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I've been having the same problem since I bought this van a year ago. About 10% of the time I get the message that the power is unavailable. I took it to the dealer, and they charged me $115 to try to figure out what was wrong. They said it was a software update needed, and said they updated the software. But I am still having the problem. Very frustrating. I am going back tomorrow and am asking for a refund on the $115 because they clearly didn't fix anything.

What ....???? They charged you $115 for something that is cleats warranty issue ....??? Unbelievable. Are you out of warranty..?


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I've been having the same problem since I bought this van a year ago. About 10% of the time I get the message that the power is unavailable. I took it to the dealer, and they charged me $115 to try to figure out what was wrong. They said it was a software update needed, and said they updated the software. But I am still having the problem. Very frustrating. I am going back tomorrow and am asking for a refund on the $115 because they clearly didn't fix anything.
As @Bond007 mentioned, if your van is still under the 36,000 mile/36 month warranty, most repairs should be covered. There are a few exclusions that have a 12,000 mile/12 month warranty, but the power doors should be covered unless you have too many miles since none of the 2017 vans are over three years old yet (but some 2017s were manufactured in 2016). If they say that the $115 was a diagnostic fee and they didn't fix the problem, then ask them to check the battery/electrical system if they won't refund the fee. A software update should have been covered under the warranty. You can private message @ChryslerCares as suggested earlier in this thread to see if they can work with the dealer to resolve the problem.
 

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I am having this same issue! I took my van into the dealership and they of course weren’t able to duplicate the issue so it came back unresolved. It’s still happening with no real idea on the cause. Has anyone found a true resouloution for this? I have another appointment at the dealership but am honestly annoyed at this point.
 

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I've been having the same problem since I bought this van a year ago. About 10% of the time I get the message that the power is unavailable. I took it to the dealer, and they charged me $115 to try to figure out what was wrong. They said it was a software update needed, and said they updated the software. But I am still having the problem. Very frustrating. I am going back tomorrow and am asking for a refund on the $115 because they clearly didn't fix anything.
Hi carmabylund,

If you are in need of additional assistance while your vehicle is in service, please send us a private message.

Darlene
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Jstchilin,

Thank you so much for posting a solution! This happened to my 2018 PacHy yesterday. Glad to find your post on the forum. Your solution worked wonderfully. Saved me a trip to dealer.

mjr0483,

I had this exact problem today and figured it out. The online manual states if there is something obstructing it, it shuts off. To reset it, here's what I did. There is a small black box under the track where wires run into both sides. On top you will find a red switch. Switch it in the other direction, leave for a few seconds, then switch it back. Then pull the door all the way back until it clicks and locks. Make sure it doesn't slide forward at all. Then pull the handle out and slide the door to the closed position. When closing, you should feel some resistance. When fully closed, try the button then. Hopefully this will fix it. If not, could be another deeper issue. Hope this helps!
 

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Thank you so much!
I've been battling this door issue for 18 months.
Several trips to the dealership resulted in 0 help.
And this post alone made the darn door work again! Yay!
 

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So I’ve been dealing with this issue far too long. My van has been in the dealership a countless amount of times. They have now had it for over a week. And aren’t having any issues finally duplicating the concern. The dealership opened a STAR case and I have a case with Chrysler as well. STAR has essentially informed the dealership after tiring multiple resolutions and continuing to fail. They don’t know how to fix it and to return the vehicle back to me unresolved!!! The dealership has requested for STAR to have a field tech come out and troubleshoot the vehicle themselves and they aren’t willing to at this time. So the dealership has requested that I reach back out to my case manager to assist in this further.

A couple things that anger me. The case manager has stated I’m the first customer with this concern and clearly I am not. And how is Chrysler no longer willing to repair the issue and expect me to accept this?! What is the next step I am supposed to take?
 

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I came across the problem and went to dealership. They mentioned about some updates which were done, but still have the problem intermittently.
 

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This was the fix for my 2018 Pacifica! I would also add something that is likely obvious to everyone but me: my ignition needed to be on in order to for the fix described below to work. It took me a few unsuccessful tries with the car off before I figured it out.

mjr0483,

I had this exact problem today and figured it out. The online manual states if there is something obstructing it, it shuts off. To reset it, here's what I did. There is a small black box under the track where wires run into both sides. On top you will find a red switch. Switch it in the other direction, leave for a few seconds, then switch it back. Then pull the door all the way back until it clicks and locks. Make sure it doesn't slide forward at all. Then pull the handle out and slide the door to the closed position. When closing, you should feel some resistance. When fully closed, try the button then. Hopefully this will fix it. If not, could be another deeper issue. Hope this helps!
 

