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How to: Disconnect AUX battery and run just off the main with no errors! PICS!

55088 Views 111 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  cbrenthus
EDIT: I want to be clear that this does not disable ESS. Simply disconnecting the AUX battery will disable ESS, but that will throw an error. Doing the following has no affect on ESS, it will continue to work as normal, just off the main battery :). If you want to disable ESS, that is a different subject.

ANOTHER EDIT: Please seat your fuses- open your fuse block and simply press down on every fuse, you'll be surprised how many click into place. This has been reported to solve many gremlins, and the 90 seconds it takes is worth ruling it out ;)

I have both a wrangler and pacifica running the same dual battery system with ESS. I don't like ESS and disable it every time, and installed a smart start stop on the pacifica so its always disabled. I also really don't like the dual battery setup - I understand the idea behind it but the engineers really messed up when they decided to leave the batteries in parallel when the engine is off, thus a bad battery takes them both down. I also wonder if the AUX batteries get overcharged due to being charged as long as the main is being charged, thus causing them to fail prematurely.

So, a quick overview of the dual battery system on your pacfica: The main battery is used for starting the engine, and the aux battery is used for running the electronics when the ESS shuts off the engine during a stop. By doing so, it preserves your main battery to start the engine back up, something that's pretty important when in traffic. The part that separates the batteries is the Power Control Relay (PCR). When you press the start button, the computer sends a signal to the PCR to separate the batteries, and then checks the voltage to ensure that the AUX battery has voltage to power everything during an ESS stop. This AUX voltage check takes 1/10 of a second or less, so you don't notice it, but if the computer doesn't get full voltage, it disables ESS and you get an error message. This is why simply disconnecting the AUX battery doesn't really work - you'll get an error message every time you start. If this doesn't bother you, than go for it and it will also disable ESS (I ran my wrangler like this for a few months). Although, if you go this route, and wish to reconnect the AUX, you will need to disconnect both batteries for a few minutes first to erase the error, or use a code reader to clear it.

So, to not receive the error, you need to disconnect the PCR. What we are doing here is removing the signal wire that tells the PCR to separate the batteries. Now, when the computer tells the PCR to separate the batteries, the PCR doesn't get the message, leaves both batteries connected, and that is the voltage the computer reads. With the PCR unplugged and the AUX disconnected, the computer is reading the voltage from the main battery when it thinks it is reading from the AUX.

Now that you understand how the system works and what we are doing to bypass it, lets get started:

Open the hood and remove the airbox connector to service the batteries. To remove the airbox, refer to the picture below for the screw / bolts needed (each one is circled in yellow). The airbox cover might be 8MM and not 10MM, I can't remember. The PCR that needs to be unplugged is circled in red. If you have small hands or a really talented you might be able to unplug the PCR without removing the airbox, but it only takes a few minutes and gives you much more room.
44531



Now that everything is removed, you can easily access the PCR. You want to unplug the signal wire shown below. To do so you need to pop the gray tab out, then squeeze the connector as you pull it off. DO NOT FORCE IT!!! You don't want to break this. It can be a bit difficult, but not overly so. See below, and while I think the posts I labeled as "don't touch" are negatives so it should be fine, its best not to touch them anyway. EDIT: I was reviewing a wiring diagram and it looks like these are actually positive, so absolutely don't touch them (or disconnect both batteries before doing this procedure, which is a good idea anyway). I'm not impressed that FCA didn't make these red and/or cover them.

44532


Now all you have to do is disconnect the negative from the AUX battery, wrap it in electrical tape to be safe, and you are done. I zip tied mine down to keep it out of the way.

44533


Then put the airbox back together and you are good to go, running on a single battery the way it should be ;) Just remember to put it all back if you go to the dealer for anything!
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EDIT: I want to be clear that this does not disable ESS. Simply disconnecting the AUX battery will disable ESS, but that will throw an error. Doing the following has no affect on ESS, it will continue to work as normal, just off the main battery :). If you want to disable ESS, that is a different subject.

ANOTHER EDIT: Please seat your fuses- open your fuse block and simply press down on every fuse, you'll be surprised how many click into place. This has been reported to solve many gremlins, and the 90 seconds it takes is worth ruling it out ;)

I have both a wrangler and pacifica running the same dual battery system with ESS. I don't like ESS and disable it every time, and installed a smart start stop on the pacifica so its always disabled. I also really don't like the dual battery setup - I understand the idea behind it but the engineers really messed up when they decided to leave the batteries in parallel when the engine is off, thus a bad battery takes them both down. I also wonder if the AUX batteries get overcharged due to being charged as long as the main is being charged, thus causing them to fail prematurely.

