[SteveMat]

So picked up a Pacifica Hybrid a week or so ago and bought a GE DuraStation 30 AMP EVSA for the garage. Got everything wired up but when I plug the Pacifica in to charge, the DuraStation throws a code 121:

Code 121 – Pilot diode test failed The SAE J1772 standard requires a diode to be present in the vehicle’s pilot circuit. Prior to every charge cycle, the charge controller checks for the presence of this diode, and will issue this fault if check fails. Remove the charge plug from vehicle to clear this fault. It is possible to disable the pilot diode test by installing the optional J21 de-rate jumper in position D,​

but note that simplified charging will not be allowed (see code 122).

The Pacifica is flashing the two outer lights on the dash:

Two outer lights are blinking Indicates an error in the charging process.​

I haven't jumpered J21 to disable this but wondered what the ramifications are of doing that? Or is that really the problem or is something else up? Other EVSE's require this? Return this DuraStation? What am I losing out of by doing this assuming it works?

 

[blameitonben]

So picked up a Pacifica Hybrid a week or so ago and bought a GE DuraStation 30 AMP EVSA for the garage. Got everything wired up but when I plug the Pacifica in to charge, the DuraStation throws a code 121:

Code 121 – Pilot diode test failed The SAE J1772 standard requires a diode to be present in the vehicle’s pilot circuit. Prior to every charge cycle, the charge controller checks for the presence of this diode, and will issue this fault if check fails. Remove the charge plug from vehicle to clear this fault. It is possible to disable the pilot diode test by installing the optional J21 de-rate jumper in position D,​

but note that simplified charging will not be allowed (see code 122).



The Pacifica is flashing the two outer lights on the dash:

Two outer lights are blinking Indicates an error in the charging process.​

I haven't jumpered J21 to disable this but wondered what the ramifications are of doing that? Or is that really the problem or is something else up? Other EVSE's require this? Return this DuraStation? What am I losing out of by doing this assuming it works?

This has been talked about in other threads. The GE Chargers require a jumper be moved to override the diode test. Do a quick Google search or check the install manual. There should be something about jumper change required.

Ben


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[SteveMat]

Yes, read about it but was more wondering what are ramifications? Is there something lacking in the Pacifica it should have? FYI I did jumper J21 as discussed in the install manual and it started charging.

Usually makes me nervous about a planned failure and have to jumper something to fix it, seems like competing standards issue?

 

[blameitonben]

Yes, read about it but was more wondering what are ramifications? Is there something lacking in the Pacifica it should have? FYI I did jumper J21 as discussed in the install manual and it started charging.



Usually makes me nervous about a planned failure and have to jumper something to fix it, seems like competing standards issue?

I think this is a part of the software issues they are working on. I can't believe they would have left something out of the vehicle required for most charging systems.

The diode test it's doing is likely there to stop power back flow to the charger, which would cause long term damage to the charger. Not the vehicle.


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[SteveMat]

So I did the J21 jumper (pins 1-3-5) to disable the "Pilot diode test" and indicate to the EVSE that it is attached to a 20AMP circuit. So for a matter of reference, with the battery @ 0%, the Pacifica charged to 100% in under 4 hours (maybe 3.5 hours, can't remember the screen).

I'll be pulling new wire so I can run at 30AMP (~4 hour charge time is actually fine but the current 220v outlet is on the wrong wall so need to do a new run) so should get down to 2 hours.

One question I had though, and I think it has been debated quite a bit but even when I pull 50AMP capable wire/breaker, should I still run the EVSE on 20AMP circuit mode? We will most likely only charge at night at the end of the day so 2 vs 4 hours really doesn't matter. Is the "slower" charging better for the batteries/EVSE/home wiring substantially better?

 

[blameitonben]

So I did the J21 jumper (pins 1-3-5) to disable the "Pilot diode test" and indicate to the EVSE that it is attached to a 20AMP circuit. So for a matter of reference, with the battery @ 0%, the Pacifica charged to 100% in under 4 hours (maybe 3.5 hours, can't remember the screen).



I'll be pulling new wire so I can run at 30AMP (~4 hour charge time is actually fine but the current 220v outlet is on the wrong wall so need to do a new run) so should get down to 2 hours.



One question I had though, and I think it has been debated quite a bit but even when I pull 50AMP capable wire/breaker, should I still run the EVSE on 20AMP circuit mode? We will most likely only charge at night at the end of the day so 2 vs 4 hours really doesn't matter. Is the "slower" charging better for the batteries/EVSE/home wiring substantially better?

So will argue no, that anything under 40 amps won't really matter anyways.

I'd say slower is a little better for long term integrity.

I drive Leaf though & DC Fast charge all the time (106 amps average) so far no issues with the battery at 17,000 miles. It's likely something you'll see much further down road.

