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Discussion Starter #1
Where exactly are the spark plugs located on our pacificas? I replaced the air filter yesterday and was kinda looking around for them i didnt see much. 3 might be located back by the firewall? I am afraid someone is going to tell me under the intake and that does not look fun to take off. I am one that likes to replace plugs about every 30 to 50k.
 

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From looking at a picture of the engine (attached picture is of the Hybrid engine/transmission, but the engine itself is mechanically very similar) I would agree that they pretty much have to be under the intake. My manual specs 100,000 mile plug changes. With good quality plugs, I don't think that is unreasonable any more.
 

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Where exactly are the spark plugs located on our pacificas? I replaced the air filter yesterday and was kinda looking around for them i didnt see much. 3 might be located back by the firewall? I am afraid someone is going to tell me under the intake and that does not look fun to take off. I am one that likes to replace plugs about every 30 to 50k.

there is really no need to change them that often anymore. id say75 to 100k changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm hesitant to go 100k after changing my previous vehicle plugs at 50k. At 50k our 2012 equinox had a crack plug and two plugs were not gaped according manual specs.
 

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The spark plugs are under pencil coils located on top of the two valve covers. The cover under the wiper cowling is somewhat exposed because the intake manifold is off center whereby it droops more over the other valve cover near the radiator, thereby covering those pencil coils.

So, yes, the intake manifold must come off if you want to change out all six plugs. The job isn't too bad for an experienced shade tree mechanic, but might be best left to the professionals for others with less experience. There are a number of electrical connections that must be undone/redone (some single lock, others double lock), as well as various hoses and a few brackets, all of which need to be refastened correctly during reassembly. There are also certain torque settings that must be used not only for the spark plugs, but for the intake manifold bolts themselves; and the intake bolts need to be tightened in a certain order.

As regards changing them every 30k to 50k miles, the manufacturer's service schedule says 100k, so that is what I plan to abide by. And while I would love to tackle this job myself, I will be leaving it to the pros.
 

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The spark plugs are under pencil coils located on top of the two valve covers. The cover under the wiper cowling is somewhat exposed because the intake manifold is off center whereby it droops more over the other valve cover near the radiator, thereby covering those pencil coils.

So, yes, the intake manifold must come off if you want to change out all six plugs. The job isn't too bad for an experienced shade tree mechanic, but might be best left to the professionals for others with less experience. There are a number of electrical connections that must be undone/redone (some single lock, others double lock), as well as various hoses and a few brackets, all of which need to be refastened correctly during reassembly. There are also certain torque settings that must be used not only for the spark plugs, but for the intake manifold bolts themselves; and the intake bolts need to be tightened in a certain order.

As regards changing them every 30k to 50k miles, the manufacturer's service schedule says 100k, so that is what I plan to abide by. And while I would love to tackle this job myself, I will be leaving it to the pros.
It will probably be years until my Pacifica will need the plugs changed. I wonder has anybody got a price from a dealership for changing the plugs? $$$
 

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There is a slight misfire, only 34k on the Pacifica.... either a plug or a coil... so much for 100k maintenance...
 

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL


  1. Remove the ignition coil (Refer to Electrical/Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal and Installation).

  2. Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air into the cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.

    CAUTION
    The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.

  3. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head using a quality thin wall socket with a rubber or foam insert.

    CAUTION
    Cleaning platinum plugs may damage the platinum center electrode or the thin platinum pad.

  4. Inspect the spark plug condition.
INSTALLATION


  1. Check and adjust the spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool (1) (Refer to Electrical/8I - Ignition Control - Specifications)


    CAUTION
    Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged.


    CAUTION
    The spark plug tubes (1) are a thin wall design. Avoid damaging the spark plug tubes. Damage to the spark plug tube can result in oil leaks.

  2. Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading.

    CAUTION
    Spark plug torque is critical and must not exceed the specified value. Overtightening stretches the spark plug shell reducing its heat transfer capability resulting in possible catastrophic engine failure.

