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Dont need lights to pull a bike rack..

This might be a hard one to explain should you have driveline warranty issues?
Again, not trying to drag up all past discussions on towing ,etc., I just want to find out if anyone has installed a trailer light kit on their Hybrid. I didn't say it was a bike rack. The issue is the tail lights are partially obstructed. Thanks.
 

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I recently had UHaul (Keene, NH) successfully install a Curt class III hitch and trailer light kit on my 2018 Hybrid Platinum. Total cost was $370.00. I plan to use this hitch primarily to carry bicycles but will also transport my small boat short distances. Many thanks to the previous postings on this thread which helped me decide to go ahead with this installation.
The hands free rear hatch sensor is blocked but that is not a problem for me.
 

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I recently had UHaul (Keene, NH) successfully install a Curt class III hitch and trailer light kit on my 2018 Hybrid Platinum. Total cost was $370.00. I plan to use this hitch primarily to carry bicycles but will also transport my small boat short distances. Many thanks to the previous postings on this thread which helped me decide to go ahead with this installation.
The hands free rear hatch sensor is blocked but that is not a problem for me.
Thanks for the post Claypenny. Do you know which trailer light wiring harness they used? From everything I've seen on this forum, they gave you an outstanding price for the install. Congrats and enjoy.
 

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UHaul installed their Quick Connect, Chrysler Pacifica part #CQT118712 ($44.95 + $75.00 labor).
Based on Claypenny's info, I took a chance and purchased the
Tekonsha 118712 T-One Connector Assembly (with Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite HD Module)
Sold by: Country Diesel Trucks on Amazon ($39.38) and installed this weekend. Works great with no issues. The instructions are based on non-hybrid vehicle so connecting the power line to the battery is obviously different (but easier as the battery is located in the left rear). This provides 12v power through a 4-prong flat connector for the supplemental tail lights on my cargo carrier. If you need this, it does the job.
 

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Ev2, how did you get access to connect to the positive 12 v battery terminal or did you tap into the positive cable somewhere?

Pete
Hey Pete, the positive feed does need to be connected directly to the battery. I searched and probed for the best option but didn't find an existing path the wire would fit through. I ended up drilling a 3/8" hole directly behind the left tailight which allowed entry in the back of the battery compartment. I finished the drilled hole with a rubber grommet to prevent chaffing of the insulation and to weatherproof the entry. I placed the fuse link near the + battery terminal and secured with the provided zip ties. The entire side storage compartment snaps out but there is one hex screw in the back behind a small round plastic cover that needs to be removed. Suggest some nylon pry tools to help get it out without damage. The entire thing took about 4 hours but I could probably do a second install in 1.5 hrs. If done in conjunction with the hitch install, that would save even more time as the lower panel that runs across the bottom of the vehicle would already be off.
 

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I recently had UHaul (Keene, NH) successfully install a Curt class III hitch and trailer light kit on my 2018 Hybrid Platinum. Total cost was $370.00. I plan to use this hitch primarily to carry bicycles but will also transport my small boat short distances. Many thanks to the previous postings on this thread which helped me decide to go ahead with this installation.
The hands free rear hatch sensor is blocked but that is not a problem for me.
Thank you for the post. Can you please post a picture on how it looks?
 

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Periodic question.

Anyone have inside news or rumors or contact to give any indication if Chrysler will support towing on the hybrid anytime soon, such as 2019 model year? Our Grand Caravan is up to 190k miles and I wonder how much longer it will last as we keep waiting.

I just looked it up. I asked this back in March. Just a few months ago. Not much activity in this forum. I'm guess no new news. :(
 

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Hi guys,

Just had my DrawTite hitch installed at my local Hitch Shop.

DrawTite just completed the final bracket needed for the 2018 PHEV Pacifica.

Installer said it installed flawlessly. Everything as it should be. I can't even tell its there. Also it doesn't hang down lower than anything else
on the undersides of the chassis. I did not have the wire harness installed since I just wanted it for a bike rack but there is a wire harness
available. I think i noticed MOPAR may have both a hitch and wire harness but you will have to check that out to be sure.

Well that is the end of the wait. My Dealer said the trailer hitch would not void the warranty but that is the Dealer not FCA.
 

