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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Changed the oil today and realized there isn't a sticky for a "how to" for an oil change. There are plenty of threads for how many quarts to add though:grin2:

You'll need 5 or 6 quarts of your favorite brand of 0-20 oil (5 or 6 depending on your latitude divided by the number times the Earth's rotated for that year on the date you changed your oil divided by the number of dogs you own).
I happened to find Castrol edge synthetic in a 5 quart container on sale so that's what I went with. This is not a discussion on what brand is better. Just verify it meets Chrysler MS-6395 specification.

You'll also need a Chrysler 68191349AB Oil Filter. My box said AC instead of AB and had a note for vehicles 2014 or newer and Looked exactly the same as the last AB filter I installed so I went with it.

You'll also need a low profile oil pan if you don't want to lift the van.

Tools for the job are a 24MM socket with a 4" or longer extension to loosen the oil filter cartridge, a 13MM socket for the drain plug, a stubby flat head screwdriver, and a pair of needle nose pliers or something similar to replace the oil cartridge rubber gasket. Alright lets get to it.

Using the screwdriver, loosen the latch on the little door that gives you access to the drain plug. It's located about a foot in from the passenger front tire. I actually pull the cover off completely so I can have unobstructed access to that area.

Using the 13MM, loosen but do not remove the drain plug. Get your low profile oil pan and place it under the plug and then fully remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out. Now go up and remove the oil cap from the top of the engine to allow the oil to drain freely.

When the oil starts trickling out of the drain plug, take the 24MM socket with extension and remove the oil filter cartridge...thanks @Smaz for adding (One tip I can add is that before I loosened the oil filter cap for the first time I put a dot of paint on the cap and the housing.) This way I could tighten the cap to the same spot that it came from the factory, without worrying about over tightening it. You'll most likely not drop any oil If you rotate the cartridge upwards immediately after you remove it.

The filter actually pops into place inside the cartridge so it will take a little force to separate it. Once the filter is removed, drain any residual oil from the bottom of the cartridge. I actually clean mine out of all the old oil but I doubt it makes much of a difference.

Before installing the new filter, use the needle nose pliers to remove the old rubber gasket from the cartridge and then replace it with the new one that came with your filter. Use some oil to lubricate the rubber gasket like you would a gasket on a normal filter. Now take the new filter and snap it into place. If it's installed correctly, it won't fall out when you go to install the cartridge back on the engine. Tighten to spec (anyone have ft-lbs mention it and I'll add it to the the thread).

The old oil should have drained out by now but if it hasn't, go take a beer/beverage break and contemplate stuff. When the oil is completely drained out, replace the oil drain bolt and tighten to spec (Oil Pan Drain Plug: 27 Nm / 20 Ft-lbs. There is a gasket. The Service Manual says: Replace the drain plug and gasket if damaged.) Thanks @seo68 for torque specs and gasket info.

Now that you don't have any more places for oil to leak out, fill to whatever specified quantity you came up with based on the formula above (or add 5 initially, let the van sit for 10 minutes, come back check the oil and add as necessary).

Check for any leaks around the drain plug and then re attach and lock the cover door for the drain plug.

Now go clean up and come back and reset the oil life indicator in the van. It's located in the info menu and you hold "ok" to reset it.

Congratulations, you've changed your own oil. Please don't dispose of the used oil in your own trash. All places that sell oil have to be able to accept old oil for recycling.

Repeat every interval cycle or 12 month or whatever system you use to tell you it's time to change your oil.

Feel free to add suggestions
 

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great writeup

question. why do you have to replace the o ring each time? my dodge journey is the same way.
 

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Nice description of changing your oil from below the car. After seeing the oil filter is top mounted, I use an oil extractor in the oil dipstick tube from the top of the van. After having a total knee replacement, this seems much easier for me. Let negative air pressure be your friend! No more getting under the van to change the oil. Mine takes 6 quarts by the way of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 oil. After the oil is extracted, I just reverse the oil back into the empty oil bottle for recycling.
 

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great writeup

question. why do you have to replace the o ring each time? my dodge journey is the same way.
You don't really have to replace the o-ring each time, but why not? O-rings harden with time and take a set to their installed location. When you remove and reinstall them, they won't sit exactly like they were before, so they won't conform as nicely to the new location as a brand new o-ring would. You probably could get away with reusing the o-ring through multiple oil changes, but each time increases the likelihood that it will start to seep or leak. Knowing this, Mopar supplies a new o-ring with each filter, so it doesn't really make any sense to not change it. You don't save anything except the effort required to remove the old o-ring and install the new one, and that is very modest. If you would really like to build up your o-ring collection so that you have lots of new o-rings in your garage, you could almost certainly get away with replacing the o-ring every other oil change with no ill effect. If I had lost the o-ring that came with a filter, it wouldn't bother me to reuse the existing ring for that one change.
 

