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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are several threads on this topic, in my case passenger side sliding door did not lock with all the others so you could open them setting off the alarm. In addition it made buzzing noise whenever unlocking the car.
Quick fix is to move door lock knob back and forth few times, for me it helped for a few days, permanent fix - go to a dealer, unfortunately for me it's not an option as the car is out of warranty and out of US...
Going through the threads on this issue I decided to try to replace the actuator and it helped so below is how I did it. Why DIY? Cost is $22.60.

Disclaimers:
1. I'm not native English - I speak only "Polish" English :)
2. I'm not a mechanic - this is how I figured out how to do the fix, may not be the easiest way, not the best, probably not the proper one either

What you need:
1. Actuator (careful, may be different for each side) 2018 Chrysler Pacifica Parts - Lock actuator - 68185976AC
2. T15, T30, 10mm socket wrench
3. No kids around!
4. 30-40 minutes if it goes smooth - never does :)

How I did it:
1. Remove the black upper back part of the panel (triangle), I pulled it towards the front of the car, had to use the force, fortunately nothing broke. Opening the window first helps :)
2. Remove fuse F27 so that I could open the doors half way and take off door panel without taking off the door completely
3. Take off 1 and 2, don't use screwdriver, use something plastic, give yourself a chance not to leave nasty scars on the panel
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3. Unscrew 3 bolts, later when you unpin whole panel, push two blue marked pins to detach handle from the panel
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4. To unpin the panel, upper part needs to go u bit up. rest you need to pull towards inside of the car, bottom middle pins let go when you out your hand between door and the panel and give it a push from inside, hope that makes any sense...
5. Detach handle and power window switch plug
6. Unscrew 4 bolts of te plastic cover and release the cables, detach the wiring
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7. Unscrew 3 bolts holding the lock (actually I could do it before #6)
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8. Take out the whole panel with lock, needs a bit twisting
9. Unscrew lock module, two bolts in the front and two in the back, blue T15 holds the actuator, detach actuator plug (green)
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10. When blue T15 is gone, you can detach actuator from the lock module. take off the cable, it has a hooky end so needs some twist and turn to release.
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11. Replace actuator and put it all back together in reverse order ;)
 

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Well, I certainly hope this problem doesn't occur in our van, but if it does I am certainly grateful to you for posting instructions on how to fix it. Many thanks!
 

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Great write up! Thank you for taking the time to do this. You've been stickied
 
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I am currently doing this. How in the world did you get past STEP 8?? I have been struggling (really struggling) to get the panel & lock out for over an hour now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am currently doing this. How in the world did you get past STEP 8?? I have been struggling (really struggling) to get the panel & lock out for over an hour now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Did you get it out?
I don't rememer exactly now but it wasn't hard, I had to twist it left and raight and it came out.
 

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I actually did this job today. The instructions above were pretty helpful. It did took me a couple of hours with beer breaks in between but in the end it worked. The right sliding door is locking and unlocking with the rest of the doors after replacing the bad lock actuator. The issue of the door being opened from the outside and triggering the alarm is fixed. By the way the replacement part number is

68185976AD
the 68185976AC has been replaced maybe it's faulty.

Some tips and lesson learned....

1) Stow the seat. You'll have plenty of room if you did.

2) If you have the window shade like mine, don't try taking the panel off from where the window shade panel seams because it will break the clips inside. You have to take the whole panel off with window shade and all.

3) For this issue:
bschueneman said:
I am currently doing this. How in the world did you get past STEP 8?? I have been struggling (really struggling) to get the panel & lock out for over an hour now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Unclip the cables to give you more flexibility. Disconnect wire harnesses to prevent accidently breaking wires.
When everything seems free, push the locking assembly down far enough to get the top end out of the door housing. So I pushed it down until I can slip the top end of the assembly then the rest will come out. CAREFUL not to break the wires which are sticking out from the top of the assembly. Also wear gloves, the inside of the door has some sharp edges that can cut you or the wires.

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Replacing the actuator is fairly easy, there's only one screw holding it down. Make sure it works first by installing the hook back in and plugging the wire harness back in. Lock and unlock the doors a few times to see if it works.

4) Putting the assembly back inside the door housing is the reverse, the bottom part goes in first then the top, again, watch for those wires.

5) Before you screw in the four housing assembly bolts, make sure to screw in the 3 black screws first on the rear part of the door because it will be hard to line them up if the 4 housing assembly bolts are installed ( I noticed they had threadlockers on them so it wouldn't hurt if you dab a blue threadlocker on those 3 screws before installing them).

6) Lining up the panels back in is tricky, it would help if you have a someone else to hold the panel while its being lined up to its holders. I did it by myself but took a lot of tries because when you line up the front then the back side pops out and vice versa. One lesson I learned when it didn't want to pop back in was that one of the anchors came off with the panel. So make sure the yellow anchors are all at the door and not on the panel.

7) After everything looks secure, plug the F27 fuse back in and close the door all the way manually first then cycle it a couple to times using the sliding door button.
8) Cycle the locks a few times to make sure they all work too.
9) Lock your doors like normal and take your keys far away and test to see if it the original problem still exist. ( being able to open the sliding door and triggering the alarm) If not... then you just fixed the issue without paying the dealership diagnosing fees and labor fees.

The only flaw in my handywork I saw was that the bottom rear panel is a little looser than when I got started but it doesn't affect the door's function or cause and rattles.

Hopes this help.
 

