It’s hard to say exactly how the new software will work. But from what I read, Chrysler expects to determine if you have a faulty battery pack or not by merely monitoring a single charge/discharge cycle. Apparently after performing the diagnostic at the dealer they will “ok” the van to be used as intended with overnight charging and parking in a garage.
Z11 RECALL REPAIR THREAD & BATTERY REPLACEMENT POLL
Creating this thread to document the following:
• the process from the time you call the dealer for service;
• the outcome for each Z11 PacHY recall and whether your battery gets replaced or not.
For those who had a battery replaced, can you also list the dealership who worked on your vehicle?
EDIT: Added the Recall Service Procedures:
RCRIT-22V077-7110.pdf (nhtsa.gov)
I called my dealer and they hadn't yet heard that parts were available. They are looking into it and will call me back.
• the process from the time you call the dealer for service;
• the outcome for each Z11 PacHY recall and whether your battery gets replaced or not.
For those who had a battery replaced, can you also list the dealership who worked on your vehicle?
EDIT: Added the Recall Service Procedures:
RCRIT-22V077-7110.pdf (nhtsa.gov)
I called my dealer and they hadn't yet heard that parts were available. They are looking into it and will call me back.
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I agree. I’d like more information on this “remedy”. Also, if this new software in the BPCM can prevent a fire by shutting things down before it happens, wouldn’t it be prudent to also apply it to other PacHys (2019-2022)?RCLRPT-22V077-6946.PDF (nhtsa.gov)
1. You're getting a software update that now disables the car if Chrysler thinks it's needed rather than sending a letter and hoping you will stop driving. (How many people ignored the current recall? Would anyone really park at the back of the supermarket to avoid being next to other cars as the recall says?)
2. You might get a replacement battery but the odds of it being new are little or none. The recall fix does not say "new."
Chrysler has been very clear that after 13 months, "The defect has not yet been identified and the root cause of these fires is still being investigated." This is not a fix but a quick patch to try to turn the car off if it thinks it is about to catch on fire.
Actually it could be.Another component starting on fire and eventually igniting the battery is not a bug in the thermal design.
This is interesting. Just days after the recall we have a report of a van refusing to charge which is supposedly what happens when the new BPCM software detects a problem. The questions are: Is this covered under warranty since it appears to be an issue with the HV battery? Does this single event warrant the replacement of the battery? If not, how many “shutdowns” must occur before it is determined that the battery is bad and needs to be replaced?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Just out of curiosity do you live in an area where the climate is changing? Is it possible that you were running the heat or that the car itself was conditioning the battery to keep it warm? I’m just trying to eliminate all possibilities other than the software update performed with the recall. Yours is a very interesting story and I’m waiting to hear how things work out for others who’ve had the recall. I am patiently awaiting results and I doubt that I’ll have the recall performed on my van until sometime next year (if at all).We had the Z11 recall repair done at our dealership 2 weeks ago. The software was installed and the battery passed the test, so no battery replacement needed. Over the past week we started noticing that a route that we drive regularly was exhausting a fully charged battery, despite the fact that before the repair it had only used up about half the battery. So today I drove that route and took careful measurements using the tripmeter (not the battery mileage estimator). I wrote down what was displayed every time I stopped at a red light.
The car started with 100% charge and tripmeter at 0.
After 5.0 miles, the battery was down to 74%.
After 8.0 miles, it was down to 58%.
After 11.0 miles, it was down to 30%.
After 12.5 miles it was down to 12%.
After 13.9 miles it was down to 0% and the engine turned on.
This normal route we take is 18 miles in total and, before the repair, we'd always have about 50% battery charge. Today I got only 13.9 miles on a fully charged battery! Something has changed badly. I'll be calling my dealership in the morning to find out what they have to say.
Thanks for sharing that. Yes, it doesn’t seem like anything you or the climate did should have caused your van to drain from a full charge so quickly. I’ll be eager to hear whether this is just a one-time thing or if you continue to experience reduced range.I live in Seattle. It was in the low 40s yesterday. I had the defroster on for about 3 minutes, otherwise no heat. But there's no way I should only be getting 14 miles on a full charge. We've had this Pacifica through 4 winters and have never run out of battery on this particular drive, which we do three times a week.
Good diagnostic point!From 0%, check how much power needed up to 100%.
I have not got the update yet, so far 100% charge is about 12.5kWh.
If it is much less then that, you might claim battery warranty.
Thanks for the update. I am finding this whole discussion very interesting.Version 4 of the Z11 Recall service instructions are out. They are making it clear what the technician needs to do and see before the vehicle can be returned to the customer. Here is the link:
Z11 Recall Service Instructions Rev 4
I haven’t had the Z11 recall done yet and I’m not even scheduled for it but I wonder if they didn’t correctly purge/refill the coolant system and it left an air pocket in it. Probably not that though since the error says “open/circuit”.so had my recall done, two weeks later had dtc's and was determined batteries needed replaced. Finally got it back a week ago. Today the service hybrid electric system light comes and and code is p2be0-00 hybrid ev coolant level sensor open/circuit. I'm getting fed up with paying for a vehicle that sits at the dealer. I regret doing the recall I have put more than 300 miles on since it was done. I'm also tired of getting a ram pickup as a loaner **** gas hog. Anyone else having failure after failure following Z11?
Perhaps you could interpret that as “bureaucracy”! 😁Please have customer allow up to 10 Business Days after Z11completion for implementation of their complimentary 2 Year Essential Care Package.
Wonder what they mean by "implemention"?
It wouldn’t seem like the coolant should be messed with unless they had to do something like replace the HV battery pack.Well mine now has the POE15 code after the recall fix. I looked at the coolant tanks and one of mine is below minimum also. I will be calling the dealership Monday. Did they even have to do anything with the coolant as part of this recall?
That’s interesting that the radiator fan seems to activate more often now than it did before. I assume that is triggered by high coolant temperature so the question might be why is the temperature higher now than it was before.I finally got my van back after the z11 recall. It took 2 weeks, and the mechanic wrote a lengthy set of notes. Apparently the test kept failing due to a parasitic drain on the 12v system. The drain was finally tracked down to an active DVD player. He also had trouble discharging the EV battery to redo tests by just driving around. That seems a bit worrisome because I haven't had that issue. Chrysler had the mechanic use the coolant heater to drain the battery. Now that I have the car, it has been discharged and charged a handful of times. The radiator fan activates at full power on occasion which it never did before. It is loud, but I suppose it is a good thing that there is more effort to keep a charging battery cool.
That would be a good thing to know. I’ve also heard that some technicians don’t know how to properly purge and refill the coolant and end up getting air bubbles in the system that don’t go away on their own. If that is the case I wondered if those air bubbles could cause the coolant to get warmer than normal.I never even heard the radiator at all before. I'm wondering if the firmware update lowered the temperature threshold or maybe fixed some broken code to trigger the fan.
Yep. It shouldn’t be that hard however I’ve read some posts here indicating that it wasn’t done properly at the dealer. Maybe this is caused by just doing it “the same way you’ve always done it”.Honestly the main problem with air bubbles is that some technicians and dealers are lazy. There are well documented procedures to purge the air from the system properly using vacuum pressure. Any dealer doing that work should have the necessary tools as they are not expensive. And then all you have to do is read and follow the procedure. Not difficult.
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