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I have a similar, but not exact issue with only my passenger side sliding door. Just about EVERY SINGLE DAY, we get multiple occurrences where the interior controls on the door won't allow it to be opened. You can still open it from the outside controls (manual or electronic) and from the console ceiling button, but not the manual or electronic controls inside the door. The drivers-side sliding door does not experience this issue and it does not have any child safety controls or settings on that would cause this.

I've had multiple trips to the dealer and they returned the car with "couldn't reproduce issue."

This is beyond frustration. We are so done with this car.
 

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Fix

This just happened tonight, but only on the drivers side sliding door. The passenger is fine.
Any method to open or close the door is met with chimes and a error in the dash, Power unavailable, operate manually.

is this a failure or did I turn this option off somehow?
This is most likely a connector wiring harness problem and is easily fixed by you like I fixed mine. It happened to me last week on the passenger side. The door first failed to close and may have had an obstacle in the way near the closed position. Then for the next few days, would simply beep and give the "Sliding Door Power Unavailable" message each time I tried to operate it. Key Fob, door outside button, pillar inside button, overhead console button, and door handle operation, all would do the same thing. I went to this forum, read this thread and suspected the connector. However, at the time I had no certainty of what caused it. I am experienced and familiar with this type of connector failure. It is caused by a combination of poor contact pressure, pin contact surface corrosion or contamination, and thermal cycling and relaxation of the contact pressure. It is aggravated by temperature extremes, age, poor pin material selection or connector design, humidity, and electrical heating. As the connection degrades, the contact heating increases and the problem snowballs. It happens most to power pin connections. This car obviously has current sensing for the door motor that reverses the door when an obstacle gets in the way and loads the door motor (high current limit exceeded for a certain length of time). Current sensing (too low as well as too high) is also used all over the car to detect component failures. One such failure occurs when there is a problem with the door power delivery, hence the message and disabling of the door electrical operation. This is to protect the components as well as alert you to a problem.
This type of failure is hard to diagnose because it is sometimes intermittent. But sometimes when it occurs, it does not go away and is easier to find like in my case.
Troubleshooting is difficult because disconnecting or even disturbing the connector can appear to fix it. Some may feel that this somehow reset things or it just remains unexplained (until it happens again).
A little explanation:
The connector that I suspect caused my problem is the one mentioned by others that is clipped to the plastic plate in the bottom of the door track. As has been pointed out, the red slide on the top of that connector is just a lock. it is not electrical. Operating it may have disturbed the connector enough to get it to work again. However, in my case, no amount of wiggling of wires, disturbance of the connected connector, or flipping this lock made any difference. So here is what I did that fixed it:
1. Grab the plastic plate that the connector is clipped to and pull straight up on it. This releases the plate from the two body studs so that you can pull it, the connector and its wires just out of the track area so you can manipulate it easily.
2. Slide the red lock forward (toward the front of the car).
3. Guide the forward wire bundle out of the retaining tabs of the plate so you will be able to pull the forward connector half free from the other half that is clipped to the plate.
4. Depress the connector lock while pulling the connector apart.
5. Apply bulb (dielectric) grease to the pins to keep them corrosion free and making good contact.
6. Push the connector back together all the way and then apart several times to help clear the contact surfaces.
7. Put it back together the way you took it apart, insuring the plate is clipped onto the studs as before and the wiring is in the restraint and neat in the bottom of the track.
8. Operate the door manually, then try it with a button.

I have a question for anyone else who is having this problem with one of the sliding doors. Before performing a fix, while the problem is active, can you try operating that sliding door's window? Of course, with the driver door window disable function NOT disabled. Since I do not have a wiring diagram, nor do I know where the current trip occurs, it might be instructive to FCA to know if this power disable occurs for all of that door's function or just for the door transit motor.
 

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same exact issue here. multiple occasions. Sorts itself out after a couple of minutes. Driver side. Also, the same door would reverse on occasion. Any positive diagnostics with that?

i suspect if i get it to the dealer, i'd be getting "could not reproduce" response (or worse yet, an attempt at a fix that would leave something else broken).
Ditto
 

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Has anyone who had this problem "Sliding door power unavailable" successfully resolved? It used to happen every few weeks, randomly, but is now happening almost every day, sometimes multiple times in a day. Without power, my kids can't open the door on their own. I thought the dealer could fix it, given it happened even on the day I took it too service, but they just put a note in my papeerwork, that there is STAR case on it, and fix expected in Q2 of 2019. This is starting to get frustrating as this is my second time in shop for this already, and now I have to bring it back yet again.

