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Thanks, pic makes it clear, its the center nut on threaded end of axle that gets loose. This should be an easy fix, even if loctite and/or an additional lock nut is necessary. Odd problem on such a simple and commonly-used part. I will mention to dealer at next oil change. These forums can occasionally pay off with good information despite frequent lack of knowledge and hyperbole.
@lacompas 's final resolution was to get new nuts AND double them up (loctite was ineffective) .
 
I just had my 2022 Pacifica PHEV in the shop for routine oil change and asked them to look at this issue again. As a reminder my dealer has looked at this sound 3 times. First time they said it was normal. Second time they replaced the entire front axle, both left and right half shafts, and then yesterday when they said the sound is normal “play” in the axle. They said that because the car is so quiet you hear everything. I just don’t understand how the sound could be abnormal and then they replace the axles but then the sound is normal now. It’s clearly something that varies based on a number of factors. I have no idea if they checked the axle nuts. I mentioned it to them…maybe when I get tires rotated the tire shop will tighten the axel nut when the wheel is off. Totally crazy and disappointing.
 
I have a 2021 Pacifica Hybrid (Pinnacle) and heard a clicking noise coming on and off the accelerator when running in electric. Entire transmission was replaced. Would have been $13,756 had it not been under warranty. 46K miles.
That clicking came back for me after a few hundred miles. Just got a 34mm socket to see if tightening the axle nut makes it disappear. On the bright side, the "rocks in a blender mode" has gone away with the transmission replacement.
 
So, I just got the 34mm socket and went to tighten down the axle nut. The drivers side was nice and tight but the passenger side was (dangerously?) loose. It was very easy spinning for about a 1/2 -3/4 a turn. Took it on a test drive and the clicking was gone on both acceleration and deceleration. I'll be looking to take it to the dealer to correct it properly because I don't own a 1/2" drive torque wrench capable of torqueing to 180 ft lbs (which is what I think the factory torque is but I'm unsure). I'm also not sure if these nuts are reusable...
 
Just bought a used 2020 PACHY with this same problem identified during test drive. The store manager promised to fix it after we noticed this. Parts needed to be ordered and it took a week. Today I verified that it was fixed. Notes by the mechanic mention that:
  • this is related to a recall
  • these are replaced / retorqued:
  • bolts - wheel bearing to spindle
  • axle retaining nuts
  • lower ball joints & nuts
So happy to drive her home today and she even fits in our single door garage! Will report back if this issue comes back.
Happy to join the PACHY family :)
 
I just had my 2022 Pacifica PHEV in the shop for routine oil change and asked them to look at this issue again. As a reminder my dealer has looked at this sound 3 times. First time they said it was normal. Second time they replaced the entire front axle, both left and right half shafts, and then yesterday when they said the sound is normal “play” in the axle. They said that because the car is so quiet you hear everything. I just don’t understand how the sound could be abnormal and then they replace the axles but then the sound is normal now. It’s clearly something that varies based on a number of factors. I have no idea if they checked the axle nuts. I mentioned it to them…maybe when I get tires rotated the tire shop will tighten the axel nut when the wheel is off. Totally crazy and disappointing.
If you didn't hear it when it was "new" but you hear it now, that needs to be fixed. Disagree with the dealer and directly ask about lemon law, as it is not acceptable. They'll do the right thing, or they'll be taking a hit by Chrysler/Fiat/Stellanis/Whatever for not handling this properly.
 
Here is another thread about the clicking noise that seems to be more active and with more information. https://www.pacificaforums.com/threads/clicking-sound-when-i-release-and-push-on-gas-pedal.50927/

Installing double nuts, or Nord Lock washers has also successfully cured the clicking noise.

There is now a TSB from Chrysler stating the axle nuts should be torqued to 228 ft lbs instead of 120 ft lbs that was the original torque value.
 
Just wanted to say thank you to all.

Just had to replace our 2017 limited (125k) b/c a deer encounter totaled it. (Geico was solid to deal with) Picked up a 2021 limited AWD (51k)

Only issue with the newer car was this clicking noise. Searched, found this thread. Jacked it up, wheel off, snugged driver side, Moved 1/4 turn at 120lbs. 30mins. Click is gone.
Unreal. This community is awesome. Thanks!!


gonna check the other three. And maybe add the nord lock if it comes back.
 
Just wanted to say thank you to all.

Just had to replace our 2017 limited (125k) b/c a deer encounter totaled it. (Geico was solid to deal with) Picked up a 2021 limited AWD (51k)

Only issue with the newer car was this clicking noise. Searched, found this thread. Jacked it up, wheel off, snugged driver side, Moved 1/4 turn at 120lbs. 30mins. Click is gone.
Unreal. This community is awesome. Thanks!!


gonna check the other three. And maybe add the nord lock if it comes back.
I'd consider moving to the new torque values listed towards the end of this thread. Chrysler increased the value significantly. IN addition, the torque values for the rear, non-drive wheels will likely be significantly different.
 
I'd consider moving to the new torque values listed towards the end of this thread. Chrysler increased the value significantly. IN addition, the torque values for the rear, non-drive wheels will likely be significantly different.

I didn’t find a consensus on these values. Is there one and I missed it?

(I was just happy to find a possible fix) it turned easily at 80lbs and I just figured 120 was a bit more for now without going crazy.
 
From what I've experienced, and we've seen here, re-torquing to 120 can help/fix the issue but is often temporary. Mine slowly came back after a few months, weeks or days. This process can differ between PacHy and ICE due to the different torque delivery.

Although Chrysler bumped it to 228, we haven't had a user confirm it doesn't come back as it's still too soon to know. Wouldn't be the first time a fix attempt fails from Chrysler.
 
From what I've experienced, and we've seen here, re-torquing to 120 can help/fix the issue but is often temporary. Mine slowly came back after a few months, weeks or days. This process can differ between PacHy and ICE due to the different torque delivery.

Although Chrysler bumped it to 228, we haven't had a user confirm it doesn't come back as it's still too soon to know. Wouldn't be the first time a fix attempt fails from Chrysler.
I plan to have mine done with the next open recall I have. Just dragging my feet because I have to put the SGM back in...
 
Retorquing to 120 without the Nord Lock washers is pretty much guaranteed to fail and loosen again.
I haven't read of any cases yet where using the Nord Locks at 120 failed to be a permanent fix, including other threads about this problem.
Torquing to 228 might be a permanent fix without the Nord Locks, but like lacompas said, it's still too early to tell.
 
I’ve been at 125 with Nordlock and a new hub nut for about 1000 miles. And loving it. This is from having to torque to 225 every other day while I waited for the washer and nut to come in. Absolutely infuriating. Also just had a repair done on the rear differential that was covered under the 60k warranty. symptom was a high pitched whine noise at 30-45mph. Car drives like new.
 
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