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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

So I noticed when I first purchased the van that the coolant level in the reservoir was non-existent. I topped it off with compatible MS-12106 coolant. Today I checked the coolant level in the morning again and there was nothing in the reservoir once more. It's been approximately 4K miles. I topped it off to between the min and max level. I drove it around and actually could hear the heater core swishing as air was being dragged through it (I know from prior experience this is normal with low coolant levels). I revved the engine a few times and it circulated the new coolant, of course dropping the level in the tank a little while doing it. I let it rest until it was cooled to ambient temp and topped it off once again. This time putting a marker line where the level was at.

I can't find any leaks at all. No spots in the driveway, no wet areas in the engine compartment. I also sniffed the tailpipe and couldn't detect any hint of coolant, although today being cooler (high 50s, lower 60s) there was a slight wisp of white smoke. Engine oil level appears to be normal. There's no white sludge under the oil cap, and it doesn't seem like I'm gaining any coolant within the oil.

I guess my question is, is there someone here who could tell me exactly where this coolant may be going? I'm usually pretty good at sniffing issues out, but this one has me stumped. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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I'm sure you have seen the threads about head gaskets and engines needing replacement around 60-70K miles. Here is one example.... Warped Engine Block?!

Have you determined how long it is taking for the level to go down?
 

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Hello All,

So I noticed when I first purchased the van that the coolant level in the reservoir was non-existent. I topped it off with compatible MS-12106 coolant.
What "compatible MS12106 coolant" did you use?
 

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How much did you add each time? Did you drive it and check after the first time you added? POSSIBLE that when you added the first time, there were air pockets and it showed low the next time. Why was it low to begin with? Who knows? If you didn't have to add much, POSSIBLE it was filled when ambient temp was very high, so it took less volume at your cooler temps.
I'd monitor the level closely before I'd worry.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm sure you have seen the threads about head gaskets and engines needing replacement around 60-70K miles. Here is one example.... Warped Engine Block?!

Have you determined how long it is taking for the level to go down?
I have seen many posts about this in the past. I'm hoping that's not it. It's got 79K on it right now. Bought it with approximately 74K.


What "compatible MS12106 coolant" did you use?
There is no local Chrysler dealership around here. I used PEAK OAT MS-12106 compatible 50/50 coolant. Dealer stated it was ok to use last time I was in to them. They are around 50 miles from my area. This is what I purchased per dealer who stated it was ok and the product description states "This product is compatible with FCA/Chrysler MS-12106 which is the 50/50 pre-diluted version.". PEAK OET OAT COOLANT


How much did you add each time? Did you drive it and check after the first time you added? POSSIBLE that when you added the first time, there were air pockets and it showed low the next time. Why was it low to begin with? Who knows? If you didn't have to add much, POSSIBLE it was filled when ambient temp was very high, so it took less volume at your cooler temps.
I'd monitor the level closely before I'd worry.
I've gone through 3/4 of a gallon of coolant since I purchased the van. That's including the initial fill and the fill I did today. I can definitely say it sucked up the first addition of coolant fast. It did the same sound as it did this time which prompted me to check the level. It's a swishing sound under the dash as the coolant is circulated through the heater core.

I'm not sure the background on the van, but when I purchased it there was stored codes for a cylinder 5 misfire/multiple misfires. I'm thinking this engine has already been tampered with and the gasket and head replaced d/t that code which has not come back. Attached is all the codes stored when I first scanned the van upon receiving it.

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I'm not sure the background on the van, but when I purchased it there was stored codes for a cylinder 5 misfire/multiple misfires. I'm thinking this engine has already been tampered with and the gasket and head replaced d/t that code which has not come back. Attached is all the codes stored when I first scanned the van upon receiving it.
AH, it's USED - that changes everything.
Could well be it had head gasket replaced.
Does seem okay now - just monitor coolant.....
 
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Another avenue to go down is the vehicles maintenance record with Chrysler. If you explain to a service tech that you are the new owner trying to get up to speed with service history it could be a good source of info. Especially if you know the original dealer where it received most service and you can get them to give you the records or at least have them review to see if anything stands out.
 

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Once you get a idea of where it is going maybe try a stop leak product...
No no no. Stop leak products, while how well they work can be questionable, are definitely band-aids and not long-term solutions. By plugging the leak they are masking the true underlying issue and I'd only use that in a survival situation to get home.
 

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No no no. Stop leak products, while how well they work can be questionable, are definitely band-aids and not long-term solutions. By plugging the leak they are masking the true underlying issue and I'd only use that in a survival situation to get home.
Agreed never use anything in a container that claims to FIX things. At best it doesn't work or worst case scenario it makes the problem worse.
Harbor Freight sells a test kit that can detect if exhaust fumes are present in the coolant. If that tests positive it well get expensive real fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
AH, it's USED - that changes everything.
Could well be it had head gasket replaced.
Does seem okay now - just monitor coolant.....
Yeah, I hate not knowing the history.

