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After reading this thread I decided to check the capabilities of Pac's USB ports. None of them can support the high voltage fast charge protocols, which limits their use with the modern phones.
To determine the maximum load I slowly increased the current until the protection circuit would shut the port down. When it happened I reduced the load by 0.1A and tested again.



Uconnect (Car Play/Android Auto) port 2.6A




Uconnect Theater port 2.75A




Bottom port 0.7A




Seatback port 2.75A




3rd row port 2.75A



All ports turned out to have similar capabilities with the notable exception of the bottom port.

A good USB charger should output 5.0V when idle and gradually raise the voltage with the load to compensate for losses in the connecting cable. Samsung chargers support up to 2.2A, the output voltage at the maximum load is 5.4V. Pacifica's USB ports are not that smart, their output starts with 5.0-5.1V and drops as the load increases beyond 1A. Most of the time this is acceptable with a short quality connecting cable, but some high current devices might have issues.
If you do a lot of USB charging (and who doesn't) an USB tester and electronic load (or even one of them) can help you test cables, battery capacity and solve all charging issues.
 

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All ports turned out to have similar capabilities with the notable exception of the bottom port.

A good USB charger should output 5.0V when idle and gradually raise the voltage with the load to compensate for losses in the connecting cable. Samsung chargers support up to 2.2A, the output voltage at the maximum load is 5.4V. Pacifica's USB ports are not that smart, their output starts with 5.0-5.1V and drops as the load increases beyond 1A. Most of the time this is acceptable with a short quality connecting cable, but some high current devices might have issues.
If you do a lot of USB charging (and who doesn't) an USB tester and electronic load (or even one of them) can help you test cables, battery capacity and solve all charging issues.
Nice work & interesting data, thanks for your work.
 
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2020 Gas Pacifica Touring L+; (prev 2017 Touring L+)
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Well, that valids my observation. I had shelved questioning the dealer about the front power port in light of the national shutdown.

In our 2017 Touring L+, my wife usually charged her Galaxy S8 from the media port (denying access) while I used the floor port for my S7. When I got my Galaxy Note 10, I noticed that it actually LOST charge when plugged in (and when I put the S8 onto it, it was also in a negative power flow state.) So we started using the USB ports behind our seats for one phone (hint -- I used a right angle USB adapter to reduce the chance of someone damaging it going in or out of the seat) and the media socket (denying access) for the other. I did look up the nominal power of the outlet, and page 214 of the 2017 Users guide (5th edition) and it was 2.5 amp at 5 Volts. Since I was almost at the end of the lease, and not likely to service the van, I pushed off doing anything.

Well, guess what -- when I got my 2020 on 2/29, I found the same situation. Looked up the Owner's Manual (Page 118) and again the port is supposed to be 2.5 amp at 5 volts, but as @stop-eject proved, the output is a pitiful fraction of an amp. If, despite the manual's claim, that is the intended power, I don't understand it. Virtually no modern device could charge in a meaningful way -- personally I'm surprised my S7 was content to (slowly) charge from it. The S8 & S10 say something like "check charging cable" and proceed to drain. I don't demand fast charging levels, but give us the labeled power.

And now that Android Auto is present in the van, we don't want to plug in either phone to the media jack (although I have a power only USB adapter for use in public places to prevent juice jacking.)

@ChryslerCares -- can you please get someone to look at this discrepancy. I'll bring it into my dealer once they reopen and I'm ready for the first oil change and raise the issue. I think it goes beyond a typo. Draping the wire from in back of me is annoying. And it would seem this is a multi MY issue. (I don't know why the 2017 image repeats...)

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Occasionally I have found that hard rebooting the uconnect system has resulted in my usb charging properly again as sometimes it's a slow charge. I'll do this about three to four times a month due to a slow charge using either for upfront.
 

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One easy workaround is to use a charging adapter for the 12v plug. They are available with both standard and type-C usb ports.
 

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I suspect the bottom port used in the test above needs to be replaced. These seem to fail quite often. Multiple people on here including myself needed to have it replaced.

One easy workaround is to use a charging adapter for the 12v plug. They are available with both standard and type-C usb ports.
I agree with this. The only downside is that the 12V port is switched with the ignition. It was a big letdown to find out that none of the USB ports have Quick Charge.

I was at Walmart a while back and none of the plug-in chargers I looked at had Quick Charge. It seems that most people simply equate greater amperage output to faster charging and are completely unaware of Quick Charge. Quick Charge is a must for most newer Android phones. It's not like this is cutting edge tech either. Quick Charge 3.0 has been around for nearly 5 years.
 

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Occasionally I have found that hard rebooting the uconnect system has resulted in my usb charging properly again as sometimes it's a slow charge. I'll do this about three to four times a month due to a slow charge using either for upfront.
How do you initiate a hard reboot? I assume that, unlike the soft reboot, it wipes out radio presets and phone pairings. But in reality that is not an acceptable solution to do weekly. That is a total design failure. And in any case, I am not sure why it would affect a simple power plug (but then everything talks to everything else in modern vehicles....)
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One easy workaround is to use a charging adapter for the 12v plug. They are available with both standard and type-C usb ports.
Thought about it -- I would have to get an outlet multiplier because I use a Garmin that is plugged into that socket, and its charging cord is also the traffic radio antenna so I can't replace it with a straight usb cable.
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Thanks, @freddief73 for the observation about quick charge. While nice, I am not too concerned about rapid charging, but more that the phone doesn't lose ground while driving. But more importantly, you imply that a significant number of these ports are defective. And that is seriously bad news.
 

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I was at Walmart a while back and none of the plug-in chargers I looked at had Quick Charge. It seems that most people simply equate greater amperage output to faster charging and are completely unaware of Quick Charge. Quick Charge is a must for most newer Android phones. It's not like this is cutting edge tech either. Quick Charge 3.0 has been around for nearly 5 years.
I purchased a 12v adapter with Type-C connector and Quick Charge through Amazon. It has worked as advertised.

You are correct that rapid charging was introduced over 5 years ago. However there was scant adoption until Apple and Google and some others in the consortium agreed to make the Type-C plug the standard. It certainly was not something that Chrysler would have put in vehicles designed in 2016. I believe the 2021 Pacifica does have some Type-C connectors.
 

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I misspoke. Hard rebooting to me is forcing it to reboot. Soft reboot is turning your car off and on. Hard reset is what you described.

For a manual reboot, hold the volume and browse/enter button on at the same time (center of each knob). Hold until uconnect restarts.
 

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I misspoke. Hard rebooting to me is forcing it to reboot. Soft reboot is turning your car off and on. Hard reset is what you described.

For a manual reboot, hold the volume and browse/enter button on at the same time (center of each knob). Hold until uconnect restarts.
FYI, that does not seem to work on 2020 Pacificas with the TL+ radio.
 
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