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MS-6395 is an internal FCA specification. It is not different or better than other manufacturers' internal specifications. Just go with any synthetic SAE 0W-20 oil that meets the API SERVICE SN or SP standard. (The previous SM standard is not recommended for engines built after 2010.) This API (American Petroleum Institute) emblem really all you need to check.

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amen to this! Glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t jump on the “manufacturer’s recommended standards“ crap. oil is oil, these aren’t race cars. Change them at the required intervals and it will be alright.
 

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amen to this! Glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t jump on the “manufacturer’s recommended standards“ crap. oil is oil, these aren’t race cars. Change them at the required intervals and it will be alright.
I don't think Waldo is saying 'oil is oil'. I do agree any synthetic meeting SN standards will be okay - using a non-synthetic oil is unwise.
 

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I don't think Waldo is saying 'oil is oil'. I do agree any synthetic meeting SN standards will be okay - using a non-synthetic oil is unwise.
0w20 only comes in synthetic blend or full synthetic. While I always use full synthetic if you go to a jiffy lube you’re getting the bulk blend unless you pay more which I am sure many don’t do and they are fine. if I had to use a blend I would probably change the oil at 5k but many just follow the maintenance minder.

I had 8300 miles with 17% oil life left according to the maintenance minder. That’s about the longest stretch I’ve ever gone. I would have went the full 10k but I am going on a road trip. This one is a lease for me so I really don’t care. The cars I own now I change every 6k and use factory OEM oil filters and parts.

On my golf cart I have been running Supertech filters because the Kawasaki filters are $15 and they are a pain to source. Supertech is $2.97. I bought about 6 of them to stock pile and I change the oil / filter once a year since it’s seasonal use. Zero problems.
 

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Here you go !
No Fram filters for me....
I have seen many ad's like this in the past. As a avid car buff I have yet you meet anyone who has had an engine fail do to a faulty oil filter. Lost drain plugs that ran the engine dry, yes. Incorrect oil filter, yes. Lack of regular oil changes, yes although I once ran my 1963 Buick LeSabre 10,000 miles between oil changes. That oil was like tar. I'm just saying.
 

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Regarding Fram, number of pleats inside, etc:
Is a chair with six legs better than a chair with four legs?
 

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If Fram filters have less filter media to capture the metal and particles from the oil circulating thru the engine, then they are an inferior filter.....imo
I would rather blow my nose with a full Kleenex than half of one.
Thats my 2 cents worth and Im sticking with it !
 

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If Fram filters have less filter media to capture the metal and particles from the oil circulating thru the engine, then they are an inferior filter.....imo
I would rather blow my nose with a full Kleenex than half of one.
Thats my 2 cents worth and Im sticking with it !
"metal and particles"? I thought that's what the magnetic drain plug was for? Doesn't the oil pick up have a screen in it? A very fine screen if I recall. The screw on oil filter is not the only oil filter, it's a part of a larger filtering system.
On that note, I believe an engine should be operated at maximum temperature for at least 8 minutes to heat up the oil and get rid of that nasty moisture. Did you ever purchase an old car from an old lady who only drove it to church on Sunday? I did. I was the worst 1981 Olds 98 Brougham. First time on the highway belts broke, radiator hose blew (lower), exhaust system ruptured (rusted inside out), caliper seized. I won't even get into that god awful piston slap that occurs when the piston finally get to extend it's full travel and bashes the unworn top of the cylinder wall.
CARS ARE FUN...UNTIL THEY ARE NOT.
 

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Metal and fine particles are what a screw on oil filter is supposed to catch, If the oil pick up screen collected all the metal in its screen, it would soon clog up and the engine would see its final day...

If the screw on filter is not the only filter besides the oil pickup screen, is there a secret filter you know about? Please tell us about it.o_O
 

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"metal and particles"? I thought that's what the magnetic drain plug was for? Doesn't the oil pick up have a screen in it? A very fine screen if I recall. The screw on oil filter is not the only oil filter, it's a part of a larger filtering system.
On that note, I believe an engine should be operated at maximum temperature for at least 8 minutes to heat up the oil and get rid of that nasty moisture. Did you ever purchase an old car from an old lady who only drove it to church on Sunday? I did. I was the worst 1981 Olds 98 Brougham. First time on the highway belts broke, radiator hose blew (lower), exhaust system ruptured (rusted inside out), caliper seized. I won't even get into that god awful piston slap that occurs when the piston finally get to extend it's full travel and bashes the unworn top of the cylinder wall.
CARS ARE FUN...UNTIL THEY ARE NOT.
Magnets only work on Iron/steel - not babbit metal of bearings, aluminum, etc.
What does the story of the little ole lady have to do with crummy Fram filters?
 

