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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Turns out the 12 volt system was almost totally drained. Tow truck driver measured 3.7 volts before hooking up his jumpers. Once jumped the ICE started immediately and the alternator produced plenty of power. I was able to drive the car to the dealer with the tow truck following in case it shut off. Under normal circumstances the car switches back and forth between ICE and battery but it did not do this at all on the 8 mile drive - it stayed with the ICE the whole way.

At least they gave me a van as a loaner this time.
 

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2021 Pacifica Hybrid Touring L
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Turns out the 12 volt system was almost totally drained. Tow truck driver measured 3.7 volts before hooking up his jumpers. Once jumped the ICE started immediately and the alternator produced plenty of power. I was able to drive the car to the dealer with the tow truck following in case it shut off. Under normal circumstances the car switches back and forth between ICE and battery but it did not do this at all on the 8 mile drive - it stayed with the ICE the whole way.

At least they gave me a van as a loaner this time.
There is no alternator in that car.
Power is taken from traction battery when it will start, through power inverter. But bad accesory battery may cause false faults and shutdowns in long run...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yet another update.

The tow truck driver had a battery booster with him. Applying 12 volts to the system allowed it to start the ICE and I drove to the dealer with the tow truck following. The car stayed on the ICE the whole way - it never switched over to electric. Very unusual as it normally switches back and forth even when the high voltage battery is empty.

Anyway, the dealer reset everything, charged it a few times, maybe "reprogrammed" some stuff, and pronounced it good to go.

I picked it up yesterday and, thus far, it seems to be working normally. I was able to charge it to full (it was at maybe 80% when I started) and everything seems ok...for the moment. We'll see how things go over the next few days and weeks.
 

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Yet another update.

The tow truck driver had a battery booster with him. Applying 12 volts to the system allowed it to start the ICE and I drove to the dealer with the tow truck following. The car stayed on the ICE the whole way - it never switched over to electric. Very unusual as it normally switches back and forth even when the high voltage battery is empty.

Anyway, the dealer reset everything, charged it a few times, maybe "reprogrammed" some stuff, and pronounced it good to go.

I picked it up yesterday and, thus far, it seems to be working normally. I was able to charge it to full (it was at maybe 80% when I started) and everything seems ok...for the moment. We'll see how things go over the next few days and weeks.
So it was 12 volt battery problem the whole time?


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So it was 12 volt battery problem the whole time?
Well... I don't believe that the problem was in the 12 volt system. After retrieving the car from the dealer the first time I was able to drive home in mixed ICE / electric...about 10 miles. Once home, I plugged in my level 1 charger, which appeared to start charging, and left the car over night. In the morning I had the "Service Charging System" CEL (again), the high voltage battery was at more-or-less 0%, and the 12 volt battery only lasted a couple of minutes before it's voltage dropped so far that lights and instruments no longer worked.

So. I conclude that the problem was still in the high voltage and charging system - the OnBoard Charging Module - or something closely related.

It's possible that the OBCM just needed to be reset and recharged or whatever it is that they did and maybe the problem is now fixed. I'm hopeful but not confident.
 
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