transport my van to a local dealer.

(Note to all: if you are in a similar position: ask for a tow-truck with "dollies" otherwise your van will need to be dragged onto a flat bed, which was not possible in my case).

Anyway, I suspected a problem with the 12V battery, but after being at the dealer, they told me that the problem was actually NOT directly with the battery. Rather, they told me that while the battery was indeed drained, this was because there was a known fault with the rear DVD screen, which appeared black when the vehicle was turned off, but was actually ON, and thus was draining power from the battery. They said they recharged the battery (it apparently took 156 minutes), tested it to confirm that it's fine, and then they disassembled the rear seat, disconnected and reconnected the rear DVD screen while checking current draw, performed TSB: 08-095-19 (which they said would address this known problem), and gave me back the vehicle after confirming that the current draw issues have been solved.

The vehicle seems to be working fine now. But question to all: has anyone else experienced a similar problem, and is there anyone that can comment on if the rationale and approach taken by the dealer makes sense and should definitively solve the problem?

As an aside: this is now the second trip to dealer service I have had since purchasing the vehicle (basically new) 5 months ago. My early experience suggests quality control is an issue.

Best Regards,

Marko
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My previous visit to a dealer was due to an unrelated issue: a front left suspension issue (broken bearing/bushing) - the vehicle sounded like it had rocks in the suspension whenever I went over any bump.
 

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It's hard for me to believe that 45 minutes in a parking lot would allow a DVD screen to drain a battery. Also, assuming the battery was actually drained, you will need to watch that battery carefully as draining a lead acid battery can damage it. TSB: 08-095-19 is actually for a black screen issue; it updates the VRM (video routing module).

If you ever need a tow in the future, commit this video to memory!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Waldo, thanks for the feedback. FYI: I tried to put my car in neutral (as demonstrated in the video you provided), but when I opened the small cover, no string was attached! I flashed a light in the cavity and could not see a string hidden in the cavity, so I was literally stuck (not able to switch to neutral).

Separately, does anyone know how the 12V battery charges? Yes, I was only in the parking lot for ~45 minutes, but the ICE engine had not been on for days as I was driving on battery power and I wondered if (similar to an ICE vehicle) the 12V battery charged when on engine mode.
 

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Waldo, thanks for the feedback. FYI: I tried to put my car in neutral (as demonstrated in the video you provided), but when I opened the small cover, no string was attached! I flashed a light in the cavity and could not see a string hidden in the cavity, so I was literally stuck (not able to switch to neutral).

Separately, does anyone know how the 12V battery charges? Yes, I was only in the parking lot for ~45 minutes, but the ICE engine had not been on for days as I was driving on battery power and I wondered if (similar to an ICE vehicle) the 12V battery charged when on engine mode.
Sorry, I now see that you have a hybrid. I don't know how Park works in it. Perhaps someone else here knows.
 

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Separately, does anyone know how the 12V battery charges? Yes, I was only in the parking lot for ~45 minutes, but the ICE engine had not been on for days as I was driving on battery power and I wondered if (similar to an ICE vehicle) the 12V battery charged when on engine mode.
The 12V battery is charged from the HV battery through a DC-DC converter when the vehicle is on. (If unable to do this, EV mode would be unusable since it would drain very quickly.) The ICE is only needed to charge the HV battery.
 

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@lutorm has it right, but let me add a couple more details. The 12v battery also charges when the car is plugged in and actively charging. Once the high voltage battery is full, charging stops for both batteries. Also, when the gas engine is running it maintains the charge level of the high voltage battery and keeps it from going below a hidden reserve level (0% on your dashboard does not mean that the high voltage battery is completely discharged). The high voltage battery in turn maintains the charge level of the 12v battery.

@Waldo is also right to be skeptical about the rear screens draining the 12v battery that quickly. It is likely that the 12v battery has reduced capacity. There are many reports of bad 12v batteries in 2018s that sat around on the dealer's lot for a long time. If the car wasn't charged or driven then the 12v battery will get completely discharged after a few months and that isn't good for it. Normal drain when the car is parked and off is 25 milliamps or 18 amp hours per month.

Finally, as you found, the pull string for disengaging the parking pawl in the transmission is not there for hybrid Pacificas. I have no idea why but it appears to be a deliberate design decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Many thanks to all for the very helpful responses and info. Much appreciated.
The dealer told me that when my vehicle was in the shop, it was connected to a battery monitor device that performed extensive testing and indicated that the battery is fine.
Is there reason to question this conclusion, especially based on the history of 12v battery issues in 2018s (Eg as indicated by AZBean)?
 

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If the dealer says the battery tests fine then you aren't going to get anywhere by arguing with them. I would take them at their word, but carry a small rechargeable jump battery with you so that you can get moving again in the event that the problem reoccurs.
 

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I had the exact same problem, word for word including the need for dollies, back on November 25, 2019. My 2018 PacHy spent a week in the shop and the diagnosis about the 12V battery was exactly the same. The cause was never figured out, but, complete battery testing, etc., and the original battery passed ok.

