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I got a second fuel refresh mode on the same tank of gas! **** what is going on? it made fuel refresh mode when full and yesterday another fuel refresh mode with the tank just above half...
 

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I got a second fuel refresh mode on the same tank of gas! **** what is going on? it made fuel refresh mode when full and yesterday another fuel refresh mode with the tank just above half...
Well, to be fair, that’s not telling us much. Depending on how you drive your car you could have filled it to full six months ago and it’s just now down to half a tank.
 

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Well, to be fair, that’s not telling us much. Depending on how you drive your car you could have filled it to full six months ago and it’s just now down to half a tank.
I filled up the gas tank on March 9th.

I have to add more details, well what i found today, i am french Canadian, so my minivan is set to French, in French the cluster message says (free translation) ''Fuel refresh Mode, engine running'' It add to confusion here. I decided to set the language to English and the message now says ''Fuel and Oil Refresh Mode, engine running''. So, no matter if it's a Oil Refresh or Fuel Refresh, The message in cluster will always tell ''Fuel and Oil Refresh Mode, engine running''.

Now, witch one is it? I think Fuel refresh mode will be trigerred on when the last gas fill up is many weeks back, i read somewhere it is 6 weeks or so. And what will trigger the ''Oil Refresh'' will be the number of ICE run cycles, witch depend on external temperature in first place. Where i live, we got more minus 2C temperature than above these days. Then i got an Oil Refresh, as far as i know.
 

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I filled up the gas tank on March 9th.

I have to add more details, well what i found today, i am french Canadian, so my minivan is set to French, in French the cluster message says (free translation) ''Fuel refresh Mode, engine running'' It add to confusion here. I decided to set the language to English and the message now says ''Fuel and Oil Refresh Mode, engine running''. So, no matter if it's a Oil Refresh or Fuel Refresh, The message in cluster will always tell ''Fuel and Oil Refresh Mode, engine running''.

Now, witch one is it? I think Fuel refresh mode will be trigerred on when the last gas fill up is many weeks back, i read somewhere it is 6 weeks or so. And what will trigger the ''Oil Refresh'' will be the number of ICE run cycles, witch depend on external temperature in first place. Where i live, we got more minus 2C temperature than above these days. Then i got an Oil Refresh, as far as i know.
This is just a guess but perhaps the temperatures have varied above and below the dew point such that the computer thinks that there is the danger of condensation in the oil. Just out of curiosity, what does the display say in French (without translation)?

If the ambient temperatures in the evening have been consistently dropping below the dew point then condensation may be occurring. I suppose it’s possible that the van even has a relative humidity sensor, who knows?
 

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Just out of curiosity, what does the display say in French (without translation)?

Mode entretien essence, moteur en marche.

As i said, it adds to confusion.

I am 100% sure i got an OIL refresh mode because of many ICE run cycles. Not any chances to be a fuel refresh mode because not enough time as gone since last gas fill up.
 

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Mode entretien essence, moteur en marche.

As i said, it adds to confusion.

I am 100% sure i got an OIL refresh mode because of many ICE run cycles. Not any chances to be a fuel refresh mode because not enough time as gone since last gas fill up.
Supposedly part of the fuel and oil refresh mode is also a refresh mode for the spark plugs. If the system thinks they might be clogged with deposits it will run the ICE to burn them off. At least that’s what has been mentioned in these forums.
 

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So my wife has gotten the refresh mode a lot this winter. I assume from reading above it has a lot to do with the cold and that she takes lots of short trips (her work has a charge station so is able to top off there. This past week we had a planned long trip coming up so we took the van to get it out of refresh mode. We topped off the tank 6+ gallons and with a full battery we started driving. What frustrated me while driving is that I noticed that the hybrid battery was draining down during the drive. Is this normal when driving on gas at interstate speeds during the refresh that the main hybrid battery drains down as well? If so was kind of frustrating knowing that when we got to our destination there was no chance of driving around in the town on battery and we would be on gas the whole time until we got home and could charge up again.
 