Another avenue to go down is the vehicles maintenance record with Chrysler. If you explain to a service tech that you are the new owner trying to get up to speed with service history it could be a good source of info. Especially if you know the original dealer where it received most service and you can get them to give you the records or at least have them review to see if anything stands out.
I've actually tried that way. The dealer stated they couldn't find any records other than oil changes. Chrysler still doesn't have me listed as the owner of the vehicle in their database so I can't pull the maintenance records up online. I also doubt the work was all done at a Chrysler dealer. I'm thinking Carvana who I purchased it through may have done some of the work if anything on it. I have no clue other than it was in Ohio for a while as far as what dealer was used.

Do a oil change and get a oil analysis
I plan to do that as soon as it's ready for a change. I always send my oil away for analysis. Especially when I have no clue about the history.

Once you get a idea of where it is going maybe try a stop leak product...

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I would never use stop leak for anything. Basically all the radiator stop leak is pepper in a suspension. Bush fix, and temporary at most. The only additives I've used are Lucas oil stabilizer in my older vehicles. I hate products that are advertised as a fix all, but I swear by the Lucas stuff in older vehicles. Works great in derby cars too. I had one vehicle that had no oil pressure at idle and I put Lucas in and went another 20K miles at least on the vehicle with increased oil pressure. The bottom end was worn out and the Lucas gave it that little boost it needed. It had 400K miles on it by the time it was done with a rod through the engine block. It still ran on 3 cylinders and got me home though. I loved those engines. If only Chrysler had something as bullet proof as the old 3.8 GM engines. But I digress....

I'm going to keep an eye on the level. I'm hoping as someone mentioned above that it just wasn't filled correctly if any repairs were done and I'm playing catch up now. I may look into the exhaust gas test kit as well. I'll keep everyone posted. I'm just glad I purchased an extended warranty for that extra piece of mind if things do get expensive.
 
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No no no. Stop leak products, while how well they work can be questionable, are definitely band-aids and not long-term solutions. By plugging the leak they are masking the true underlying issue and I'd only use that in a survival situation to get home.
Maybe that was already used before it was sold to you.
 

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I would spend the money to see if exhaust gases in the cooling water sid. Then you at least have certainty where the cooling water remains.
The shared video from M0Par is very helpful.


Since it is also very warm in Germany at the moment with temperatures over 30° Celsius, I have paid increased attention to the temperature in the engine compartment after parking the vehicle. The rear area of cylinders 1-3-5 is exposed to a lot of accumulated heat. I will now always open the hood after a ride for 5 minutes to reduce this heat. I have also deliberately left the ignition on to see if the radiator fan starts (hood closed). It did not turn on :( For me, this is a very clear design error by the Chrysler engineers, who have installed the engine transversely, instead of longitudinally in the direction of travel. Because of this, the heat accumulates in the rear part of the engine compartment. I have read here in the forum I think nothing about misfires or defective cylinder head gaskets from the bank 2-4-6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Maybe that was already used before it was sold to you.
That thought crossed my mind. There is some sediment in the reservoir, but nothing major though
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would spend the money to see if exhaust gases in the cooling water sid. Then you at least have certainty where the cooling water remains.
The shared video from M0Par is very helpful.


Since it is also very warm in Germany at the moment with temperatures over 30° Celsius, I have paid increased attention to the temperature in the engine compartment after parking the vehicle. The rear area of cylinders 1-3-5 is exposed to a lot of accumulated heat. I will now always open the hood after a ride for 5 minutes to reduce this heat. I have also deliberately left the ignition on to see if the radiator fan starts (hood closed). It did not turn on :( For me, this is a very clear design error by the Chrysler engineers, who have installed the engine transversely, instead of longitudinally in the direction of travel. Because of this, the heat accumulates in the rear part of the engine compartment. I have read here in the forum I think nothing about misfires or defective cylinder head gaskets from the bank 2-4-6.
Thanks for linking to the video. Definitely interesting to know. I would never use it in in a newer vehicle, but it makes me less apprehensive about using it in an old beater.

One thing i have noticed is the fan on this van is extremely loud when it's on and kicks on quite often.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just got back late last night from about a 400 mile round trip. It appears to be holding steady at the correct level right now. I'll continue to keep an eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Then I wish you that it stays that way. But you always have the worst case in mind 🙁
With all the issues I've seen and from what I've heard from people I definitely think of the worst.

I'm thinking this van already had the issue. It was repaired, and it just was never filled properly. I have no idea how to confirm this other than the codes stored in the computer when I first got it. As long as the fix works that they potentially did and it didn't do too much damage I should be good.
 

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I also have a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica that is losing coolant, and missing. Took into the dealer and they pressure test the cooling system, and found no leaks. They also changed number 5 cylinder spark and wire. No more than 3 weeks later we are having the same issues again. They worst part is the van now has 67,000 miles on it, which it means it is no longer covered under the powertrain warranty.
 
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