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Discussion Starter #1
Read many threads. Some have said theirs preconditions the interior every time off of the level 2 charger.

I'm in wisconsin. Temp is around 15-20 degrees now. Whenever i remote start the van, the ICE turns on. I was hoping it would heat the steering wheel and interior on the level 2 charger.

The manual says, "While plugged in the remote start feature for the vehicle may not always start the engine."

Does anyone have the conditions required to start or pre-condition interior just by the level 2 charger and not ICE?
 

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I live in the wrong part of the country to test this but here is what the glossary document in the Facebook Pacifica Hybrid group has to say about that:

Pittman Method: A method developed by group member David Pittman to turn on the accessories and HVAC of the PacHy without turning the van to “Run”. If external environmental factors dictate, remote starting the PacHy, even with it plugged in, will turn on the ICE. The Pittman Method is performed by pushing the “Start” button twice WITHOUT touching the brake pedal. This will cause the van to run accessories and turn on climate control. This effectively heats the van in cold weather from the wall outlet (resistant heat will draw power from the traction battery. The traction battery will start to charge since it is not full and it’s plugged in.)
 

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If you push the start button twice without putting your foot on the brake it will put the car in "run" mode... I believe without the engine running.

I'm not sure if this will turn on the heater(s), but worth a try. Unfortunately you can't do that remotely that I'm aware of.
I'm pretty sure the ICE will start with the remote start if it's below 40 degrees.

Depending on your cost of gas vs electricity, it may be less expensive to have the car warm up using the ICE while plugged in.

Edit: Didn't notice AZBean responded :)
 

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But, as I mentioned...

I would try to figure out your cost comparison on running the ICE vs using the electricity to heat the car.

Also, I think if it's cold enough and you're warming up the car on electricity only, it may be using more energy than the on-board charger can supply (even with a level 2)... so you may also be reducing your electric only range when you go to drive it.


I actually want to do the reverse... I want the ICE to come on to heat the car up when it's just above 40F. As I'm pretty sure it cost me more to heat the car up using electricity than it does using gas when it's between 40-50 degrees, based on my local gas and electric prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I live in the wrong part of the country to test this but here is what the glossary document in the Facebook Pacifica Hybrid group has to say about that:

Pittman Method: A method developed by group member David Pittman to turn on the accessories and HVAC of the PacHy without turning the van to “Run”. If external environmental factors dictate, remote starting the PacHy, even with it plugged in, will turn on the ICE. The Pittman Method is performed by pushing the “Start” button twice WITHOUT touching the brake pedal. This will cause the van to run accessories and turn on climate control. This effectively heats the van in cold weather from the wall outlet (resistant heat will draw power from the traction battery. The traction battery will start to charge since it is not full and it’s plugged in.)
I'll give that a try. When you push the start button twice without touching the break, does the check engine light come on and does the car ding? I think i did that twice yesterday and my heart sank, as I figured something broke with the check engine light on. I turned the van off, turned back on (probably with my foot now on the brake) and the check engine light went away.

But, as I mentioned...

I would try to figure out your cost comparison on running the ICE vs using the electricity to heat the car.

Also, I think if it's cold enough and you're warming up the car on electricity only, it may be using more energy than the on-board charger can supply (even with a level 2)... so you may also be reducing your electric only range when you go to drive it.


I actually want to do the reverse... I want the ICE to come on to heat the car up when it's just above 40F. As I'm pretty sure it cost me more to heat the car up using electricity than it does using gas when it's between 40-50 degrees, based on my local gas and electric prices.
If i knew how much gas was consumed at idle for 10 minutes of remote starting, i could perhaps figure out the cost comparison; however, this would require going out to the car and kind of defeats the purpose of having the remote start.

I've found 5-10 minutes of remote start, and the car is toasty (compared to the other vehicles we have), so i'll probably just let it do its thing and live with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I live in the wrong part of the country to test this but here is what the glossary document in the Facebook Pacifica Hybrid group has to say about that:

Pittman Method: A method developed by group member David Pittman to turn on the accessories and HVAC of the PacHy without turning the van to “Run”. If external environmental factors dictate, remote starting the PacHy, even with it plugged in, will turn on the ICE. The Pittman Method is performed by pushing the “Start” button twice WITHOUT touching the brake pedal. This will cause the van to run accessories and turn on climate control. This effectively heats the van in cold weather from the wall outlet (resistant heat will draw power from the traction battery. The traction battery will start to charge since it is not full and it’s plugged in.)
don't people do this Pittman Method to keep the car heating on electricity while plugged into an RV outlet and sleeping in the car?
 

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I'll give that a try. When you push the start button twice without touching the brake, does the check engine light come on and does the car ding? I think i did that twice yesterday and my heart sank, as I figured something broke with the check engine light on. I turned the van off, turned back on (probably with my foot now on the brake) and the check engine light went away.
It is normal for the check engine light to come on when it is in this on-but-not-ready-to-drive state. I do it all the time when tinkering with the UConnect system. The ding I think you are referring to is just the seat belt warning.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is normal for the check engine light to come on when it is in this on-but-not-ready-to-drive state. I do it all the time when tinkering with the UConnect system. The ding I think you are referring to is just the seat belt warning.
Whew. so many people complaining about their car starting on fire, or axles breaking, uconnect not working, i was hoping i didn't have a serious problem. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Whew. so many people complaining about their car starting on fire, or axles breaking, uconnect not working, i was hoping i didn't have a serious problem. /forum/images/PacificaForums/smilies/tango_face_wink.png
Really, there's very few complaining about those anomalous issues. Most are sailing down the road happily./forum/images/PacificaForums/smilies/tango_face_angel.png

Well that's the problem with online forums I suppose. More likely to have enthusiasts posting about problems trying to resolve them or gain clarity on the issue. You're probably right, how many thousand of these vans are being happily driven without issue and never post on here.
 

