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Today I had the front windows on my Pac tinted. I went with CIR and stayed legal in TX with 30 % VLT. The difference in the temperature inside the vehicle on my drive home was so considerable that I’m considering taking it back to have the windshield done as well. The shop is recommending 80%. I’m looking for input from anyone that might have had an 80% ceramic film installed and if you thought it was worth it.

Attached is a shot of my baby girl. I have the coolest minivan on the block. :smile2:
 

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Very nice. When you say CIR, do you mean you put on Suntek CIR film? That's that brand's top of the line. And yes, do the entire front windshield. I went with 70% and it is totally good (and clear) to me. So going 80% is no problem at all.
 

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Very nice. When you say CIR, do you mean you put on Suntek CIR film? That's that brand's top of the line. And yes, do the entire front windshield. I went with 70% and it is totally good (and clear) to me. So going 80% is no problem at all.
Thank you! Yes, Suntek. That is good to know! With a black/black vehicle in Texas, I can use all th help I can get. Thanks for the recommendation.
 

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How easily does tint scratch?

I have never had after market tinting done. I am concerned that the tint will look scratched and not keep looking nice with cleaning and normal use, i.e. windows raised and lowered. What could I expect as far as longevity if I decide to get the Pacifica's windows tinted?
 

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I have never had after market tinting done. I am concerned that the tint will look scratched and not keep looking nice with cleaning and normal use, i.e. windows raised and lowered. What could I expect as far as longevity if I decide to get the Pacifica's windows tinted?
if you get good (read: ceramic) film, practically all of these good brands/films have lifetime warranties against bubbling, fading, etc. if you get cheap metallic or dye film, you'll regret it in a few years. my subaru from 2001 had cheap dye tint used and we just peeled it all off a few weeks ago and it was a nightmare to get off. ceramic film wont do this. go with 3M, llumar, rayno, suntek and use their ceramic film. if someone says "i'll tint your whole car for $150", run fast.

also, realize that these good films offer excellent UV protection (over 99%) and IR rejection (the "feel" of the heat coming through your windows). they make an amazing difference. your factory privacy tints dont offer these properties. they are only a privacy (darkening) addition.

yelp "5 star" tint shops in your area. they will explain everything and you won't regret getting it done.
 

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Suntek

That was one of my main questions about tint.
Couple days after I posted this (http://www.pacificaforums.com/forum/385-appearance-body/35162-new-tinting-need-advice-lots-questions.html) I got one of my other cars fully tinted with Suntek, CXP 18 all around, CXP 5 on the sunroof, and CIR 70 on the windshield.

It is hard to tell if it was worth for me, since I got everything tinted at one time. I do notice a difference. When I park my car out under the sun all day (even with a sunshade) it will still get hot, but will get cooler faster after you start driving with the windows open or use the A/C.

Do you notice the hazing on your Suntek windows?
I notice hazing when the sun hits my windows at a certain angle, during a certain time of day, like both morning and afternoon rush hour traffic times :|
Most low/mid grade ceramics will have this hazing, but tint forums say Suntek is the worst at it (it's possibly they are being bias against their competing products). Only the high-end top-tier stuff will be clear, like Photosync, 3M Crystalline, Huper Optik, Pinnacle 1's etc. @lightrules, is your Rayno AIR7090 giving you low angel haze?

Don't get windshield tint for UV blocking purposes. Most modern cars will already have an OEM windshield with 97%+ UV Rejection. I even had a couple tint meters set under my Pacifica's windshield and they don't even pick up or read anything.

With Suntek CIR 70, it's not bad during the night. For daytime, it helps a little bit with glare but I still need to wear my sunglasses (my eyes are more sensitive to bright light than the average person tho). I also heard that if you wear polarized sunglasses, you will see some kind of rainbow affect.

Another thing to note is that our OEM Windshield already has 77% VLT, so when you put CIR 80 on it, it will roughly have a total of 60% VLT, which isn't that bad.
I personally wouldn't go CIR 70 on the Pacifica, well I just think that would be too dark and the cops will notice.

You already did tint the worse heat and UV rejecting windows on your Pacifica. The front windows only block 65% UV, which is equivalent to like SPF 3.

With all that said, if you don't mind (or don't notice) the low angel haze on your front windows then it should be worth it for you, especially since you live in TX. As for me, having CIR on my other cars is fine, but I want my Pacifica to have perfect clarity. So I'm hoping to get a good deal on 3M Crystalline or similar, but my 3M CR quotes still has been $300+ for just the windshield :surprise: What are you getting for your CIR?

