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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have been scouring the forums to see if my situation was replicated elsewhere but haven't found it yet, so here we go:
2017 Pacifica Touring L, 32,000 miles

--Driver's side sliding door suddenly stopped working, said Power unavailable, operate manually. It does not operate manually or with power. Lived with this for a week or so
--Passenger side door suddenly stops working with same symptoms. Doors will not open with power or manually, with pillar buttons, fob, interior buttons, interior handles, interior buttons
--Both windows on both doors are working
-- Button on pillar is off, but on does not change anything
-- Can't check wiring harnesses or child safety locks, because door cannot be opened manually
--Checked all the relevant fuses... the 25A Circuit Breaker CB3, not sure if this can be reset or just needs to be replaced, but not sure if its relevant either
-- tried "hard reset", removing battery cables from battery, binding them together with a jumper wire over night, not sure this totally works though because the radio stations are not forgotten, maybe there is a backup battery on the computer?
-- Updated the UConnect software to latest available
-- I feel like this should be an ECU/computer issue, but not sure at all at this point.

I am out of ideas, and of course my vehicle is out of warranty even though its not at 36,000 miles, so I'm trying to avoid one of these $1000 tail-chasing dealer exercise. Thank you for reading this!

Cheers,
Dana
 

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2017 Pacifica Touring L (9/2016 Build)
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Hi all,
I have been scouring the forums to see if my situation was replicated elsewhere but haven't found it yet, so here we go:
2017 Pacifica Touring L, 32,000 miles

--Driver's side sliding door suddenly stopped working, said Power unavailable, operate manually. It does not operate manually or with power. Lived with this for a week or so
--Passenger side door suddenly stops working with same symptoms. Doors will not open with power or manually, with pillar buttons, fob, interior buttons, interior handles, interior buttons
--Both windows on both doors are working
-- Button on pillar is off, but on does not change anything
-- Can't check wiring harnesses or child safety locks, because door cannot be opened manually
--Checked all the relevant fuses... the 25A Circuit Breaker CB3, not sure if this can be reset or just needs to be replaced, but not sure if its relevant either
-- tried "hard reset", removing battery cables from battery, binding them together with a jumper wire over night, not sure this totally works though because the radio stations are not forgotten, maybe there is a backup battery on the computer?
-- Updated the UConnect software to latest available
-- I feel like this should be an ECU/computer issue, but not sure at all at this point.

I am out of ideas, and of course my vehicle is out of warranty even though its not at 36,000 miles, so I'm trying to avoid one of these $1000 tail-chasing dealer exercise. Thank you for reading this!

Cheers,
Dana
I don't know that I have a solution, but maybe answering some questions might help others help you.
Build date (on driver's door edge)? This tells us how old the battery might be. Low or dead batteries can cause a variety of issues.
Is the blue light on the overhead console on? If so press the button to turn it off. It controls power to the pillar buttons so kids can't unlock the power doors by pressing the pillar buttons, but that doesn't explain not being able to open the doors manually.
Check battery voltage in display when in the RUN position without pressing the brake pedal. Is there an Aux battery next to the main battery?
Can either sliding door be opened manually from the outside? Are they unlocked? Try pressing the unlock button on the driver's door to be sure all doors are unlocked.
It doesn't make sense that you can't open unlocked doors from the outside manually, so it may require a dealer visit. I hope someone has a solution for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for responding.
The build date is June 2016. The blue light is not on, but behaves no differently when it is on. Neither sliding door can be opened manually from the outside or inside with any buttons or handles when door is unlocked. I tried turning the car in "run" but not on model, only the seat belt light is on and then the yellow engine light solid blinks for a 5 seconds or so then back to solid. I don't see anything about batteries.

Cheers,
Dana
 

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Thank you for responding.
The build date is June 2016. The blue light is not on, but behaves no differently when it is on. Neither sliding door can be opened manually from the outside or inside with any buttons or handles when door is unlocked. I tried turning the car in "run" but not on model, only the seat belt light is on and then the yellow engine light solid blinks for a 5 seconds or so then back to solid. I don't see anything about batteries.

