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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well the title might be slightly off, but minus shipping and taxes, I have spent $1,535.00 trying to figure what I like the most and what gives the best output.

So the parts I have used and tested:
Diode Dynamics HID kit, 6000k bulbs, antiflicker kit, low beams $180.00 (REMOVED)
Diode Dynamics HID kit, 6000k bulbs, antiflicker kit, high beams $180.00 (REMOVED)
Diode Dynamics 4300k HID bulbs, low beam, $40.00 (REMOVED)
Diode Dynamics HID kit, 6000k bulbs, antiflicker kit, fog lights $180.00 (REMOVED)
Diode Dynamics 4300k HID bulbs, fog lights, $40.00 (REMOVED)
Diode Dynamics SL1 LED bulbs, high beams $150.00 (REMOVED)
The Retrofit Source Morimoto 50w, Mopar harness, 5500k bulbs, low beams $165.00 (REMOVED)
GTR Lighting Ultra 2, low beams $199.00 (CURRENT)
GTR Lighting Ultra 2, high beams $199.00 (CURRENT)
GTR Lighting Ultra 2, fogs $199.00 (CURRENT)

So how did this all play out? I purchased Diode Dynamic parts in the past and they have always been good quality. The HID kits are good quality, I just wasn’t getting the brightness I wanted from the low beams. The high beams I thought I could tolerate the warm-up delay, but you really need an instant on-off for effective high beams.

I originally ordered all the Diode Dynamic kits with 6000k bulbs, thinking that they would look close to OEM. I think the projector changes the hue slightly and then ended up being too blue and I’m not going for that look. I ordered replacement 4300k. 4300k is not as white as the LED accents in the headlights, but the light they give off is much more pleasing.

So the high beams were bright when warmed up, but just took too long to warm up. I removed the Diode Dynamic HID kit and replaced them with SL1 LED bulbs. These bulbs are plenty bright and are instant on and off to flash at people and use as a warning.

I was happy with the Diode Dynamic fog lights in 4300k, so those remain on the van.

The low beams is where I put the most work in. I wasn’t impressed with the output from the 35w HID kit, so I decided to order a kit from The Retrofit Source. I went with a 50w ballast and 5500k bulbs. The bulbs tend to lose 1000k when driven at 50w as opposed to 35w. To test my finding and not rely solely on my eyes, I ordered a LUX meter off Amazon and decided to test the lights I had. So the tests were all done 25ft from my garage door, measuring only the driver’s headlight and I searched for the hotspot for each. Here are the results:
OEM Halogens 189LUX
Diode Dynamic SL1 LED 244LUX
Diode Dynamic 35w HID 488LUX
TRS Morimoto 50w HID 897LUX
GTR Lighting Ultra2 817LUX Current

Not exactly surprising results, but they take away the guesswork from how much light is created. So for notes on each, the OEM bulbs are the most yellow and do a marginal job. The LED’s are the simplest installation, nice with color, but there is a shadow of the bulb created on the ground. The 35W kit wasn’t two hard to install. Finding places for the ballasts, igniters and antiflicker modules was time consuming. The 50w kit was the most difficult install. The kit uses a wiring harness that runs off the battery and two decent sized resistors for each headlight. I had to fashion some mounting plates for them to make it easier. The output is worth the extra work though. They throw the furthest and put out a lot of light.

After completing this I realized there was A LOT of light being thrown low. I decided to adjust the headlights up several inches (at 25 feet) and have yet to be flashed even with the 50w kit. This moved the light from directly in front of the van to further down the road.

Hope this can help someone else out and save them from the hassle.
 

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Are you concerned with the 50w HID burning the projector internals ? I read on another forum that TRS said this could happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you concerned with the 50w HID burning the projector internals ? I read on another forum that TRS said this could happen.
The thought has crossed my mind. I could see perhaps extended periods idling without airflow, the whole housing heats up. My theory is that since most of my night driving I am moving at at least 30mph, that constant wind should keep the headlight housing from heating too much. Time will tell. If they do melt, I'll have an excuse to do retrofits :grin2:
 

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The thought has crossed my mind. I could see perhaps extended periods idling without airflow, the whole housing heats up. My theory is that since most of my night driving I am moving at at least 30mph, that constant wind should keep the headlight housing from heating too much. Time will tell. If they do melt, I'll have an excuse to do retrofits :grin2:
FWIW I’ve had the TRS 30w HID kit installed for about a year now. No sign of any issues with the housings. That said, I have no idea how much additional heat is put off by the 50w kit.
 