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Hey everyone! New 2018 Pacifica Hybrid Limited owner here looking to get a hitch for a bike rack. I've read through this thread in its entirety as well as one other, but a lot of of the feedback is either about the install process or bits and pieces in different posts.

Can anyone who's had a hitch installed give a comprehensive run down of how the Pacifica's features act once it's installed. I'm looking for things like foot swipe opening with the hitch, parking sensors and backup cam with your bike rack installed, etc. Really appreciate the input so I can convince my wife to allow it!
 

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Hey everyone! New 2018 Pacifica Hybrid Limited owner here looking to get a hitch for a bike rack. I've read through this thread in its entirety as well as one other, but a lot of of the feedback is either about the install process or bits and pieces in different posts.

Can anyone who's had a hitch installed give a comprehensive run down of how the Pacifica's features act once it's installed. I'm looking for things like foot swipe opening with the hitch, parking sensors and backup cam with your bike rack installed, etc. Really appreciate the input so I can convince my wife to allow it!
I got the draw-tite installed using the hybrid service kit. The foot opening will work, but not very reliably after the receiver was installed. It helps to be off to one side. Maybe with practice I could get it to work all the time, but I don't wind up using it enough to have figure it out. It's definitely not as easy as it was without the receiver. All the other parking sensors and cameras work fine with no bike rack installed. If you do have a rack installed, then you have to disable the parking sensors with the button on the dash, otherwise the van will slam on the brakes or complain incessantly that you are about to collide with something. The camera will still work, but it's harder to see obviously.
 

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I got the draw-tite installed using the hybrid service kit. The foot opening will work, but not very reliably after the receiver was installed. It helps to be off to one side. Maybe with practice I could get it to work all the time, but I don't wind up using it enough to have figure it out. It's definitely not as easy as it was without the receiver. All the other parking sensors and cameras work fine with no bike rack installed. If you do have a rack installed, then you have to disable the parking sensors with the button on the dash, otherwise the van will slam on the brakes or complain incessantly that you are about to collide with something. The camera will still work, but it's harder to see obviously.
Thanks jbebel! Anyone else? Would also love a CURT hitch perspective as well.
 

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Thanks jbebel! Anyone else? Would also love a CURT hitch perspective as well.
I have a CURT, and it's the same as the drawtite as far as impact on sensors. I have to kick 4" offset and after a few test kicks, I'm 100% accurate. The other sensors/camera are going to complain if something's blocking it, but otherwise work as expected.
 

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I have a CURT, and it's the same as the drawtite as far as impact on sensors. I have to kick 4" offset and after a few test kicks, I'm 100% accurate. The other sensors/camera are going to complain if something's blocking it, but otherwise work as expected.
I appreciate the feedback!
 

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One other question about the parking sensors and a bike rack installed. They only go off when you're in reverse correct? Driving forward doesn't cause any issues, right? Also, what about the surround view camera?
 

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Correct, forward/drive is no issue if rear sensors are blocked. Only reverse would beep at you. Surround view would still work, but rear area would show something blocking it. You would notice the same thing if someone stands next to your side mirrors while in surround view.
 

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Thank you to the contributors of this thread and especially those who addressed the EVAP canister mounting issues.

I just finished my Curt install over the weekend and am very pleased with the result.

I am in Canada, and found the Curt hitch via Uhaul's supply and branding to be the best deal for the part. When I looked up compatibility they only had the curt listed for the hybrid. While I would've preferred the aesthetics of the Drawtite with the bar tucked up I'm much happier with the appearance of the Curt that I was thinking I was going to be.

On the plus of going with the Curt it didn't spec as a requirement to have another part ordered for the canister. I was also it was "officially" compatible with the hybrid via Uhaul's page in case I had issues and wanted to take it in to get installed.

For anyone who goes the same route, the Uhaul hitch arrived in a Curt box with Uhaul's branding on it. I got the hitch for $170 CAD all in to my door. VS the next lowest of $190 + taxes ($215 total) for the draw-tite, not including the hybrid mounting kit - of which I could not find anywhere in Canada at all without ordering through the US at $$$$.

For anyone doing this in the future who wants to go through Uhaul for their hitch I did find that the Drawtite was available from them if you select the gas model. I didn't think of this until after I ordered and didn't want to go through the hassle and cost of trying to exchange.

