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@bawhitten

Your pictures look great!
Factory is more than twice as expensive as an aftermarket hitch, but it sure does look great, like it came with the vehicle. Will work great with the bike rack.

There must be great demand right now for the Curt and Draw-tite aftermarket ones with the hidden tube, because was quoted 2-3 month lead time right now.
Having to wait months, having to chop-up the exhaust heat shield, and having lower ground clearance to boot just convinced me to bite the bullet and go oem. Looking at it now....... very happy.
 

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kenchills is right - much easier to drill and tap the into the hitch reciever frame while it's out in the open on the ground. I ended up doing it that way after I broke my first tap bit. Partially install the hitch, mark the carbon canister mount hole, remove the hitch, tap and drill on the ground, then install the hitch.
I'm glad your install was completed. You added even more detail than I did when I posted, that'll be helpful to others.

The reason I tapped the hole with the hitch installed and torqued, is that often times, when assembling parts/components that are not finely machined, such as components when reassembling an engine casing or transmission, the original intention or measurement can often times result in imprecise fitment when "reassembled". It's especially the case at times when assembling body parts or "projects". In the case of the canister bolt, I would agree with you and kenchills in that access to tapping the threads is easier in an upright (not under the car) position; and the original hole in the body sheetmetal is quite large and would allow for slight movement in placement upon reassembly. For me, it would have been more work to unbolt the hitch, and reinstall and re-torque than just tapping with hitch already installed.

BTW, I used a swivel head on a socket to access one of the bolts for the exhaust side attachment, rather than remove exhaust from hangar for bolt access.

Bawhitten, when you attempted to tap the threads the first time, did you turn the tap clockwise a 1/2 turn or so at a time, then reverse half/quarter turn (it clears debris and facilitates easier advance of tap) then advance etc, or did you basically turn the tap clockwise in advancing the threads and without backing out a bit before further advancement? It's why I mentioned that step by step. I ask because that's usually the cause of broken taps. It could also be that a drill size that was too small initially which would result in too much material for the tap to remove. Did you use a cutting/lubricating oil? That's important as well.

Nicely done
 

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@Strade Bianche

I took the time to install the hitch mounting bolts and snug them down, before marking the spot to drill/tap. Yes, it took more time and bother, but it ensured perfect alignment when I removed the hitch to drill and tap.
I've broken a few taps before and know what a pain that can be, so I just wanted to do everything I could to minimize that possibility.

With this method, I like that the canister is in the exact same position as it was from the factory.
 

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@bawhitten

Your pictures look great!
Factory is more than twice as expensive as an aftermarket hitch, but it sure does look great, like it came with the vehicle. Will work great with the bike rack.

There must be great demand right now for the Curt and Draw-tite aftermarket ones with the hidden tube, because was quoted 2-3 month lead time right now.
Having to wait months, having to chop-up the exhaust heat shield, and having lower ground clearance to boot just convinced me to bite the bullet and go oem. Looking at it now....... very happy.
Agreed wrt the bumper skin faschia/trim removal. I was was at that stage working on my own and having a hard time. With another set of hands, and my "helpers" know-how, that's how mine proceeded to come apart. One set of hands applying pressure and pulling the pieces apart, and another 2 with the panel tools on the tabs is what made the difference for me.

I saw the ground clearance issue as a deal breaker for me for a non OEM hitch, and I didn't like the exposed tube.
 

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I'm glad your install was completed. You added even more detail than I did when I posted, that'll be helpful to others.

The reason I tapped the hole with the hitch installed and torqued, is that often times, when assembling parts/components that are not finely machined, such as components when reassembling an engine casing or transmission, the original intention or measurement can often times result in imprecise fitment when "reassembled". It's especially the case at times when assembling body parts or "projects". In the case of the canister bolt, I would agree with you and kenchills in that access to tapping the threads is easier in an upright (not under the car) position; and the original hole in the body sheetmetal is quite large and would allow for slight movement in placement upon reassembly. For me, it would have been more work to unbolt the hitch, and reinstall and re-torque than just tapping with hitch already installed.