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I happened to find Castrol edge synthetic in a 5 quart container on sale so that's what I went with. This is not a discussion on what brand is better. Just verify it meets Chrysler MS-6395 specification.
Excellent write up. One thing though: I don't believe Castrol Edge in the 0W-20 formula is MS-6395 spec'd. See my post here:

http://www.pacificaforums.com/forum/377-engine-technical-discussion/30858-approved-motor-oils-list-[ms-6395].html See page 2.

I hope I am wrong though. But I thought I read it correctly. Thanks again for the great write-up!
 

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irpilot,
Thanks for posting. My first oil change was done by the dealer because FCA was nice enough to send me a coupon for a free oil change. The next oil changes will be done by me. I've always changed my own oil but stopped 2 years ago because the savings with conventional oil at my trusted mechanic just wasn't enough anymore. Plus I'm retired now and scheduling an appointment is easier. But the Pacifica is so easy to do and savings are larger for synthetic oil changes. My wife's F250 will still go to the mechanic.
 

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Great write up! When calculating the amount of oil needed you mentioned dividing by the number of dogs you own. My three dogs weigh about 25 lbs combined, so does that matter? All three don't ride in the car together very often so I'm guessing I'll be closer to 5 quarts?

Thanks again for the write up!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great write up! When calculating the amount of oil needed you mentioned dividing by the number of dogs you own. My three dogs weigh about 25 lbs combined, so does that matter? All three don't ride in the car together very often so I'm guessing I'll be closer to 5 quarts?

Thanks again for the write up!
Lol. You definitely have a tricky dog situation. Glad you got the math to work out. :grin2:
 

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Drain plug torque?

Does anyone know the official drain plug torque for the Pacifica? Is there a crush washer that is installed with the plug?
 

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Oil Pan Drain Plug: 27 Nm / 20 Ft-lbs

There is a gasket. The Service Manual says: Replace the drain plug and gasket if damaged.
 

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I've changed the oil on my 2017 twice now, easy job.
Nice job on the write up, Thank you

Wish I would have thought to match mark the oil filter housing before removing it the first time, that's a good idea.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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Nice description of changing your oil from below the car. After seeing the oil filter is top mounted, I use an oil extractor in the oil dipstick tube from the top of the van. After having a total knee replacement, this seems much easier for me. Let negative air pressure be your friend! No more getting under the van to change the oil. Mine takes 6 quarts by the way of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 oil. After the oil is extracted, I just reverse the oil back into the empty oil bottle for recycling.
I don't think you get as much oil and whatever sludge there might be in the engine out this way. The fast rush of oil out the drain plug gives a good complete drain and takes whatever has settled into the bottom of the pan with it. Sucking it out at a slow rate and not sure exactly where the end of the tube is doesn't do as good a job. Does it matter? I don't know, but it just feels better to me to get a good drain of what is in the engine. I do use oil suction devices where I have no other viable option which is typically on inboard boat engines where space is tight and spillage into the bilge is a big problem.
 

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I don't think you get as much oil and whatever sludge there might be in the engine out this way. The fast rush of oil out the drain plug gives a good complete drain and takes whatever has settled into the bottom of the pan with it. Sucking it out at a slow rate and not sure exactly where the end of the tube is doesn't do as good a job. Does it matter? I don't know, but it just feels better to me to get a good drain of what is in the engine.
You may be right, but my reasoning is this:

1st, there shouldn't be any sludge at all it you are changing your oil when you should.

2nd, if an oil extractor won't pick it up, then neither will the oil pump, and you could run essentially forever with a healthy coat of sludge on the bottom of the oil pan and your engine would never be the wiser.

When I first starting using an extractor, I removed the drain plug a couple of times after extracting just to see what else I would get out, and I got either nothing or next to nothing. There is always a little bit of old oil in an engine after an oil change and I assessed that the very small amount that I might add to that by using an extractor was negligible.
 

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There are videos on Youtube that show there is less oil left in the pan (they pulled the pan, twice!) and there was less oil in the pan with the extractor than with pulling the plug.
Facts are pesky.
 

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Which oil filter?

There's quite a few oil filters out there ranging in price and apparent quality. I saw some interesting ones on Amazon. I'm curious if anyone chooses anything over oem and why?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There's quite a few oil filters out there ranging in price and apparent quality. I saw some interesting ones on Amazon. I'm curious if anyone chooses anything over oem and why?
Which oil filter indeed....thread merged. Search is your friend.
 

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There are videos on Youtube that show there is less oil left in the pan (they pulled the pan, twice!) and there was less oil in the pan with the extractor than with pulling the plug.
Facts are pesky.
indeed they are and I sure wouldn't trust youtube for the facts on everything. If the facts do not make good physical sense they aren't likely to be facts unless the provider comes up with a real description of why this is the case.
 
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