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The reported kWhrs being reported are probably only accurate to 5-10% and very difficult for the home owner to verify. (Don't be fooled by high precision readouts.)
 

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So is my battery having a problem since it's never more than low 12's?
Probably not.

Many have reported they are charging at 10.5-11kWh like you since the vehicle launched. It just doesn't make sense on the surface..But we’ve confronted this with many details with Chrysler. There are vehicles like yours out there that are healthy, so I dont think its a omen.

with the factory scantool heres what I have readout on my vehicle.

355v @ 47Ah = 16,685Wh (16.7kWh)
25% absolute HV SOC zero charge
90% absolute HV SOC full charge
(Total of 35% protected capacity)
10,845Wh (10.84kWh) useable

Once losses are included I get the rated 40kWh/100mi base. Now I can still get over 40mi range with mine by changing my driving style, but my battery always takes 12.5kWh or more to charge depending on the charge rate.

If your getting 10.5-11kWh with losses and still seeing 31mi range, then somehow you vehicle is way more efficient than mine at around 33kWh/100mi base.

I would Love to find out whats different here. I’ve always attributed climate, but apparently not.

If you get the alfaOBD going maybe we can explorer what the difference really is?
 

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When the display shows "0" battery and the actual is 25% the van is operating as a hybrid. In this mode it will continue to deplete and recharge (using the ICE) so there could be a significant variation actual depletion level versus the nominal 10,845Wh. I don't know if mOebius64 is able to pull this battery information. Unfortunately we will never find the algorithm details such as what controls when the ICE turn-on turn-off.
 

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11.8 kWh +/- .2 pretty consistently on a L2 Chargepoint at home according to the app. Usually takes about 2h. Everybody's numbers seem higher. What is considered poor enough to get a battery replacement? I'm almost at 100k now and I think the battery warranty is at 150k right? I thought my EV range has been reduced, but it's hard to tell with the cold weather effects.
 

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How long does the charge take? We should be able to take 12A*120V*time in h to see if your kWh number is realistic.
I estimate that it takes 10.5-11 hrs to top off. No idea what efficiency I should be at.
 

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That would be 15.1-15.8 kWh at 120V, 12A. So that's pretty consistent with what it's telling you.
But common knowledge is that only 12-13kwh is available for use (and thus, available to re-charge), no? The fact that I'm utilizing that much energy can't mean that I've expended that much energy the day before?
 

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But common knowledge is that only 12-13kwh is available for use (and thus, available to re-charge), no? The fact that I'm utilizing that much energy can't mean that I've expended that much energy the day before?
Indeed, but the car can use energy while you're charging. 3kWh over 11h is only 270W. The car is awake while charging, right? It doesn't seem impossible that it's consuming 270W during that time, especially if it's doing something to condition the battery, run the battery coolant pump and the battery heater.

Do people in general see 12 kWh charges with L1 EVSEs or is it normal that they take longer?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have a 2018 Limited. My first hyrbrid battery had problems and had to be replaced. I never got more than 12.2kWhr, using either my Chargepoint CPH32 or Chargepoint public charging network, when I started at 1% charge and went to full. The battery started degrading and I was getting about 10kWhr for a full charge right before it failed. Chrysler replaced the hybrid battery in November, last year. Since then I have been consistently charging in the 13.2 to 13.6 kWhr for a full charge.
That seems to be a full 1kWh higher than a lot of us. How are you measuring?
 

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The charger is within the car. As an electronic engineer I would design the charger for high efficiency under maximum power conditions ie level 2 at 30 amp. Under these conditions the nominal power is 230v x 30 amp = 6.9kW. I would be very pleased to achieve a 95% efficiency within the electronics. Thus electronic loss would be 345 watt. When L1 charging the power drops to 115v x 12 amp = 1.38 Kw, unfortunately only a portion of the electronic loss will decrease, my guess is the loss would drop to ~170 watt resulting in an electronic charging efficiency of 88%.
Notes:
1. These simple calculations ignore the losses internal to the battery or the need for heating or cooling the battery.
2. Charging at L2 saves energy
3. Using the supplied L1 charge controller (the actual charger is in the car) on 230v saves both time and energy, there are descriptions on the Forum of doing this.
 

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345w is only 23 amps on the 12v side. Seems very reasonable.

Dont forget the AC/DC converter which is very efficient itself, still needs supporting systems awake to facilitate charging on top of its internal component losses. Also, The units are kWh, we need to multiply the charge time in hours to these values.

170w x 16hrs = 2.72kWh
345w x 2.5hr = 0.86kWh

This ICE vehicle is 100% charged and key off, but still awake. (Its a new vehicle I charged Overnight) Drops to 15amp as it nears sleep mode.

43206
 
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