Hi Chryslercares, I"ll PM you my service details shortly, I hope you could give me some more info regarding the STAR case.
Thx
Tony.
 

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Has anyone who had this problem "Sliding door power unavailable" successfully resolved? It used to happen every few weeks, randomly, but is now happening almost every day, sometimes multiple times in a day. Without power, my kids can't open the door on their own. I thought the dealer could fix it, given it happened even on the day I took it too service, but they just put a note in my papeerwork, that there is STAR case on it, and fix expected in Q2 of 2019. This is starting to get frustrating as this is my second time in shop for this already, and now I have to bring it back yet again.

Hi Chryslercares, I"ll PM you my service details shortly, I hope you could give me some more info regarding the STAR case.
Thx
Tony.
Hi Tony,
We are sorry to hear of this concern with your sliding door and understand your frustration. If you send us a private message, we would be happy to document your concerns for further review. Our team will be sure to keep an eye out for your message.
Jenn
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Drocketman - both of my doors repeated this yesterday (not fun while trying to get my sick child into a Dr's office, screwing with a door that won't shut!) What was really frustrating was that I could not get the door handle to even release to manually close the door??? I finally gave it a mighty jerk, and it closed manually... Just to answer your question (since I was online searching for possible solutions and saw your post during all of this) - YES, the power windows DID operate while the door power was non-functional. So I guess we can assume that they are two different circuits.



By the way, unclipping the connector and plugging back in did nothing for me yesterday...but I will apply some di-electric grease to the pins tonight...hopefully this will make the problem go away. An hour later, the doors were working fine, and are working fine today again. And if it matters, there was nothing blocking the door, or any reversing of the doors before this error occurred again...my son is in a car seat, I am the only one operating the doors. Gotta love the electrical gremlins!
 

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I've been dealing with the "power sliding doors are unavailable" for a few weeks now. Often I can open one of the doors, but then cannot close it with the outside button, A pillar button, or overhead button as I get the unavailable message. I did notice that when I start the car, it is not as strong a start as it had been in the past and leads me to believe that there is some sort of battery/power issue causing this.

To add to this, my dash glitched out, went dark then back up, and then the car promptly died while I was driving. Fortunately I was in a residential area and could take the time to pull over. I got the "Service ESS" message just before it died. I was able to restart it and get it home, but when I tried to start it in the morning, I got no response from the vehicle on the first attempt. The second time it did start and I was presented with "Service Shifter" followed by "Service Emergency Brake". I let the car sit a few hours and decided to take it to the dealer. Of course it was operating correctly when I dropped it off.

It has been at the dealer for 7 days now and they think they have pinpointed the issue to the battery not having the proper voltage. They are replacing that and then mentioned that they will be doing software updates to see if that will correct any other issue. I am out of warranty by 3,000 miles so I am being charged a $160 diagnostic fee that will be applied to service credit, the battery at $170, the software updates and labor...for a rough estimate of $600 for this fix. I'll know the particulars tomorrow when they call to give me an update on the vehicle.
 

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I've been dealing with the "power sliding doors are unavailable" for a few weeks now. Often I can open one of the doors, but then cannot close it with the outside button, A pillar button, or overhead button as I get the unavailable message. I did notice that when I start the car, it is not as strong a start as it had been in the past and leads me to believe that there is some sort of battery/power issue causing this.

To add to this, my dash glitched out, went dark then back up, and then the car promptly died while I was driving. Fortunately I was in a residential area and could take the time to pull over. I got the "Service ESS" message just before it died. I was able to restart it and get it home, but when I tried to start it in the morning, I got no response from the vehicle on the first attempt. The second time it did start and I was presented with "Service Shifter" followed by "Service Emergency Brake". I let the car sit a few hours and decided to take it to the dealer. Of course it was operating correctly when I dropped it off.

It has been at the dealer for 7 days now and they think they have pinpointed the issue to the battery not having the proper voltage. They are replacing that and then mentioned that they will be doing software updates to see if that will correct any other issue. I am out of warranty by 3,000 miles so I am being charged a $160 diagnostic fee that will be applied to service credit, the battery at $170, the software updates and labor...for a rough estimate of $600 for this fix. I'll know the particulars tomorrow when they call to give me an update on the vehicle.
Hi batman077,
We're sorry to hear about your experience. If you need any assistance while working with your dealer, please send our team a private message!
Alex
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 
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