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So my wife has gotten the refresh mode a lot this winter. I assume from reading above it has a lot to do with the cold and that she takes lots of short trips (her work has a charge station so is able to top off there. This past week we had a planned long trip coming up so we took the van to get it out of refresh mode. We topped off the tank 6+ gallons and with a full battery we started driving. What frustrated me while driving is that I noticed that the hybrid battery was draining down during the drive. Is this normal when driving on gas at interstate speeds during the refresh that the main hybrid battery drains down as well? If so was kind of frustrating knowing that when we got to our destination there was no chance of driving around in the town on battery and we would be on gas the whole time until we got home and could charge up again.
Hi McBadger, Short trips definitely cause the FORM to occur. I get FORM
in Winter that lasts multiple drives.

3 things here. The engine running needs to dump the power somewhere. The management system is smart and will do what it needs, I dont bother charging when I’m in FORM to push through FORM quickly.

This vehicle doesnt work like you describe - “battery hold“ is a feature that sets the Charge Sustain threshold to 80% in other vehicles to hold the battery at 80% until you get off the highway so you can resume Electric driving. Yeah, we dont have that.

FORM is a maintenance routine, not a convenience function by far.

Lastly, FORM has multiple causes. Oil wetness (water) from short trips and humidity, Fuel has become stale, and sparkplug de-carboning.

I have been driving on the same tank of fuel for over 8months without refresh, others have gone over a year. I would say its rarely fuel related. dont waste your time getting a top up, when FORM occurs, stop charging get your oil temps up as described here and go for a cruise on the highway.
 

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I have a hard time clearing FORM if it's too cold, because driving in cold air keeps the oil temp down.

Here is my tried and true method for clearing FORM when it's cold out.

I put the front wheels of my car in the garage, the rest outside. I put the car in drive and push the brake with my left foot. Then I give it just a tiny amount of throttle with my right foot. Just enough to get the rpm's up. I wait for the oil guage to reach 200, which takes10 minutes or so. When it hits 200, I back out of the driveway and drive around for 5 minutes in town. Then I go home, park, and get out with the car in the driveway. I give it a good 5 minutes, then pull it in and plug in.

Yes, it's a minor pain the ass, but ut clears FORM every time. I'm not sure of there are steps I could skip, but if the rain dance brings rain, leave it alone.
 

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Here’s what I do , I start it drive it plug it in and the. Drive it some more . I wait to see if and when it needs gas and then fill it up accordingly. I go for the yearly synthetic oil and mopar filter change and then repeat again from square one . Lol... if the van is going f to do something I left it . Way to many variables and conditions to do a analysis. It’s a car , I drive it in summer and winter , then I go in garage and hug my viper . ?
 

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Great hypothesis and explanations, spot on on all accounts, I believe. Not sure if anyone has added this yet, which may lead to a third solution? Due to the engineering wonder that is the Toyota synergy drive system and all derivatives, of which the PacHY PHEV-33mi is (won't get into that, moving on).

Beginning with the Prius, of which in 2005 I converted into a PHEV-10mi, and documented many other projects of various methods. Anyway, among it's many synergy tricks, has a "Forced Regen" mode. For whatEVer reason you may have, you can put (any PHEV?) into a drive gear, preferably drive or low/breaking. If you stand on the brake, and then stand on the accelerator, the engine will spool up slightly (unlike a non PHEV which will try to red line). In this mode the car will Regen Charge the traction battery, again, through the MG1(output/road)/MG2/ICE CVT Synergy magic geometry. (This is the series hybrid mode, of multiple that this configuration is capable of).

The side effects of this mode, which are applicable to the oil refresh is that: First, the radiator is rendered useless due to being stationary, until highest temp threshold when the radiator fan is activated. Second, slightly higher RPM makes more heat and pushes the oil slightly more rapidly through the engine, likely slightly better for the purging of moisture. The battery system will know when to cut out the Regen, you may notice the loss of this load (the Regen energy) when that occurs, this has nothing to do with oil refresh, but hope it preempts worries. As I opened with, this is a known operating mode (Forced Regen), that all these drive systems have (unless yours doesn't behave this way, I haven't tested them all).

