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Discussion Starter #1
The user manual i found online looks like its for the gas model. Is there a proper way to break in the gas engine on the hybrid? Its kinda hard to break in the engine without draining the battery. Thoughts?
 

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To break in the ICE, you will have to drain the battery. We just got ours recently and after a few days of electric fun we ran the battery down and stopped charging for this reason. The 2018 and 2019 Hybrid Manuals say the same thing:

A long break-in period is not required for the engine and
drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After
the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80
or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the
limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in.
Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes
should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions
under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades, refer to “Dealer
Service” in “Servicing And Maintenance”
 

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You have very little control over the ICE in PacHy. You should avoid rapid accelerations while the car is new and expecially when the engine is cold, and this is probably the extend of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You have very little control over the ICE in PacHy. You should avoid rapid accelerations while the car is new and expecially when the engine is cold, and this is probably the extend of it.
when the HVAC is blowing hot, does this also mean the engine coolant is hot, or not necessarily because the HVAC could be running just off of the electric heater which i'm assuming doesn't also heat the engine coolant?
 

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I sound ignorant AF but is one supposed to know this "break in" thing? Wow! I've never heard of it (for cars) until now. Are we supposed to do this on all cars or is it something specific to hybrids?
I would've never thought that we need to "condition" car engines before using them as usual..
Yikes!! Please tell me I haven't been doing it wrong all along (have had 2 new cars thus far, but never an EV yet). Planning to buy PacHy in the next few days
Thanks!
 

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It's been covered in the manual for every car I've owned. It's a fairly standard practice for every internal combustion engine I've used, from tiny .049 cubic inch glow-fuel engines on up.
 

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when the HVAC is blowing hot, does this also mean the engine coolant is hot, or not necessarily because the HVAC could be running just off of the electric heater which i'm assuming doesn't also heat the engine coolant?
When the ICE is cold or off, the HVAC is running off the electric heater. You're right, that heater doesn't heat the ICE coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When the ICE is cold or off, the HVAC is running off the electric heater. You're right, that heater doesn't heat the ICE coolant.
So if you remote start the van, and the ICE kicks on, it is cold. So you're saying the HVAC will blow warm air into the cabin from the electric heater?

I've noticed when my battery is full and I remote start, it always starts the engine. Is this a outdoor temp thing? I also notice that when this happens, the juicebox I have only shows 0.9Amp draw at 241 volts. So does this mean that the electric HVAC heater only uses 241 volts X 0.9 Amps = 216 Watts?

I figured it would be 1500-2000 watts......
 

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If you wanted to get some miles on the engine after the battery is drained, you should be able to force the engine to run continually and get hot by starting the vehicle and opening the hood and let it sit and run for 10-15 minutes. That's supposed to be a safety feature so that someone isn't working underhood and unexpectedly have the engine start. You could then go drive a little more aggressively than normal.

I personally wouldn't worry too much about it. Nearly all modern engines are run in from the factory and the rings on the pistons will already be nearly seated/worn in to match the cylinder walls for best compression and oil control. The main thing a lot of recommended break-in procedures are for driveline components such as bearings, axles, brake pads, conventional transmission clutch packs, to give the computer time to learn adaptive values to control various components, etc. and not necessarily the engine.

There's also varying thoughts as to what's best for the engine. On a conventional powered new car I'd normally drive a little easy with varying rpms and speeds, if possible, for the first few hundred miles. Then start giving it some aggressive full throttle and a lot of rpms.

With the Hybrid it likely wouldn't hurt to drive it at different speeds and give it some easier miles, then don't plug in and let it run on hybrid mode for a gas tank or so. Even if you didn't do that there's likely nothing to worry about.
 

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So if you remote start the van, and the ICE kicks on, it is cold. So you're saying the HVAC will blow warm air into the cabin from the electric heater?

I've noticed when my battery is full and I remote start, it always starts the engine. Is this a outdoor temp thing? I also notice that when this happens, the juicebox I have only shows 0.9Amp draw at 241 volts. So does this mean that the electric HVAC heater only uses 241 volts X 0.9 Amps = 216 Watts?

I figured it would be 1500-2000 watts......
PacHy will use ICE from time to time when the temperature is below 40F or so. The heater doesn't run directly from the charger- it will use a bit of the battery power, than recharge it. The Hybrid screen in uConnect shows how much power is going to the heater.
 

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It's been in the 20s the last couple days where I'm at. Two days ago I used the double-push button to run while still plugged in to 120v charging to pre-heat the cabin a little and get the battery coolant heater running before disconnecting. Today I did a regular remote start which ran the engine while I also left the charging cable connected.

Starting with a 100% full battery, both methods still showed the range dropping a couple percent as the heating and battery conditioning was apparently drawing quite a bit more current than the 120v Level 1 charging could contribute. I'm assuming when running the engine the coolant temps were still too low to effectively heat the cabin and it reverted to electrical heating which is why that also dropped.

After starting to drive and the heating left on a low temperature (not much heat) and the blower set to lowest fan speed, the uConnect hybrid status page was showing climate control still drawing a continuous 5k watts. Thinking of it as a small electrical space heater running off a battery pack puts it into perspective. I have a tiny room heater that I can't even run off a 2k watt home generator without it tripping for over-current.
 
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