  3. Tighten the spark plugs to the proper (Torque Specifications).
  4. Install the ignition coil (Refer to Electrical/Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal and Installation).
SPARK PLUG

Engine Electrode Gap
3.6L Upgrade Pentastar1.10 mm


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTIONN·mFt. Lbs.In. Lbs.Comments
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt (CMP) - 3.6L129
Ignition Capacitor1089
Ignition Coil Mounting - 3.6L862
* Knock Sensor - 3.6L2115
Spark Plugs - 3.6L1813
Variable Valve Timing Solenoids - 3.6L435
* Do not apply any sealant, thread-locker or adhesive to bolts. Poor sensor performance may result.
 

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION - Ignition Coil
REMOVAL

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the IBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable.

    NOTE
    It is not necessary to remove the upper intake manifold to service the ignition coils for cylinders 1,3, or 5 on the RH side of the engine.

  2. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal and Installation).

  3. If removing the ignition coil from cylinder 2, loosen the upper intake manifold support bracket bolt (1).

  4. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil.

  5. Remove the ignition coil (1) mounting bolt.
  6. Pull the ignition coil (1) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action.
INSTALLATION

  1. Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or contaminants from around the top of spark plug.
  2. Check the condition of the ignition coil rubber boot. Inspect the opening of the boot for any debris, tears or rips. Carefully remove any debris with a lint free cloth.


    CAUTION
    Do not apply a silicone based grease such as Mopar® Dielectric Grease to the ignition coil rubber boot. The silicone based grease will absorb into the boot causing it to stick and tear.

  3. Place a small, 360° bead of Mopar® Molykote G–5008 lubricant (1) along the inside opening of the coil boot approximately 1 to 2 mm from the chamfer edge but not on the chamfered surface.

  4. Position the ignition coil (1) into the cylinder head cover opening. Using a twisting action, push the ignition coil onto the spark plug.
  5. Install the ignition coil mounting bolt and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications).

  6. Connect and lock the electrical connector (1) to the ignition coil.
  7. If removed, install the insulator and the upper intake manifold (Refer to Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal and Installation).

  8. If loosened, tighten the upper intake manifold support bracket bolt (1) to the proper (Torque Specifications).
  9. Connect the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), connect the IBS connector to the negative battery cable.
 

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UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL


  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the engine cover (Refer to Engine/COVER, Engine/Removal and Installation).
  3. Remove the air cleaner resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner/Removal and Installation).

  4. Disconnect Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor wire harness connectors (1) and detach the wire harness retainer from the manifold.

  5. Disconnect the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) wire harness connectors (1) and detach the wire harness retainer (2) from the ETC.

  6. Disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose (1).

  7. Disconnect the brake booster (1) and detach the hose (2) from manifold.

  8. Disconnect the evaporative purge solenoid wire harness connector and detach the wire harness retainer from the manifold.

  9. Disconnect the vapor purge line (1).
  10. Remove the electric vacuum pump and bracket (Refer to 05 - Brakes, Base/Electrical/PUMP, Electric Vacuum/Removal and Installation) .

  11. Remove the nut (1) from the upper intake manifold stud.
  12. Remove the lower mounting bracket bolt (2) from the cylinder head.

  13. Remove the two upper intake manifold support bracket bolts (1).

  14. Disconnect the EGR valve wire harness connector.
  15. Disconnect the EGR cooler hose (1) from the EGR valve.

    Click to Enlarge​

    NOTE
    The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.


    NOTE
    Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.

  16. Remove the eight bolts and the upper intake manifold.

    Click to Enlarge​
  17. Inspect and reuse if acceptable, the six upper to lower intake manifold gaskets.
  18. Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

  19. If necessary, remove the insulator (1) from the left cylinder head cover.
 

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INSTALLATION




NOTE
Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts (1) were not inadvertently loosened. If loosened, the bolts must installed to the proper specification (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel/Removal and Installation).


  1. Clean and inspect the upper seals of the lower intake manifold assembly, and replace only if necessary.

    Click to Enlarge​
  2. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install the upper to lower intake manifold gaskets.

  3. Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses (1) are in the correct position so that they do not interfere with the upper intake manifold installation.

  4. If removed, install the insulator (1) on top of the LH cylinder head cover.
  5. Lift and hold the eight upper intake attaching bolts clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface.
  6. Position the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes in the lower intake manifold.

