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PHP:
Have done the job twice so far. I just slowly tighten it until it seats. That, along with the rubber ring gasket, keeps it in place. I always try not to overtighten plastic parts.
That's exactly what I do. There's a lot of tension on the cap with the O ring by itself, so once it fully seats it is either sealed or not. I didn't use a torque wrench the time the time that I did it, at this point I don't see a reason to.

I had to do some digging to find the torque spec, the instruction procedure for the oil change said to refer to general engine torque specs, of which there are about 30.
 

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This guy says 25nm with is roughly 18 ft pounds. Thanks for the double source cross reference. I think I saw some canisters with the torque spec embossed on them.

 

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This guy says 25nm with is roughly 18 ft pounds. Thanks for the double source cross reference. I think I saw some canisters with the torque spec embossed on them.

I’ll do ya one better and post my source.
 

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When you change the oil does the oil filter drain or do you end up with a mess on the engine?
 

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When you change the oil does the oil filter drain or do you end up with a mess on the engine?
Is an O-ring at the bottom of the filter, and when you unscrew the housing the filter rises. That dislodges the O-ring and drains the housing into the crankcase. It is the cleanest oil filter change you will ever do.
 

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Is an O-ring at the bottom of the filter, and when you unscrew the housing the filter rises. That dislodges the O-ring and drains the housing into the crankcase. It is the cleanest oil filter change you will ever do.
Fantastic!:smile2:
 

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At what mileage did you guys do your first oil change? We have 3800 miles on our Pacifica and the computer says there's still about 50% oil life remaining. I keep wondering if I should just change it now or go with what the computer says.
 

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It’s not only mileage but time. I looked at my manufacture date as 4/2018 and realized the oil in my van was over 8 months old. I was also always taught to drain a new engine’s oil after the first 500-1000 miles. Cost me 60 bucks and 20 minutes. Very easy oil change. Just do it and reset that counter manually.
 

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It’s not only mileage but time. I looked at my manufacture date as 4/2018 and realized the oil in my van was over 8 months old.....
Same manufacture date as mine and it sat on two lots for over four months. Since I don't drive 8 to 10K miles a year, mine will be changed on the year cycle.
 

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At what mileage did you guys do your first oil change? We have 3800 miles on our Pacifica and the computer says there's still about 50% oil life remaining. I keep wondering if I should just change it now or go with what the computer says.
The manual says not to go over 10k miles between oil changes. It says nothing about when to change the oil before it has reached its first 10k miles. Since the engine uses very high quality synthetic oil from the factory, I didn't change ours until 8,750 miles, but I did change the oil filter at 3,000 miles. It sits on the top of the engine, so one can replace it with a new one without the mess of oil draining everywhere. And then I installed a new oil filter again with the oil change at 8,750 miles. Changing the oil is an easy job, especially if you use an oil extractor that uses vacuum to suck the old oil out via the dip stick opening. It means no need to crawl under the vehicle.

While there, I also removed the engine air filter and vacuumed the debris out of the air box and what little dirt there was on the air filter element itself. Manhandling the top of the air box for the first time was a chore, but should be easier next time after figuring out the best position of the flexible hose when reinstalling it.
 

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Hello irpiolet,

Happy New Year, to everyone. I want to say "WOW", someone who actually has a firm grip on the oil change procedure for the Pentastar 3.5L V6 engine. I truly commend you on your taking the time to write out the procedure in a very clear and concise way that anyone can follow. Having been a Certified Master Technician since 1978, and currently I am very close to those who make the Oil Filter Adapter that sits in the valley of the engine (if you get my drift). I do hope you won't be offended with my refinement additions to your process.

First of all, for the filter, PLEASE, PLEASE, use an original Mopar/Chrysler Parts filter. These engines experience oil leaks that require the owners to take them to the Dealers for service. The Dealers then replace the oil filter housing part which is then tested at FCA with 70-80% passing with no leaks. When the cap is removed from the ones that did leak and the filter inspected, it is an aftermarket filter in more than 90% of the leakers and overall, 65% of the returned parts have aftermarket filters. The majority of the remaining leakers have old cap O-rings left on them from the previous oil change. This is obvious by how flat the O-ring is. The reason the aftermarket filters leak is the cap O-ring is not robust enough or not the same dimension. When removing the filter from the cap, it is important to pull the filter in line with and directly away from the cap. DO NOT USE A PENCIL-SNAP motion, you know, like breaking a stick. If you are not careful, the insides of the cap could become dislodged. It can be reassembled, but a new one is usually easier.

Whew, that was a lot to say for just the filter, but it is the most important part of the engine.