Install notes on the Curt:
- I put the rear of the van up on my rhino ramps and laid the cardboard box on the ground under the rear of the van. Made for plenty of comfortable working space.
- I also used a 1/4" socket adapter in my impact drill to make light work of most of the 8mm and 10mm nuts and bolts
- Curt instructions say to die grind / enlarge holes in the frame on the hybrid. THIS IS NOT REQUIRED TO INSTALL THE HITCH. The hitch mounted right up without cutting any metal.
- The canister mounted back up in the OEM position by shaving off some of one of the canister mounts to accommodate the new hitch bolt. I used a combination of close quarters plumbers' saw and a pair of side cutters to trim as necessary by trial and error. There was enough room down there with the hitch installed that I didn't need to remove or disconnect the canister in any way, or even remove the mounting bracket. (I think the die grinding of the hitch holes is to make remounting of the canister in OEM position easier without modifying canister mounting bracket, but I'd far rather trim a plastic mount than grind frame holes larger)
- Total modifications to the vehicle were cutting the heat shield via tin snips, cutting the rear undertray with a utility knife, and trimming one of the canister mounts as described above.
- After modification the rear most canister bracket mounted back up into the original speed nut in its original location using the new longer bolt that came in the kit. The head of this bolt is not big enough IMO, I threw a washer from my stash on it for good measure.
- The forward most canister mounted back into its original location with it's original mounting bolt.
- It was a little sketchy one-manning the lift up to mount. I supported the exhaust with a strap mounted between the lower rear suspension, then put the passenger side of hitch up first and let it rest on the supported exhaust.
- I then worked the driver's side up beside the canister and got a nut on to a hitch bolt. Once 2 nuts were threaded on super loose on the passenger side was easy peasy to lift up from the exhaust and mount.
- The ground wire that needed disconnected went back up on it's original stud in it's original location with it's original nut.

Nothing was really super frustrating other than the rear most exhaust hanger, both getting it on and off. (I don't have the tool, was just using a pry bar). The rear most hanger mounts are opposing on the exhaust and vehicle side making it tough to work it as necessary. Especially when the hitch is installed and you can't tug on the exhaust as much for additional clearance to re-install.

I spent 2.5 hrs on the install including set up and tear down of tools and shuffling vehicles, spread out in 2 sessions while the kiddos were napping. 20 minutes of that was dealing with a mistake I made trying to fish the first nut and plate through the frame. I tried to fish through the wrong hole where there wasn't enough space to get the bolt through and had no choice but to pull it back. It took a while to recover the plate out of the frame. Be sure to double check the holes you're using :)

Was a fun project as a half-seasoned DIY'er comfortable working on cars and having most of the tools needed on hand. In retrospect the Curt hitch seemed pretty simple on the hybrid compared to some of the Draw-tite stories I've seen about ill fitting plates, needing to grind the ground stud off and relocate, requiring addition mods to canister bracket / etc.

The rear kick sensor also still works... when kicking about 6 inches left of center under the bumper. It may work elsewhere but that seems to be the sweet spot I found where I can get it every time.

I hop this helps someone down the road.
 

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Just a follow up for anyone looking at feeback for bike rack use. We used the hitch for the first time today. Everything worked out brilliantly.

There was JUST enough space when tilting the rack forward with the bikes loaded to open the hatch. To do so I had to "unlock" the front most bike to give it an inch or two of slack from the tire claw being tight and centered on the rack. With that little bit of added space the hatch squeezed by the loaded bike without interference. There would be contact with the handlebar if I did not loosen the bike for the extra slack first. On this rack it's a non-issue as it's done with 1-click and re-tightens with a push back down :)

My bike has 1" sorter handle bars than my wife's. It may be able to stay locked in and open the hatch, but I didn't bother trying. I'm confident my road bike could sit in the front portion and be OK with the hatch opening. Ultimately with this particular rack and hitch combo your handle bar height and width will be what affects interference.

On the plus side, the back of the van just swallows a Thule Cross trailer / stroller. I didn't have to do any disassembly at all other than flip the handle bars as forward as possible.

I have the Curt hitch which I didn't bother getting a photo of alone as others have posted. The rack is a Kuat Transfer - 2.






I immediately had to turn off park sense with the rack installed. The Kuat rack's structure is at sensor level on the bumper and I quickly found out I couldn't reverse at all with the rack back there :grin2:
 
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