[PacificaMinivanFan]

To date there have been over a dozen engine failures reported by forum members (failed head gaskets leading to coolant in the cylinders leading to misfires; some have cracked blocks). It would be nice to know if this is a systemic problem, or if it is related to preventable causes.

It appears most reported failures were caused by overheating. Many overheating events are caused by:

• low coolant level
• faulty thermostat
• faulty radiator fan
• faulty head gasket

None of the reports have said anything about faulty thermostats or radiator fans, so that leaves low coolant level and faulty head gaskets, and sometimes the first leads to the other.

But I'd like to introduce another possibility:
- incorrect coolant added to the system

There are documented cases from 20 years ago of various GM head gaskets failing due to the wrong coolant used to top off the reservoir. The resulting combination of approved and unapproved coolant created a chemical combination that became deadly to head gaskets. Thousands upon thousands failed.

Could that be happening here? The Pacifica owner's manual is very specific about the kind of coolant that is supposed to be used. What happens when unauthorized coolant is used in our Pentastars?

To those who have a pretty good background on the Pentastar V-6, your thoughts and ideas would be most appreciative. Perhaps there are other possible causes of overheating that could be causing these failures.

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

Failing head gasket or cracked block into coolant chamber will cause overheating regardless of the coolant level and there is nothing that can be done to prevent this.

If people top up their coolant or stupid mechanics use that "any color any brand" 💩 , it will cause silica dropout when mixed with OAT causing hot spots that could cause failures in these areas. Silica dropout turns coolant into a gel and in severe cases rock-solid, especially in tight tolerances.

This currently is the same issue, millage, and side of the engine as the previous run of failures last decade. Which indicates the same possible casting failures as before.

As for coolant concerns, the engineers did not put this in the owner's manual several times for no reason.

"Mixing of engine coolant (antifreeze) other than
specified Organic Additive Technology (OAT)
engine coolant, may result in engine damage
and may decrease corrosion protection. OAT
engine coolant is different and should not be
mixed with Hybrid Organic Additive Technology
(HOAT) engine coolant or any “globally compatible”
coolant. If a non-OAT engine coolant is
introduced into the cooling system in an emergency,
the cooling system will need to be
drained, flushed, and refilled with fresh OAT
coolant (conforming to MS.90032), by an authorized
dealer as soon as possible.

This vehicle has not been designed for use with
propylene glycol-based engine coolant. Use of
propylene glycol-based engine coolant is not
recommended.

Some vehicles require special tools to add
coolant properly. Failure to fill these systems
properly could lead to severe internal engine
damage. If any coolant is needed to be added to
the system, please contact an authorized
dealer.

Mixing engine coolant types is not recommended
and can result in cooling system
damage. If HOAT and OAT coolant are mixed in
an emergency, have an authorized dealer drain,
flush, and refill with OAT coolant (conforming to
MS.90032) as soon as possible.

CAUTION!

 Mixing of engine coolant (antifreeze) other than specified Organic Additive Technology (OAT) engine coolant (antifreeze), may result in engine damage and
may decrease corrosion protection. Organic Additive Technology (OAT) engine coolant is different and should not be mixed with Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) engine coolant (antifreeze) or any “globally compatible” coolant (antifreeze). If a non-OAT engine coolant (antifreeze) is introduced into the
cooling system in an emergency, the cooling system will need to be drained, flushed, and refilled with fresh OAT coolant (conforming to MS.90032), by an
authorized dealer as soon as possible.

 Do not use water alone or alcohol-based engine coolant (antifreeze) products. Do not use additional rust inhibitors or antirust products, as they may not be
compatible with the radiator engine coolant and may plug the radiator.

 This vehicle has not been designed for use with propylene glycol-based engine coolant (antifreeze). Use of propylene glycol-based engine coolant (antifreeze)
is not recommended."

 

[CANADAHYBRIDGUY]

The blocks and building processes are are numbered and will look at this as well as build date for parts from block to head to gasket . Engine coolant will be taken and looked at for certain particulars . I also assume that if you build over 1 million blocks that there is potential for variance and assembling disparities. But honestly no matter what manufacturer will tel that replacing a few motors in excess of building over a million of them isn’t anything new . Unfortunate indeed , but nothing new and concerning for businesses and manufacturing.

 

[PacificaMinivanFan]

This currently is the same issue, millage, and side of the engine as the previous run of failures last decade. Which indicates the same possible casting failures as before.

Is there any way to find out if this is indeed the situation here?

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

Is there any way to find out if this is indeed the situation here?