So, a quick overview of the dual battery system on your pacfica: The main battery is used for starting the engine, and the aux battery is used for running the electronics when the ESS shuts off the engine during a stop. By doing so, it preserves your main battery to start the engine back up, something that's pretty important when in traffic. The part that separates the batteries is the Power Control Relay (PCR). When you press the start button, the computer sends a signal to the PCR to separate the batteries, and then checks the voltage to ensure that the AUX battery has voltage to power everything during an ESS stop. This AUX voltage check takes 1/10 of a second or less, so you don't notice it, but if the computer doesn't get full voltage, it disables ESS and you get an error message. This is why simply disconnecting the AUX battery doesn't really work - you'll get an error message every time you start. If this doesn't bother you, than go for it and it will also disable ESS (I ran my wrangler like this for a few months). Although, if you go this route, and wish to reconnect the AUX, you will need to disconnect both batteries for a few minutes first to erase the error, or use a code reader to clear it.

So, to not receive the error, you need to disconnect the PCR. What we are doing here is removing the signal wire that tells the PCR to separate the batteries. Now, when the computer tells the PCR to separate the batteries, the PCR doesn't get the message, leaves both batteries connected, and that is the voltage the computer reads. With the PCR unplugged and the AUX disconnected, the computer is reading the voltage from the main battery when it thinks it is reading from the AUX.

Now that you understand how the system works and what we are doing to bypass it, lets get started:

Open the hood and remove the airbox connector to service the batteries. To remove the airbox, refer to the picture below for the screw / bolts needed (each one is circled in yellow). The airbox cover might be 8MM and not 10MM, I can't remember. The PCR that needs to be unplugged is circled in red. If you have small hands or a really talented you might be able to unplug the PCR without removing the airbox, but it only takes a few minutes and gives you much more room.
View attachment 44531


Now that everything is removed, you can easily access the PCR. You want to unplug the signal wire shown below. To do so you need to pop the gray tab out, then squeeze the connector as you pull it off. DO NOT FORCE IT!!! You don't want to break this. It can be a bit difficult, but not overly so. See below, and while I think the posts I labeled as "don't touch" are negatives so it should be fine, its best not to touch them anyway. EDIT: I was reviewing a wiring diagram and it looks like these are actually positive, so absolutely don't touch them (or disconnect both batteries before doing this procedure, which is a good idea anyway). I'm not impressed that FCA didn't make these red and/or cover them.

View attachment 44532

Now all you have to do is disconnect the negative from the AUX battery, wrap it in electrical tape to be safe, and you are done. I zip tied mine down to keep it out of the way.

View attachment 44533

Then put the airbox back together and you are good to go, running on a single battery the way it should be ;) Just remember to put it all back if you go to the dealer for anything!
Just tried this on my 17 pacifica and i cant get the vehicle to crank , any tips ?
Just tried this on my 17 pacifica and i cant get the vehicle to crank , any tips ?
Probably should have just left the battery in and not messed with anything...
Probably should have just left the battery in and not messed with anything...
you must work for chrysler .
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you must work for chrysler .
No just not into mildly butchering and altering a new Luxury vehicle unnecessarily then having to reverse it should they need to take the vehicle in for service for fear of warranty issues when all you need to do is pay $89-99 for a small battery every 2 or 3 years. If people can't afford that then maybe they should ride a motorcycle.
Just tried this on my 17 pacifica and i cant get the vehicle to crank , any tips ?
Any luck yet? Do the lights come on and it just won't crank, or is nothing happening?

Also, I just had my main battery die a few weeks ago. I replaced with the bigger, non ESS battery and removed the AUX permanently.
Any luck yet? Do the lights come on and it just won't crank, or is nothing happening?

Also, I just had my main battery die a few weeks ago. I replaced with the bigger, non ESS battery and removed the AUX permanently.
yea i did the same thing you did , my main battery was dead so i jus replaced it and got rid of the auxillary one . havnt had any issues yet but i will post something as soon as i do lol
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yea i did the same thing you did , my main battery was dead so i jus replaced it and got rid of the auxillary one . havnt had any issues yet but i will post something as soon as i do lol
Did you get the bigger battery? I did, and there is a tab in the tray that separates the 2 batteries. I was able to put the battery in on top of the tab and still secure it, but I'm wondering if I should cut the tab off with a dremel or something so it doesn't crack the case of the battery?
no i didnt the bigger battery , just an original one that fit the vehicle . do you have to get a bigger battery when u delete the auxillary battery from the vehicle ? now im scared lol
no i didnt the bigger battery , just an original one that fit the vehicle . do you have to get a bigger battery when u delete the auxillary battery from the vehicle ? now im scared lol
No you do not need a bigger battery, if you eliminated the Aux battery then the ESS feature will not fuction and the main battery will work just like it always did.
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No need for the bigger battery, I ran for years on the regular. But the bigger battery has a little more reserve power in the case of an emergency and keeping the lights on, and might last longer. But it also might not.
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No you do not need a bigger battery, if you eliminated the Aux battery then the ESS feature will not fuction and the main battery will work just like it always did.
If they followed the steps outlined in the first post of this thread, ESS remains fully functional. Like the OP @cbrenthus has already stated, this mod removes the aux battery from the electrical system and tricks the computer into thinking it's still connected. This allows everything to function normally with only the main battery being connected.