Oh one more thing, make sure your lifetime warranty covers scratches, Suntek is known to scratch easier than other films. I have some but they are very minor that no one else but me and the installer would notice. I opted not to have my installer re-tint it, in hopes they give me a bigger discount when I bring in my wife's car or our Pacifica 0:)
 
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@coppee, you have been doing your research! :)

i was told by several people in the industry that factory tints were ONLY privacy without UV protection. maybe they are wrong then. still glad to get the tints though.
 

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I wouldn't tint the windshield. The optics will take a hit. @coppee mentioned hazing and rainbow effects. They are fine for the side windows, but not safe for the windshield. Pac windshield has no tinted top band. I searched and coudn't find a gradient tape that could be applied there.
Any opinion on Johnson window films? AUTOMOTIVE | Johnson Window Films
I'm going to do the front windows and compare the heat penetration with the factory tint.
 

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@coppee, you have been doing your research! :)

i was told by several people in the industry that factory tints were ONLY privacy without UV protection. maybe they are wrong then. still glad to get the tints though.
Only the windshield has almost full UV protection.

The front windows has the worst protection UV protection, so definitely get that tinted. Here's a pic, but I'd say the margin of accuracy of that meter is 1%-2%


The privacy rear windows offer some, I forgot what the UV meter read but it is still worth putting tint to protect your kids on moderate trips. I want to say it's maybe 90% UV rejection.

The sunroof also has pretty good UV protection, barely read by the meter.

I tried to ask ChryslerCares for a spec sheet like this but they couldn't help me. This is for a Toy Highlander
 

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I have never had after market tinting done. I am concerned that the tint will look scratched and not keep looking nice with cleaning and normal use, i.e. windows raised and lowered. What could I expect as far as longevity if I decide to get the Pacifica's windows tinted?
Just to add on to what Lightrules said, yeah just make sure they come with a lifetime warranty. Installers don't mention about "scratches" but make sure you ask them if scratches are covered. It would be hard to scratch unless you had like sand paper or a screwdriver than ran across it. But during the tint install process, they use razors to cut the film so inspect their jobs. My Suntek tint has some light scratches, my installer offered to redo it but it was barely noticeable that I didn't think it was necessary.

I wouldn't tint the windshield. The optics will take a hit. @coppee mentioned hazing and rainbow effects. They are fine for the side windows, but not safe for the windshield. Pac windshield has no tinted top band. I searched and coudn't find a gradient tape that could be applied there.
Any opinion on Johnson window films? AUTOMOTIVE | Johnson Window Films
I'm going to do the front windows and compare the heat penetration with the factory tint.
The InsulatIR stuff looks to have great specs but I couldn't find much about them. If it's lifetime warranty, I'd say it's fine tho. I got offered InsulatIR 70 for the windshield $190, from the top of my head the specs were like 3M CR stuff.
 
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I wouldn't tint the windshield. The optics will take a hit. @coppee mentioned hazing and rainbow effects. They are fine for the side windows, but not safe for the windshield. Pac windshield has no tinted top band. I searched and coudn't find a gradient tape that could be applied there.
Any opinion on Johnson window films? AUTOMOTIVE | Johnson Window Films
I'm going to do the front windows and compare the heat penetration with the factory tint.
I'm really happy with the windshield tint. It is already 90 degrees today here in so-Cal and we have not even hit the summer heat yet. I can definitely feel the difference between my Pac and my Odyssey vis a vis the heat on the dash and front console. I am doing my Ody next week though probably, same set up.

I'll keep a look-out for the hazing/rainbow effect. I have not noticed anything to this point though.

As for Johnson, aren't they a big name company? I'd think they make some quality stuff.
 
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@coppee, you have been doing your research! :)
i was told by several people in the industry that factory tints were ONLY privacy without UV protection. maybe they are wrong then. still glad to get the tints though.
Just to add on to what I replied earlier, I was skeptical with what the tint shops tell me (if that's where you got your information from). I was able to get a hold of a UV meter, I can take pics if you want. The spec sheet of the OEM windows for the Toy Highlander that I included, I would think give a good ballpark range of what all modern SUVs/Trucks/Vans would have with their windows/privacy glass

Also I'm pretty sure you know this, but just in case. UV rejection is only 3% of TSER. Then 53% of the TSER equation is IR rejection and the other 44% is VLT. UV rejection is pretty much for skin and interior protection. But the added IRR and VLT, would still make it worth it for you for all the heat rejection, especially for your S Pac being Granite w/ black leather.

