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Discussion Starter #1
41k miles on my 2018 Touring L Plus. Recently I've had a major electrical issue happen. It seems like all of the systems just go haywire. Symptoms are as follows:

  • The wipers come on, even though they aren't turn on
  • Loss of power steering
  • Transmission becomes unresponsive (cannot shift, unresponsive to throttle)
  • Car will not shut off (sometimes)
  • Screen goes blank
  • Lots of error messages
The vehicle is basically non-functional in this condition.

I took it to the dealer and they told me that it was a bad ground, and that they fixed it. Dealer said there was a lot of low voltage codes. As you can guess, it is not fixed. It will start up and drive fine one day, then when I start it the next day everything goes haywire again.

Here's a video of the dash when I start it up and the electrical problems persist: Dash Video

It seems logical to me that there's something wholesale wrong with the electrical system voltage, so a battery or alternator comes to mind, but I really have no idea where to start. If I take it back to the dealer, it likely won't exhibit the problem and it'll just be stuck there for who knows how long.

Has anyone experienced this before? Any help would be much appreciated, as I can't even trust this van to go up to the corner grocery store at the moment.

EDIT: Sounds a lot like this thread: Not sure what is going on
 

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Without being able to look at the van or hook up scan tool, best guess is that it sounds like the CAN bus is getting shorted to ground and/or a bad ground. Something a dealer will need to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Without being able to look at the van or hook up scan tool, best guess is that it sounds like the CAN bus is getting shorted to ground and/or a bad ground. Something a dealer will need to look at.
I was able to read the codes, here they are. Definitely seems like a CAN bus issue, as nothing is communicating properly when the codes are being thrown.

U0101 - Lost Communication with TCM
U0100 - Lost Communication with ECM/PCM
U0121 - Lost Communication with Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module
U0131 - Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module
U0212 - Lost Communication with Steering Column Control Module
U0140 - Lost Communication with Body Control Module
U0401 - Invalid Data Received From ECM/PCM
U110C - Lost Fuel Level
U110E - Lost Ambient Temperature
U1110 - Lost Vehicle Speed
U1120 - Lost Wheel Distance
U11BC - Lost Brake Switch
 

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certainly sounds like a bad ground. There may be multiple grounds servicing different components. Is it worse when the humidity is high? Curious if you have freeze frame data? I’ve not had any problems with our Pachy so I haven’t ever interrogated it. What is the battery voltage when the error occurs? A bad battery can cause this too. I’ve had a bad battery test well because by the time you get to the testing site the charging system tops it off and it doesn’t fail. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
certainly sounds like a bad ground. There may be multiple grounds servicing different components. Is it worse when the humidity is high? Curious if you have freeze frame data? I’ve not had any problems with our Pachy so I haven’t ever interrogated it. What is the battery voltage when the error occurs? A bad battery can cause this too. I’ve had a bad battery test well because by the time you get to the testing site the charging system tops it off and it doesn’t fail. Good luck.
It does seem like it happened more when it was rainy/wet outside, but I can't be sure.

I didn't know about freeze frame data until you mentioned it, I'll have to look into that.

I just started leaving the HUD on the battery voltage, so I'll be able to see if it changes when the issues are happening. Voltage is around 14.5 when the car is running normally.
 

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I agree a dead / bad battery would cause this but it wouldn't start if it were the case it wouldn't have enough charge to start so that tells me there is a bad ground or short somewhere. I've had my battery go dead tested out good then year later had no problems but the battery popped the cell caps and tested bad and replaced under warranty 🤷‍♂️. Are you rural or live in town? My grandparents are plagued by electrical issues because of mice getting in engine bay and chewing on wires.
 

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I agree a dead / bad battery would cause this but it wouldn't start if it were the case it wouldn't have enough charge to start so that tells me there is a bad ground or short somewhere. I've had my battery go dead tested out good then year later had no problems but the battery popped the cell caps and tested bad and replaced under warranty 🤷‍♂️. Are you rural or live in town? My grandparents are plagued by electrical issues because of mice getting in engine bay and chewing on wires.
It always starts right up. I'm in the suburbs, but our neighborhood is more rural and we do have mice around.
 