Cheers,
Dana
Is the van starting and driving normally otherwise?

The problem of the sliding door not opening manually seems to be the problem to be addressed.

To find the battery voltage, put the van in the RUN position (without the brake applied), after a few seconds look in the center section of the display. To find the battery voltage use up/down arrow buttons on the left side of the steering wheel and go to "2. vehicle information". Then use the left/right arrows to find the battery info. Voltage in the RUN position without running should be around 12V. If less, then battery may be getting low and should be checked at some point. (When you are driving the van, the voltage maybe over 13V without the headlights on.) I have replaced two batteries, so I always consider if a battery could be a source of a problem since the van's systems seem to rely on the battery so much.

I hope someone else has some suggestions for you. I'm not a mechanic, I just have a similar van and have been reading the forum for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm, I just looked at the voltage in "RUN" and it is indeed lower than 12 (11.3). I'll start with a new battery and work from there. I will update if that does the trick. Thanks! Dana
 

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Hmm, I just looked at the voltage in "RUN" and it is indeed lower than 12 (11.3). I'll start with a new battery and work from there. I will update if that does the trick. Thanks! Dana
You can also check:
The sliding door locks show red (unlocked),
The UConnect Uapps> settings>doors and locks> "auto unlock on exit", and 1st press of fob "unlocks all doors" are checked.
 

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@BrettP (or anyone else) any suggestions?
 

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Hi all,
I have been scouring the forums to see if my situation was replicated elsewhere but haven't found it yet, so here we go:
2017 Pacifica Touring L, 32,000 miles

--Driver's side sliding door suddenly stopped working, said Power unavailable, operate manually. It does not operate manually or with power. Lived with this for a week or so
--Passenger side door suddenly stops working with same symptoms. Doors will not open with power or manually, with pillar buttons, fob, interior buttons, interior handles, interior buttons
--Both windows on both doors are working
-- Button on pillar is off, but on does not change anything
-- Can't check wiring harnesses or child safety locks, because door cannot be opened manually
--Checked all the relevant fuses... the 25A Circuit Breaker CB3, not sure if this can be reset or just needs to be replaced, but not sure if its relevant either
-- tried "hard reset", removing battery cables from battery, binding them together with a jumper wire over night, not sure this totally works though because the radio stations are not forgotten, maybe there is a backup battery on the computer?
-- Updated the UConnect software to latest available
-- I feel like this should be an ECU/computer issue, but not sure at all at this point.

I am out of ideas, and of course my vehicle is out of warranty even though its not at 36,000 miles, so I'm trying to avoid one of these $1000 tail-chasing dealer exercise. Thank you for reading this!

Cheers,
Dana
Hi Dana,

We certainly regret to hear this! Please feel free to follow up via private message with more details as we would be happy to see how we can assist further from our end.

Alex
Chrysler Cares
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I replaced the battery with the high end interstate AGP battery at Costco ($175!!)... Didn't initially work, thought maybe the battery had been sitting, but ran the car around for an hour today and figured the battery should be good and charged, so still no action on sliding doors manual or power. Kids and dog enjoy entering the car from the lift gate, but it really needs fixing. Sure seems there should be some trick to emergency release the door latches when they are both locked closed.
 

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I replaced the battery with the high end interstate AGP battery at Costco ($175!!)... Didn't initially work, thought maybe the battery had been sitting, but ran the car around for an hour today and figured the battery should be good and charged, so still no action on sliding doors manual or power. Kids and dog enjoy entering the car from the lift gate, but it really needs fixing. Sure seems there should be some trick to emergency release the door latches when they are both locked closed.
Sorry that the new battery didn't solve the problem. It is odd that the sliding doors can't be opened manually. Can you move the sliding door lock switch with your hand? A dealer visit will probably be needed.
 