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Thank you OP for this writeup!! Your instructions were great, I spent more time cleaning all my kid’s junk out of the way to stow the seat than I did replacing the actual part. I can only imagine what the dealer would’ve charged to do this, I’m sure it would’ve been way more than $16 and 30 min of my time. I owe you a beer, or several.
 

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Add me to the list of folks who successfully repaired this issue, thanks to this thread!

A couple small tidbits to add to these instructions...

At original poster's step #1, I had a hard time figuring out where the triangle back panel was. It only looks like a triangle from outside... this black piece of trim is what should be removed:
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At original poster's step #8 which bschueneman asked about, the key for me was simply closing the window, which it took me embarrassingly too long to realize is what was in the way. 😣

Finally, when trying to line up the clips and reinstall the panel, next time I will try lining up the clips in the middle first. These are a pain, I ended up breaking one. After the middle ones are in, set the top edge, then you can reach each of the edge pins to line them up to their holes. If they aren't staying in, give the panel a good whack with your palm to try to get them to set.

Huge thanks to @mass and @mgabat for the help here!
 

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Great write up waiting to see if I need to have it fixed or diy. But wanted to add my experience with it so far. I have had this issue for the last month or so now, but waiting for it to permanently stop working. Currently right now, it seems when the door is closing at the same time the car is starting, the actuator stops responding to movement. My temp solution for right now has been. Opening the sliding door, manually switch it to the lock position, and then closed the door. Then unlock the vehicle with either pressing the remote or the door unlock. I may need to do this once or twice, but then the actuator starts responding correctly until the issue occurs again. There was another thread that mentioned that it could also involve a module update, so I'm assuming mines might be both. The door does seem to randomly open sometimes when it's closing. This happens when the car is turning on.
 

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Posts above were very helpful, but still an ugly, putsy, fussy job. I hope they have improved the part I bought to put in.
Works again now, but geez...
 

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This is an old thread I know, but giving credit where credit is due - thanks to those who went before me, and documented their efforts here. Mine had the same issue (why do you suppose it's consistently the RIGHT rear door?). Following what folks reported here I was able to change mine in about an hour.
 

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Wow, just wow. I accidentally discovered this issue on my van today when I forgot my key fob in the house and went to open the right rear sliding door thinking the van was unlocked which set off the alarm. Is there an official fix the dealership can do? Mine has a warranty and I'd rather have them deal with it instead of me. This is ridiculous. Second actuator that will be replaced on mine. Albeit the first one was a climate control actuator. Makes me feel real secure leaving the van now.

Edit: Just ordered the part on eBay. I'm beginning to think that I should start stockpiling parts for this thing.
 

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I see you've ordered the part, that's good. The 'official' fix would be the very same thing that we're doing ourselves - replace that actuator with the (hopefully) updated part. It's a new part number, I hope that means the issue with the part itself has been corrected.
Personally this is one of those things I'd rather do myself than take to a dealer to get done, even if under warranty. It would be less of my time to do it myself than to take it to the dealer and wait for them to work in it to their schedule.
 

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I see you've ordered the part, that's good. The 'official' fix would be the very same thing that we're doing ourselves - replace that actuator with the (hopefully) updated part. It's a new part number, I hope that means the issue with the part itself has been corrected.
Personally this is one of those things I'd rather do myself than take to a dealer to get done, even if under warranty. It would be less of my time to do it myself than to take it to the dealer and wait for them to work in it to their schedule.
Exactly my thought with going to the dealer. eBay was the cheapest I could find when you included shipping. I have the trim removal tools. Maybe when I'm in there I'll add some sound proofing for the speakers that rattle.

I'm becoming very frustrated with this van already. It's been to the dealer twice, and every time I turn around I seem to find something else that's either screwed up or not working, or just annoys me to no end. For the cost of the vehicle and the age of it, I shouldn't have to be replacing these things already. I have a 2007 Buick with over 115K miles on it that the actuator JUST stopped working on one of the back doors. I'm three months in with this van and I'm already having to replace more parts than I did on my old Buick (not counting brakes and rotors). Unfortunately the salt up here is eating the rest of the Buick away. I can't imagine at this rate what this van is going to look like at 15 years old. I tend to keep vehicles until they are ready to be driven to the junk yard. I don't see this happening with this thing.

Edit: Figured I'd run a diagnostic on it using AlfaOBD. You can hear the module clicking and actually feel it when you put your hand by where it would be located, but it does absolutely nothing. All other doors behave as would be expected. Only other thing I could find is an error code stating that the door handle position was unavailable. I cleared that code and tried again, but same result with the lock, but the code stayed cleared.
 

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Just finished the repair. It took me about 1.5 hours with a beer break, a rubber mallet, and some swearing. I also kept checking to make sure things were working as well. Without stowing the seat there would be no way I could have done it. The triangle looking trim piece was probably the hardest part, besides figuring out how the locking cable goes into the new actuator. Ended up not breaking anything though. The rubber mallet worked great for getting the triangle back on. I was over it at that point.

I took the old part and took it apart. Looks like a little plastic piece failed inside that didn't allow the little 12v motor to move the locking mechanism. Motor works great, and is now part of my spare parts. Might make something with it. Unbelievable that they used what they did to make this. You can see the yellowish plastic and there's a spindle that turns and appears to have worn down enough where it wouldn't make contact with the rest of the parts. Underneath the plastic is a spring that seems to be worn as well on mine.
Tool Bicycle part Machine Automotive exterior Motor vehicle
 
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