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Best bet would be to measure the voltage on that outlet when the car is shut off. You said the charging stops, but maybe instead of completely shutting off the outlet has a partial supply (which would stop the charging, but not the lower power draw.) There is a way to change an outlet from ignition only to battery, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.

My Garmin is always plugged into that outlet. It says "power removed" and shuts down when I turn off the ignition. It even remains off in remote start (it does work in ACC.)

If they really measured a power draw, something may be wrong with the circuit. That is a defect that needs to be fixed. Whatever controls power to that outlet is not properly shutting it off.
 

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What I don't understand in that is that I believed that if an outlet is off, it's off - meaning that if it's ignition-powered only, not battery powered, there wouldn't be any drain on it when the vehicle is off. Is that not the case?
there are several mentions and warnings about the power outlets in the owner's manual:
 

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there are several mentions and warnings about the power outlets in the owner's manual:
My interpretation of that warning was for outlets that were battery (always on.)

I still think that whatever is switching that outlet (mechanical relay or electronic) is not shutting down the outlet properly -- therefore the dealer detects power draw.

But beyond that, since he said the charger "shuts off" -- I have a hard time believing that is the only problem. And as others have posted, the car is always awake -- listening to WiFi for app commands, etc., key fob commands, and door handle detection, so maybe there is something there drawing more power than usual and/or the dealer needs to recheck the battery health.
 

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I just looked, stock Mopar 740 CCA. For reference, Exide at Home Depot has 940 CCA. If the battery really dies and sends electrical surges throwing multiple alerts, all the king's horses (CCAs) and all the king's men, won't restore your battery again.
I know this is an old post but I just wanted to report that I had exactly the same issue as II Kings. I have a 2017 Pacifica (will report the VIN later). After the 5th time my car died, I finally had the wherewithal to capture most of the excitement on video. I'll post the link in a separate post - site won't allow me to post a link in my first post (??).

Sometimes the problem would resolve itself on its own and I could restart the engine, sometimes not. I've had the car towed three times now (I think, lost track). Replaced the alternator the first time, did nothing the second time, checked for continuity/shorts in the entire electrical system the third time (nothing found). The fourth time, I left it in my driveway waiting for it to wake itself up so I could restart, but that never happened and the battery completely drained.

After this last episode, both batteries were finally replaced - should have done that a long time ago. It's been about 4-5 weeks, no issues. I'm monitoring the battery display every time I start the car and every time I shut it down. This may have already been discussed, but the ~14V that you see on the display while the engine is running is the voltage regulator setting while the alternator is running that ensures the battery is charged (14 >12.6V). When the auto-stop feature stops the car, or the car is off, you can see the actual battery voltage (when car is off, need to be in RUN position). In my case it varies between 12.1 and 12.7, depending on what is drawing power and probably on temperature. Anyway I'm more focused on monitoring this battery voltage than the 14V charging voltage while driving. Would have been nice to have known what the battery voltage looked like just prior to the car going haywire and shutting down, but I don't have the luxury of hindsight.

I also had the same range of emotions as II Kings. I even worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from (used) to take it back (at a loss) but never pulled the trigger. Wife is still not sold, so I'm the primary driver for a while.

Thanks for the previous posts and information, very helpful in diagnosing my issues.
 

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I know this is an old post but I just wanted to report that I had exactly the same issue as II Kings. I have a 2017 Pacifica (will report the VIN later). After the 5th time my car died, I finally had the wherewithal to capture most of the excitement on video. I'll post the link in a separate post - site won't allow me to post a link in my first post (??).

Sometimes the problem would resolve itself on its own and I could restart the engine, sometimes not. I've had the car towed three times now (I think, lost track). Replaced the alternator the first time, did nothing the second time, checked for continuity/shorts in the entire electrical system the third time (nothing found). The fourth time, I left it in my driveway waiting for it to wake itself up so I could restart, but that never happened and the battery completely drained.

After this last episode, both batteries were finally replaced - should have done that a long time ago. It's been about 4-5 weeks, no issues. I'm monitoring the battery display every time I start the car and every time I shut it down. This may have already been discussed, but the ~14V that you see on the display while the engine is running is the voltage regulator setting while the alternator is running that ensures the battery is charged (14 >12.6V). When the auto-stop feature stops the car, or the car is off, you can see the actual battery voltage (when car is off, need to be in RUN position). In my case it varies between 12.1 and 12.7, depending on what is drawing power and probably on temperature. Anyway I'm more focused on monitoring this battery voltage than the 14V charging voltage while driving. Would have been nice to have known what the battery voltage looked like just prior to the car going haywire and shutting down, but I don't have the luxury of hindsight.

I also had the same range of emotions as II Kings. I even worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from (used) to take it back (at a loss) but never pulled the trigger. Wife is still not sold, so I'm the primary driver for a while.

Thanks for the previous posts and information, very helpful in diagnosing my issues.
Here's the link to the video:

2017 Pacifica Electrical Issues
 

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I started another thread on this, but check that your fuses are seated. I have a '19 wrangler, and from reading the forums there I knew to seat my fuses after taking delivery. Well, took delivery of a '20 Pacifica Limited a week ago and 90% of the fuses needed to be pushed down and into position (same fuse block). Now, this won't solve all every issue, but its a quick thing to check that only takes a minute, and loose fuses "could" cause all kinds of weird electrical issues ;)
 

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Same issue on 2018 with 22k miles. All recalls performed. Happened last week when my wife backed the car out of our driveway ONTO THE STREET. Engine was running but when she shifted to Drive the parking brake would come on. Local dealer had it all day and ran diagnostics. Claimed it was a loose ABS connection and that it was fixed. Happened again today dropping off our son at preschool. Tried to get out of the parking spot but same Shifter Service message. THIS IS A SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE and we are pissed. We had a battery replaced last month because we were alerted the start/stop was broken. I've seen posts here where people have had batteries replaced because of the shifter service message but our dealer didn't replace a battery again. Hoping to find more guidance here. This is twice this has happened and we are now studying up on Washington State lemon law since my wife doesn't want to drive the van anymore.
 
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