While it's not necessary to install a larger battery, the additional reserve capacity it has would be beneficial. Having said that, simply replacing the Mopar H6 battery with an aftermarket one usually adds 20% more reserve capacity. The Mopar battery has a 100 minute Reserve Capacity rating while most aftermarket batteries are rated for 120 minutes.
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If the Aux battery is removed, can a bigger battery, like H7, H8 or even a H9, be installed since the battery tray has more space after Aux battery is vacant?


...................

While it's not necessary to install a larger battery, the additional reserve capacity it has would be beneficial. Having said that, simply replacing the Mopar H6 battery with an aftermarket one usually adds 20% more reserve capacity. The Mopar battery has a 100 minute Reserve Capacity rating while most aftermarket batteries are rated for 120 minutes.
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If the Aux battery is removed, can a bigger battery, like H7, H8 or even a H9, be installed since the battery tray has more space after Aux battery is vacant?
Yes, but there is a tab in the way that can easily be dremelled off ;)
Is the tab on the batterry or on the tray? Also what is the max battery size (H7, H8 or H9) can be fitted if the "tab" is trimmed?

Yes, but there is a tab in the way that can easily be dremelled off ;)
Is the tab on the batterry or on the tray? Also what is the max battery size (H7, H8 or H9) can be fitted if the "tab" is trimmed?
On the tray. I don't know the max size, I swear I put in an H7, but my receipt says H6. Weird, I'll check later.
Just did a little searching, and the h6 and h7 have the same width and height, but the H7 is an inch and a half longer, which there is plenty of room for once the AUX is gone. However, I don't think you could go wider easily, which means H7 is the max as the H8 is 1/8" wider. It might fit, but could also be tough to get the tie down on.

Maybe go to a battery store and see if they'll let you try a few different sizes.
I also did a google search, H6 and H8 have same width: 6.875 inch and same height: 7.5 inch, so H8 could be the max size fitted in battery tray without "cutting".

H7 Width is 6.85 inch, it is OEM fitting without "Stop & Start" option; H9 is "super" L, H and W.

H8 should be a perfect OEM battery even with "Stop & Start" (without Aux battery) option




Just did a little searching, and the h6 and h7 have the same width and height, but the H7 is an inch and a half longer, which there is plenty of room for once the AUX is gone. However, I don't think you could go wider easily, which means H7 is the max as the H8 is 1/8" wider. It might fit, but could also be tough to get the tie down on.

Maybe go to a battery store and see if they'll let you try a few different sizes.
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I followed the OP's instructions to run only off the main battery. Initially, ESS stated "Battery Charging" so I hooked up my Schumacher 1304 battery charger which reported a battery charge of 71% / 12.5V. I let charge to 100% / 12.7V. After just a few days of driving, the ESS was back to "Battery Charging." Hooking up the 1304 again, it now shows 66% / 12.4V. The trips I am taking are mostly fairly short milk runs to pick up the kids from school but the auxiliary electronics I am running are pretty bare bones at this time of year (i.e., no A/C). I swung by Advance Auto Parts and had them test the main battery, and it tested good. Does this level of discharge make sense?
EDIT: I want to be clear that this does not disable ESS. Simply disconnecting the AUX battery will disable ESS, but that will throw an error. Doing the following has no affect on ESS, it will continue to work as normal, just off the main battery :). If you want to disable ESS, that is a different subject.

ANOTHER EDIT: Please seat your fuses- open your fuse block and simply press down on every fuse, you'll be surprised how many click into place. This has been reported to solve many gremlins, and the 90 seconds it takes is worth ruling it out ;)

I have both a wrangler and pacifica running the same dual battery system with ESS. I don't like ESS and disable it every time, and installed a smart start stop on the pacifica so its always disabled. I also really don't like the dual battery setup - I understand the idea behind it but the engineers really messed up when they decided to leave the batteries in parallel when the engine is off, thus a bad battery takes them both down. I also wonder if the AUX batteries get overcharged due to being charged as long as the main is being charged, thus causing them to fail prematurely.