    Click to Enlarge​
  7. Install the eight upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to the proper (Torque Specifications).

  8. Connect the EGR cooler hose (1) from the EGR valve.
  9. Connect the EGR valve wire harness connector.

  10. Install the two upper intake manifold support bracket bolts (1) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications).

  11. Position the support bracket onto the intake manifold stud and tighten the lower mounting bolt (2) to the proper (Torque Specifications).
  12. Install the support bracket nut (1) and tighten the nut to the proper (Torque Specifications).
  13. Install the electric vacuum pump and bracket (Refer to 05 - Brakes, Base/Electrical/PUMP, Electric Vacuum/Removal and Installation) .

  14. Connect the vapor purge (1).

  15. Connect the evaporative purge solenoid wire harness connector and attach the wire harness retainer to the manifold.

  16. Connect the brake booster (1) and attach the hose (2) to the manifold.

  17. Connect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (1).

  18. Connect the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) wire harness connectors (1) and attach the wire harness retainer (2) to the ETC.

  19. Connect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) wire harness connectors and attach the wire harness retainer to the manifold.
  20. Install the air cleaner intake resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner/Removal and Installation).
  21. Connect the negative battery cable.
  22. Install the engine cover (Refer to Engine/COVER, Engine/Removal and Installation).
CYLINDER HEAD


DESCRIPTIONN·mFt. Lbs.In. Lbs.COMMENT
Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts1089
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Bolt1089
Cylinder Head Oil Galley Plug1813
Cylinder Head Oil Restrictor M8 Plug1511
Cylinder Head BoltsSpecific Torque Sequence (Refer to Engine/Cylinder Head/Removal and Installation)
Cylinder Head Cover M6 Bolts129
Catalytic Converter to Cylinder Head M8 Bolts2317
EGR Cooler Mounting Bracket Bolts2317
EGR Cooler Tube Bolts2317
EGR Valve Nuts118
Fuel Rail to Lower Intake Manifold M6 Bolts762
Heater Core Supply Tube to Cylinder Head M8 Bolt129
Ignition Capacitor to Cylinder Head M6 Bolts1089
Ignition Coil to Cylinder Head Cover M6 Bolts1089
Intake Manifold (Upper) M6 Bolts1089
Intake Manifold (Lower) M6 Bolts980
Oil Control Valve/Cam Phaser Bolt – Exhaust150118
Oil Control Valve/Cam Phaser Bolt – Intake30 + 45° Turn22+45° Turn
Oil Temperature Sensor to Cylinder Head118
Spark Plug to Cylinder Head1813
Upper Intake Manifold Support Bracket to Cylinder Head M8 Bolt1713
Upper Intake Manifold Support Bracket to Upper Intake Manifold M6 Nuts980
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid to Cylinder Head Cover Bolt435
Variable Valve Lift Solenoid Bolt107
Wire Harness Retainer Bracket to LH Cylinder Head Bolts107


DESCRIPTIONN·mFt. Lbs.In. Lbs.COMMENT
Fuel Rail to Intake Manifold Bolts762
Fuel Tank Strap Bolts5440
Fuel Fill Tube Clamp435
Fuel Tank Filler Tube Mounting Bracket Nuts653
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTIONN·mFt. Lbs.In. Lbs.COMMENT
Accelerator Pedal bolts129
Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt129
Fuel Rail Bolts762
Oxygen Sensor (Downstream)4332
Oxygen Sensors (Upstream)4332
Throttle Body Bolts980
 

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL



  1. Remove the bolts (1) from the engine cover.
  2. Pull upward from the rear of the engine cover to release from the ball stud mounting and remove the engine cover.
INSTALLATION


  1. Align the rubber mount sockets of the engine cover to the ball studs and press firmly downwards.
  2. Install the bolts (1) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications).
 

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Electric Vacuum Pump
REMOVAL

  1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the IBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine cover (Refer to Engine/COVER, Engine/Removal and Installation).

