Thanks so much for a very detailed writeup with pictures!
That might work, but if you really want to go all out, you might look into a dual battery setup like this:Excellent writeup! I wonder if it would be advantageous and easily possible to remove the two batteries and install the larger 94R/H7 battery in it's place. My guess is that you'd at least need the larger battery tray & corresponding strap and the longer positive cable.
Yes, it does. ESS will work normally - all this does is trick the vehicle into thinking both batteries are still hooked up.Does this also eliminate the Circle A alert on the dash as well as the start up error?
Since you have performed this modification, I'm just curious now what happens with the "Circle A Off" button above the HVAC controls on the center console? Is it's LED blue illumination lite, or if you push it does it light up blue even thought it really isn't doing anything? I guess your modification is really preforming the same function as this ESS defeat button did.Yes, it does. ESS will work normally - all this does is trick the vehicle into thinking both batteries are still hooked up.
If you already disconnected the AUX and have the @ alert and start up error, you will have to disconnect the main for a few minutes to reset the error after disconnecting the PCR.
No, this mod does not affect the ESS system in any way. ESS will continue to function as normal, the only difference is that you are always running off the main battery rather than the AUX battery being used to power electronics when the engine is off during an ESS event. Many vehicles use ESS and have a single battery, so it should be fine, but it could also shorten the life of the main battery.Since you have performed this modification, I'm just curious now what happens with the "Circle A Off" button above the HVAC controls on the center console? Is it's LED blue illumination lite, or if you push it does it light up blue even thought it really isn't doing anything? I guess your modification is really preforming the same function as this ESS defeat button did.
Thanks for clarifying, I now understand how the mod works.No, this mod does not affect the ESS system in any way. ESS will continue to function as normal, the only difference is that you are always running off the main battery rather than the AUX battery being used to power electronics when the engine is off during an ESS event. Many vehicles use ESS and have a single battery, so it should be fine, but it could also shorten the life of the main battery.
However, because I don't like ESS (I believe it is hard on batteries starters, and even the engine) I installed a smart start stop device which remembers the last setting. So if I shut off the pacifica with ESS disabled and the blue LED on, when I start it the ESS is still disabled and the light comes on (it takes a few seconds after start). If you decide to go this route, make sure you confirm with smart start stop that your pacifica will work as I not all will. I think you have to have rear USBs for it to work.
If you disconnect either battery cable, the battery will no longer receive any charge.Thanks for write up and the information. I hate the ESS too and especially that you can't turn it off so it stays off. I've almost programmed myself to push the button to disable ESS very time I start the car. But sometimes I forget until I come to a stop and the engine shuts off.
Question. If you disconnect the negative terminal to the AUX battery will it still charge/stay charged?
That's what I thought.If you disconnect either battery cable, the battery will no longer receive any charge.
No, it can't stay charged. When you disconnect the aux battery's negative cable you are effectively removing it from the van's electrical system.Thanks for write up and the information. I hate the ESS too and especially that you can't turn it off so it stays off. I've almost programmed myself to push the button to disable ESS very time I start the car. But sometimes I forget until I come to a stop and the engine shuts off.
Question. If you disconnect the negative terminal to the AUX battery will it still charge/stay charged?
True, but it should hold it's current charge for a good amount of time, at least a couple of months if the battery is good. The nice thing is that in a pinch, it could even be connected to jump a slightly low mainNo, it can't stay charged. When you disconnect the aux battery's negative cable you are effectively removing it from the van's electrical system.
Yeah, but I'm not sure I want to disconnect the AUX battery and then have it die or have it's life span shortened from lack of being charged. I get not wanting to have to deal with the ESS, but is disconnecting the AUX battery really the best solution in the long run. At least for me it probably isn't.True, but it should hold it's current charge for a good amount of time, at least a couple of months if the battery is good. The nice thing is that in a pinch, it could even be connected to jump a slightly low main![]()
It's not odd. There was a wiring change that made the system more complicated to access in 2018. The SmartStopStart system only works on 2018 and newer. And (as noted on their web site) it will only work on Pacificas that have the third row USB ports. This eliminates the L, LX, and Touring Plus model.My thought is a plug in start stop module is the best route, but not necessarily the cheapest. In addition to the Smart Stop Start device, I see that there is also one sold by Autostop Eliminator. 2017 Chrysler Pacifica Autostop Eliminator. It's a little less expensive than the Smart Stop Start device at $99.99. Has anyone tried this device? The website says it only works on a 2017 Pacifica and not later models. That seems odd.
