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Hey guys. Did an oil change yesterday, poured in 5 quarts, and this morning the dipstick reads a quart low (at the bottom dot or dots, below the hashed area). It has been over 12 hours since the vehicle has run. I was about to pour in another quart but decided to surf on the topic first. Manual clearly says 5 quarts, and the oil I drained out fit into the 5 quart jug. I'm still uneasy about leaving it low on the dipstick though. What do you think?
Where was the level on the dipstick before you changed it?
 

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Yeah. the vehicle is level and has been driven several times since fill. It really looks like this thing takes 6 quarts.
 

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What kind of oil did you use? When I changed mine with Mobil 1, the 0W-20 is so light that it looked like the dipstick was dry. I had to use a paper towel and roll the dipstick over it and compare the wet mark on the paper towel to see that it actually had oil on it.
 

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argh, quick question. i just got a certified 19 pacifica. i had the oil changed at 20k. i am religious about doing it every 5k miles, with full synthetic, regardless of what any computer says. i did it the same way in my ford flex, and when they had it apart to change the timing components for me at 125k miles, before my warranty ran out, the tech said it was one of the cleanest engines he ever saw. anyways, i typically drive 25k-30k miles per year, and most of it highway. i know this thing calls for 0w20, for epa bs, but i wanted to use 0w30 full synthetic. i'd give up 1/2 a mpg to better protect the engine..... so i had the shop use the mopar oil filter, and mopar 0w30 full synthetic oil (68444159aa). when i did a quick google search originally, i thought it said it was ms6395 compatible, but i just looked at a bottle, and it says ms13340. is this going to be a problem in the future, or should i find a 0w30 full synthetic from mopars list of approved ms6395?
 

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argh, quick question. i just got a certified 19 pacifica. i had the oil changed at 20k. i am religious about doing it every 5k miles, with full synthetic, regardless of what any computer says. i did it the same way in my ford flex, and when they had it apart to change the timing components for me at 125k miles, before my warranty ran out, the tech said it was one of the cleanest engines he ever saw. anyways, i typically drive 25k-30k miles per year, and most of it highway. i know this thing calls for 0w20, for epa bs, but i wanted to use 0w30 full synthetic. i'd give up 1/2 a mpg to better protect the engine..... so i had the shop use the mopar oil filter, and mopar 0w30 full synthetic oil (68444159aa). when i did a quick google search originally, i thought it said it was ms6395 compatible, but i just looked at a bottle, and it says ms13340. is this going to be a problem in the future, or should i find a 0w30 full synthetic from mopars list of approved ms6395?
ONLY use 0W20. When 0W30 heats up the molecules expand larger increasing viscosity. Thicker oil can screw up a lot of things. One is variable valve timing. When out of specifications the timing won't work right as the solenoids/phasers are designed for specific viscosity and oil pressure. These engines also have specially coated main and rod bearings that require specific tolerances. In today's cars running anything other than what is specified on the engine and in the manual can really mess up your engine and cost you a lot of money. Dump the 0W30 asap and put what is specified. 0W30 is not going to give you any more protection vs 0W20 and the long term can be detrimental to the life of your engine.

Perhaps this will help you understand this.

 

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Hey guys, I just updated my oil evacuator. My old Mityvac conked out on me. Developed some kind of air leak which made changes really really long. This is a nice upgrade as the capacity is bigger and it has a pneumatic option included,

 

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15L. It’s physically not that much bigger than the mityvac.
 
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