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Yeah, I have been doing the "Pittman" method lately to warm up my car, but still opening my garage first.

The problem is that my van is in a garage, so if the engine is running the the garage that is bad. I have the van plugged into a level 2 charger, and I do not care how fast it warms up, just don't try to kill me.
 

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I'll give that a try. When you push the start button twice without touching the break, does the check engine light come on and does the car ding? I think i did that twice yesterday and my heart sank, as I figured something broke with the check engine light on. I turned the van off, turned back on (probably with my foot now on the brake) and the check engine light went away.



If i knew how much gas was consumed at idle for 10 minutes of remote starting, i could perhaps figure out the cost comparison; however, this would require going out to the car and kind of defeats the purpose of having the remote start.

I've found 5-10 minutes of remote start, and the car is toasty (compared to the other vehicles we have), so i'll probably just let it do its thing and live with it.

Right... I'm making the assumption that using the ICE for heating at idle is more cost effective (seems intuitive), but I don't really know.

It would be nice if there was a way to input your gas and electric costs, and then the car would determine what's more effective... but I suspect that's not high up on Chrysler's priority list for enhancements.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I have been doing the "Pittman" method lately to warm up my car, but still opening my garage first.

The problem is that my van is in a garage, so if the engine is running the the garage that is bad. I have the van plugged into a level 2 charger, and I do not care how fast it warms up, just don't try to kill me.
even running the van in the garage with the door open is bad. there's a pressure differential between your garage and the outside air. Exhaust doesn't like to leave the garage unless forced out, albeit, open garage is much better.....just a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Right... I'm making the assumption that using the ICE for heating at idle is more cost effective (seems intuitive), but I don't really know.

It would be nice if there was a way to input your gas and electric costs, and then the car would determine what's more effective... but I suspect that's not high up on Chrysler's priority list for enhancements.
yeah i really don't know. I bet the eledctric heater has a higher efficiency of turning energy into heat.

an ICE has to use gas to turn a bunch of stuff, and then the waste is the heat. Probably not an efficient heater.

maybe i'm totally wrong though.
 

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The ICE is called on in cold weather to heat the cabin when it's called for, as well as condition the batteries. The heat as a by-product from combustion is quicker at warming from a "deeper" cold rather than the electric elements, which as mentioned above will absorb some of the electric mileage.

The ICE, when the car is sitting still, will also generate power to run the electric heaters at the same time, or charge the battery if it is not full.

In mild to warmer weather the remote start may not turn on the ICE if there is not a high demand for heat. I can't say specifically but I think this happens when the temps are closer to the battery's optimal operating temperature range.

In summer when remote start would activate the AC to cool the interior I have not had the ICE turn on (that I can recall). The AC is electrically driven and as such can run independently on electricity from the ICE as heat from the ICE isn't being called for either HVAC or the battery.

This is based on my experience and observations. I hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The ICE is called on in cold weather to heat the cabin when it's called for, as well as condition the batteries. The heat as a by-product from combustion is quicker at warming from a "deeper" cold rather than the electric elements, which as mentioned above will absorb some of the electric mileage.

The ICE, when the car is sitting still, will also generate power to run the electric heaters at the same time, or charge the battery if it is not full.

In mild to warmer weather the remote start may not turn on the ICE if there is not a high demand for heat. I can't say specifically but I think this happens when the temps are closer to the battery's optimal operating temperature range.

In summer when remote start would activate the AC to cool the interior I have not had the ICE turn on (that I can recall). The AC is electrically driven and as such can run independently on electricity from the ICE as heat from the ICE isn't being called for either HVAC or the battery.

This is based on my experience and observations. I hope it helps.
Awesome explanation! The ICE does warm up the van quite fast. I find it only needs 5 min remote start from sitting all night.

Thanks again.
 

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It is normal for the check engine light to come on when it is in this on-but-not-ready-to-drive state. I do it all the time when tinkering with the UConnect system. The ding I think you are referring to is just the seat belt warning.
I currently have a GM car and it always turns the check engine light on when in accessory only mode. Its just letting you know that the engine has not been started (almost all the lights are lit on the dash during this I believe).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I currently have a GM car and it always turns the check engine light on when in accessory only mode. Its just letting you know that the engine has not been started (almost all the lights are lit on the dash during this I believe).
well that makes sense. I was like, WTF, turned it off, turned it back on and the engine came on. lol guess it worked to let me know something was amiss.
 

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yeah i really don't know. I bet the eledctric heater has a higher efficiency of turning energy into heat.

an ICE has to use gas to turn a bunch of stuff, and then the waste is the heat. Probably not an efficient heater.

maybe i'm totally wrong though.
The electric heater is more efficient at putting the heat directly where it needs to go... but possibly at a higher cost than the ICE, even with losses... at today's gas prices.

And yeah... The ICE it puts out a lot of heat in short order.
ICE's are essentially "heat engines" - they convert the heat of combustion to motive energy. They're actually only about 25%-50%(at best) efficient at converting the energy in gasoline to motive energy. The rest is basically all heat... of course a lot of that heat energy is shot out the tail-pipe.... so, yeah, hard to know what's more cost effective.
 

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even running the van in the garage with the door open is bad. there's a pressure differential between your garage and the outside air. Exhaust doesn't like to leave the garage unless forced out, albeit, open garage is much better.....just a heads up.


Thanks Steffen , I know and I can watch the exhaust blow into the garage and into my face. Such a sweet smell /s

I only run for a couple minutes because this problem and I now use the Pittman method


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