Might be a year or two before this comes full circle as this just started again within the last few months. The last round took a year and a half. That is when Chrysler extended the then-current warranty of 5 years/100,000 to 10 years/150,000 miles on that specific side of the engine only for the affected year models and VINs.

My 2014 T&C had 148,000 miles on it when I sold it and it ran as it did the day I got it. That was a great vehicle.

 

[freddief73]

The very fact that anyone needs to top off their coolant in the first place indicates there's a pre-existing issue. Unless someone is topping off with plain, old-fashioned green coolant, I doubt using incorrect coolant is a factor. You really have to go out of your way to make this mistake. If you've been to an auto parts store within the last ten years, you already know that they stock very little of the traditional coolant because there isn't much demand for it. Most manufacturers haven't factory-filled their vehicles with the old green stuff in over 20 years. GM in particular started using Dexcool (silicate-free, OAT-based) in most 1995 models. Most of the universal/all makes & models coolants are also silicate-free and OAT-based anyways, so using them won't hurt anything because the coolant Mopar currently uses is also silicate-free and OAT-based.

I suspect the a leaky EGR cooler is to blame for some failures. One such case was reported here. A coolant leak at the oil cooler/filter housing is also possible and likely to go unnoticed because of it's placement. An oil leak there also often goes unaddressed because it's hidden under the intake manifold so you can't easily perform a visual inspection. The housing doesn't even need to crack/break. The seals that go between the block and the oil cooler often fail. The STAR case linked here mentions oil leaks, but coolant leaks are also possible since the coolant passages use similar seals.

 

[vdubpower]

we just got our van back today
P0303 , they did plugs, coils, injectors and still had code. Checked compression and leakdown. they were fine. It failed the block test.
they call it a warped head, off a slight bit on measurement. so they replaced the head entirely.
After reading thru here i am concerned about cylinder cracks but i guess i am safe so far.
No ever overheating in the van

 

[Badge56]

When my van was new. 2017, I noticed that the coolant as on the lo side. Purchased and added the correct coolant and amount. Has been OK ever since. ???

 

[hawkfan]

I recently dropped my van with ~67k off to have them search for a coolant leak. Only symptom I had was a low coolant level that I had to top-off. No sputtering, codes or CEL, heat blew hot and no spills on my garage floor. They diagnosed it as a coolant leak at the auxiliary water pump so they're replacing that and all the gaskets/seals for it and the various parts pulled to get to it. Hopefully that will fix my issue and I'll keep prodding along. Aside from a replacement transmission at about 3k for hard shifting I haven't had any issues and this has been about as reliable as the Odyssey we traded in for it. Fortunately I have a lifetime MaxCare plan so that might be paying for itself on this repair.

 

[freddief73]

I recently dropped my van with ~67k off to have them search for a coolant leak. Only symptom I had was a low coolant level that I had to top-off. No sputtering, codes or CEL, heat blew hot and no spills on my garage floor. They diagnosed it as a coolant leak at the auxiliary water pump so they're replacing that and all the gaskets/seals for it and the various parts pulled to get to it. Hopefully that will fix my issue and I'll keep prodding along. Aside from a replacement transmission at about 3k for hard shifting I haven't had any issues and this has been about as reliable as the Odyssey we traded in for it. Fortunately I have a lifetime MaxCare plan so that might be paying for itself on this repair.

Auxiliary water pump? Is yours a hybrid? If not, do you know where that part is located on the vehicle? An educated guess is that it's used to pump coolant back to the rear heater core.

 

[CANADAHYBRIDGUY]

Might be a year or two before this comes full circle as this just started again within the last few months. The last round took a year and a half. That is when Chrysler extended the then-current warranty of 5 years/100,000 to 10 years/150,000 miles on that specific side of the engine only for the affected year models and VINs.

My 2014 T&C had 148,000 miles on it when I sold it and it ran as it did the day I got it. That was a great vehicle.

Some people don’t realize that 3.6 in their vans are it the identical motor that’s in the Pacifica . They just assume because it’s a 3.6 it’s the same motor .

 

[navderek]

I recently purchased a 2022 Chrysler Pacifica Touring-L and I had the check engine light come on THE DAY I DROVE IT HOME FROM THE DEALERSHIP. Turns out it was having cylinder misfires... That was about 3 weeks ago now...I finally got it back from the dealership today. The mechanic explained that the Cam phasers / sprockets and Cam actuators had to be replaced. Now the problem is gone and everything seems OK. This just blows my mind that a new vehicle would have these type of engine problems. All I can think is that with the problems they had with the union and the factory being shut down so much last year that they must of just went through a batch of old parts at the bottom of a bin to get these built. I don't see any other explanation really.

