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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone. My Pac came with the alpine 13 speaker kit, which is surprisingly ok. The plan to start is to wedge a ported 10" subwoofer into the factory spare tire area, since I received no spare anyway. Already making good progress. I spec'd the enclosure for the sub, tuned the port appropriately and fully expect it to knock people's socks off when I want it to, though it will spend most of its time just whispering low frequencies.

I pulled the panel and saw plenty of room to glass something in but it's too late in the year (too cold) for fiberglass so I chose another route in the meantime. I found that the bottom of a 55 gallon drum fits perfectly in the compartment. I'm using that as a base, building a baffle to insert into it, reinforcing the rear, deadening the sides, and bracing it considerably. It will be mounted vertically by a 2x10 running behind the pinch welds, which will require some drilling of the seems though far less than I had planned when I thought I could fit two in there!

Issues to be ironed out: Defeat ANC (does anyone have any good info on this; a diagram would be especially helpful), plumb into the front door speakers (an amp diagram would again be tremendously helpful), wire everything up. Profit.

Eventually I'll amplify the dash speakers and front door speakers, possibly replacing those as well. But first I have to finish the enclosure and wire it up. It would be nice to wire in a decent LOC for the fronts as well so I have that ready to go when the time comes to upgrade the fronts.

Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The baffles consist of two layers of laminated 3/4" mdf. The sub mounts through the front piece and to the rear. I've since routed a small lip around the woofer cavity, allowing a little space for some vinyl to get glued/stapled in the future. The port exit is rounded over with my big ass 3/4" bit and feeds directly to the 18" port. At about 1.25ft^3 net, after stuffing, this little guy puts the hurt on everything but fairly extreme builds that would require extensive cargo space intrusion - this should slot away without effecting cargo space at all. Pictured is a model of this enclosure vs. two of the same tens in a sealed enclosure, both with 12db/octave cabin gain starting around 50hz. You can see the ported configuration provides enough additional output from 20-70hz to mimic 2-4x the power being supplied to the pair. Should kick butt.
 

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Looks good. Very large baffle on that sub. Is it a W7? I don't see manufacturer tags anywhere, that's why I'm not sure.
 

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Thanks. Yes, I made the baffle nice and thick since it's so large. It will be braced just outside the woofer mounting points with five 2" dowels. Should be plenty rigid front-to-back but deadening the barel/basin will be a challeng. It might get some fiberglass to reinforce it if cld won't do the trick. I had actually planned on two ported but couldn't justify beating down the pinch welds and fiberglassing a brand new car, especially with temps in the 50s now - it would take forever to cure.

And it's a Dayton Audio Ultimax 10 (UM10-22). It models nicely in small enclosures. Only needs 0.5cuft sealed! I could get by with 0.9cuft for the ported enclosure but I'm trying to flatten it out a bit and get the tuning frequency lower.
Dayton UM10-22
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Trimmed the baffle so it will (barely) stuff itself inside the basin. Test fitted the baffle and the enclosure today. Built the legs/braces and a fixed the port. It all looks a bit mad but it should work gang busters when I’m done. Rear seats move unobstructed at present, and I should be able to scoot it in nearly a full other inch.
 

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Looks very good!! Now, how does it sound? :)
Should sound amazing! The port tuning will run low so it should play nice and flat with a little bump in the 20-40 range. I have to wire up the amp this weekend. Should be finished with the majority of construction today though. I'll play it off some bookshelf speakers and a little plate amp I have to see what it'll do with 25 watts - though it will see 600+ RMS in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Rainy day yesterday so I wrapped the port in batting and epoxied it in place. Built the mounting bracket in the vehicle as well. It was a TIGHT fit and I ended up making the upper bracket too large. That meant running a depth cut with a circular saw INSIDE the van last night. Sawdust for days, man. Need to detail the sucker when I'm done and I haven't even broken 150 miles yet!
 

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I give you the world’s ugliest subwoofer enclosure! Need to trim it, bondo and route the corners. Then build a trim panel for it, fiberglass that to the enclosure and wrap it in vinyl. So much work. Probably fifteen hours in the thing by now, working in the evenings.

Finished the mount in the van today. Finished the bracing, glued and screwed it in place, ran a metric ton of cld around the basin, stuffed it with a little over a pound of polyfill. Calculated volume at 1.2 cuft net presently. Hoping to lower the fb with stuffing to resemble a 1.4-1.5 cuft enclosure.

Mounting and testing this afternoon with a little 25 watt plate amp I have. It’ll be some time before I can wire it up properly, though I may get lucky and get some time for that Saturday. AudioControl DQ61 comes in tomorrow. Probably wire everything up for the four channel at once so I can just plug and play when I chose drivers for the front stage.

So tired.
 

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Mine didn't come with a spare and they're out of stock on the inflate-a-spare everywhere. I think they stopped making them altogether. I found one on ebay for $400 and I'll probably bite that bullet and run it in the front stow-and-go for road trips.
 

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Mine didn't come with a spare and they're out of stock on the inflate-a-spare everywhere. I think they stopped making them altogether. I found one on ebay for $400 and I'll probably bite that bullet and run it in the front stow-and-go for road trips.
You can buy it right now.

https://parts.chryslerjeepdodgecityofmckinney.com/p/Chrysler_2018_Pacifica/This-kit-has-all-the-right-tools-to-make-installing-a-spare-tire-easy-and-convenient-Includes-tire--wheel-assembly--jack--jack-tool--and-mounting-hard/68846945/82214534AB.html
 

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Wired up the DQ-61 and ran the majority of my cables over the weekend. Finally got it fired up early this morning after a 6am trip to Home Depot for a blade fuse. With some rough gain adjustments, this thing is bumpin! Need to tune down a big peak at 50 hz and find a happy crossover frequency this afternoon. Proper gain setting will take some time but for the moment, I find myself turning it WAY down for regular music listening. Not getting too fancy with the adjustments until the four channel and components are installed.

The enclosure will be coming back out to get finished and wrapped in textured vinyl. This is how it looks at the moment - in all its loud, low, ugly glory.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The amplifier may get relocated to between the middle stow-and-go seats, under the floor. There's not enough room to stash it completely under the seat so it protrudes slightly. That may be an issue when I add an additional amplifier for the front speakers, as it would have to go on the passenger side.

Pictured as well is the beautiful grommet that Chrysler gave us to run cables through! So pleased with how (relatively) easy it was to get two 4 gauge cables into the passenger compartment. And yes, the cables are getting secured and loomed under the hood shortly.
 

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I just wanted to say Thank you to VirginiaDoug for his stereo upgrade posts, they have helped me immensely while I install a subwoofer into my wife 2017 Limited.
We have the Harmon Kardon audio system, so far the wiring schematic you posted for the Alpine audio system seems to be the same for our van.

I'm betting the Alpine amp you are using doesn't require a remote turn on, do you or anyone else know where I can find an ignition live power source?
The older Alpine MRP-M500 amp I am using needs a remote trigger.
I do have a spare Audio Control ACM-1.300 amp I may use, it has their GTO sense so may not need a remote.
 

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You can kind of cheat with the remote trigger wire. (It's blue in after market headunits, by the way).

The cheat is you can attach it to virtually ANY wire inside of the van. They don't have power until the van has been unlocked or a key is present. So, you'll be good to go. Depending on where you're mounting the amp, you could jump it off anything, including the vacuum.
 
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