  3. Remove the air inlet duct and the upper air filter housing.
  4. Disconnect the vacuum line from the electric vacuum pump (3).
  5. Remove the two electric vacuum pump bolts (1).
  6. Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from electric vacuum pump, then release the pump wiring from the retaining clip.
  7. Remove the electric vacuum pump.
INSTALLATION


  1. 1. Install the two electric vacuum pump bolts (1), tighten the two electric vacuum pump bolts to the proper (Torque Specifications)(Refer To List 1).
  2. Connect the electrical connection (2) for the brake servo vacuum electric pump, engage the pump wiring in the retaining clip.
  3. Install the vacuum line (3) to the electric vacuum pump.
  4. Install the air inlet duct and the upper air filter housing.
  5. Install engine cover (Refer to Engine/COVER, Engine/Removal and Installation).
  6. Connect the negative battery cable. If equipped with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), connect the IBS connector.
Torque Specifications
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTIONN·mFt. Lbs.In. Lbs.COMMENT
ABS Control Unit Bolt2720
ABS Control Unit Nut2720
ABS/HCU Support Bracket Nut99
Brake Hose Banjo Bolt3526310
Vacuum Pump Bolt1089
Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Front202149
Caliper Mounting Bracket Bolt Rear150110
Master Cylinder to Booster Nut2317Do not reuse fastener. If removed, a new fastener must be installed and tightened to specifications.
Splash Shield To Knuckle Bolts871
Wheel Speed Sensor Screw871Do not reuse fastener. If removed, a new fastener must be installed and tightened to specifications.
Brake Hose Bracket Trailing Arm Bolt980
Brake Hose Bracket to Front Strut Bolt980
Rear Brake Tube to Union Block Flare Nut1813
Brake Tube to ICU Flare Nut2015
Primary/Secondary Brake Tube to ICU Flare Nut2921
Caliper Guide Pin Mounting Bolts Rear2519
Brake Booster to Pedal Module Mounting Nuts3022Do not reuse fastener. If removed, a new fastener must be installed and tightened to specifications.
Brake Tube to Brake Hose Flare Nut1812
Primary/Secondary Brake Tube to Master Cylinder Flare Nut3627
Caliper Guide Pin Mounting Bolts Front3727
 

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Spark plugs are a scheduled maintenance item at 100,000 miles. Also, If you have a spark plug problem after 12 months 12,000 miles it is considered a wear and tear item and only SOME dealers will take care of you on good faith. Unless you have a specific issue I recommend sticking to the manufactures recommended interval. My wifes jeep patriot specifies every 30,000 miles but they are WAY easier to get to :) and when I change them I can tell a big difference in performance.

Anyways - Good luck to you DIYs


Mileage or time passed (whichever comes first)20,00030,00040,00050,00060,00070,00080,00090,000100,000110,000120,000130,000140,000150,000
Or Years:23456789101112131415
Or Kilometers:32,00048,00064,00080,00096,000112,000128,000144,000160,000176,000192,000208,000224,000240,000
Additional Inspections
Inspect the CV joints.X X X X X X X
Inspect front suspension, boot seals, tie rod ends, and replace if necessary.X X X X X X X
Inspect the brake linings, parking brake function.X X X X X X X
Inspect front accessory drive belt, tensioner, idler pulley, and replace if necessary X
Additional Maintenance
Replace engine air cleaner filter. X X X X X
Replace air conditioning/cabin air filter.X X X X X X X
Replace spark plugs. ** X
Flush and replace the engine coolant at 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km) whichever comes first. X X
Inspect and replace PCV valve if necessary. X
 

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Just a note when gapping the plugs (or checking gap). Most if not all modern engines come with Iridium tipped plugs. From a mechanics point of view and experience, I eye ball the plugs and don't gap them because gapping can cause the Iridium tip to come off. If I suspect the plug has been dropped or damaged, I dont use it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Just a note when gapping the plugs (or checking gap). Most if not all modern engines come with Iridium tipped plugs. From a mechanics point of view and experience, I eye ball the plugs and don't gap them because gapping can cause the Iridium tip to come off. If I suspect the plug has been dropped or damaged, I dont use it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Yeah, I get oem plugs for the Jeep Patriot at advanced auto for a buck n half and they come pre-gapped but yeah I still check them carefully but with a feeler gauge. I don't bother with the coin type or the type shown above anymore.
 

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