Anyhow, I hope this post ends up helping someone who might be in the same situation. I never though I would have engine problem on a BRAND NEW vehicle. Next time I'll be taking a lot of test drives before I sign any paperwork..

Some comments were made about how they cheapened the trims for the 2022 Model year. That's totally true AND the prices went up. I guess it's just the state of the world right now unfortunately.

Take care.

 

[PacificaMinivanFan]

I understand some of the Pentastar 3.6 V-6 motors are made in Mexico. If true, is there a way to find out if any are in the Pacifica, like checking a certain digit in the VIN or something? And, if true, is there a way to determine if these are the ones that are failing?

 

[airboyd]

We have a 2017 Limited and just had intermittent check engine and P0303 code.

Took it in within 3 days of it starting. It had been running rough for quite sometime. All maintained at Mopar dealers.

They verified the code and cylinder misfire. Failed block test. 12% leakage through head gasket.

Glad we had the Mopar Warranty. Just a little over 73K miles on the van.

 

[estatz]

Long time lurker, thanks to all for the info here. Unfortunately I think I might be in this camp as well with a 2017 Touring L Plus with ~66k miles. Have been topping off coolant, got a P0301 that has persisted through a new spark plug and swapping coils. Taking it in to the dealer as the next step. Have been doing oil changes myself religiously, no extended warranty. First Chrysler-- maybe should have bought a Honda. @ChryslerCares

 

[PacificaMinivanFan]

Long time lurker, thanks to all for the info here. Unfortunately I think I might be in this camp as well with a 2017 Touring L Plus with ~66k miles. Have been topping off coolant, got a P0301 that has persisted through a new spark plug and swapping coils. Taking it in to the dealer as the next step. Have been doing oil changes myself religiously, no extended warranty. First Chrysler-- maybe should have bought a Honda. @ChryslerCares

Hi @estatz. Please let us know what the resolution is. Perhaps if you get definitive information that it is a major engine repair (blown head gasket, cracked head, etc), you might submit a report to the NHTSA (click on it). The more reports, the better the odds you and others will be successful in a case against Chrysler to recover your expenses, and the better the chance Chrysler will issue yet another extended warranty to all who have the Pentastar V-6.

 

[ChryslerCares]

Long time lurker, thanks to all for the info here. Unfortunately I think I might be in this camp as well with a 2017 Touring L Plus with ~66k miles. Have been topping off coolant, got a P0301 that has persisted through a new spark plug and swapping coils. Taking it in to the dealer as the next step. Have been doing oil changes myself religiously, no extended warranty. First Chrysler-- maybe should have bought a Honda. @ChryslerCares

Sorry to hear you're experiencing this! If you need additional technical assistance alongside your dealer, feel free to send us a PM.

Sarah
Chrysler Cares

 

[Mike_K]

Guess I'm in the same camp here.

Bought my 2018 Pacifica with 5 k miles. Had to top-off the coolant right after I received the car. Didn't suspect anything. Just a regular service. I used the right coolant according to the users manual.

Now with ~40k miles on it, have the misfire P0303 code. And still the coolant level issue.

Had replaced the plug and the coil pack – didn't resolve the issue.

Made the overnight pressure test on the cooling system – shown no pressure drop.

Not really sure if those two (cylinder misfire and coolant) are even related.

Have no warranty on it, as I have imported the car to Europe.

Now I honestly don't know what to do. Most mechanics I spoke to, advised to replace the engine as the cheapest solution. I can get here a “low mileage” engine from a salvage for ~1400 $ + replacement. Without a warranty. Hoping to get a capable one.

As an alternative – I can try to “fix” the engine? Replacing head gasket?

At this moment I'm about to fix a date on a mechanic for the engine replacement.

Any suggestions?
Can't really find the words to say how disapionted I am with this engine.

 

[ccartel]

I'd like to add my voice to the chorus. 2017 Touring L with 55K miles.

Misfire code, replaced plug and swapped coil for cylinder 1 with no result. Did compression test today, no compression in cylinder 1. Going to get a scope and take a look in the cylinder today or tomorrow.

As other's have said, I can't describe my disappointment with this engine. This thread is labeled as "few engine failures" but I have a feeling this is going to keep snowballing. I imagine most people with such catastrophic engine failure at this relatively low mileage are in the no mans land between their warranty coverage and the end of their financing and it puts us in an extremely difficult financial situation. @ChryslerCares

 

[PacificaMinivanFan]

This thread is labeled as "few engine failures" but I have a feeling this is going to keep snowballing.

Hi ccartel. Thanks for your post. I'm the OP who gave it this title and I fear you may be right.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble, I wonder if you would file a report with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.