About all I can say is that I haven't had any issues with the 12V since I got it back. I've been having the power unavailable to sliding door thing, sometimes in the driver's side door, sometimes in the passenger side door. As per one of the other posts I read this week, I'm going to check 100% of the fuses to make sure they're all completely pushed in, in the hopes that it will be the answer to the intermittent problem. We'll see.

Good luck, in any case!
 

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Hello,

We have owned a 2018 Limited Pachy for about 5 months, and I wanted to share a recent issue for your thoughts/comments.

Briefly: earlier this week, after stopping and turning off the car for about 45 minutes in a parking lot, I returned and attempted to turn our van on, only to see extensive faults and messages on the dash. All the PNRDL shifter lights were on, I couldn't move the shifter, couldn't turn the car off, couldn't do anything, etc. I called Uconnect service and they first sent a flat bed truck, but since the wheels on our van were locked, they couldn't get the vehicle on the truck, so they had to call another truck with "Dollies", which was finally able to transport my van to a local dealer.

(Note to all: if you are in a similar position: ask for a tow-truck with "dollies" otherwise your van will need to be dragged onto a flat bed, which was not possible in my case).

Anyway, I suspected a problem with the 12V battery, but after being at the dealer, they told me that the problem was actually NOT directly with the battery. Rather, they told me that while the battery was indeed drained, this was because there was a known fault with the rear DVD screen, which appeared black when the vehicle was turned off, but was actually ON, and thus was draining power from the battery. They said they recharged the battery (it apparently took 156 minutes), tested it to confirm that it's fine, and then they disassembled the rear seat, disconnected and reconnected the rear DVD screen while checking current draw, performed TSB: 08-095-19 (which they said would address this known problem), and gave me back the vehicle after confirming that the current draw issues have been solved.

The vehicle seems to be working fine now. But question to all: has anyone else experienced a similar problem, and is there anyone that can comment on if the rationale and approach taken by the dealer makes sense and should definitively solve the problem?

As an aside: this is now the second trip to dealer service I have had since purchasing the vehicle (basically new) 5 months ago. My early experience suggests quality control is an issue.

Best Regards,

Marko
Hi Marko,

They have had problems with the radio staying on and draining the battery in the past. (Like one below)

43159


unfortunately the 08-095-19 bulletin doesnt work on TechAuthority or I would share those details.

43160


but sounds like you’ve experienced a dead battery.. So as long as they have done due diligence and fixed the causes of your battery discharge you may be ok from here on out.

A healthy VRLA 12v AGM battery has oxygen depleted chemistry to help protect it from sulfation if its ever fully discharged.. But that only goes so far. If its flat for too long it will be damaged or have a shortened life span.

The problem with warranty is that the dealer isn't allowed to just replace it. It needs to fail a test that is pretty hard to fail.. ie: that battery cant be useable anymore when its tested. Otherwise they have to recharge it and see how it goes.

Storing a small lithium jumpstart pack might get you out of a jam should it happen again. Its a bit of a gamble because the computers sometimes store faults that prevent the vehicle from driving (until the battery is disconnected and reconnected or the faults cleared.)
 

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I had the exact same problem, word for word including the need for dollies, back on November 25, 2019. My 2018 PacHy spent a week in the shop and the diagnosis about the 12V battery was exactly the same. The cause was never figured out, but, complete battery testing, etc., and the original battery passed ok.

About all I can say is that I haven't had any issues with the 12V since I got it back. I've been having the power unavailable to sliding door thing, sometimes in the driver's side door, sometimes in the passenger side door. As per one of the other posts I read this week, I'm going to check 100% of the fuses to make sure they're all completely pushed in, in the hopes that it will be the answer to the intermittent problem. We'll see.

Good luck, in any case!
Hey mmrmagicmph,

We regret to hear of your experience. If you happen to have concerns again, please don't hesitate in following up via private message for additional assistance.

Alex
Chrysler Cares
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey mmrmagicmph,

We regret to hear of your experience. If you happen to have concerns again, please don't hesitate in following up via private message for additional assistance.

Alex
Chrysler Cares
Alex, it's very nice of you to offer assistance to mmrmagimph, but is there a reason you have neglected to offer me (the initiator of this thread) the same courtesy?

Best regards,

Marko.
 

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Alex, it's very nice of you to offer assistance to mmrmagimph, but is there a reason you have neglected to offer me (the initiator of this thread) the same courtesy?

Best regards,

Marko.
Only ChryslerCares USA is active in the forum.

Canadians need to work with the Canadian counterparts unfortunately.
 

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Alex, it's very nice of you to offer assistance to mmrmagimph, but is there a reason you have neglected to offer me (the initiator of this thread) the same courtesy?

Best regards,

Marko.
Hi Marko,

I am sorry to hear this! As we are only authorized to work with customers from the United States here, we do recommend following up with Customer Care in your region at 800-465-2001 or on Twitter at @ChryslerCanada (https://twitter.com/ChryslerCanada.) We certainly apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you!

Alex
Chrysler Cares
 
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