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Actually, the faster you charge the less charge loss waste occurs from the computers, pumps etc running during charging. If electricity is expensive you want to stay away from L1 charging as it could cost you almost double.
There should be a big asterisk with this quote. Charging efficiency between level 1 and level 2 is only around 5%. If you have TOU electricity, then it might double, but most people don't.
 

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Actually, the faster you charge the less charge loss waste occurs from the computers, pumps etc running during charging. If electricity is expensive you want to stay away from L1 charging as it could cost you almost double.
There should be a big asterisk with this quote. Charging efficiency between level 1 and level 2 is only around 5%. If you have TOU electricity, then it might double, but most people don't.
I agree - but we need to look at the big picture.

If two PacHy's charged at the same time, one with L1and the other on L2. There may only be 5% difference while the charge process overlaps. The electronics is not that inefficient.. However the L2 will be done in 2hr and the L1 will take 16hrs.

L1 in this scenerio spends 8x longer wasting that 5% which at best would be 40% more electricity in the end compared to a 240v/30a L2. Any higher than 10% difference and it will have doubled.

We have members with good quaility EVSE's that use 9.8kW per charge and others using L1 and Kill-a-watt recorders using 19kW and is the origin of that statement.

I personally use 14.5kW on the modified L1 at 208v and 12A over 6hrs.
 

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I suppose I'm not 100% understanding what everyone is doing. By "building" you are talking about splicing together wiring to give the desired amps and voltage, correct? I was reading more along the lines of get a 240 receptacle installed in my garage then buy an RV adapter to go from the level 1 charger to the receptacle (socket).
 

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I suppose I'm not 100% understanding what everyone is doing. By "building" you are talking about splicing together wiring to give the desired amps and voltage, correct? I was reading more along the lines of get a 240 receptacle installed in my garage then buy an RV adapter to go from the level 1 charger to the receptacle (socket).
https://youtu.be/lGcSgzVtv4I

We are talking about making this adaptor. This works with our PacHy OEM EVSE.
 

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I suppose I'm not 100% understanding what everyone is doing. By "building" you are talking about splicing together wiring to give the desired amps and voltage, correct? I was reading more along the lines of get a 240 receptacle installed in my garage then buy an RV adapter to go from the level 1 charger to the receptacle (socket).
What are you trying to do? Use the EVSE came with the Pacifica at 240V? If so, AFAIK they can't make one since it's not up to code to put two hots into a 120V socket. You either build it yourself for around $20-$30 or buy it from Etsy for $60. I installed a dryer outlet in my garage and made the following adapter myself:
 

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I agree - but we need to look at the big picture.

If two PacHy's charged at the same time, one with L1and the other on L2. There may only be 5% difference while the charge process overlaps. The electronics is not that inefficient.. However the L2 will be done in 2hr and the L1 will take 16hrs.

L1 in this scenerio spends 8x longer wasting that 5% which at best would be 40% more electricity in the end compared to a 240v/30a L2. Any higher than 10% difference and it will have doubled.

We have members with good quaility EVSE's that use 9.8kW per charge and others using L1 and Kill-a-watt recorders using 19kW and is the origin of that statement.

I personally use 14.5kW on the modified L1 at 208v and 12A over 6hrs.
The 5% is not per hour, it's per full charge. See the following study:
https://www.veic.org/documents/default-source/resources/reports/an-assessment-of-level-1-and-level-2-electric-vehicle-charging-efficiency.pdf
 

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I agree - but we need to look at the big picture.

If two PacHy's charged at the same time, one with L1and the other on L2. There may only be 5% difference while the charge process overlaps. The electronics is not that inefficient.. However the L2 will be done in 2hr and the L1 will take 16hrs.

L1 in this scenerio spends 8x longer wasting that 5% which at best would be 40% more electricity in the end compared to a 240v/30a L2. Any higher than 10% difference and it will have doubled.

We have members with good quaility EVSE's that use 9.8kW per charge and others using L1 and Kill-a-watt recorders using 19kW and is the origin of that statement.

I personally use 14.5kW on the modified L1 at 208v and 12A over 6hrs.
The 5% is not per hour, it's per full charge. See the following study:
https://www.veic.org/documents/default-source/resources/reports/an-assessment-of-level-1-and-level-2-electric-vehicle-charging-efficiency.pdf
Thats a facinating paper and it seems to open a can of worms that will hyjack this thread and is probably better saved for its own discussion (again).

I have several issues that will challenge your paper and likely your ability to defend this 5% more power over 14hr time.
 

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I didn't do any splicing or making my own lead.

I installed a 240v - 30a supply to a NEMA TT 30R outlet.
Then bought a Camco 55233 RV 30M_15F Amp Power Grip Adapter, from amazon and just plugged it in

No issues so far, and its plugged in all night, Pachy tells me its a level 2 and takes about 5 1/2 hrs to charge from empty

Paul
 

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I didn't do any splicing or making my own lead.