I also don't mind on the leaf, because my battery has a 10/150,000 mile waranty so if it fails, I'm covered & it's up to Nissan to repair.

Ben


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[soconnorny]

So I did the J21 jumper (pins 1-3-5) to disable the "Pilot diode test" and indicate to the EVSE that it is attached to a 20AMP circuit. So for a matter of reference, with the battery @ 0%, the Pacifica charged to 100% in under 4 hours (maybe 3.5 hours, can't remember the screen).

I'll be pulling new wire so I can run at 30AMP (~4 hour charge time is actually fine but the current 220v outlet is on the wrong wall so need to do a new run) so should get down to 2 hours.

One question I had though, and I think it has been debated quite a bit but even when I pull 50AMP capable wire/breaker, should I still run the EVSE on 20AMP circuit mode? We will most likely only charge at night at the end of the day so 2 vs 4 hours really doesn't matter. Is the "slower" charging better for the batteries/EVSE/home wiring substantially better?

Same exact issue with GE Wattstation here with the 121 Error. Added the 1 --- 5 jumper as listed in manual (troubleshooting) and now car charges without issue in just under 2 hrs (50 amp circuit). Of course I wish the Pilot test didn't fail but hoping there is a remedy for this at some point. I have charged car at external L2's without issue. Seems like the GE units are the ones giving the 121 errors.

 

[ClarksonCote]

Hey guys, came across this post. My employer has GE Durastation pedastal chargers and the same thing is happening here. An employee just got a Pacifica and the charger throws Error 134, which for this variant, is the same code saying the diode test fails. I'll also note that the GE manual says that the diode is part of the J1772 standard for charging, so if Chrysler is leaving that out of their vehicles, that's pretty poor form.

From the GE DuraStation manual:

Code 134 – Pilot diode test failed
The SAE J1772 standard requires a diode to be present in the vehicle’s pilot circuit. Prior to every charge cycle, the charge controller checks for the presence of this diode, and if it is not there will issue this fault. The charging plug must be removed from the EV socket in order to clear this fault. It is possible to disable the pilot diode test using the local configuration tool (see section 4.2.4 for Networked models or section 5.3.1 for Non-Networked models). Note that GE recommends disabling simplified charging if the diode test is disabled.

Has there been any update on this being resolved from Chrysler's side?

 

[SteveMat]

Actually not a Chrysler issue but a GE cable issue. If you open the DuraStation and look at where the charging cord comes in, if the lettering is black or red, you will need to use Jumper J21. If green writing, you should not. I have two DuraStations, one of each of the above and both charge fine (as long as I have J21 set for the black/red cable).

 

[tbier]

Picked up a used WattStation. No matter what position I set the jumper it’s charging at full speed. Anyone see this before?

 

[GHTech]

Hi,

I have the GE WattStation, and am getting the error code 121 as well. Just picked up the 2021 Pacifica Hybrid. I did open up the unit, and see the J21 location, but do not see the jumper to set the options. Is the jumper somewhere else on the unit, or it would have been in the box that I tossed about 5 years ago?

Thanks,

GHTech

 

[SteveMat]

I attached the PDF of the manual. More of a shunt that a switch you have to set

 

[GHTech]

I attached the PDF of the manual. More of a shunt that a switch you have to set

Hi SteveMat,

Thank you for the manual. I really have the GE WattStation, and I have the physical manual with me. I opened up the unit yesterday, and I see the J21 location, and the 5 pins. There is no jumper/wire that I can see to connect up the pin #1 and #5. I am wondering if there is a place that the jumper is stored that I missed.

Thanks,

GHTech

 

[SteveMat]

Hi SteveMat,

Thank you for the manual. I really have the GE WattStation, and I have the physical manual with me. I opened up the unit yesterday, and I see the J21 location, and the 5 pins. There is no jumper/wire that I can see to connect up the pin #1 and #5. I am wondering if there is a place that the jumper is stored that I missed.

Thanks,

GHTech

Mine came with the attached shunt

 

[GHTech]

Mine came with the attached shunt

Hi SteveMat,

Thank you for the image. I really doubt that I could find mine, as this was installed over 5 years ago. Is there a part number or anything like that on it?

Thanks,

GHTech

 

[SteveMat]

Hi SteveMat,

Thank you for the image. I really doubt that I could find mine, as this was installed over 5 years ago. Is there a part number or anything like that on it?

Thanks,

GHTech

I don't see anything on it but you literally just need to have the two appropriate pins connected to each other. Seems like some Leaf owners ran into the same problem and needed to set the J21 position but had lost the shunt. Looks like they just did an old school wire wrap on it.
GE Durastation jumper help - My Nissan Leaf Forum

You could also make your own wire I would connection pins, just need the female version in the correct size. Something like this:
Weather Pack Terminals - Female, Loose (delcity.net)
Maybe an autoparts store might have some - too bad Radio Shack is gone....