I have just attempted this for the first time, and it appears to work. Was able to quickly reach 207f oil temp, and the message was cleared. Will see how it behaves for the next few trips. Thanks for the initial insight which lead me to attempt a Forced Regen for the first time in years, make that about a decade. It is such an odd mode to use as it seems the antithesis of what we want which is to use electricity as an external fuel rather than one we create by burning gas on purpose.

I just read the post 2 above this one, and feel compelled to add: DO NOT USE my solution or ever run your engine INSIDE YOUR GARAGE, without proper ventilation you could be injured or killed.
 

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I put the front wheels of my car in the garage, the rest outside. I put the car in drive and push the brake with my left foot. Then I give it just a tiny amount of throttle with my right foot. Just enough to get the rpm's up. I wait for the oil guage to reach 200, which takes10 minutes or so.
Can you do everything the same but pop the hood to force ICE engine to come on instead of the accelerator method? Seems like that would be easier and get the engine hot enough, but I've never tried myself. I live in a warm area and don't encounter FORM on my van.
 

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Great hypothesis and explanations, spot on on all accounts, I believe. Not sure if anyone has added this yet, which may lead to a third solution? Due to the engineering wonder that is the Toyota synergy drive system and all derivatives, of which the PacHY PHEV-33mi is (won't get into that, moving on).

Beginning with the Prius, of which in 2005 I converted into a PHEV-10mi, and documented many other projects of various methods. Anyway, among it's many synergy tricks, has a "Forced Regen" mode. For whatEVer reason you may have, you can put (any PHEV?) into a drive gear, preferably drive or low/breaking. If you stand on the brake, and then stand on the accelerator, the engine will spool up slightly (unlike a non PHEV which will try to red line). In this mode the car will Regen Charge the traction battery, again, through the MG1(output/road)/MG2/ICE CVT Synergy magic geometry. (This is the series hybrid mode, of multiple that this configuration is capable of).

The side effects of this mode, which are applicable to the oil refresh is that: First, the radiator is rendered useless due to being stationary, until highest temp threshold when the radiator fan is activated. Second, slightly higher RPM makes more heat and pushes the oil slightly more rapidly through the engine, likely slightly better for the purging of moisture. The battery system will know when to cut out the Regen, you may notice the loss of this load (the Regen energy) when that occurs, this has nothing to do with oil refresh, but hope it preempts worries. As I opened with, this is a known operating mode (Forced Regen), that all these drive systems have (unless yours doesn't behave this way, I haven't tested them all).

I have just attempted this for the first time, and it appears to work. Was able to quickly reach 207f oil temp, and the message was cleared. Will see how it behaves for the next few trips. Thanks for the initial insight which lead me to attempt a Forced Regen for the first time in years, make that about a decade. It is such an odd mode to use as it seems the antithesis of what we want which is to use electricity as an external fuel rather than one we create by burning gas on purpose.

I just read the post 2 above this one, and feel compelled to add: DO NOT USE my solution or ever run your engine INSIDE YOUR GARAGE, without proper ventilation you could be injured or killed.
Neat, so you’ve tried this? I’ve tried holding the brake and pressing the throttle but have never had the engine come on. Does it need to be floored?

BMW will let you rev your engine, I didnt try flooring it however.

So what are you up to that you are converting prius’s and documenting your methods :p

I like the idea of a hidden mode in the vehicle. I will try this out next time I have my engine run.. may be several months however.
 

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Neat, so you’ve tried this? I’ve tried holding the brake and pressing the throttle but have never had the engine come on. Does it need to be floored?

BMW will let you rev your engine, I didnt try flooring it however.

So what are you up to that you are converting prius’s and documenting your methods :p

I like the idea of a hidden mode in the vehicle. I will try this out next time I have my engine run.. may be several months however.
I have tried it exactly twice, today, on the PacHY, first did not reach 205f before needing to drive, which cools everything down... I used Forced Regen many times on the my 05' PriusBlue conversion. The documentation was in collaboration with CalCars, 7 years before the first OEM PHEV (ex Volt/i3). Part of the Seattle Electric Vehicle Assoc, a sub-project of mine eaa-phev dot org, now stale for years, since you can now just buy a PHEV or BEV (Thanks Tesla).
 