So, a quick overview of the dual battery system on your pacfica: The main battery is used for starting the engine, and the aux battery is used for running the electronics when the ESS shuts off the engine during a stop. By doing so, it preserves your main battery to start the engine back up, something that's pretty important when in traffic. The part that separates the batteries is the Power Control Relay (PCR). When you press the start button, the computer sends a signal to the PCR to separate the batteries, and then checks the voltage to ensure that the AUX battery has voltage to power everything during an ESS stop. This AUX voltage check takes 1/10 of a second or less, so you don't notice it, but if the computer doesn't get full voltage, it disables ESS and you get an error message. This is why simply disconnecting the AUX battery doesn't really work - you'll get an error message every time you start. If this doesn't bother you, than go for it and it will also disable ESS (I ran my wrangler like this for a few months). Although, if you go this route, and wish to reconnect the AUX, you will need to disconnect both batteries for a few minutes first to erase the error, or use a code reader to clear it.

So, to not receive the error, you need to disconnect the PCR. What we are doing here is removing the signal wire that tells the PCR to separate the batteries. Now, when the computer tells the PCR to separate the batteries, the PCR doesn't get the message, leaves both batteries connected, and that is the voltage the computer reads. With the PCR unplugged and the AUX disconnected, the computer is reading the voltage from the main battery when it thinks it is reading from the AUX.

Now that you understand how the system works and what we are doing to bypass it, lets get started:

Open the hood and remove the airbox connector to service the batteries. To remove the airbox, refer to the picture below for the screw / bolts needed (each one is circled in yellow). The airbox cover might be 8MM and not 10MM, I can't remember. The PCR that needs to be unplugged is circled in red. If you have small hands or a really talented you might be able to unplug the PCR without removing the airbox, but it only takes a few minutes and gives you much more room.
View attachment 44531


Now that everything is removed, you can easily access the PCR. You want to unplug the signal wire shown below. To do so you need to pop the gray tab out, then squeeze the connector as you pull it off. DO NOT FORCE IT!!! You don't want to break this. It can be a bit difficult, but not overly so. See below, and while I think the posts I labeled as "don't touch" are negatives so it should be fine, its best not to touch them anyway. EDIT: I was reviewing a wiring diagram and it looks like these are actually positive, so absolutely don't touch them (or disconnect both batteries before doing this procedure, which is a good idea anyway). I'm not impressed that FCA didn't make these red and/or cover them.

View attachment 44532

Now all you have to do is disconnect the negative from the AUX battery, wrap it in electrical tape to be safe, and you are done. I zip tied mine down to keep it out of the way.

View attachment 44533

Then put the airbox back together and you are good to go, running on a single battery the way it should be ;) Just remember to put it all back if you go to the dealer for anything!
Thanks for the instructions. I followed them to run only off the main battery. Initially, ESS stated "Battery Charging" so I hooked up my Schumacher SC1304 battery charger which reported a battery charge of 71% / 12.5V. I let it charge to 100% / 12.7V. After just a few days of driving, the ESS was back to "Battery Charging." Hooking up the 1304 again, it now shows 66% / 12.4V. The trips I am taking are mostly fairly short to pick up the kids from school. That said, the auxiliary electronics I am using are pretty bare bones at this time of year (i.e., just the radio; no A/C). I swung by Advance Auto Parts and had them test the main battery, and it tested good. Does this level of discharge make sense to anyone?
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I followed the OP's instructions to run only off the main battery. Initially, ESS stated "Battery Charging" so I hooked up my Schumacher 1304 battery charger which reported a battery charge of 71% / 12.5V. I let charge to 100% / 12.7V. After just a few days of driving, the ESS was back to "Battery Charging." Hooking up the 1304 again, it now shows 66% / 12.4V. The trips I am taking are mostly fairly short milk runs to pick up the kids from school but the auxiliary electronics I am running are pretty bare bones at this time of year (i.e., no A/C). I swung by Advance Auto Parts and had them test the main battery, and it tested good. Does this level of discharge make sense?


Thanks for the instructions. I followed them to run only off the main battery. Initially, ESS stated "Battery Charging" so I hooked up my Schumacher SC1304 battery charger which reported a battery charge of 71% / 12.5V. I let it charge to 100% / 12.7V. After just a few days of driving, the ESS was back to "Battery Charging." Hooking up the 1304 again, it now shows 66% / 12.4V. The trips I am taking are mostly fairly short to pick up the kids from school. That said, the auxiliary electronics I am using are pretty bare bones at this time of year (i.e., just the radio; no A/C). I swung by Advance Auto Parts and had them test the main battery, and it tested good. Does this level of discharge make sense to anyone?
Can you confirm that you did disconnect the Aux Battery? If not, that could be messing up your battery readings, and the testing that was done by Advance Auto Parts.
Can you confirm that you did disconnect the Aux Battery? If not, that could be messing up your battery readings, and the testing that was done by Advance Auto Parts.
I did disconnect the AUX battery. In fact, I removed it from the vehicle entirely. No need to drive around with a disconnected battery, I figure.
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