BTW, I used a swivel head on a socket to access one of the bolts for the exhaust side attachment, rather than remove exhaust from hangar for bolt access.

Bawhitten, when you attempted to tap the threads the first time, did you turn the tap clockwise a 1/2 turn or so at a time, then reverse half/quarter turn (it clears debris and facilitates easier advance of tap) then advance etc, or did you basically turn the tap clockwise in advancing the threads and without backing out a bit before further advancement? It's why I mentioned that step by step. I ask because that's usually the cause of broken taps. It could also be that a drill size that was too small initially which would result in too much material for the tap to remove. Did you use a cutting/lubricating oil? That's important as well.

Nicely done

Excellent points Strade Bianche. I used a 13/64 drill bit and lubricated it, but I was not careful. I got in a hurry and my grip slipped or wobbled or something which caused the tap to snap. I had access to a real garage lift so had the van raised up above me. I had to remove the hitch to get the broken tap out. With the hitch on the ground and me kneeling over it, I had more control. That said, if I had slowed down and been more careful, tapping the hole with the hitch installed probably would have worked fine. At least I was able to drill the hole in the correct spot with the hitch installed even if I hade tap the threads with the hitch uninstalled back in the ground. All good.
 

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@bawhitten

Your pictures look great!
Factory is more than twice as expensive as an aftermarket hitch, but it sure does look great, like it came with the vehicle. Will work great with the bike rack.

There must be great demand right now for the Curt and Draw-tite aftermarket ones with the hidden tube, because was quoted 2-3 month lead time right now.
Having to wait months, having to chop-up the exhaust heat shield, and having lower ground clearance to boot just convinced me to bite the bullet and go oem. Looking at it now....... very happy.
Remember, when you try to purchase online from the official MOPAR estore (store.MOPAR.com) don’t let them know who you are or where you are until after you have all 4 items in your cart. The do some sort of dynamic pricing based on your online profile or location. Use a private window on safari browser or incognito on Chrome, or clear your cache and website data, then compare that price to the price you get when they know who and where you are. Have the parts deliver free for pickup at a nearby dealer.
 

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Well a day later than expected due to a late part, the dealership installed my OEM receiver on my 2017 Pacifica Hybrid today and it looks great. If anyone lives in the District/Maryland/Virginia area my service technician gave me permission to post his contact information here because he said he'd be happy to do the same for anyone else who wants it. It's Farrish Cars | Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram Subaru Fairfax VA, the gentleman's name is Zaheer Naziri (703) 934-1639.

It turned out to be more than the original estimate. The explanation was "we've never done this on a hybrid before ... we had to figure it out" which was valid for the increased labor charges. I would recommend ordering the parts yourself as described by a few members (above) and they can be delivered to this specific dealership (I didn't so I paid the dealer markup for the parts .... lesson learned, but too late to matter as I would have saved a couple hundred dollars). Parts/taxes cost $774 even. Labor/Taxes cost $483.46. With taxes that was $213.45 over the original quote.

As I originally said, the cost of having someone do it for me did not outweigh my inability to do it myself and my desire to have the OEM one installed.

I did have one final question for the group ... what is the tongue weight of the OEM hitch? In the documentation it discusses tow weight/tongue weight relative to the size of the radiator/cooling. his is what Chrysler/Mopar says: Hitch Receiver is 2-inch and the same as production. It has a 3,600 lb. tow rating, 360 lb. tongue weight when equipped with NMR (Heavy Duty Radiator), 1,500 lb. tow rating, 150 tongue weight when equipped with NHA (standard engine cooling), 2" receiver opening."