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If the Pacifica had an engine option where the block had two oil filters instead of one, would you buy that one? How much extra would you pay?
 

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Magnets only work on Iron/steel - not babbit metal of bearings, aluminum, etc.
What does the story of the little ole lady have to do with crummy Fram filters?
She used FRAM filters.
 

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Magnets only work on Iron/steel - not babbit metal of bearings, aluminum, etc.
What does the story of the little ole lady have to do with crummy Fram filters?
I'd care to guess that you get more contaminants into the engine from the air filter then you do from a "faulty" oil filter. Unless it was a quality FRAM air filter.
 

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It’s amazing how a question about RAMPS for an oil change gets into a debate about oil and oil filters.

I went to Costco today to pick up some mobile 1 oil 0w20 for my Acura MDX because it’s on sale. $28 for 6 quarts (Normally $38 / which is expensive) but I walked out with the Kirkland Signature 0w20 Full Synthetic - 10 quarts for $25. I just couldn’t pass up $2.50 a quart for full synthetic. I still have some mixed feelings about it but I remind myself I was using SuperTech for my former 04 Odyssey which went 240k miles. The engine was still great but the transmission started to slip and the power doors started acting all wonky so it was time to let that one go.

I have Kirkland 0w20 in the Pacifica now. Getting ready for a nice road trip.
 

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It’s amazing how a question about RAMPS for an oil change gets into a debate about oil and oil filters.

I went to Costco today to pick up some mobile 1 oil 0w20 for my Acura MDX because it’s on sale. $28 for 6 quarts (Normally $38 / which is expensive) but I walked out with the Kirkland Signature 0w20 Full Synthetic - 10 quarts for $25. I just couldn’t pass up $2.50 a quart for full synthetic. I still have some mixed feelings about it but I remind myself I was using SuperTech for my former 04 Odyssey which went 240k miles. The engine was still great but the transmission started to slip and the power doors started acting all wonky so it was time to let that one go.

I have Kirkland 0w20 in the Pacifica now. Getting ready for a nice road trip.
Warren Oil Company is speculated to be the manufacturer behind Walmart’s Super Tech and Amazon’s AmazonBasics motor oils, but we can confirm it supplies the Kirkland variety.

Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil displays its maker in fine print on the back of the jug: “Manufactured by Warren Distribution, Inc.”

Warren, which claims to be one of North America’s largest independent lubricant manufacturers, markets its products around the world under several brands, such as MAG 1, and under private labels as well.
 

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Here's what's on Costco website regarding their Kirkland 0W-20 synthetic page:

Applications
For use in gasoline, ex-fuel or gasoline-electric hybrid vehicles requiring SAE 0W-20 API SN PLUS, SN, SL and ILSAC GF-5, GF-4 or previous standards. Approved for use in all GM gasoline engines requiring dexos1™ Gen 2 0W-20.
 

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It’s amazing how a question about RAMPS for an oil change gets into a debate about oil and oil filters.
...........................................................
That is another thread - 2020 Oil Change - Ramps?
This one IS about oil and oil filters....
 

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I know some people don't care for Fram filters, but I've been using Fram Ultra filters in my wife's vans (2016 Chrysler T&C and now 2020 Chrysler Pacifica) for several years and have never had any issues with them. I have also compared them to the Mopar and Wix XP filters and the Fram Ultra's appear to be as good if not better than the Mopar and the Wix XP. I probably wouldn't use a cheaper Fram filter either, but for an application like the Pacifica I wouldn't hesitate to use the Fram Ultra.
 

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According to what I've read (don't remember where), the contaminant size that causes the most engine wear is in the 5- 7 micron range, I'm not sure it matters a great deal which filter you use, since they all quote their efficiency at 25-30 microns.
 
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