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kWh charging capacity

9K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  m0ebius604 
#1 ·
For those of you that have a metered car charger, how much are you seeing put into the vehicle? Just installed our JuiceBox and we are seeing 12.2 to 12.8 so far.
 
#3 ·
Using the OEM EVSE on a 120v outlet (L1), I consistently see 15.2 kwh for a full charge. There's energy/efficiency lost there; I just build it into my data calculations when I calculate overall savings over gas.
 
#5 ·
Is it cold enough that it's spending energy doing battery conditioning or something? I didn't think the usable capacity was anywhere near 15kWh.
 
#6 ·
Is it cold enough that it's spending energy doing battery conditioning or something? I didn't think the usable capacity was anywhere near 15kWh.
I was confused regarding capacity initially as well. The power meter I use to measure electricity usage is measuring total electricity used, but not all of it is going into the vehicle; efficiency loss accounts for ~2-3 kwh. For my own cost and gas-equivalency calculations, I'm equating 15kwh to 25 miles real-world usage. (Essentially, I'm paying for 15kwh to go roughly 25 miles, which is about how much I get for a full "tank" of electricity-only driving.)
 
#19 ·
I have a 2018 Limited. My first hyrbrid battery had problems and had to be replaced. I never got more than 12.2kWhr, using either my Chargepoint CPH32 or Chargepoint public charging network, when I started at 1% charge and went to full. The battery started degrading and I was getting about 10kWhr for a full charge right before it failed. Chrysler replaced the hybrid battery in November, last year. Since then I have been consistently charging in the 13.2 to 13.6 kWhr for a full charge.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Probably not.

Many have reported they are charging at 10.5-11kWh like you since the vehicle launched. It just doesn't make sense on the surface..But we’ve confronted this with many details with Chrysler. There are vehicles like yours out there that are healthy, so I dont think its a omen.

with the factory scantool heres what I have readout on my vehicle.

355v @ 47Ah = 16,685Wh (16.7kWh)
25% absolute HV SOC zero charge
90% absolute HV SOC full charge
(Total of 35% protected capacity)
10,845Wh (10.84kWh) useable

Once losses are included I get the rated 40kWh/100mi base. Now I can still get over 40mi range with mine by changing my driving style, but my battery always takes 12.5kWh or more to charge depending on the charge rate.

If your getting 10.5-11kWh with losses and still seeing 31mi range, then somehow you vehicle is way more efficient than mine at around 33kWh/100mi base.

I would Love to find out whats different here. I’ve always attributed climate, but apparently not.

If you get the alfaOBD going maybe we can explorer what the difference really is?
 
#24 ·
When the display shows "0" battery and the actual is 25% the van is operating as a hybrid. In this mode it will continue to deplete and recharge (using the ICE) so there could be a significant variation actual depletion level versus the nominal 10,845Wh. I don't know if mOebius64 is able to pull this battery information. Unfortunately we will never find the algorithm details such as what controls when the ICE turn-on turn-off.
 
#25 ·
11.8 kWh +/- .2 pretty consistently on a L2 Chargepoint at home according to the app. Usually takes about 2h. Everybody's numbers seem higher. What is considered poor enough to get a battery replacement? I'm almost at 100k now and I think the battery warranty is at 150k right? I thought my EV range has been reduced, but it's hard to tell with the cold weather effects.
 
#31 ·
The charger is within the car. As an electronic engineer I would design the charger for high efficiency under maximum power conditions ie level 2 at 30 amp. Under these conditions the nominal power is 230v x 30 amp = 6.9kW. I would be very pleased to achieve a 95% efficiency within the electronics. Thus electronic loss would be 345 watt. When L1 charging the power drops to 115v x 12 amp = 1.38 Kw, unfortunately only a portion of the electronic loss will decrease, my guess is the loss would drop to ~170 watt resulting in an electronic charging efficiency of 88%.
Notes:
1. These simple calculations ignore the losses internal to the battery or the need for heating or cooling the battery.
2. Charging at L2 saves energy
3. Using the supplied L1 charge controller (the actual charger is in the car) on 230v saves both time and energy, there are descriptions on the Forum of doing this.
 
#32 · (Edited)
345w is only 23 amps on the 12v side. Seems very reasonable.

Dont forget the AC/DC converter which is very efficient itself, still needs supporting systems awake to facilitate charging on top of its internal component losses. Also, The units are kWh, we need to multiply the charge time in hours to these values.

170w x 16hrs = 2.72kWh
345w x 2.5hr = 0.86kWh

This ICE vehicle is 100% charged and key off, but still awake. (Its a new vehicle I charged Overnight) Drops to 15amp as it nears sleep mode.

43206
 
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