Since I am not towing anything, but will have 4 bikes and a hefty hitch, can I use the higher tongue weight of 360 or the 150 (I think with everything I'm closer to 200 pounds than 150)? My understanding is that tongue weight is the weight pushing down on the receiver itself, so without the towing included, I'm hoping the higher weight on the tongue itself is okay, but thought I'd ask ya'll as you are the experts.
 

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One last point that may/may not help those wishing to do this in other areas. On the Mopar site it says the OEM receiver fits all the hybrid models. Interesting since Chrysler officially says it "doesn't".

VEHICLE FITMENT

MakeBody & TrimEngine & Transmission
2021 Chrysler PacificaHybrid Limited, Hybrid Pinnacle, Hybrid Touring, Hybrid Touring L, Limited, Pinnacle, Touring, Touring L3.6L V6 - Electric/Gas, 3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
2020 Chrysler PacificaHybrid Limited, Hybrid Touring, Hybrid Touring L, Limited, Touring, Touring L, Touring L Plus3.6L V6 - Electric/Gas, 3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
2020 Chrysler VoyagerL, LX, LXi3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
2019 Chrysler PacificaHybrid Limited, Hybrid Touring L, Hybrid Touring Plus, L, LX, Limited, Touring L, Touring L Plus, Touring Plus3.6L V6 - Electric/Gas, 3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
2018 Chrysler PacificaHybrid Limited, Hybrid Touring L, Hybrid Touring Plus, L, LX, Limited, Touring, Touring L, Touring L Plus, Touring Plus3.6L V6 - Electric/Gas, 3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
2017 Chrysler PacificaHybrid Platinum, Hybrid Premium, LX, Limited, Touring, Touring L, Touring L Plus3.6L V6 - Electric/Gas, 3.6L V6 - Flex, 3.6L V6 - Gas
 

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@DadOfThree

I too noticed on the mopar parts website that it said the hitch is listed as fitting the hybrid. Interesting. Perhaps Chrysler is realizing that people who own the hybrid still want to be able to carry a bike rack?

The extra fee the installer charged you was for figuring out how to re-attach/relocate the evaporative emissions carbon canister. On the hybrid, one of the mounting bolts for this canister interferes with the hitch mount. In this (long) thread, several posters have shown how they have quickly overcome this issue. I personally used the method suggested by @Strade Bianche. It worked wonderfully.

IMHO, I don't see why you should have a problem with 200lbs of bikes on the hitch/receiver. If it were an 1 1/4" receiver, then it would be more of a concern. But any 2" receiver should easily be able to handle 200 lbs. Remember that you are not towing anything, so those ratings regarding radiator size and trailer weight/tongue weight are meaningless.
 

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I just finished the install today, It took about 6hrs, That rear bumper assembly is an example of why I have never owned a domestic vehicle, just piss poor design and engineering. I would have been quicker if my shoulder was not limited to over exertion. (torn rotator cuff/ tendinitis) No need for a second person, I did it by myself with a handicap.
I was also missing the proper lower fascia 68282631AD . Ordered last night on a Friday, and received it this morning , a Saturday. I had a lower fascia trim, not the entire fascia which required cutting the factory lower fascia, I didn't like the way it looked, so I ordered the part above. Much cleaner look.
I maintained the kick sensor, I simply removed to two sensing strips off the plastic housing, and cable tied the two strips underneath the bumper. I was able to screw the sensor box to the lower splash guard plastic mounting brace, (behind the bumper), and the two strips were stretched from left to right along the wiring harness in the bumper assembly. One was inside the bumper trim, the other strip was further behind the bumper. It works far better than before. The factory kick sensor only worked for me about half the time.
The charcoal canister location was simple cutoff as mentioned by other members. I didn't bother drilling and tapping the bolt hole, I just used a bolt that was the exact length to bottom out in the bolt hole. Or someone could also just cut the existing bolt to the exact length needed.
The factory bumper basically needs to be completed separated, I can't believe how many tabs are involved to separate the **** thing.
This should be a 3-4hr job if you have good mechanical skills and have worked on cars before. I could probably do it a second time around in about 3hrs if I am in good health.