Buy hey, after you observe can you let me know if you see any low angle haze on your Rayno? I'm still observing the Suntek tint on my Mazda P5, maybe it takes weeks to fully cure? But if I still see some haze by the end of this week (this would be the 3rd week since installed) don't think I want to go with Suntek anymore. Will either go with 3M or Rayno. The best Rayno S5 deal is in Artesia. I'll be in OC/East LA area like 3x the next couple months (including this weekend).

By law I'm allowed 35 on the front windows and no tint allowed on the windshield. It's definitely on my list. Thanks for the research @coppee
You're welcome :D Did you see Lightrule's tint? He has 35 on the front and it blends nicely with his rears. He did do the windshield as well so that would darken the front windows a little bit.
 
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@coppee, i'll keep you posted on the haze, if i see it.

let's hook up when you are in the area. you got my # :)
 
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I got my front windows done with a 45% film. The difference in the heat from the sun is more than noticeable, I might even say dramatic.
Regarding the windshield tinting, the installers had a printout of this document posted in their office. IWFA Professional > Professional Resources > Visual Quality Standard
The very first paragraph says "Installed film on flat glass surfaces is not expected to have the same level of visual quality as glass." A curved windshield is even more challenging.
 

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Rayno Air 70%

@stop-eject, this is what I have on my windshield. So far, loving it.

https://www.raynofilm.com/architectural/air7090

"AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS
AIR7090 comes with the added feature that sets it apart from other Platinum series – Shrinking to fit curved glass.

As it is expertly designed for automotive glass, AIR7090 is perfect for those looking for a lighter film that is capable of protecting your valuable cars from nearly 99% of harmful UV rays and 90% of IR rays."
 

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I got my front windows done with a 45% film. The difference in the heat from the sun is more than noticeable, I might even say dramatic.
Regarding the windshield tinting, the installers had a printout of this document posted in their office. IWFA Professional > Professional Resources > Visual Quality Standard
The very first paragraph says "Installed film on flat glass surfaces is not expected to have the same level of visual quality as glass." A curved windshield is even more challenging.
Sweet, got any pics to share? I am still trying to decide between 35% - 50%. Not looking to match my rears.

Your link also helped me decide to wait on the curing, I do still see some haze on my windshield, it might be getting better.. but I'll wait a full 30 days
 

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much of this thread is zooming way over my head as i'm not familiar with the products and terminology. But seems like an appropriate thread to start out and ask about tinting vs sunshade? Sounds like some of these top of the line ceramic film tint do not just tint but also block UV rays and heat? Appears to be much more expensive vs a sunshade as well. Will these be more effective than a standard "heatshield" sunshade?

also do you guys know what % is the standard tint on the rear windows if i want to match the fronts? If there's intro thread with basics lemme know. thanks
 

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much of this thread is zooming way over my head as i'm not familiar with the products and terminology. But seems like an appropriate thread to start out and ask about tinting vs sunshade? Appears to be much more expensive vs a sunshade as well. Will these be more effective than a standard "heatshield" sunshade?
Is this sunshade for the windshield? If you're talking about when your car sits under the sun all day, sunshade will be the cheaper effective option. It will keep your dashboard cooler than tint can. A fully tinted car will help more with the ambient temperature of your cabin, but with the added cost. But if you're driving you can't have the sunshade on and this is where tint would help. If you're strapped on money, then sunshades would be good sufficient option. I actually use both sunshade and have my windshield tinted on my other car, the car still gets warm after hours under the sun but it will cool down faster with windows open and AC on low.

My wife actually bought some rear window sunshades for her Corolla last night. She doesn't think the sun glare gets blocked enough for our toddler boy's eyes with tint, which is her priority to block. So I'll have more experience with sunshade vs tint by next week

Sounds like some of these top of the line ceramic film tint do not just tint but also block UV rays and heat?
All types of tint will provide 99+% UV protection, unless it's some generic dye. The ceramic films will have the added heat blocking properties (Infared rejection). Carbon films will be a cheaper option with some IR properties. Ceramic > Carbon > Dye

also do you guys know what % is the standard tint on the rear windows if i want to match the fronts? If there's intro thread with basics lemme know. thanks
Here is a thread that discusses that:
http://www.pacificaforums.com/forum/193-2017-chrysler-pacifica-minivan-general-discussion/35450-what-percentage-tint-front-windows.html
Short answer is 20% VLT tint.
But it's best just to ask the installer and make it their responsibility to match it, so in case you're not happy with it, they can redo it for you with another tint percentage and/or brand. Most people here don't know what was used, just make sure it's not cheap dye (those will only last a couple years) and has a lifetime warranty.
Our rear side privacy glass windows have a VLT of 27-28%, but 20% works ok because the light coming from the windshield will make it appear brighter.
 
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