Now on to the particulars of reassembly. The tip of marking the cap thanks to @Smaz to the body for reference is a good hint. Very clever and useful if you do not have access to a torque wrench, but it is always better to use a torque wrench. The torque for the Cap to the Body is - 18.44 FtLbs/221.3 InLbs/25NM. Also, you told everyone to use a 24MM socket, GREAT. The ASE is = to 15/16 and ALWAYS USE A 6 POINT SOCKET to help prevent rounding the Cap Hex.

Now, lets address the devil of all of this - the dreaded oil leak. If you have a leak of ANY fluid from your vehicle, it is always best to introduce DYE. The best is a Dye for that suspected fluid, but a 3 or 4-in-one dye works. the Dye that FCA uses is P/N-CH5010042AC and is around $10 a bottle. Auto part stores also carry dye that is roughly the same price (some may be a smaller amount). Once the dye is in, run the vehicle for at least a half an hour before checking with a Black Light (yes, the same light we old folks used to use in our bedrooms to show the black-light paint we used so our parents wouldn't see). Here is an IMPORTANT TIP: Do Not Wash The Engine Before Using The Dye. Doing so could plug the leak site before it has had a chance to leak out to help find the leak spot.

ZSDSD
 

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I got my oil yesterday and the Mopar filter arrived today. I'm a "tin can" type of filter changer. This thing is a little odd looking. So what is the purpose of the plastic "thing" on one end of the filter. I see it has a very small "O" ring on it.
 

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I got my oil yesterday and the Mopar filter arrived today. I'm a "tin can" type of filter changer. This thing is a little odd looking. So what is the purpose of the plastic "thing" on one end of the filter. I see it has a very small "O" ring on it.
I'm pretty sure the O-ring is for a drain valve that drains the housing when the filter is changed. The only other vehicle I have ever owned with a filter mounted on top of the engine had such a valve, but it was integrated with the housing. If the housing didn't drain, a filter change will be a lot messier of a deal… And that O-ring would seal the housing to maintain proper oil pressure while the engine is running.
 

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I'm pretty sure the O-ring is for a drain valve that drains the housing when the filter is changed.....
Interesting. I guess I will find this change different from the other ones over the last 55 years of oil changes.
In about another month I will hit only 3,000 miles but the oil will be a year old.
 

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......The reason the aftermarket filters leak is the cap O-ring is not robust enough or not the same dimension. When removing the filter from the cap, it is important to pull the filter in line with and directly away from the cap. DO NOT USE A PENCIL-SNAP motion, you know, like breaking a stick. If you are not careful, the insides of the cap could become dislodged. It can be reassembled, but a new one is usually easier.
Very well done write up, but the highlighted part has me confused. "The inside of the cap could be dislodged." What other than the oil filter is inside the cap?
 

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.....You'll need 5 or 6 quarts of your favorite brand of 0-20 oil (5 or 6 depending on your latitude divided by the number times the Earth's rotated for that year on the date you changed your oil divided by the number of dogs you own)....
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All I have is a big black cat. No dogs.

Oh oh. We haven't figured out how many quarts cats are divisible by. I'd say start at 5. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes, check dipstick, if quantity is at the low mark add oil until it's within the hashmarks. Meow.
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The formula works well for cats also. Did the change today and all works well. 5 quarts out, 5 quarts in. Old filter out, new one in. Only two problems I found were the oil plug must have been put in the factory with an impact wrench set at 100 ft lbs. The other was don't bump the engine with your finger. It gets burned.(ouch)
 

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Nice description of changing your oil from below the car. After seeing the oil filter is top mounted, I use an oil extractor in the oil dipstick tube from the top of the van. After having a total knee replacement, this seems much easier for me. Let negative air pressure be your friend! No more getting under the van to change the oil. Mine takes 6 quarts by the way of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 oil. After the oil is extracted, I just reverse the oil back into the empty oil bottle for recycling.
Thank you! I had exactly the same question! I've done it both way on my previous cars and the top way is so much better. Also depending on the weather I feel like it is a good idea to run the engine (in gas mode) for a little bit to make sure the oil is flowing better.
 

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just an FYI, i did my first oil change (7500 miles) yesterday. i bought this fumoto valve that allows adjustment of the spout:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HP5V092/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

anyway, it's a tight fit since the plastic cover is there. it does fit but you have to really angle it the right way to make it work. i am thinking the original F106 (not the SX series, which i have) might fit easier.

otherwise a fairly easy oil change.
 

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What is this with some taking 5 quarts and some taking 6 quarts???
 
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