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The thought has crossed my mind. I could see perhaps extended periods idling without airflow, the whole housing heats up. My theory is that since most of my night driving I am moving at at least 30mph, that constant wind should keep the headlight housing from heating too much. Time will tell. If they do melt, I'll have an excuse to do retrofits :grin2:
:grin2: Been wanting to retrofit my HID Limited headlights with some Halos, demon eyes etc since I owned it. (have retro fitted many other vehicles) .Unfortunately ,Chrysler uses some kind of Permaseal "glue from ****" that makes it EXTREMELY difficult to open these housings without destroying either them, or your hands in the process !!
 

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FWIW I’ve had the TRS 30w HID kit installed for about a year now. No sign of any issues with the housings. That said, I have no idea how much additional heat is put off by the 50w kit.
According to TRS, they get significantly hotter.
 

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Did you have to adjust the collar on the high beam diode dynamic SL1's? I read that they need to be at a 3 and 9 o'clock position?
 

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:grin2: Been wanting to retrofit my HID Limited headlights with some Halos, demon eyes etc since I owned it. (have retro fitted many other vehicles) .Unfortunately ,Chrysler uses some kind of Permaseal "glue from ****" that makes it EXTREMELY difficult to open these housings without destroying either them, or your hands in the process !!
I'd be interested in trying to do the Limited HID's on my 2018 Limited PacHybrid. I'm not sure why they didn't put the HID's in from the factory?
 

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I'd be interested in trying to do the Limited HID's on my 2018 Limited PacHybrid. I'm not sure why they didn't put the HID's in from the factory?
Super easy. Just buy some 55w 6000k kit for under $50. You 100% will need the relay too. It's an under 1 hour job. One headlight is a pain to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you have to adjust the collar on the high beam diode dynamic SL1's? I read that they need to be at a 3 and 9 o'clock position?
I just put them in as they came, and disabled the DRLs.
 

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Super easy. Just buy some 55w 6000k kit for under $50. You 100% will need the relay too. It's an under 1 hour job. One headlight is a pain to get to.
I used to use those $50 eBay kits all the time. Then on my charger I ran into constant issues replacing ballasts and the occasional bulb. I still have a bunch of parts sitting around from VME kits but refuse to use them on anything modern, to each his own though.

Led bulbs seem to be getting better, just watched a video from headlight revolution about a new bulb that looks amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So a little update on how things are holding up. The SL1 highbeams and Diode Dynamic HID fogs are working flawlessly. I recently started having an issue with the Morimoto low beams though. The driver's side light often doesn't fire up on the first try. If I turn the lights off and on 2-3 times it will come one. I measured the voltage and verified that it was getting power yet not lit. I ordered another set of ballasts and igniters, swapped them out and still the same issue. Going to swap the bulbs next and see if that resolves the problem. I don't think it's the harness because I'm getting 12.? volts at the plug. If it was easier I would swap parts left to right and see what follows the problem, might have to do that anyway if the new bulb doesn't work.
 

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FWIW I’ve had the TRS 30w HID kit installed for about a year now. No sign of any issues with the housings. That said, I have no idea how much additional heat is put off by the 50w kit.
A 50W bulb will put out exactly 20W more heat than a 30W... ;)

I don't understand why they say a 50W HID bulb would put out too much heat when it will put out less heat than a 55W halogen...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So the headlight drama continued. I couldn't get the Morimoto 50w kit to work consistently. Either side wouldn’t work when starting the car. I bought new ballasts, ignitors, bulbs, relays, swapped things from side to side and couldn't get anything consistent. I gave up and went back to the Diode Dynamics 35w HID kit...till some new LED bulbs came out.

So I bought a set of GTR Lighting Ultra 2 LEDs and WOW. LED bulbs have come a long way. Install is super easy, no anti-flicker module and the driver fits inside the housing behind the dust cap. I ended up swapping the SL1 high beams also and probably doing the figs soon. They put out 817LUX, so they are nearly as bright as the 50w HIDs.
 
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So the headlight drama continued. I couldn't get the Morimoto 50w kit to work consistently. Either side wouldn’t work when starting the car. I bought new ballasts, ignitors, bulbs, relays, swapped things from side to side and couldn't get anything consistent. I gave up and went back to the Diode Dynamics 35w HID kit...till some new LED bulbs came out.

So I bought a set of GTR Lighting Ultra 2 LEDs and WOW. LED bulbs have come a long way. Install is super easy, no anti-flicker module and the driver fits inside the housing behind the dust cap. I ended up swapping the SL1 high beams also and probably doing the figs soon. They put out 817LUX, so they are nearly as bright as the 50w HIDs.
First thing I'll buy when I receive my van!
 

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I have two pairs of Morimoto LED projectors and a used headlight from ebay in the mail that I'm going to pry apart and do a retrofit with. Why go plug and play when you can make it difficult?!? :cool: I'll post comparisons with the stock halogen projectors when I get them. The stock projectors are low-beam only, right?
 
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