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It always starts right up. I'm in the suburbs, but our neighborhood is more rural and we do have mice around.
my grandma would moth ball the **** out of her vehicles, garage, and house to keep the mice out. I couldn't stand it. Her car was so bad I couldn't ride in it. I found a mint spray on amazon for her and it actually works better than the moth balls.

those mice are ruthless because when they chew a wire up they always seem to do it in an area impossible to get to without disassembling allot of the engine.
 

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my grandma would moth ball the **** out of her vehicles, garage, and house to keep the mice out. I couldn't stand it. Her car was so bad I couldn't ride in it. I found a mint spray on amazon for her and it actually works better than the moth balls.

those mice are ruthless because when they chew a wire up they always seem to do it in an area impossible to get to without disassembling allot of the engine.
It always starts right up. I'm in the suburbs, but our neighborhood is more rural and we do have mice around.
Pro Tip: If you do end up using the mint spray a good way to apply long term is just use an old cut up tshirt or rag and apply the mint to it and place it in a safe spot in the engine bay and reapply as needed.
Credit goes to my grandma 👵🏻.
 

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It always starts right up. I'm in the suburbs, but our neighborhood is more rural and we do have mice around.
I've had two VW's where a battery with a single bad cell would start start the car up right away, but caused bizarre electrical problems. VW's are notorious for electrical glitches, so not sure it would apply to the Pacifica, but it's so easy to try a new battery there's little downside.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update on this: Our van has been at the dealer for 2 weeks now. They have replaced the gateway module, as apparently the tech was getting errors from it. They tell me now that it solved half of the problems, but there's still some issues, so they are checking the wiring.

Needless to say, this is really frustrating. The car is 3 years old, 41k miles (just out of warranty of course) and it's having these major electrical issues that render the vehicle un-drivable. @ChryslerCares is there anything you can do to help with this? I shouldn't have to be shelling out a bunch of cash right after the warranty expires. This doesn't exactly give me the warm and fuzzies about sticking with the Pacifica brand when we are ready to replace this one.
 

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Update on this: Our van has been at the dealer for 2 weeks now. They have replaced the gateway module, as apparently the tech was getting errors from it. They tell me now that it solved half of the problems, but there's still some issues, so they are checking the wiring.

Needless to say, this is really frustrating. The car is 3 years old, 41k miles (just out of warranty of course) and it's having these major electrical issues that render the vehicle un-drivable. @ChryslerCares is there anything you can do to help with this? I shouldn't have to be shelling out a bunch of cash right after the warranty expires. This doesn't exactly give me the warm and fuzzies about sticking with the Pacifica brand when we are ready to replace this one.
DetroitEE,
It would be best for us to get assigned to a case specialist for additional assistance. The specialist will review your case and work in tandem for a resolution. Please provide the requested information below privately:
VIN:

Vehicle Mileage:

Full Name:

Preferred phone number:

Earliest call time:

Latest call time:

Updates via email: Y/N [Email address]

Vehicle location: [Customer/Dealer/IRF]

Date and time of appointment: [Insert Date and Time]

Confirmed appointment with: [Dealer and Dealer Contact]

Lamar
ChryslerCares
 

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Discussion Starter #13
DetroitEE,
It would be best for us to get assigned to a case specialist for additional assistance. The specialist will review your case and work in tandem for a resolution. Please provide the requested information below privately:
VIN:

Vehicle Mileage:

Full Name:

Preferred phone number:

Earliest call time:

Latest call time:

Updates via email: Y/N [Email address]

Vehicle location: [Customer/Dealer/IRF]

Date and time of appointment: [Insert Date and Time]

Confirmed appointment with: [Dealer and Dealer Contact]

Lamar
ChryslerCares
Sent in a PM, thanks Lamar.
 
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