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I have tried it exactly twice, today, on the PacHY, first did not reach 205f before needing to drive, which cools everything down... I used Forced Regen many times on the my 05' PriusBlue conversion. The documentation was in collaboration with CalCars, 7 years before the first OEM PHEV (ex Volt/i3). Part of the Seattle Electric Vehicle Assoc, a sub-project of mine eaa-phev dot org, now stale for years, since you can now just buy a PHEV or BEV (Thanks Tesla).
Very cool info! Appreciate that and welcome to the forum :)
 

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Maybe a dumb question: how does one find out what the oil or coolant temperature is in the 2019 Pacifica Hybrid? The manual only mentions a warning light and I looked through all the displays without finding anything.

My story: I had the oil changed and tires rotated by the dealer at the one-year service at the end of February (car only has 4,000 miles on it because I presciently started working from home last August), not long after adding half a tank of gas that turned off the previously active "oil and fuel refresh mode". The car went back into this mode within a month of the service (about mid-March, if I remember), and since we're now all forced to stay at home, it'll take me forever to use 1/2 tank of gas.

Maybe it wants the oil temp raised as described in this great post, but I have no idea how to tell what the oil temperature is. Does the dealer have to do something to tell the car that the oil was changed? If so, might this put a stop to this mode?

Or, since it's in oil and fuel refresh mode, can I just leave it parked in the driveway with the engine running to let it get hot enough? It'll take forever to burn enough gas to let me top it off with 8 or so gallons (is that the right amount). But the few trips I make now to the grocery store or to pick up food could definitely be done on electric power without wasting the extra gas used for a short trip.

How about fuel stabilizers -- are those worthwhile, or just damaging? I do always use "Tier-1 Gas", usually from Chevron, Texaco, or CostCo.
 

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Maybe a dumb question: how does one find out what the oil or coolant temperature is in the 2019 Pacifica Hybrid? The manual only mentions a warning light and I looked through all the displays without finding anything.

My story: I had the oil changed and tires rotated by the dealer at the one-year service at the end of February (car only has 4,000 miles on it because I presciently started working from home last August), not long after adding half a tank of gas that turned off the previously active "oil and fuel refresh mode". The car went back into this mode within a month of the service (about mid-March, if I remember), and since we're now all forced to stay at home, it'll take me forever to use 1/2 tank of gas.

Maybe it wants the oil temp raised as described in this great post, but I have no idea how to tell what the oil temperature is. Does the dealer have to do something to tell the car that the oil was changed? If so, might this put a stop to this mode?

Or, since it's in oil and fuel refresh mode, can I just leave it parked in the driveway with the engine running to let it get hot enough? It'll take forever to burn enough gas to let me top it off with 8 or so gallons (is that the right amount). But the few trips I make now to the grocery store or to pick up food could definitely be done on electric power without wasting the extra gas used for a short trip.

How about fuel stabilizers -- are those worthwhile, or just damaging? I do always use "Tier-1 Gas", usually from Chevron, Texaco, or CostCo.
FROM THE 2019 Pacifica Hybrid Manual PAGES 170 or there abouts:

"Instrument Cluster Display Menu Items Vehicle Info

NOTE: The Instrument Cluster Display menu items dis-
play in the center of the instrument cluster. Menu items
may vary depending on your vehicle features. Push and release the up or down arrow button until
Vehicle Info is highlighted in the instrument cluster dis-
play. Push the left or right arrow button to scroll through
the following information submenus:
Speedometer
Push and release the up or down arrow button until
Speedometer is highlighted in the instrument cluster dis-
play. Push and release the OK button to toggle between
MPH and km/h.
• Tire Pressure
• If tire pressure is OK for all tires, a vehicle ICON is
displayed with tire pressure values in each corner of the
ICON.
• Coolant Temperature • If the conditions are met, holding the OK button will
reset the gauge and the numeric display will return to
100%.
Displays the actual coolant temperature.
• Oil Temperature
Displays the actual oil temperature.
• Oil Pressure
Displays the actual oil pressure."
This implies you need to explore the submenus.
 
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"• Coolant Temperature • If the conditions are met, holding the OK button will
reset the gauge and the numeric display will return to
100%." makes no sense because the copy and paste went awry, my apologies.....
 
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