What I meant by being odd is that you would think the ESS system would have been the same for all year model Pacificas. That explains the difference in the two systems as well as why one plug in only works on 2017 models and the other works on later models.It's not odd. There was a wiring change that made the system more complicated to access in 2018. The SmartStopStart system only works on 2018 and newer. And (as noted on their web site) it will only work on Pacificas that have the third row USB ports. This eliminates the L, LX, and Touring Plus model.
Excellent post—thank you!EDIT: I want to be clear that this does not disable ESS. Simply disconnecting the AUX battery will disable ESS, but that will throw an error. Doing the following has no affect on ESS, it will continue to work as normal, just off the main battery. If you want to disable ESS, that is a different subject.
ANOTHER EDIT: Please seat your fuses- open your fuse block and simply press down on every fuse, you'll be surprised how many click into place. This has been reported to solve many gremlins, and the 90 seconds it takes is worth ruling it out
I have both a wrangler and pacifica running the same dual battery system with ESS. I don't like ESS and disable it every time, and installed a smart start stop on the pacifica so its always disabled. I also really don't like the dual battery setup - I understand the idea behind it but the engineers really messed up when they decided to leave the batteries in parallel when the engine is off, thus a bad battery takes them both down. I also wonder if the AUX batteries get overcharged due to being charged as long as the main is being charged, thus causing them to fail prematurely.
So, a quick overview of the dual battery system on your pacfica: The main battery is used for starting the engine, and the aux battery is used for running the electronics when the ESS shuts off the engine during a stop. By doing so, it preserves your main battery to start the engine back up, something that's pretty important when in traffic. The part that separates the batteries is the Power Control Relay (PCR). When you press the start button, the computer sends a signal to the PCR to separate the batteries, and then checks the voltage to ensure that the AUX battery has voltage to power everything during an ESS stop. This AUX voltage check takes 1/10 of a second or less, so you don't notice it, but if the computer doesn't get full voltage, it disables ESS and you get an error message. This is why simply disconnecting the AUX battery doesn't really work - you'll get an error message every time you start. If this doesn't bother you, than go for it and it will also disable ESS (I ran my wrangler like this for a few months). Although, if you go this route, and wish to reconnect the AUX, you will need to disconnect both batteries for a few minutes first to erase the error, or use a code reader to clear it.
So, to not receive the error, you need to disconnect the PCR. What we are doing here is removing the signal wire that tells the PCR to separate the batteries. Now, when the computer tells the PCR to separate the batteries, the PCR doesn't get the message, leaves both batteries connected, and that is the voltage the computer reads. With the PCR unplugged and the AUX disconnected, the computer is reading the voltage from the main battery when it thinks it is reading from the AUX.
Now that you understand how the system works and what we are doing to bypass it, lets get started:
Open the hood and remove the airbox connector to service the batteries. To remove the airbox, refer to the picture below for the screw / bolts needed (each one is circled in yellow). The airbox cover might be 8MM and not 10MM, I can't remember. The PCR that needs to be unplugged is circled in red. If you have small hands or a really talented you might be able to unplug the PCR without removing the airbox, but it only takes a few minutes and gives you much more room.
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Now that everything is removed, you can easily access the PCR. You want to unplug the signal wire shown below. To do so you need to pop the gray tab out, then squeeze the connector as you pull it off. DO NOT FORCE IT!!! You don't want to break this. It can be a bit difficult, but not overly so. See below, and while I think the posts I labeled as "don't touch" are negatives so it should be fine, its best not to touch them anyway.
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Now all you have to do is disconnect the negative from the AUX battery, wrap it in electrical tape to be safe, and you are done. I zip tied mine down to keep it out of the way.
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Then put the airbox back together and you are good to go, running on a single battery the way it should beJust remember to put it all back if you go to the dealer for anything!