This thread should be condensed and made a sticky if possible. There are already good pictures posted by members. I have a few I took of mine.
 

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Thanks @Rincewind8 @Strade Bianche and @mackay46 for posting your descriptions of the process, it gave me the confidence to give it a try myself. (2020 pachy)

I had tried local dealers ("chrysler won't let us"), independent repair shops ("we don't do hitch installs") and uhaul ("we only do aftermarket") and decided that it'd take less time to do it myself than to find somewhere that will let me pay them to do it for me.

@bawhitten, I ordered parts directly from store.mopar.com, i already had an account to track warranty. They had reasonable discounted prices and allowed me to choose a local dealer to ship to for free, ending up cheaper than ebay. (choose the dealer before you checkout, and it'll show up in shipping options. Not all local dealers were listed.)

Questions for anyone who did it:
1. Was there any point you needed the car up more than about 6" that rear ramps might provide?
2. what size were the rivets?

Will update when i actually do the work.

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
82214543AC​
Tow Hitch Receiver​
$332.01​
1​
$332.01​
68275630AH​
Power Lift-Gate Hands Free Assembly, Lift-Gate​
$167.79​
1​
$167.79​
6511242AA​
Tapping Screw​
$2.39​
1​
$2.39​
68282631AD​
Rear Lower Fascia​
$38.56​
1​
$38.56​

Subtotal: $540.75​
Local Pickup: Free​
Total: $540.75​
Sorry for the late response, maybe you already figured this out. The aluminum rivets provided with the hitch are pretty big, I used the 1/8" tip for my rivet gun. They are soft though, collapse easily.

As for the ramps, I had no issues doing everything with the 6" of lift. Just had to get up and down off the ground a bunch of times.

Per some other comments by others:
  • I see no reason to disconnect the battery for this job and I wouldn't feel comfortable doing so on the hybrid, without a service guide - you might cause a fault or lose settings. All the electrical work is with plugged connectors that pose no risk of shock.
  • The taillights are tricky, but the ball-and-socket latch releases pretty easily as long as you pull straight out. It just requires a little more force than you'd expect.
  • For anyone struggling with the fascia snaps, lay the bumper on soft blankets so you're not worried about supporting it. Start at one end, slide a large flat-blade screwdriver into the gap on the back of the snap between the two parts. Gently pry the long tab clasp clear of the mating surface and then push on the tab or pull on the part from the other side. They should slide apart easily, with no risk of breakage. If you work from one end to the other, you'll have enough gap to pull on the part while you pry the next snap - it actually gets easier the further you get.
 

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Thanks for the post! I was tempted to try and use the original lower fascia trim and just cut a hole in it, but i was as worried about my ability to cut it right the first time as anything else.

Could you clarify what you did with the kick sensor? do you mean you kept the original kick sensor, just moved it, or are you describing how you installed the new one? Mine also works maybe half the time, and i'd love to do anything to improve that when i do the job next weekend.

I maintained the kick sensor, I simply removed to two sensing strips off the plastic housing, and cable tied the two strips underneath the bumper. I was able to screw the sensor box to the lower splash guard plastic mounting brace, (behind the bumper), and the two strips were stretched from left to right along the wiring harness in the bumper assembly. One was inside the bumper trim, the other strip was further behind the bumper. It works far better than before. The factory kick sensor only worked for me about half the time.
 

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Hi all,

I have a 1,800 lb pop-up camper and I'm trying to figure out if towing uphill through the mountains in Pennsylvania would work with the PHEV Pacifica. Has anyone done any testing on larger loads other than bike racks? My 2015 Town & Country can be set at 70mph towing that weight and does fine right now. I've tried skimming through all 252 posts, so my apologies if this has been stated earlier.

Thanks!
 