I installed a 240v - 30a supply to a NEMA TT 30R outlet.
Then bought a Camco 55233 RV 30M_15F Amp Power Grip Adapter, from amazon and just plugged it in

No issues so far, and its plugged in all night, Pachy tells me its a level 2 and takes about 5 1/2 hrs to charge from empty

Paul
Hi Haggy45. Is the Camco adapter to still working for you? Any issues?
 

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I didn't do any splicing or making my own lead.

I installed a 240v - 30a supply to a NEMA TT 30R outlet.
Then bought a Camco 55233 RV 30M_15F Amp Power Grip Adapter, from amazon and just plugged it in

No issues so far, and its plugged in all night, Pachy tells me its a level 2 and takes about 5 1/2 hrs to charge from empty

Paul
If I run a new line from a new 40A circuit breaker to the same NEMA TT 30R outlet that you used, that shouldn't be a problem, right? Since the Pachy controls the charging, it will only pull the max (slightly less than 30A) and this will future proof my outlet, by allowing it be easily switched to a 40A outlet someday if needed, right?

Also, can I safely use 4-wire wiring and not connect the Neutral wire to the NEMA TT 30R outlet, so that I can easily rewire the outlet in the future to a NEMA 6-50 outlet, if I later want to decrease charging times further, by installing a Chargepoint?

Also, since I will be installing the outlet into a garage, a GFI circuit breaker is required, right?

Thanks in advance for your replies.
Stach
 

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A 40A breaker can be used with EVSE up to 32A.

There is no NEC requirement for GFCI protection in 240V circuits for a residential garage. I've still haven't heard a good explanation for why that is.

Thanks for this info. I upgraded my breaker to GFCI, mostly because I am using an extension cord(I already had this to plug my RV in). I am also having a new house built, I need to make sure they install GFCI 50AMP breakers in the garage, I assumed it would be code. Also, now that I think about it, even outside at every campground in the country, no 220V 50amp or 110V 30amp outlet is GFCI. Every outside 15 or 20 amp outlet on the camper has always been GFCI.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The level 2 chargers have an internal GFCI. I have mine in the garage (which is full of stuff, and no room for a van) and plug into my Pachy outside. I would not have an outside charger, since I believe expensive electronics should not be outside.
In Massachusetts our electricity is so expensive that the cost per mile is not much lower when using electricity, so I put solar panels on the house. If you do this let the installation company know you need about 10kw hours/day extra for the Pachy.

Also, although we call it a level 2 Charger, the charger is actually in the car and the level 2 charger is really a controller.
 

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Just adding to this old thread to say the charger that came with my 2019 I just bought about a month ago works on 240v. I put in a 14-50 outlet so I can later upgrade to a higher power Level 2 charger as I will likely get an EV at some point.
 

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Just adding to this old thread to say the charger that came with my 2019 I just bought about a month ago works on 240v. I put in a 14-50 outlet so I can later upgrade to a higher power Level 2 charger as I will likely get an EV at some point.
Nice! Now you should be able to do a full charge from 0-100% in a little more than 5 hours!
 

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Just adding to this old thread to say the charger that came with my 2019 I just bought about a month ago works on 240v. I put in a 14-50 outlet so I can later upgrade to a higher power Level 2 charger as I will likely get an EV at some point.
I'm about to do the same thing but I want to be double sure I'm doing it correctly. I'm going to connect the circuit ground to the receptacle neutral(the right angle part). Since there isn't any 120v being used, a neutral isn't necessary but a ground would be needed for the charger's GFCI.
Can anyone confirm that this is how they did it?
 

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There’s a whole bunch of videos on 240 set up for a nema plug on internet. If your handy you can do all the leg work and just have a certified electrician install breaker and it’s up and running . The cost is really minimal if you purchase wire, plug, conduit yourself and do it . I really don’t think I’d install a 240 plug and use my oem charger and sleep well at nite . ESP if something happens and insurance comes into play . Isn’t prefer to error on caution for house and vans sake .
 

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There’s a whole bunch of videos on 240 set up for a nema plug on internet. If your handy you can do all the leg work and just have a certified electrician install breaker and it’s up and running . The cost is really minimal if you purchase wire, plug, conduit yourself and do it . I really don’t think I’d install a 240 plug and use my oem charger and sleep well at nite . ESP if something happens and insurance comes into play . Isn’t prefer to error on caution for house and vans sake .
Thanks for the reply. For whatever reason, I didn't think of YouTube and it confirmed the wiring. I had to dig a 50' trench that was 18" deep to meet code to get the power up to where we want to park. Digging in the dirt brought me back to my Irish roots.
Our situation is that this is at our cabin. I left the wall charger at home and want to be able to charge on 240v here which is why I went to all the work putting in the wiring and conduit. Backing down a hill to be close to the 120v receptacle and then waiting over 13 hours for a full charge persuaded me install the receptacle.
 
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