Did you replace both batteries since it says you have a gas Or did you only replace one? Also, did you check to see if you had any codes?

 

Thanks for the reply.
Did not replace the main battery. It's strong. All lights on, vehicle cranks hard. The aux battery didn't really even need replacing to begin with.
And also since it's starting occasionally after messing with other components, not sure how that could be the culprit.

We looked for codes on 3 different devices now. Nothing comes up. (Except a message about auto stop/start. But that's never worked since we had this van and is nothing new.)

 

Shot some gas directly into the throttle body and it turned over and started, ran for a few second and then died. Tried the exact same thing again and it just cranked without starting.
Is it not getting spark somehow? Why would it intermittently give spark when messing with the throttle body?

 

Do you recall seeing any warning messages when the engine first shut down or at any points thereafter? It's highly unlikely that no codes are stored. If your scantool can't retrieve the codes, it definitely won't be able to erase them since that requires an FCA AutoAuth subscription or bypassing the security gateway module.

Do NOT just start blindly replacing parts. When working on newer vehicles like the Pacifica It is imperative to check service data and verify if new parts require calibration/relearn after they are replaced. You're making the problem worse if you're not completing that when necessary. The throttle/accelerator pedal position sensor in particular requires performing an ETC relearn after it is replaced.

Without knowing anything else, I'll suggest that it's plausible the weird symptoms may be caused by a bad STAR connector above the glovebox. You'd definitely see DTCs if this was the case, but you need a good scan tool to see the type of codes that would be triggered.

 

A hood latch sensor message popped up briefly when it died on me the first time. But that was related to the auto stop/start.
There's no way that would prevent it from starting altogether, right?

 

I'm betting bad fuel pump. All the symptoms fit. "Sometimes" you can get them to work again by beating directly on the bottom of the fuel tank while someone else attempts to start the vehicle (great trick to avoid a tow)...

Edit: check associated fuses relays as well

 

@SitKneelBend
Good call on the fuses. I found the fuel injector fuse looked pretty bad so I swaped with another 25a fuse and it started a couple times.
Had to get somewhere so I couldn't keep testing.

If that's all it was, then I'm going to be so upset and relieved at the same time...

 

Well the fuse wasn't it.
It started a 3rd time so I drove it get fresh gas and more fuses and charge the battery.
I went into the store and left it running. It was running for 20-30 minutes. I left the store and 5 miles down the road it shut off on me again while I was slowing to turn. Coasted into a parking lot thankfully.
It also popped up the auto start/stop hood latch sensor message again right as it died.
Now I'm back to cranking and no start.

Time to get it towed I guess.

 

Also, I'm sitting in the van with it off. The lights on the inside are turning on and off every couple mintues. Something seems flakey with the battery.

 

While it was running it also threw these codes.
But some of them are historic from troubleshooting and unplugging stuff.
Maybe the throttle pedal is the issue.
Either way I'm calling the dealership first thing Monday I guess.

 

Ok, as stated something is wrong with your electrical. That fuse should not look like that. They fuse location needs to be inspected too. It's possible that dirt and grime is causing it to fail.

The battery issue and codes can generally be disregarded until you figure out what's up with the electrical. It's likely a cascade of codes caused by whatever the electrical malfunction is and that fuse location is a good place to start.

It might be worth pulling the whole TIPM (Fusebox) and cleaning inspecting it and the harnesses on the underside.

 

I saw another post about coolant. I noticed the coolant level was low and filled it up about a week before all the problems started. Related? It was driven for a while in between.

Too many issues all of a sudden. I guess I really made a poor choice here.

 

That's not what a fuse should look like when it "blows". The internal link opens up from heating, but the blades that plug it in shouldn't look burnt. It actually looks to me like part of the the fuse socket melted onto the fuse blade. I would suspect your vehicle suffered some short circuit(s) and/or collision damage effects underneath the fuse block, and it's not something your mechanic would have seen on a visual inspection. This could easily cause intermittent electrical problems like failure to start, etc. I would want to have a look under there, either by disconnecting the batteries first and dismounting the fuse block, or with a mirror or flexible scope.

 

Good advice. Thank you for the reply. I'll inspect the other fuses and see if I can get a look under it.
I suppose replacing the fuse box wouldn't be cheap/easy.

 

Well... it was the fuse. I'm annoyed and relieved.

I cleaned the fuse terminal with contact cleaner and bent the end of the new fuse and the van has started like 8 times since then with no issues.

It was losing contact with the terminal. I guess it makes sense that it started/ran for a while intermittently now because when my mechanic friend looked at it he tapped all the fuses and relays, and this morning before I left I swapped the fuses.
Then when driving and resistance building up at the fuse heating it up, and probably with motion, eventually I guess it just lost contact to the terminal, cutting fuel delivery.

This was the fuse for future readers:

Thank you to everyone who replied. Especially @SitKneelBend.