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Hi all,

I have a 1,800 lb pop-up camper and I'm trying to figure out if towing uphill through the mountains in Pennsylvania would work with the PHEV Pacifica. Has anyone done any testing on larger loads other than bike racks? My 2015 Town & Country can be set at 70mph towing that weight and does fine right now. I've tried skimming through all 252 posts, so my apologies if this has been stated earlier.

Thanks!
Chrysler says no, so I'd listen to that. Your 2015 T&C has a different drive system. Do you actually have a PHEV Pacifica now?
 

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If you ever have powertrain issues, I'd be worried about warranty invalidation if dealer service ever found out you were towing around a one ton travel trailer with the hybrid. I believe the hybrid has a zero tow rating.
A lot of us have installed the hitch, but have not installed trailer wiring in order to show we do not tow with the hybrid. It's only used for lightweight accessories like a bike rack (for which there is no other practical way to carry bikes.)

If you need to tow the travel trailer, why don't you just go for the gas only version? Properly equipped, it's rated to tow your trailer. You're really not going to get any better mileage from the hybrid anyway, if you are constantly towing on the highway.
 

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You should be able to get away wth towing 1000 lbs, if you are alone and keep your speed in check, this is about the same weight as 6 passengers. I don't remember anyone testing, you may be the first. It is not difficult- you'll need a cheap ELM327 dongle and AlfaOBD app. It will give you real time transmission temperature monitoring, although the free version limits sessions to 15 minutes.
 

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If you ever have powertrain issues, I'd be worried about warranty invalidation if dealer service ever found out you were towing around a one ton travel trailer with the hybrid. I believe the hybrid has a zero tow rating.
A lot of us have installed the hitch, but have not installed trailer wiring in order to show we do not tow with the hybrid. It's only used for lightweight accessories like a bike rack (for which there is no other practical way to carry bikes.)

If you need to tow the travel trailer, why don't you just go for the gas only version? Properly equipped, it's rated to tow your trailer. You're really not going to get any better mileage from the hybrid anyway, if you are constantly towing on the highway.
I only tow around the camper 4-5 times during the summer. 99% of the time I'm commuting to work which just so happens to be 31 miles roundtrip - perfect for the PHEV.

I am in the market to buy right now. I'm actually considering a model Y since it is rated to tow 3,500 lbs.

Of course there are many pros / cons to a model Y versus a Pacifica (ICE or PHEV), but MAN was that an awesome test drive this past weekend!! I've got a 7 and 9 year old - so they can sit in the 2 "tiny" seats in the 3rd row if I need to move 6-7 people at once. The Y has a surprising amount of storage. Again - not going to match the Pacifica, but really nice.
 

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You should be able to get away wth towing 1000 lbs, if you are alone and keep your speed in check, this is about the same weight as 6 passengers. I don't remember anyone testing, you may be the first. It is not difficult- you'll need a cheap ELM327 dongle and AlfaOBD app. It will give you real time transmission temperature monitoring, although the free version limits sessions to 15 minutes.
Unfortunately - that is usually not the case. I'd have 2 adults, 2 kids, and another 200-300 lbs of clothes and gear in the vehicle as well as the camper.
 

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Just installed the OEM hitch on my PacHy. It was time consuming, but straightforward with no issues. The instructions were well written and the additional comments on here more than made up for any gaps.

One thing didn't go well however...I did disconnect the 12v battery and after reconnecting the Uconnect is whacked out. All my options are gone (Sirius, Climate Control (there but acting weird), backup camera, heated seats and wheel, Hybrid app). I have driven it for 30 minutes and nothing has "learned" to bring them back. So I am off to the dealer on this...I hope the answer isn't whenever the 12v is disconnected you have to bring it in for reprogramming?
 

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I've read stories that it can take hours and up to a day for all options in uconnect to be restored after battery power is restored. How long has it been since you restored battery power?
 
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