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My 14 T& C had the same issue. Seems like a huge safety hazard, but neither the button or the mechanical handle would allow the slider to open. They had to replace the power latch Assembly to fix it. I'm guessing this is what happened to your van as well. The best part of the whole story is they call me and tell me that the van is done but they wanted to let me know the other door latch was broken as well, and it needed to be replaced too. Yep the Tech replaced the wrong door latch so we got two new latches for the price of one.
 

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My 14 T& C had the same issue. Seems like a huge safety hazard, but neither the button or the mechanical handle would allow the slider to open. They had to replace the power latch Assembly to fix it. I'm guessing this is what happened to your van as well. The best part of the whole story is they call me and tell me that the van is done but they wanted to let me know the other door latch was broken as well, and it needed to be replaced too. Yep the Tech replaced the wrong door latch so we got two new latches for the price of one.
Thanks for the suggestion for @GreatDana .
 

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Hi all,
I have been scouring the forums to see if my situation was replicated elsewhere but haven't found it yet, so here we go:
2017 Pacifica Touring L, 32,000 miles

--Driver's side sliding door suddenly stopped working, said Power unavailable, operate manually. It does not operate manually or with power. Lived with this for a week or so
--Passenger side door suddenly stops working with same symptoms. Doors will not open with power or manually, with pillar buttons, fob, interior buttons, interior handles, interior buttons
--Both windows on both doors are working
-- Button on pillar is off, but on does not change anything
-- Can't check wiring harnesses or child safety locks, because door cannot be opened manually
--Checked all the relevant fuses... the 25A Circuit Breaker CB3, not sure if this can be reset or just needs to be replaced, but not sure if its relevant either
-- tried "hard reset", removing battery cables from battery, binding them together with a jumper wire over night, not sure this totally works though because the radio stations are not forgotten, maybe there is a backup battery on the computer?
-- Updated the UConnect software to latest available
-- I feel like this should be an ECU/computer issue, but not sure at all at this point.

I am out of ideas, and of course my vehicle is out of warranty even though its not at 36,000 miles, so I'm trying to avoid one of these $1000 tail-chasing dealer exercise. Thank you for reading this!

Cheers,
Dana
We had a similar issue after our 5 yr. old grandson pushed every button he could find. We found it on the small consul above the rear view mirror on our '17 Pacifica.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update:
I finally stopped fiddling around with stuff inside the door panel and took it to Mendenhall Auto (a Chrysler and everything else dealer), and they were able to get the driver's side working (power and manual) and the other side working in manual. That cost me $150, wish I would have taken it in earlier. He was nice enough to say that he didn't know what was going on with the passenger side door and that it would probably cost a lot of money to start replacing things, so I kept it as is. He said the left one got fixed by a "computer relearning." I want to follow up to find out what he did... but at least its working now!

Cheers,
Dana
 

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Update:
I finally stopped fiddling around with stuff inside the door panel and took it to Mendenhall Auto (a Chrysler and everything else dealer), and they were able to get the driver's side working (power and manual) and the other side working in manual. That cost me $150, wish I would have taken it in earlier. He was nice enough to say that he didn't know what was going on with the passenger side door and that it would probably cost a lot of money to start replacing things, so I kept it as is. He said the left one got fixed by a "computer relearning." I want to follow up to find out what he did... but at least its working now!

Cheers,
Dana
A "computer relearning" wow with all that you did I wonder what this also entails? Let us know if you find out. Glad to hear at least you have one door working with power and both in manual. I wonder what was not allowing the manual operation?

I guess this is the cost of technology. I had a 96 Grand Caravan for 14 years that nothing ever broke on, after 190K miles living in the northeast the rust finally did it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So an update: The manual door re-locked itself closed on the passenger side. I called the dealer and asked what the trick was and he said they do it with their computer, but obviously that's not a solution. I am wondering if I keep that button to turn off power sliding doors on, and then reset it again, if that might prevent it. I heard the door cinch itself closed before it re-locked again. Question for the forums, if I get one of these midlevel scanner tools, can I reset the doors myself?

 
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